Lyman Spartan Refurb

[ndnchf]

I just bought this old Lyman Spartan press for light duty work. I'm going to strip it down for refurb and repaint. Does anyone have suggestions, tips or ideas I should consider when I do this? I've read where someone cut a groove for a hairpin spring to hold the shell holder like modern presses, rather than the set screw. I may do that. I may get a new primer arm from Lyman, maybe a feeder tube. What else should I do while its apart?

[mdi]

When I rebuilt a press long ago, I was going to have the ram chrome plated (never got around to it). My figgerin' was that plating would add a few thousandths to the diameter (to possibly take up some slop in the ram/frame fit) and provide a smooth hard surface to eliminate future wear...

[gwpercle]

CH4D has replacement universal rams that have the "snap in shell holder feature and priming arms.
Check out their site, they helped me get two presses back in business. An Eagle Cobra 300 and a Lyman All American Turret from the late 1950's.
Lyman may not carry all the parts you want/need but CH4D still has the universal replacement parts and can tell you if they are correct.
My very first press was a Spartan, bought it in 1968 and it had a snap in shell holder, so yours may date back to the 1950's....Nice Score.
Gary

[Ole Joe Clarke]

When I rebuilt a press long ago, I was going to have the ram chrome plated (never got around to it). My figgerin' was that plating would add a few thousandths to the diameter (to possibly take up some slop in the ram/frame fit) and provide a smooth hard surface to eliminate future wear...

When a shaft is chrome plated for repair, the repair shop will grind or turn down the surface to be repaired before plating. It also removes bad areas in the surface. This allows them to plate to a thickness that they can grind back down to the finished dimensions.

[ndnchf]

I've got a lathe, so I should be able to cut the existing ram for the hairpin spring. But it's good to know there may be a source of parts if needed. Thanks.

[Lagamor]

What color are you going to go with? I've seen some in bright orange that I really like.

[tinsnips]

Find someone that can bead blast the whole thing it will surprise you how clean it will come out. Just take it apart then bead blast the parts they will look like new . Paint it . Good luck!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

When you paint, use primer. It'll turn out better long term.

[buggybuilder]

I just refurbished my early 1970's Spartan. I bead blasted it, primed it, and then painted it with Rustoleum "Hammered" grey. It looks great. If you use this type of paint, do NOT try and do a really good job by using a "clear" finish over the top!!! It will bubble and ruin the entire paint job. I also put a large nylon washer on each side of the ram handle to take up the slop.
Good luck and have fun.

[ndnchf]

Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have a bead blast cabinet and will be using it. I haven't decided on color yet, but the hammered gray sounds kind of nice. I'd kind of like to replace the handle bar grip with a ball. Has anyone done this? It would be nice to order one ready to bolt on, but I can modify something if needed.

[dragon813gt]

When you paint, use primer. It'll turn out better long term.

You definitely want to primer it if you want the paint to last long term. Otherwise it comes off fairly easily. I've lightly returned a few RCBS pieces. I chemically stripped the paint, which is a mess. Then took a wire wheel to it to clean it up. A blasting cabinet would be great but I don't have one :(

After that it's a coat of primer and two coats of paint. If you use Rustoleum go w/ a light coat. If not you will have drips and runs. You can't smooth out the paint so avoid them at all costs. I have a Spartan that gets no love sitting in my attic. Maybe one day I will get around to using it :)

[Mk42gunner]

Call me weird, but I kind of like the set screw retaining feature on my Pacific Super C. It prevents the shell holder from turning so I can run the press almost without looking at the cases, i.e. the opening is always in the same place.

When bead blasting, I would block any machined or threaded holes, no need for them to get any larger or rougher than they are now.

You probably know this already, but another warning doesn't hurt. This time of year make sure the parts and paint are warm enough before spraying either the primer or paint. I would spray two light coats of primer, then as many light coats of paint as it takes to get a good finish.

Also make sure the primer and paint are compatible.

Not sure about the Lyman Spartan, but a lot of the C frame presses from that era used a ½-20 thread to attach the operating handle.

Robert

[flyingmonkey35]

I'd sand blast it. Then powder coat it.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I would just use some steel wool and some Rem oil call it a day and use it

[ndnchf]

Yes, I will block off the threads and any other machined surfaces. I've restored a number of machine tools. The hammered gray is a nice finish. I'm going to check the local craft/hobby shops for a wood ball for the handle. I think that would be a nice touch.

[seagiant]

Hi,
Actually to do it right, all the unpainted metal would be slow rust blued!

[Bazoo]

I would just use some steel wool and some Rem oil call it a day and use it
I like your style sir.

[flashhole]

seagiant beat me to it. Blue the metal handle and linkage and put a ball handle on it. Please post pics of your progress.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have a bead blast cabinet and will be using it. I haven't decided on color yet, but the hammered gray sounds kind of nice. I'd kind of like to replace the handle bar grip with a ball. Has anyone done this? It would be nice to order one ready to bolt on, but I can modify something if needed.

If you have a tool/equipment rental place in your area that provides services to a manufacturing plant, it's likely they have the black plastic balls in stock that'll match the grey hammered paint you're planning on using. Ace Hardware also sells ball hands in the sizes mentioned. All you'd need to do is thread your handle on the lathe, black oxide all the unpainted parts and you'd be good to go.

Probably be just as easy to sandpaper/emery cloth the handle clean while you have it on the lathe. Make sure and neutralize all the rust on the blued parts before you do any polishing with sandpaper or otherwise. BTW, if you bead blast the handle, it'll feel really rough to your hand/fingers when you're operating it, not a desireable thing.

One last thought: Pride of ownership of something you've restored lasts far longer than any minor aggravations you have while restoring it properly to look like something instead of doing a quickie job. If in doubt, note Seagiant showing off that purty thing.:)

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Hi,
Actually to do it right, all the unpainted metal would be slow rust blued!

Purty, for sure.

[ndnchf]

I made some good progress today. I got the press stripped down, bead blasted and primed. Here's a photo after it came out of the blast cabinet. My wife found a nice hard wood ball at a craft store. The ball is 1.900" diameter. So I bored it for the 5/8" shaft, and then turned a groove on the end of the shaft. I plan to epoxy the ball onto the shaft and the groove will give the epoxy a mechanical lock the shaft. All the blued pieces cleaned up surprisingly well with 0000 steel wool and oil. I'll just touch up a couple spots and those parts will be good to go.

I'll give the primer a couple days to dry thoroughly, then spray the hammered gray/black.

[flashhole]

Outstanding - you will have to paint or lacquer the wooden ball too. If you leave it raw wood it will get very dirty.

[ndnchf]

Yes, I agree. I've sanded the ball and am applying several coats of Tru-Oil. It's looking nice.

[ndnchf]

I've made more progress. The press was primed over the weekend. Tonight I gave it a coat of hammered gray/black. It looks really nice, but after the rain stops I'll give it another coat. The wood ball handle has been finished with Tru-oil and attached to the handle. The ram and linkage have been all cleaned up and are ready to assemble. It's coming along nicely.

[flashhole]

A scrap book picture would have all the cleaned up parts laid out prior to assembly then an second pic after assembly.

[ndnchf]

I finished the Spartan refurb today. I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. I did not cut a groove for a shell holder spring yet. I figured I'd try it out for a while with the original set screw. If I don't like it, it's easy enough to drop the ram and cut a groove later. The ball handle feels very comfortable and seems to work well. It's ready to go back to work for another 60 years.

[flashhole]

Great job. Enjoy it and thanks for sharing.

[flyingmonkey35]

Very nice job

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

You done good, looks fantastic!

[seagiant]

Hi,
VERY nice!

I prefer the set screw over the spring! Go figure!

[troyboy]

Looks good. Rust blue is superior on a firearm but cold blue is less involved and works well for tooling.

[Bullwolf]

Your Lyman Spartan turned out quite nice in the end.

Great refurbish job, and I really enjoyed following the thread.

Now go and enjoy the heck out of that old Spartan press.




- Bullwolf

[ndnchf]

Thanks fellas. I'll be loading some 32-20 on it shortly!

[Green Frog]

Beautiful work on that Spartan ndnchf, congratulations. While we are on the subject of Lyman restoration work, has anyone been able to find a good replacement for that strange red color that Lyman used on a few of their presses about that same time? I've seen it mainly on the All American and Comet models and it's really hard to match... it seems to have a touch of pink or something in it to make it lighter/brighter than most truly red paints. :?

Froggie

[Alexn20]

Looks Awesome! Thanks for sharing the pics!

[troyboy]

Green Frog, not to hijack the thread. In my opinion the pinkish red is just the age,wear and tear etc. When I restored my All American before selling, the paint used was Rust-Oleum Sunrise Red 7762. The primer used was grey. Turned out really nice

[Green Frog]

I hope ndnchf won't think of this as a hijack, because I think he has a great thread going here. I was just hoping to include a little more about the finishing process (i.e. paint colors) in the same place. If this looked like I was going too far astray with things, please accept my apology! :oops:

Froggie

[ndnchf]

Froggie - no probablem, I just didn't want to bore people with some details. But since you asked...

Before bead blasting I masked off the 7/8-14 threads, the bore for the ram and the two pivot pin holes. I ran a junk screw into the unused primer feeder mounting hole at the top. Then I blasted it clean as shown before. Then I shot it with two coats of Rustoleum dark gray automotive "stops rust" primer (that is what the Rustoleum hammered black paint fine print called for). I waited about 3 days, then sprayed the first coat of Rustoleum hammered black, waited 2 more days and shot a second coat. It sat for two more days, then I removed the masking tape, blew out any residual grit, greased and assembled it.

As for the blued parts, I just went over them with 0000 steel wool and oil. That removed 95% of the light rust. That's really all there was to it.

I have noticed that the handle wants to fall down on its own. I suppose the ball adds a little weight causing this. There is a little gap at the handle pivot pin area. I'm going to cut a couple thin rubber washers to fit in the gap to provide enough friction to keep the handle up when not in use. That should be an easy fix. I'd like to rig up some kind of primer catcher too, but for now a trash can below the press catches most of them.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.

[ndnchf]

This afternoon I decided to tackle the two annoying things with the press. The lack of a primer catcher and the handle wanting to fall down on its own.

For the primer catcher I tried a couple things, but settled for this rather inelegant but effective solution. Its just a solo cup cut down and with a offset hole for the Ram. I decapped twenty five .32 Ballard extra long cases and every primer dropped into the cup. The downside is that the primer arm needs to be removed first. But that just requires removing a spring clip and pushing out the pivot pin. It ain't pretty, but it works!

Next was the handle. I tried putting some friction material between the linkage and frame, but that didn't work very well. Then I thought about making a counterweight. I dug out a fairly thin muffin pan ingot. I used the extra handle mounting hole on the bottom of the linkage to attach it. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the ingot, offset as close as possible to the edge. Then bolted it on with the weight towards the rear. Wa-La! The handle now stays up. I will try this for a week or so and if I'm satisfied with it, i'll paint the weight and bolt to match the press.

[Green Frog]

... but it's not a RED SOLO CUP! What would Toby Keith say? :bigsmyl2:

This continues to be a great thread and your work is excellent, ndnchf. Thanks for starting it and sharing such good information that will be useful to many of us, whether we have a Spartan or not. It looks like some good general ideas are coming in as well.

Happy New Year and Good Casting!
Green Frog :mrgreen:

[georgerkahn]

I REALLY like the bolted on lead weight! I have a Lyman Spartan 100% dedicated to decapping; I have a RCBS Universal deprimer die in it, and -- as written -- use it exclusively to pop out the spent primers -- my first operation upon return from the range, or spent brass acquisition. I made a primer catcher from a Kodak film can -- just drilled a hole in bottom to pass the shell-holder and ram through -- but it's handle dropping could, at times, be annoying. Next trip to reloading room -- I surely will give your weight trick as try! THANKS!
georgerkahn

[ndnchf]

georgerkahn - glad you found this helpful. The weight shown is just barely enough to keep the handle up. A little larger would be more positive. You may have to experiment a little. I have to say, I really like this little press!

[Silverboolit]

Beautiful job!! I had one of those many years ago, and if I remember right, the RCBS primer tube/assembly should fit right on the press. Don't remember the part number, but I am sure that it will be obvious which one will work.

[ndnchf]

Thanks silverboolit, i'll look into the primer rod. I gave the press a good work out today and am really liking it. The angled opening takes getting use to, but it is easier to see what's going on. I can see why so many people still like these old presses!

[brstevns]

Was wondering are these little presses strong enough for swageing. Say 22cal thru 25 cal?
Very nice job by the way.

[ndnchf]

Was wondering are these little presses strong enough for swageing. Say 22cal thru 25 cal?
Very nice job by the way.

It's pretty stout and all heavy cast iron. But it does not have the compound linkage of newer presses. I haven't tried any case forming with it, just resizing that was easy enough. Maybe someone else can answer your question.

The real beauty is the ease of use and low cost. I paid $30 for the press and spent under $10 for the paint. That and a little elbow grease was all it took to bring this little gem back to a life of useful service.

[brstevns]

That was my very first press. I believe I ordered it from Gander Mountain back in 1966. Still have it and still use it.Just never tried to swage on it, was just wondering what or if others have? Dog gone that is 50 years ago! I am getting old.

[ndnchf]

I imagine you guys are getting tired of this thread. But I want to show one more thing. There have been several discussions about adding lighting to a press, so I've been thinking about this. I went to my local Harbor Freight store today with my new years day 25% coupon too get a few things. They were also giving away little LED flashlights as freebies. So I got thinking about how to use it on the press. As I strolled the aisles I found a 3 Pak of magnetic spring clips. The largest one held the little light perfectly. At home I tried the magnetic clip, but it wasn't secure enough. But thought about the unused primer rod screw. The magnet was riveted to the lip handle, so I took a dremel and ground it until it popped off. Then drilled the hole 1/4" for the screw. With a flat washer under the screw head and a rubber faucet washer between the clip and the casting for friction, I put it together. With the screw snug, it will pivot for adjustment. It's a simple mod, cost little and it works great.

[Mike Kerr]

Great restoration job. Looks great. Very professional. Thanks, also for the detail of the restoration steps. Those detail steps give the rest of us a guide to use for projects which we might not otherwise try to do.

[ndnchf]

After loading 50 rounds of 32-20 this morning I realized that the handle counterweight was not satisfactory. It was located too close to the pivot point. While it provided some improvement, the handle would still fall down if bumped. Not wanting to alter the press, I reworked the counterweight system by moving the weight to the rear about 3.5" using a steel bar. This works MUCH better, providing positive handle stability, yet not too heavy. The ram will stay in the full up position, but when the ram is down, the handle stays solidly up. The photos explain it pretty well. One note, the notches in the bar around the large hole provide clearance for the base of the casting as it pivots. It took a little trial and error to get the right clearance. I did it with a milling machine, but it could easily be done with a grinder too.

I've read several Spartan and Spar-T threads where this has been an annoying problem. This set up works great and is adjustable by varying the ingot size. It positively solves the handle drop problem.

[RoGrrr]

ndnchf

I'm SO used to seeing Lymans as GRAY so when I saw your refurb in BLACK, I was a bit surprised.
Being left-brained, I don't think out of the box so I hadn't even thought about another color (even tho someone else mentioned ORANGE).

As my good friend, Rocky Balboa said, "I like black bcuz black's my favorite color.

Needless to say, I LIKE IT !

[ndnchf]

RoGrrr - thanks. It's the hammered black that actually looks like a dark gray with the texturing. Since I was making a couple other updates, I figured that a slightly different paint was ok. I'm really pleased with the results and the added light and counterweight really make it a pleasure to use.

[magic mike]

I bought my Spartan back in 1967 and it is still in use today. I have it loaded up with decapping/sizing dies. Still have the original primer catcher and priming system. I did break the handle off a while back but it was easily replaced.

I solved the handle dropping issue by simply sticking a small (3/8" dia x 3/8" L) rare earth magnet on the handle so that it contacts the frame when the handle is in the up position. End of problem.

[ndnchf]

Hey Mike - great idea! It just shows there is more than one way to skin a cat. That handle is solid 1/2" hardened steel. You must have been doing something really tough to snap it off!

[Pressman]

the Spartan handle is weak. The 1/2" thread shank usually breaks at the shoulder. I good friend of mine has a part time job making new handles when Lyman refers people to him when looking for a replacement.

The same problem was common on the RCBS Jr2 till they enlarged the threads to 9/16" and renamed it the Jr3.

Ken

[ndnchf]

the Spartan handle is weak. The 1/2" thread shank usually breaks at the shoulder. I good friend of mine has a part time job making new handles when Lyman refers people to him when looking for a replacement.

The same problem was common on the RCBS Jr2 till they enlarged the threads to 9/16" and renamed it the Jr3.

Ken

I'll keep that in mind if mine breaks!

[Ric-san]

You're Spartan press came out lookin' pretty good...

[OS OK]

That little Spartan is no 'girley' press…she will take it, so...give her a good workout.
Great results…aren't you satisfied with your efforts? I would be!

[ndnchf]

Yeah, I'm pretty pleased. I'll use it for all but the heaviest work. Adding the light and counterweight really improved it for me. It's a pleasure to use now.

[barney67]

Great job on the refurb, really like the color. Thanks for the inspiration, my old Spartan needs some love now.

[ndnchf]

Great job on the refurb, really like the color. Thanks for the inspiration, my old Spartan needs some love now.
Glad this gave you a little inspiration. Please share photos of yours as you proceed with the refurb too. Everyone likes photos!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Good Job!

We are encouraging as many as possible to give older tools a clean up and repaint and gain some more satisfaction out of this Hobby.

None of this stuff is worn out so a cosmetic redo revitalizes your love for the tool and makes it good to go for another 50 years,,, or so.

Then the new owners can do it again!

Randy

[flashhole]

I have tools in my reloading room that are older than I am old. I turn 63 this year. They are as good today as they were the day they were made.

[380AUTO]

I also have a Lyman Spartan and use it to load from small pistol to magnum Rifle rounds it's plenty strong and it being the only pres I own I use it exclusively. To fix the ram falling issue I installed a wavy washer and it now stays in place.

[ndnchf]

It's been 4 years since I refurbed my Spartan. So I thought I'd give a report on how it has been after a lot of use. In a word- Great!

I'm very pleased with how it works, honestly I wouldn't change a thing. The counterweight works perfectly and the light really helps my aging eyes. It really is a great little press, and much more user friendly now.

[Iowa Fox]

The Lyman Spartan has to be one of the all time classic best presses to ever hit the market. I purchased mine in the winter of 69-70 from a mail order Gander Mountain sale flyer with one set of dies. Its done a lot of work, still looks like new and I still have the box it came in. Lyman should have continued its production and just painted it different colors along the way.

[1hole]

My first press was a Spar-T. I'd never even seen a single shell being reloaded but knew I wanted to do it. and chose the Spar-T because it just had to be "faster" than the Spartan, right? Wrong.

I soon wanted to get away from the springy turret so I locked the center bolt down hard and converted it to a funny looking single stage with die storage.

I still have the Lyman auto-primer tube feed and it works great, it's still better than any other auto feed I've yet seen. I used it that way from '65 to '95 when I finally swallowed the green Kool-Aid and got an RC-II. Both presses are still in great condition. But, about '98, I got an over powering hankering to modify the old Lyman from simple toggle action to compound so it wouldn't take Popeye to do the hard stuff.

Played around with several sketches until I had something I liked the looks of. Disassembled everything and cleaned it like a medical tool. Got out the high speed grinder and cut off a couple inches from the bottom of the casting. Bought a 3 ft bar of steel, 1/4" by 1 1/2 " from Lowe's and laid out twin swinging toggle bars with a cross link like Lee uses. Welded the old toggle link into the bottom of the ran, pointing straight down, to effectively lengthen the ram. Then I bored a 1/2" hole through the body, just behind the ram and just below the C's bottom flat. Welded the toggle links and bored pivot holes for a long grade 8 bolt to anchor the ram in the proper position and then bored the link lower ends to receive another G. 8 bolt to serve as a toggle pivot pin. Think I put about $7 in bolts and the bar stock; probably sounds harder to do than it was. Thing is, my klunged compound toggle system really works!

Painted it with Walmart sprays. Gray primer for the body and a whatever red for the links and turret; looks pretty good.

There's a good quality golf ball knob on the lever (I always thought there must be some good way to use those things!). And I also lathe cut a simple ram groove for a standard shell holder spring, works great. I enjoy using my Spar-T far more now than I used to. It's a LOT easier to FL size surplus .30-06 with it now and also easier to reform old military match -06 cases into .243 and .22-250 ... but most of that kind of work goes into the green beast these days. Ah, the good ol' days would be now if only my beat-up body worked as good as my gear!

Anyway, my final thought is to say that old iron is still a lot more effective and useful that most of today's loaders realise.

[Bazoo]

An interesting discussion. Thanks.

I've been tinkering on my spartan for a while now. I made a wooden wedge to make the ram vertical.

To help with the handle falling I tried a few things. First I released some material from the toggle block where the lever goes so the ram would go a little lower in the press. This hides the opening for the shell holder but helped some. I just lower the handle a bit to change shell holders. Then I drilled a 5/16 hole as deep as it would go in the end of the handle. This helped some. I also cut about an inch from the handle length.

I'm thinking about cutting the priming parts ears off as I use a ram prime. Then I could make a primer catch that won't be in the way I think. Still pondering it.

[Rich/WIS]

Bought mine in 1971 and used it for 30+ years. Replaced it with a T-mag for pistol and a RCBS RC for rifle. Sits in its original factory box on the shelf in my reloading room. If I were to ever put it back into service would make the ball handle mod. The single linkage was a big negative for me when FL sizing rifle brass and the primary reason I moved away from it. For pistol rounds it was great, lots of hand room.

[Iowa Fox]

Bought mine in 1971 and used it for 30+ years. Replaced it with a T-mag for pistol and a RCBS RC for rifle. Sits in its original factory box on the shelf in my reloading room. If I were to ever put it back into service would make the ball handle mod. The single linkage was a big negative for me when FL sizing rifle brass and the primary reason I moved away from it. For pistol rounds it was great, lots of hand room.

Wouldn't a ball handle on your old original press in the box be sacraidge. Kind of like taking your childhood sweetheart that you have been married to for over 50 years in for a boob job.

[flagman1776]

I started with one and it's still mounted to it's plywood base board. (After bolting it down to my first couple of benches, I got wise and made a base board of thick plywood, recessed carriage bolts from underneath. I just use a couple of big C clamps when I need it.) They are good presses and still do the job.

[Green Frog]

Dadgummit, you guys did it to me again! I had planned on backing off from buying more presses (and other reloading equipment) and even thinning the herd a little. Now you guys have me thinking of buying my brother's surplus-to-him Spartan that he picked up at a local thrift shop for about nothing. Of course this will mean I can sell off my Lyman Comet and Herters #3 presses in the same configuration. I'll still hold on to the Herters Super U as my heavy duty single stage press, and of course my Lyman All American as my "token turret." Are you sure you guys aren't pulling my chain about how wonderful this Spartan press is? The Model 3 looks pretty good by comparison, and I really can't justify bench space for both. Inquiring minds...

Froggie

[ndnchf]

After the refurb and mods I did, I really like my Spartan. The only other thing I'd like to do is cut the ram for a spring clip to hold the shell holder. While the set screw works fine, it's just a little slower to change.

[ndnchf]

As a matter of fact, I used it last night to load some .32 long colt with heel bullets. The added light really helps my aging eyes.

[Shawlerbrook]

I bought one at an antique show last summer for $15. Looks like new and even came with the original red plastic spent primer catcher. Didn’t need it, as I have 2 RCBS( a Rockchucker and RS2) , but couldn’t pass it up. You now got me excited to try it.

[ndnchf]

I bought one at an antique show last summer for $15. Looks like new and even came with the original red plastic spent primer catcher. Didn’t need it, as I have 2 RCBS( a Rockchucker and RS2) , but couldn’t pass it up. You now got me excited to try it.

Can you post a photo of the original primer catcher? I've not seen one. Mine was missing so I made one from a plastic solo cup - :wink:

[Shawlerbrook]

256744256745

[Bazoo]

I've heard of at least one instance when someone made a solid connector bar to go between the priming ears that converted the spartan into an O press. If I recall, they were swaging with it. Anyone else ever hear of this?

[ndnchf]

256744256745
Thanks!

[Binky]

I still have my original primer catcher and one that a co-worker made for me on his 3D printer. I have seen originals sell for 50 bucks on the auction sites. Way more than the 20 or so dollars I paid for my Spartan kit in the mid 60s. I also have the primer arm and the repriming kit. The brass primer tubes are way better than the tubes that came with my RCBS bench primer and work in the bench primer. My Spartan gets used for much of my depriming and the occasional small batch pistol resizing project. I was still in High School when I got mine and if I could find away, I would take it with me when I am done here.