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dilly
12-12-2015, 09:42 PM
I got some of the expander plugs from NOE that are made to work with the Lee Universal Expander die. They look like they'll be good, but they are unmarked.

As soon as I looked at them I knew immediately that I would someday find them in a little drawer or bin all mixed together wondering which one is which. Does anyone have any good ideas about how to permanently mark them before I throw them into circulation?

Nowherefound
12-12-2015, 09:50 PM
That's funny, I've had the same thought ruffing around in my head. Right now they are in their little baggies but I know that at some point they are going to wear out and be loose. I have been playing around with the idea of picking up some sort of a punch set (maybe harbor freight?) and try to mark them in the backside/top is the same fashion that RCBS marks its trimmer pilots.

Bent Ramrod
12-12-2015, 10:01 PM
My solution was to buy two sets of "Quality Import" metal stamp sets from Enco or Rutland. I bought the 1/8" size, letters and numerals. They've more than paid for themselves in easy identification of homemade compression and expanding plugs, sizing dies and tools.

The Harbor Freight ones I saw were maybe 1/4"; way too big.

dragon813gt
12-12-2015, 10:13 PM
I know you want to mark the plugs themselves. But this is one case where organization is your friend. I have one of the plastic boxes that HF sells. Each expander is in it's own marked compartment. The Universal Die is in the box w/ them. And I printed out and taped a spreadsheet w/ the plug sizes to the box. Worse case scenario I forget to remove the expander from the die. There will be an open compartment in the box so I know which one it is. Like I said, organization is your friend. Especially w/ small parts.

JonB_in_Glencoe
12-12-2015, 10:18 PM
scratch awl and sharpie

Le Loup Solitaire
12-12-2015, 10:19 PM
In one of his early books in his series of handloading Dean Grennell spent the better part of a chapter explaining how to make expanders using various shapes that were interchangeable on the main stem. It involves the use of a lathe or at least access to one. I once made a couple using solid bolts chucked in my wood lathe just using a fie and some fine sandpaper with help from a micrometer. The bolts had threads that matched those of a Lyman die body so I was able to succeed with the project. LLS

Frank46
12-13-2015, 12:43 AM
I have some I made from grade 8 threaded rod. Turned short sections and they fit in a Lyman M die. To make sure they were straight I machined a nut that fit the rod on both sides and center drilled so as to use a live center. Frank

GabbyM
12-13-2015, 12:59 AM
Key tag with wire wrap. Trick would be to not lose it while the die was installed.
Or just dump them in a can then use a micrometer to find the one you want. Eyeball should get you to the general caliber.

dilly
12-13-2015, 01:12 AM
I wonder if there's a way to stencil with powder coat? That ought to be pretty durable.

GabbyM
12-13-2015, 01:44 AM
I wonder if there's a way to stencil with powder coat? That ought to be pretty durable.

If you wanted to spend an afternoon at it. Acid etching would be the way to proceed. But seriously just toss them in a can then mic them to sort.

Boolit_Head
12-13-2015, 01:51 AM
Some of the acid etching meant for glass ought to do a nice job. I believe it is called Armor Etch. Stop by a sign place and get them to cut some stencils in some sandblast resist or paint mask. Brush on the acid a time or two and you ought to have some numbers on them.

44man
12-13-2015, 10:04 AM
Moto tool with a diamond cutter. Does a great job as long as you don't shake like I do! I bought a whole kit of cutters dirt cheap, down to a pointed one.

dragon813gt
12-13-2015, 10:34 AM
But seriously just toss them in a can then mic them to sort.

Wow, what a waste of time if you go this route.

Even after you mark them I suggest you spend $2 to buy this box from Harbor Freight. They fit perfectly.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg.html)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg.html)

Blammer
12-13-2015, 03:13 PM
I'm not that orgainzed....

I just get an electric etcher pencil and go at it. :)

44man
12-14-2015, 09:08 AM
Me too, all stuff is tossed in a box in a drawer. :veryconfu

dudel
12-14-2015, 09:15 AM
I got some of the expander plugs from NOE that are made to work with the Lee Universal Expander die. They look like they'll be good, but they are unmarked.

As soon as I looked at them I knew immediately that I would someday find them in a little drawer or bin all mixed together wondering which one is which. Does anyone have any good ideas about how to permanently mark them before I throw them into circulation?

Empty pill bottles. A vapor chip to keep down on the rust.

44man
12-14-2015, 10:32 AM
I bought my lathe from a fella that had moisture problems so he put camphor with tools. I do not have rust problems with humidity at 38% in my basement. The garage is different so I wax everything, table saw, etc.

alamogunr
12-14-2015, 01:29 PM
Empty pill bottles. A vapor chip to keep down on the rust.

+1 I keep all my size dies in these. I throw away more pill bottles than I can ever use. I'm just starting to use them for expanders and other stuff.

The pharmacy also has desiccant that they throw away. They saved a bunch for me.

sparky45
12-14-2015, 01:40 PM
Wow, what a waste of time if you go this route.

Even after you mark them I suggest you spend $2 to buy this box from Harbor Freight. They fit perfectly.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg.html)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg.html)
WAY to OCD for me. BTW, I wouldn't get in my morning cursing tirade if I did that.

williamwaco
12-14-2015, 01:47 PM
http://www.planomolding.com/

They have hundreds of stlyes of these boxes

Gander mountain has quite a few of them.

They come in many different divisions.

Check them out. You will like them.

Hamish
12-14-2015, 01:49 PM
You mean like this?

155584

Victor N TN
12-14-2015, 01:58 PM
My loving spousal person (Married 46 years in April) went to the craft isle at WallyWorld and got me a little bag of little bags. 2" X 3" are like $1 for 100 (?) Write on them with a SHARPIE or put a small piece of paper inside the bag with what it is.

John Boy
12-14-2015, 02:02 PM
You mean like this?

155584 Yes but instead of caliber - bullet diameter

bedbugbilly
12-14-2015, 02:27 PM
I haven't actually handled any of these yet . . I'm sure several or more are in my "future" and I've heard a lot of good things about them.

My wife has been trying to "orgnize" me for well over 40 years . . some has rubbed off but I do try to get better.

Not having handled the expander plugs, I'm not sure how much "room" there is to mark them. One thing I'c considering though is to "color code" my stuff. Use a different paint color to designate calibers. I load on a Lee 4 hole turret and have a number of them set up for my different die set. I load a lot of 38 special as well as 38 Colt Short, Long and 357. Both Smokeless and BP. I have a separate set of dies for each set up on plates - but the plates are not in a rack - yet. When I go go grab my 9mm plate . . I have to look and look "close" as it gets confusing with the 38 Colt Short and Long plates/dies. And then I have a separate set of dies for 38 spl. and 357 just to use for BP as they can get pretty messy with the BP lube. So I'm thinking of painting the tops of the turret plates a different color and then making a chart with the color on it to identify. Perhaps you could do the same with the expanders?

I also use the divided plastic boxes to keep my shell holders in - for the press and the Lee Ergo Hand Primer. As long as I get them in the right cubby hole of the plastic box, I'm fine. Today though, I was hunting for my 9mm Ergo Primer shell holder and was having a dickens of a time finding it I have two but only saw one in the cubby hole for it it helps if you put them back in the right place. Sure 'buff . . it was in with my 38 Spl. holders! Dun! LOL

dragon813gt
12-14-2015, 03:21 PM
http://www.planomolding.com/

They have hundreds of stlyes of these boxes

Gander mountain has quite a few of them.

They come in many different divisions.

Check them out. You will like them.

Their guide series boxes are really nice. I store things that I really don't want to rust in them. I just wish the smaller box had dividers. In general I wish they were a little bit more flexible. The $8 Wal-Mart charges for this one is worth it if you don't want to worry about rust.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/539A94D0-B813-4988-8197-9BE0EA4DD542.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/539A94D0-B813-4988-8197-9BE0EA4DD542.jpg.html)

Mytmousemalibu
12-14-2015, 06:52 PM
Empty pill bottles. A vapor chip to keep down on the rust.

Just curious, what kind/brand are you using? All my die sets, sizers, everything basically has a strip of VCI treated paper stuck in with it. I bought a couple packs of like 4in square sheets of corrosion inhibitor treated paper. So far so good, no rust on anything.

dudel
12-15-2015, 10:03 AM
Just curious, what kind/brand are you using? All my die sets, sizers, everything basically has a strip of VCI treated paper stuck in with it. I bought a couple packs of like 4in square sheets of corrosion inhibitor treated paper. So far so good, no rust on anything.

Couldn't say, as there are no markings on the VCI chips. I see amazon carries a fairly good assortment.

farmerjim
12-15-2015, 11:05 AM
The ones I bought from NOE 2 weeks ago came marked. Looked like an electric etcher marking.

Mytmousemalibu
12-16-2015, 04:18 PM
Couldn't say, as there are no markings on the VCI chips. I see amazon carries a fairly good assortment.
When i use up my current supply, I'll have to pick some of those up.

Calamity Jake
12-16-2015, 05:42 PM
Hand held electric engraver, nuf said.

tygar
12-16-2015, 06:51 PM
Wow, what a waste of time if you go this route.

Even after you mark them I suggest you spend $2 to buy this box from Harbor Freight. They fit perfectly.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/E2FFA346-2981-4E78-BAE6-5DFBC6968297.jpg.html)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/0027E0EE-1814-48FB-84CD-B397B198533D.jpg.html)

I like that. I've been using a magic marker. But I think the electric etcher is a good idea. Use the box above & mark with pencil.

Elkins45
12-16-2015, 10:59 PM
Dremel electric engraver is $20 at Lowe's. It's a good investment. I bought mine to mark a Form 1 silencer but it has found other uses in the meantime.

fecmech
12-17-2015, 09:28 PM
Dremel electric engraver is $20 at Lowe's. It's a good investment.
That would be my suggestion also. Works great marking your lead ingots as to alloy etc. Just like writing on them with a pencil.

Tenbender
12-17-2015, 09:47 PM
I bought some of the NOE expander's the other day. Tried the 358 yesterday with some 359 WC's. All I can say is great. The expander with my RCBS dies measure 357 ? What a diff. .001 makes .