Lee 358-200 RF - how to convert to plain base?

[bedbugbilly]

I'm looking for a heavier boolit to try in my 357 Handi Rifle and have been looking at this newer mold from Lee for the 358-200 RNFP. Like many who have this rifle, the throat is deep but I don't want to convert it to 357 Max. But, I do like playing with different loads for it . . . different boolits . . . etc.

I've had decent luck with some 38 spell loads out of it, 357, etc. with different boolit weights - all I do is plink at 50 yards. I don't load heavy nor push them to where I have to use gas checks and I'd like to keep it that way.

My questions in regards to converting that particular mold from a GC to a Plain Base. Yes, I know I can load them as they cast with the GC and shoot 'em without gas checks. I load up lighter cat sneeze loads to shoot out of my 1905 GEW98 Mauser and in that, I have not had much luck shooting a GC style without the GC but have had excellent results with some plain base boolits out of it.

I just got some Starline 360DW brass which is a tad longer that 357. I'd like to try the Lee 200 out of that if the OAL works out for me in the 36DW brass . . . if not, then the 357 brass.

So to my question . . . is there a decent way to convert the Lee mold to remove the GC and make it a PB . . . or a way that I could do it without having a mill or lathe so that it could be converted? I have a drill press and decent vise but with what machining background I have, I don't think that it would be the "best" tool to use. Nor doing it by hand with a dremel or other hand method.

Not knowing how a new Lee mold would drop as far as diameter - I realize it might have to be lapped but hopefully it would drop at least at .358. If the conversion from GC to PB resulted in the GC area being a tad oversize, they could always be sized to .358.

So . . . for the price of a Lee mold . . . is it worth it? Or if there isn't a easy way to do it for the person without a mill or lathe, is there someone who has done such alterations on here that could be recommended?

I have never used gas checks but understand the process of applying, etc If not worth converting a mold to PB . . . would it be better to just put on a GC even though you are pushing it at speeds less than those normally requiring a GC?

Thanks.

[Beerd]

I've heard of it being done to a Lee mould with a sharp knife. Running the bullets through a sizer takes care of any (minor) slip-ups.
..

[35 shooter]

You may want to talk to Ben here on CB. He has great success using a drill press to take out the gc area of a mould to plain base.

His groups prove he knows what he's doing!
You might do a search on "converting a gc mould to plain base".
Some of his threads on how he does it will probably pop up.

[Elkins45]

A letter T sized drill bit is supposed to measure .3580, but bu the time you add in slop and wobble it just might do the trick.

[GhostHawk]

I would think the easy way for plinking, targets would be to use a standard 158 gr. Uses less lead, better speed per grain of your powder, and you get 44 boolits per pound instead of 35.

Like you I have the handi in .357 mag, and love it. It is very flexible.
I am considering loading up some "bumped up" .356 120 grain for it as I have the 6 cavity mold for 9mm.
That thing just rains bullets.

I do have 50 rounds of the .358 200 rf loaded in .360dw brass just in case I should ever "Really" want something dead,quick. I reckon that would do it.

But for general shooting, targets, plinking a smaller bullet seems to make more sense.

If you want the big mold, by all means, I am glad I bought mine, even though the chances of actually having a real need for it are slim.

But if you are going to load the big guy, might as well put a 3 cent gas check on there.
Or not, your choice.

I got my checks I believe from "Sage outdoors" and was tickled that I did not have to buy a thousand.

For me it was worth buying the checks so I could have 50 "max in a .360dw brass" loads.
Who knows maybe I'll get to shoot a hog someday. Or I'll have a moose attack my house.

The Sky is the limit, aim as high as you like. To me that is the joy of rolling our own, we can do it OUR way.

[P Flados]

Using a rifle with 360 DW brass, you will probably be a little faster, but in the same ballpark as my 10" maximum.

If you powder coat, your chance for success without checks should be pretty good. The cost of a two cavity is pretty low. Buy one, cast some up and try em.

My T/C and my Dan Wesson love my Lee 200s. ASBB HF red PC coated and fired checkless at somewhere around 1500 fps.

I think part of my improved accuracy has been better boolits. Once I improved my casting technique (big batches of pre-mixed alloy, pre-heating molds, etc), I am getting pickier, but the cull rate is dropping. I was very happy with my last large batch of Lee 200s. With this batch, it really did not take any effort to get good groups.

I impressed myself today while sighting in my iron sights and did one ragged hole at 20 yds.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?283606-New-LEE-design-358-200-RF

[Mk42gunner]

The beauty of trying to modify a Lee two cavity mold is if you do screw up and irreparably harm it, you are only out ~$20.00. Might be $25.00 now, I haven't bought a new one in a few years.

A couple of ways you could try: a 9mm drill is a skosh smaller than .358", but it will probably cut large enough. An even cheaper way would be to make your own D-bit reamer from a 3/8" bolt and run it in carefully with your drill press.

Or you could spend more than the mold cost on getting a decimal chucking reamer, but where's the fun in that?

Robert

[Beagle333]

If I really wanted one plain based.... I'd send it to Buckshot. Just my .02

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

there was another member here (besides Ben) who plain based a Lee GC mold. He made a jig first, clamped to the blocks, then used a drill bit...turning it by hand.

[Packy]

check noe website they may have a plain base in stock. And there is the 20% off year end sale!

[bedbugbilly]

Thanks everybody for the input - greatly appreciated. Lot's of things to consider.

We hopefully leaving for AZ right after Christmas so I'll wait and order the mold and have it delivered out there. I think I will try the "T" size drill. I have a drill press out there and a good vise. If I align the mold and take it careful, I think I should be able to hand turn the chuck and carefully remove the gas check portion. Then I could polish it with some rouge compound or similar if necessary. Like any Lee mold, you never know what they'll drop at until you try 'em. If undersize, I can lap the cavity. If it drops a tad bit larger than 358, all the better. If the gas check removal leaves it a little oversize, I can always size them to .358 which should remove any unintended flaw and round the rings up.

Thanks again. When I get it done, I'll post to let you know how it works out.

[Mr Peabody]

PM sent

[yondering]

Use a reamer, not a drill, for best results. A 23/64" reamer will leave the hole .359-.360", which is about perfect. I use one in a drill press for all of my bevel base 35 cal molds, it'll work for removing a GC shank too. Letting the reamer self-align in the drill press works very well; I square up the mold in the drill press vise, but don't clamp the vise down. Use WD-40 for cutting oil.

[reed1911]

A chucking reamer in .3580 or .3575 runs 13-14 dollars. So long as the runout on your drill press is not terrible it should do the trick. If your press is not true you can do it by hand.

[robg]

i got rid of the bevel on one of my lee molds,just used shamfer tool to open the mold slightly

[tryNto]

I did 1 of my Lee molds with an X-acto knife.
Before & after.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss261/tryntoo/lee%20300%20gr%20001.jpg (http://s582.photobucket.com/user/tryntoo/media/lee%20300%20gr%20001.jpg.html)

[reed1911]

@tryNto Good Job, looks great!

[dkf]

Best way is to use a milling machine but with care you can the job done by hand. I indicate each cavityin separately on the mill and use a boring head with a tiny boring bar to make GC cavities to PB. I mostly did NOE and MP molds but next up is a 6 cavity Lee RD mold. Doing it like this you can get the hole centers within a .0001" or two and bore just until you start touching the band right below the gas check shank for a seamless transition.

[Mulehead64]

Looks good trynto. Looks like the 310 gr 44 mag. I have thought about doing the same with that mold but with a reamer. How does it shoot?

[gwpercle]

tryNto, that's a sweet de-gas checking job you did. Looks like it came from the factory like that!
Gary