PID or Lyman MAG25?

[Jtarm]

Well I think the title says it all.

As some of you may have read, I'm easing back into casting after about a 15-year hiatus. I gave it up due to time and a divorce that left me a single parent to my precious 11-yo daughter (now grown).

I'm determined to do things right this time around (both casting and 2nd marriage). In my prior casting days, I didn't have this awesome forum as a resource. It looks like a temp control is going to be the ticket to maximizing efficiency and quality of my sessions.

So I've been reading up on all things PID here on the forum. I currently have the Lee Pro 20 pot. I've read Craniums excellent PID build-along from a few years back and when I priced the components at Auberins, it totaled about $120. That's1.5 times what I paid for the pot. Maybe someone has a less-expensive plan or ready-to-go Kit.

On the other hand, it looks like the Lyman MAG 25 is ready to go at about $250.

Thoughts? 3rd options?

P.S. Anyone heard if RCBS plans to introduce a temp-controlled pot? I love RCBS products and would wait for that.

Muchas Gracias!

James

[Smoke4320]

I do no own a Lyman Mag 25 but so far have heard good things about them from other owners ..
most say the newest mold guide works better
My one worry is factory warranty issues with lyman

If your pot does the job and you are happy with it I say buy or build you a PID

[Jtarm]

Yeah the Lee is fine, does the job.

But $120 + sweat equity (I can get the job done, but much slower than most of you guys !), and I'm in to it for almost as much as the Lyman. Of course the purchase price is spent.

You mentioned buying one? Who sells them? I'm certainly willing to look at door #3.

If I there's any chance RCBS will have a temp-controlled furnace in the next few years, I'd go PID & wait for that one. I've always found their quality a bit better than Lyman, and their customer service is stellar.

[Smoke4320]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?257435-PID-Temperature-Controller-s

[Jtarm]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?257435-PID-Temperature-Controller-s

Cool!

[williamwaco]

Keep the Lee - as is.
(This is what I did.)

If you are determined to spend money, get the lyman.
( This is what I plan to do next fall. )

The PID will fix the lack of temperature control on the lee but it will still be a lee leakomatic.

The lyman will improve:

Temperature
Leaks
Capacity.

.

[fredj338]

I have a PID on my Lee 20#, works great. I wish the pot were insulated, that would help quite a bit with heat control. I will likely end up with a Lyman as they get a bit cheaper, still pretty new to the market.

[tja6435]

I built my 2 current PID's for under $60 each. I used a small plastic ammo can for the enclosure. Some guys use old enclosures for computer power supplies, available cheap/free at your local scrap yard. The PID, the SSR, thermocouple come as a kit off eBay for $30-40. You'll need a cheap 12v power supply to power the PID, those are cheap and everywhere. You'll need a receptacle (single or duplex), a cheap extension cord, some wire nuts, some crimp ends and that's about it.

I recetly picked up a 8"x8" sealed junction box that will be the enclosure for my 3rd PID setup which will run the heated base I built for my star sizers.

[Mike W1]

I built my 2 current PID's for under $60 each. I used a small plastic ammo can for the enclosure. Some guys use old enclosures for computer power supplies, available cheap/free at your local scrap yard. The PID, the SSR, thermocouple come as a kit off eBay for $30-40. You'll need a cheap 12v power supply to power the PID, those are cheap and everywhere. You'll need a receptacle (single or duplex), a cheap extension cord, some wire nuts, some crimp ends and that's about it.

I recetly picked up a 8"x8" sealed junction box that will be the enclosure for my 3rd PID setup which will run the heated base I built for my star sizers.

Have 3 PID's and in the quest to learn more and am curious as to what controller you used that would need a 12v power supply to power it. Mine are all powered by 120vac.

[Jtarm]

Keep the Lee - as is.
(This is what I did.)

If you are determined to spend money, get the lyman.
( This is what I plan to do next fall. )

The PID will fix the lack of temperature control on the lee but it will still be a lee leakomatic.

The lyman will improve:

Temperature
Leaks
Capacity.

.

That's what I'm leaning towards. In the meantime I may take a crack at TJs budget PID.

It's not so much wanting to spend money as wondering if I want to sink $120 into the Lee when for another $100 I could get the Lyman, which should be better in most respects.

IDK if they'll go down in price, but waiting a while will give Lyman a chance to find & fix any issues. Looks like they've already addressed some with the mold guide.

If I didn't already have the Lee, it'd be a no-brainer.

[james nicholson]

A PID is easy to build and using ebay parts, will only cost about $60.00. If you go fancier and hook up the thermocouple with the 2 prong connector, you can buy extra thermocouples and use you pid for many other uses, controlling your oven for powder coating, running your moonshine still more precisely, etc.

[pergoman]

For pistol ammo, does temperature variation really make a difference?

[dragon813gt]

For pistol ammo, does temperature variation really make a difference?

Temp variation leads to weight variation. While the PID simply controls the temp it allows you to focus ok every other aspect of casting. This leads to more consistent bullets. Will it show up on target? Kind of tough to say. I personally like knowing that any bullet I shoot is made to highest standard I can achieve.

[Mike W1]

For pistol ammo, does temperature variation really make a difference?

Doubtful. But lowering the temperature 15° the other day when casting made the bullets drop out of the mould easier and that's readily repeatable with a PID. Not so much with just a stem thermometer.

[mgread]

Here is what I build for a other user
https://vimeo.com/148563704

And here my I build for myself
https://vimeo.com/148563855

[wv109323]

For pistol ammo, does temperature variation really make a difference?
It depends on what the ammo is going to be used for. No, if you are shooting at tin cans. I shoot NRA Bullseye and want the best bullet I can cast for 50 yard accuracy,so yes. If I were hunting with a pistol I would say yes.
The PID showed me several short falls in my casting. The biggest was when I added lead or the sprues back into the molten lead. It takes longer than I was giving for the lead to get back to temperature.
Also my old thermostat varied with time. Near the end of it's life I had to turn it to the highest temprature to get to cast. Also there are several wire terminations that were a constant maintenance problem with the thermostat.

[tja6435]

Have 3 PID's and in the quest to learn more and am curious as to what controller you used that would need a 12v power supply to power it. Mine are all powered by 120vac.


Sorry, it wasn't the PID, it's for the DC input voltage on the SSR

[Mike W1]

Sorry, it wasn't the PID, it's for the DC input voltage on the SSR

That's what the PID supplies, the voltage to the SSR.

[mgread]

Not all PID have voltage out for SSR control. Some are just "dry" relay out.

[Maximumbob54]

I didn't even know Lyman had released the Mag25 into the wilds yet. Thought for sure I would see chatter here about them. Now I'm off to search.

[mgread]

I didn't even know Lyman had released the Mag25 into the wilds yet. Thought for sure I would see chatter here about them. Now I'm off to search.

Yes the wilds. But no one has been able to post a picture yet. For what I have seen.

[kryogen]

My lee pot with the pid works fine.

[Smoke4320]

Yes the wilds. But no one has been able to post a picture yet. For what I have seen.

Yes Its kind of like a democrat with a brain scan .. not much to see !!

[Jtarm]

Many thanks for the response.

Can anyone recommend a particular kit from eBay that they've used? A search shows kits everywhere from $15 to over $100 that look like they'd work.

[tja6435]

Not all PID have voltage out for SSR control. Some are just "dry" relay out.

I prefer the MYPIN TA-4, it doesn't have output voltage for the SSR, it does switch the SSR however. This is how I keep the units cheap. The PID's with output voltage for the SSR generally cost quite a bit more than the 'dry' ones do.

[jmort]

I didn't even know Lyman had released the Mag25 into the wilds yet. Thought for sure I would see chatter here about them. Now I'm off to search.
"Yes the wilds. But no one has been able to post a picture yet. For what I have seen."


There have been a few threads on the Lyman Mag 25 with owner/use photos. Biggest complaint is the mold guide.

[tja6435]

Now I'm thinking about it, I'm pretty sure the Mypin TA-4 switches the low voltage DC current that the SSR uses to open/ close the AC side circuit. It's been a while since I built one, I am waiting on parts for the next one I'll build for my Star sizers heated base (also made with parts off EBay and the local ACE hardware for less than $25---heats 2 Star's sitting side by side at the same time)

[Jtarm]

I didn't even know Lyman had released the Mag25 into the wilds yet. Thought for sure I would see chatter here about them. Now I'm off to search.
"Yes the wilds. But no one has been able to post a picture yet. For what I have seen."


There have been a few threads on the Lyman Mag 25 with owner/use photos. Biggest complaint is the mold guide.

I've read that Lyman has fixed it.

[Jtarm]

Now I'm thinking about it, I'm pretty sure the Mypin TA-4 switches the low voltage DC current that the SSR uses to open/ close the AC side circuit. It's been a while since I built one, I am waiting on parts for the next one I'll build for my Star sizers heated base (also made with parts off EBay and the local ACE hardware for less than $25---heats 2 Star's sitting side by side at the same time)

Wow you must crank out the boolits!

[rodsvet]

I've been casting for 45 years. I'm still confused as to why a PID seems like such a necessity. I've always started out with my proMelt holding 15-16 lbs. and add a 1 lb. ingot every 30-40 boolits. The melt seems to stay constant and the boolits uniform. For me it seems like a solution seeking a problem. I guess I'm just old school and not up on the new technology. I will keep reading about it maybe if I can't find anything else to spend my extra cash on, I'l get one and play with it. Rod

[10x]

I've been casting for 45 years. I'm still confused as to why a PID seems like such a necessity. I've always started out with my proMelt holding 15-16 lbs. and add a 1 lb. ingot every 30-40 boolits. The melt seems to stay constant and the boolits uniform. For me it seems like a solution seeking a problem. I guess I'm just old school and not up on the new technology. I will keep reading about it maybe if I can't find anything else to spend my extra cash on, I'l get one and play with it. Rod

I have been casting for over 50 years. I built a PID unit using a REX C100 (Centigrade only) for under $30 and now enjoy casting better bullets faster.
Folks don't "NEED" PID. My pid is essentially a very accurate and quickly responding thermostat. It works just as well with the PID function turned off so it becomes an electronic thermostat with real time temperature readout.
Use of a PID unit as an electronic thermostat has eliminated one variable and allowed me to cast better bullets.
I also discovered my Lyman pot thermostat would only go up to 730F when I wante to run at 740F....