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TCLouis
12-02-2015, 07:45 PM
I know not a real Model 70, but it is what I have.

Had not fired it since last year and went to test it to carry as backup for a hunt this weekend.

Chambered fine, hit where I aimed, wait where is that case I am trying to catch.

In the chamber . . .
High pressure, stuck case?

Pushed out of chamber with no real pressure on the rod,
Primer is fine,
Second shot, same deal
Let's look at that bolt/extractor.
Dang no spring action

NOTHER reason for a real extractor

So can't find any info on extractor removal or type of spring.
Had some gunky oil so I "Kroiled" it, maybe I'm lucky and it is just a stuck spring.

Extractor not jammed/stuck, it moves freely, whatever activates it is broken/jammed.


Anyone have a source for removal instructions, or just simple instructions?

pietro
12-02-2015, 11:55 PM
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I would remove the bolt & first flush out in/behind the extractor (give it a swim in a pail of clean kerosene), all the while trying to work the extractor manually. to see if it frees up - but, be sure to inspect the tip to ensure it isn't chipped or worn.


The extractor is held in by a detent pin.. and the assembly holds a captured coil spring internally.

Changing one is relatively easy - the only thing to watch for is to be sure to get the right one for the family of case head (radius) sizes (They're available from Numrich in standard or magnum sizes).

They're very easy to remove with just a bent paper clip to hold down the spring-loaded pin.

(Google: "post-64 Winchester Model 70 bolt disassembly")



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fouronesix
12-03-2015, 12:24 AM
Very simple to remove or change out as pietro explained.

Unfortunately, Numrich has been out of those for quite some time- unless I'm not reading the listings correctly. Midwest has some small and regular sizes for about $40. A quick glance at fleabay shows one, regular size, in "buyitnow" for $30. Pick yur poison :(

Hopefully, it's just gunked up. Removal and good cleaning will tell the story. The small captive coil spring would be the easiest piece to find a sub for if scrunched or broken.

IMO, the Win push feed extractor is not a bad system at all and is in the correct location- in the lug face. It's not that much different from any number of other push feed type extractor systems like Sako, Weatherby, M16, etc.

TCLouis
12-03-2015, 01:20 AM
The extractor seems to be in perfect shape.
Whatever activates it and causes tension is the problem.
Maybe the Kroil will take care of it, it had some pretty gunky looking oil so it may have gunked up the spring.

I goggled it and did not find anything helpful.

I an assuming the detent is reached through the hole in the center of the extractor.

Having it down will only change the line up of who goes hunting.

Ya know a RCBS 200 grain 33 caliber flat nose boolit will really open up a milk jug full of water moving along at somewhere around 1700+ fps.

Two boolit guns/loads are leading the pack for the weekend (33 and 457 calibers) with a 6.5 caliber with coated projies if I hunt an open area.

Except for another M70, everything of consequence is 98, 1903 or 1917 based and giant extractor is the norm in the safe so I am spoiled.

waksupi
12-03-2015, 12:52 PM
I think I would use carburetor cleaner, then the Kroil.

fouronesix
12-03-2015, 01:18 PM
The extractor seems to be in perfect shape.
Whatever activates it and causes tension is the problem.
Maybe the Kroil will take care of it, it had some pretty gunky looking oil so it may have gunked up the spring.

I goggled it and did not find anything helpful.

I an assuming the detent is reached through the hole in the center of the extractor.

Having it down will only change the line up of who goes hunting.

Ya know a 200 grain 33 caliber flat nose boolit will really open up a milk jug full of water moving along at somewhere around 1700+ fps.

Two boolit guns/loads are leading the pack for the weekend (33 and 457 calibers) with a 6.5 caliber with coated projies if I hunt an open area.

Except for another M70, everything of consequence is 98, 1903 or 1917 based and giant extractor is the norm in the safe so I am spoiled.

Yes, the little hole in the center is the detent for removal. The extractor needs to be removed from the bolt so the whole system can be inspected for damage or at the very least properly cleaned. They are not difficult to take apart and put back together. Squirting it with some solvent or soaking in Kroil may work- who knows? ... but a poor substitute for doing it right.

TCLouis
12-03-2015, 09:59 PM
416

Solvent/Kroil is only to free things up.
I tried pushing something down through the hole and there did not seem to be anything there to push against, so I am guessing it is jammed down, but the extractor will not slide out either.
Little time while I go hunt and will see if things loosen up so I can take it apart and clean it thoroughly.

Those little buggers are sure expensive, hope it never breaks.

Real extractors are far less than that!

wmitty
12-05-2015, 12:20 AM
I have a push feed M 70 in .375 H & H that I've ruined two extractors on by chipping the edge which engages the cartridge rim. I have been looking for several years for a replacement extractor and if someone runs across one please let me know. I finally went ahead and rebarreled a M 700 action to .375 as driving the cases out with a cleaning rod got old fast. Is the extractor made out of a sintered metal? It sure didn't take much to chip the edge enough to prevent the cases from being removed from the chamber.

pietro
12-05-2015, 11:14 AM
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IIRC, Winchester made a lot of post-64 parts using the MIM (metal injection molding) process.


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nekshot
12-07-2015, 09:12 AM
I heard of this extracter issue before and I got to thinking, what would keep you from getting a older style bolt and use that. I would think pulling the barrel and prepping it for the extracter should do it. I have a 54 but no 70 so I don't have any hands on knowledge of the 70's.