Military Finish

[schutzen]

I just bought a CMP M1 and it came with a new stock. The original finish on military wood stocks was boiled linseed oil, but I believe it was cut with something to make it absorb in to the wood deeper/better. Does anyone know how the original finishes were applied to M1's?

Thanks, Schutzen

I looks like I may have blundered on to the answer to my own question. Follow the link to a good page on military stock finishes.

www.jouster.com/Bulletin/refinishing.htm

[Mark@sea]

Congrats on a dang fine rifle!

[Ricochet]

From 1942 on, they finished them by soaking submerged in tung oil, then drip-drying. BLO was used as a touchup finish to keep the enlisted men busy.

[schutzen]

Mark@sea,

Thank you, I have always liked the M1. I did my first marksmanship training with the US Army Reserve with the M1, but we quickly moved on to the M14 and the M16A1.

On to your find; if you don't grab that Trap Door, PM me and I'll send your dealer a check and a license. I live near Dixie Gun works and they want that much for a rifle with no accessories, grab it and enjoy it.

[schutzen]

Richochet,

You’re right on target. What I was thinking of was a touch-up paste. It is listed in the article I posted the link to. It is 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Turpentine, and 1/3 bees wax. It keeps a stock looking good.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I've found Behr 600 a good finish for military rifles. Contains most of the classic ingredients you want, including some wax, without having to mix it yourself. Leaves a great satin finish that feels good to the touch.

Dave

[schutzen]

I will keep the Behr in mind, they make good paint. But, first I'm going to try Hormby's Satin Tung Oil Finish (I have it on hand). It is not quite pure Tung Oil, but it is close.

[eka]

I've used the Formby's Tung Oil on military stocks. I put on several coats and very lightly buff between coats with 0000 steel wool. On the last coat you can leave it as is, or if it's too shiny, you can tone it down with the steel wool. Then I wax with a good paste wax.

Keith

[sundog]

I just finished a military stock with Tru-oil (Birchwood Casey product that most of us are familiar with). Did it the old fashioned way - index finger. When I had 'enough' coats, steel wool job between each coat, I did the 0000 steel wool and JPW rub down which took the edge off the shine and vastly improved the luster. Came out 'purdy goot'.

[Ricochet]

Schutzen, I've used that 1:1:1 paste. It's an old traditional finish that works well. Works even better applied hot, IMO.

[schutzen]

Ricochet,

I have used it to, but I did not know where the "old PSG" got the stuff. I'm still not sure if it was military issue or just an "old lifer's" trade secret he shared.

Schutzen

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

It comes from Finland. They called it Rancid Reindeer Fat, used it on their Finn Mosins.

Dave

[Ricochet]

I've read on Parallax Bill's board that the original Finnish mix had pine tar in it.

The 1:1:1 is an old furniture polish.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

There are a couple of products that when added to Linseed oil act as a "carrier" and are effective in getting the linseed oil to penetrate faster and deeper nto the wood. Turpentine is the old one and works well. I have also used paint thinner and its just as fast, but the fumes are not good to have around and breathe so its better to be in a well ventilated area. The how much to cut with varies with the density of the wood involved and ranges from 2/3 linseed oil to 1/3 cutting agent to half and half. Thats for the first application. For the second coat you should increase the oil to carrier ratio and thereafter use the oil uncut. The rub-a-dub forces the oil into the wood pores and it builds up to level with the surface. It was a favorite with woodworkers/cabinetmakers as it brought out beautiful tones to the various woods used and could be touched up repeatedly over time. It was a popular choice and still is for gunstocks, especially walnut. In olden days the formula was 3 drops of oil and rub for 3 weeks. What fun, but it sure looks good. LLS

[GrizzLeeBear]

Ricochet,

I have used it to, but I did not know where the "old PSG" got the stuff. I'm still not sure if it was military issue or just an "old lifer's" trade secret he shared.

Schutzen

You can buy it here www.thegunstockdoctor.com

I used it over a few coats of BLO on an Enfield. Makes a nice original military finish on walnut. Not shiny or plastic looking like a modern finish.