Moldey leather clean up?

[oldred]

I have a Case Kodiak knife that was lost for about 12 years and recently located, the bone handle and polished blade still look new but the leather sheath has molded somewhat. Fortunately for all but the last few months this knife and sheath was in the dry and thus safe but the very situation that led to it's discovery also meant it was exposed to humidity and a dark place for about three months. The mold is a light grayish powder and there appears to be no blackening or "burning" of the leather that would indicate irreparable damage but I want to clean this thing and restore it to as new looking as is practical.

What would be the best approach for the first step in cleaning this piece of leather? Obviously I don't want to do more damage to it than the mold has already done so what is the best way to clean this piece?

How about after cleaning treatment products? This is a fairly costly knife so I am certainly willing to buy whatever product that works best rather than just rely on whatever I have on hand, suggestions?

[Sensai]

I've had good luck with saddle soap and elbow grease. It has worked for everything from saddles and tack to slings and sheaths with no harm to some pretty crusty leather. It takes several times of rubbing it in, then wiping it down to get the job done. The main thing is that it won't hurt the leather like solvents will. After it's all clean rub in some mink oil to protect it.

[Wolfer]

Like he said. I've used everthing from saddle soap to neatsfoot oil. Mold on leather is nearly always only on the surface.
Lexol leather conditioner is what I generally use. Where my saddles hang in the barn they will be completely covered in gray mold at certain times of the year. I just spray them down with Lexol and wipe them down.

[bedbugbilly]

The problem with some saddle soap brands (and a lot have success with it) is that it uses water. I make holsters, etc. and when you "case" the leather (using water) or "wet form" a holster using water, it drys the leather out. Over time, leather will loose the natural oils and dry out. Mold of course is caused by moisture in some form. If you use saddle soap to clean it up, let it dry well and then use something to put natural oils back in to the leather. There are plenty of leather conditioners that you can use . . . mink oil, Skidmores, etc. i usually use our virgin olive oil. Neatsfoot will work . . . I've used it on harness, etc. but I hate it for holsters, etc. Pay particular attention to the age of the leather. If it is extremely dry (probably not in your case), when used and the leather is allowed to dry, it can crack the surface (hair side) of the leather. I once say an original Civil War cartridge box that was "as found" and which should have cleaned up very well, completely ruined when the owner used saddle soap on it. When it dried, the entire surface cracked and a lot o fit flaked off. Had he used a conditioner with natural oils, it would not have done that.

Depending on how bad the mold is, lots of times it can just be rubbed off with a coarse material of some type - burlap or even a rough terry cloth towel . . . just don't use your wife's best linen!

[oldred]

Ok got some info to go on now and I am considering everything suggested, I tried lightly rubbing the surface and the mold itself does indeed come off but it leaves the surface badly stained. I realize that once mold has blackened the leather and shriveled it, almost as if it has been burned, then it's pretty much hopeless as I lost a nice western style belt and holster that way some years ago. My knife sheath is not nearly that bad but I am also aware, just as the above post points out, that the wrong approach could do more harm than good. Since this leather restoration is entirely new to me I wanted to learn what I can before starting.

[oldred]

Success! I went to Tractor Supply and bought some saddle soap and the suggested leather cleaner, I first lightly rubbed the mold off using a new terry cloth towel then, again lightly, cleaned with the leather cleaner then allowed it to dry. The stains returned when it dried but not nearly as bad as before so I wiped it down with Extra Virgin Olive Oil (BBB I hope you meant the cooking variety because that's what I used) and it turned out fantastic! All the stains are completely invisible now and although it is much darker than it was new it is IMO even better looking that way and certainly much softer. I am working on this thing right now and I am sitting here with a hair dryer lightly warming the leather so the oil will absorb a bit faster, just warm to the touch not hot, and it is looking better all the time.

Thanks guys, I know this might seem like a small thing but that sheath would have been hard to replace and apparently my first idea of washing with warm soapy water and a drop or two of bleach to kill the mold was the wrong thing to do and might have ruined the darn thing. Leather is a bit of a mystery to me as about the only experience I have had with it was to rub Mink oil into whatever item I had and I had never had to deal with mold before.

[lobogunleather]

Next time I suggest club soda and a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean off surface mold (also works for verdigris, that green nasty stuff that builds up on leather when in contact with copper). Then you can condition the leather and restore some surface luster with glycerine soap or saddle soap, applied very lightly and buffed thoroughly. Neutral shoe polish or Johnsons Paste Wax can be used to seal the surfaces and preserve the leather, again in light applications and thoroughly buffed.