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View Full Version : Scored!



Bret4207
04-13-2008, 06:19 PM
After years of looking and drooling I scored a 311316 HP today. No spud, but thats an easy fix. Say what you want about Ebay, but 90% of my moulds have come from there and I haven't paid more than $45.00 yet, with the exception of about $75.00 for a 10 cav H+G #50, with handles.:mrgreen:

mooman76
04-13-2008, 06:37 PM
Good buy for a HP mould. They always go high. I saw a couple HP pins only on there. One was at $55 and the other $31 unless they went up. I was thinking of buying some HP moulds and just selling the pins there! I've bought a few moulds there too and only got burned once but I don't think it was on purpose. In fact I just found out today. I was moulding up some round balls for my BP revolver from a mould I bought 2 years ago on ebay. When I miked the balls they were at .535. I thought it was a .454 mould which was on the box. When I looked at the mould it was in fact .535 mould. I guess I'm out that $$4.50 I spent but I'm sure I will find a use for it and I get to buy another mould.
I just bought a mould the other day from auctionarms. It was a lee 44 HP mould which they don't make any more.

Well done Bret!

leftiye
04-13-2008, 06:55 PM
Mooman, Have you seen how not having a pin lowers the price on a HP mold there? Some people in the watches category take those priceless old Hamilton and Illinois watches apart and sell the case, the movement and the face and hands separately (those prices have gone wild too) a travesty. Wonder if that's what's going on with these molds? If you have even minimal equipment you can make a pin for a hollow point mold - $50? BTW you don't need that wooden handle, they work way better without it (gets hotter easier - or you can set it on a hotplate if you want).

Bent Ramrod
04-13-2008, 09:16 PM
Let me add my congratulations, Bret. I generally prefer the ones with the missing hollow point pins because they a) are cheaper and b) can be fitted with a larger hollow point pin. The resultant boolit is probably too destructive for anything but vermin and/or water-filled PET bottles, but that's most of my shooting anyway.

Bret4207
04-14-2008, 08:14 AM
Thanks guys. The 311316 is my favorite 32-20/32 Mag boolit. I've HP'd them before with a Forster jig which is actually faster for me. This is just one of those moulds I've always wanted.

This design at 14-1800 fps from a 32-20 rifle or any 30 cal rifle is too much of a good thing for small game. For coyote sized critters, porkies, snapping turtles, etc it's quite useful. The standard 311316 FN cast of straight WW is really too destructive for bunnies and squirrel unless head shots are taken or the velocity lowered to 1000fps and under.

NoDakJak
04-14-2008, 08:28 AM
Good score! I have never even seen one of those molds let alone cast with one. Should work great in the 32-20 and probably also in some of the 32 S&W Long and 32 Mag revolvers. I have been hollowpoint a few rounds by lightly chucking them in the lathe and using a center drill. Works good! Neil

felix
04-14-2008, 08:36 AM
Bret, how does 311316 compare to the soup can, Lee 311-133-F? ... felix

Bret4207
04-14-2008, 05:56 PM
I haven't done enough testing to say Felix. The designs are similar but the Lyman is less streamlined and a bit longer I think. My Lyman drops .313+ with WW and has shot good in everything I've tried it in. The Soup Can is rounder on the nose and has less of a flatnose. I can say my Soup Can 6 banger piles them up a lot faster than my 2 cav Lyman!