Flash hole deburring ?

[Tedly]

Anyone de burr their flash holes in their brass ? what ,if any differences do you see in group size , etc. ?

[GRUMPA]

Differences??......It's more like removing the variables in the case..

I process more brass in a month than most do in 10yrs. The burrs go from mild to wild real quick to the point that at times I block the flash hole when I remove the crimp using a Dillon swager.

[bstone5]

I de burr all of the brass even the pistol brass.
It is a one time thing to do, never checked if it improved on the accuracy.
Started many years ago while shooting Hidh Power matches with a 308 bolt gun, too old for that game now.

[warpspeed]

I do it once, when new or once fired from factory loads.

I have always been amazed at the amount of material that gets removed when I do this to new rifle brass.

[Littlewolf]

i de-burr my rifle brass (a one time deal) but i'll often get as much material there as what i do length trimming. soyeah if the brass is new to you i'd suggest de-burring, i think you will notice better powder ignition.

[billyb]

I de burr all my brass. use a #1 center drill. it also opens up any flash holes that are under size. Bill

[Lead Fred]

Have a nifty tool that rounds the whole, and puts a 45 degree canfer on the flash hole.

I do every piece of brass that goes though my shop.

[Three44s]

All brass gets it here as well.

I first noticed improvement in my varmint loads. ....... .22-250 and .243 etc.

One day, I was messing around with Red Dot ..... a notoriously dirty powder but a goodie ......... and the thought occurred to me ....... "Why not debur a few flash holes on the revolver brass?" Well, it cleaned up 'ole Red Dot pretty well and the rest is history ....... better burn ... better mileage!

Three 44s

[toallmy]

Ok sounds like it's worth a try . Can't hurt, but witch cutter to use . Not trying to mess up the thread , but more details please . Easley tested 20 rounds before and after.I am very interested because I have started using more military brass , getting harder and higher to just order New brass.

[country gent]

You can buy the tool to deburr flash holes from several places. or you can make one yourself. A center drill Small uone 1/8" body or smaller. A piece of 3/16 dia cold roll round stock, a short piece of 1/2" cold roll round stock, and something for a comfortable handle. drill a hole in one end of the 3/16" round stock 3/4" deep or so .002-.005 smaller than center drill dia. face ends square. machine a taper with leaving straight section 1/4" long on 1/2" rd stock. drill 3/16 hole thru and drill and tap a 6-8 32 hole to lock in place on shaft. This can be made caliber specific but you need to make more then. 3/16" round stock needs to be long enough for longest case plus the tapered guide and 1 1/2-2" to go into handle. To assemble drill a pocket in scrap steel blocj to depth of center drills cutting area. open drill hole .005-.008 with a drill. Use this block to support center drill and press into hole in 3/16 rod. Install tapered guide. glue into handle.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I deburr flashholes on most everything. I've run across burrs that almost block the flashhole. I am always surprised at how much brass is removed. Subjective observations give me about 1/4" to 1/2" group reductions at 200 yards with most rifles, more at longer ranges. The observation of very heavily burred flashholes got me started. In the military as an ammo officer I saw more than one cartridge without a flashhole and many misfires that included almost closed flashholes in both 5.56 and 7.62. Quality is better now that late 60's.

[bullet maker 57]

I deburr all my rifle brass.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I de-burr all my rifle brass, new and fired by others, for my shooting and loads for those few that I load for. I had a bench rest shooter put me onto this trick. It does make a difference in the flame from the primer firing start a more uniform burn in the powder. RCBS and Lyman offer tools to do this chore. With my RCBS case prep station machine it takes most of the work away from your fingers.Robert

[toallmy]

I appreciate the detailed information ( country gent ) but I am not very handy at making things. But I think I will give the rcbs or lyman a try . I have thought of it in the past , but put it off . Now I think is a good time to try it out . I am working on a couple rifels I may be able to see the difference with. I am using some Federal 300 mil brass, 762 L.C.lr necked down for a 243 ,and 223 from LC brass. Some of my rifles shoot tighter with a little thicker neck. DON'T worry gentlemen I am very careful with safety . Thank you.

[EDG]

The tools made from a #2 center drill for this purpose tend to bounce up and down a lot when deburring Remington brass.

Remington brass has punched flash holes and they tend to have a large funnel or crown of burrs on the inside.

I deprime my brass by hand using a Lee hand punch and a 8 oz dead blow plastic hammer.
After knocking out the primer I give it another whack to smash the burrs down flat. When mashed flat they make a right angle at the edge of the flash hole after being bent over. Then they are very easy to cut with the flash hole deburring tools.

[bangerjim]

If it is brass, has one hole, and is not plugged up, I reload it and shoot it. I rarely ever mess with flash holes as I have not seen any need unless gunk is definitely there.

[Littlewolf]

Lyman makes a great flash hole de-burr tool that also threads into their case prep center stand (8-32 threads). it'sthe tooli use tode-burr

[country gent]

Like a drill bit or mill used in brass a little work with a very fine stone stops alot of the chattering. The tool would perferably have 3 or 5 flutes so the cutting edges arnt in line with each other. Most fight drilling brass and soft materials, these require diffrent relief angles than steels.

[Frank46]

deburr all my brass and you only have to do it once. you'd be suprised at the amount of chips from some of the burrs around the flash hole. Frank

[Lead Fred]

154275

A simple hand tool is all thats needed. I have a different companies, wooden handled, but works the same

[georgerkahn]

I use a dedicated tool made and purveyed by Sinclair exclusively for deburring flash holes. A second step I do is uniform the flash hole size -- I find the size variation from lot to lot, and brand to brand of same caliber brass amazing! Lastly, I use a tool called a "crocogater" which, with a few quick twists of the wrist, further uniforms pocket depth. 'Specially with gas guns, that the primer *IS* seated below rim is imperative! Like others posting, I too have not done a "no" versus primer-pocket-cleaned comparison vis accuracy results. But, I do feel better about my loads with the flash hole deburred, a uniform hole size, and pocket size to ensure below-rim seating.
BEST!
georgerkahn

[Dframe]

I have a deburring and uniforming tool but is seldom gets used unless I spot an unusual flash hole. I'll occasionally find one with a lot of burrs or an excessively small flash hole. Then the tool gets used.

[Dieselhorses]

Glad I found this thread before I stirred up another. Just procured an interest in this area and wanted to find out if anyone had some concrete data on the "is it worth it" area. I mainly wanted to get some input on actually chamfering the head side of the flash hole. I watched a YT video of a fellow (won't mention any names, and I highly respect his reloading skills) who actually deburrs inside the case's flash hole as well as the outside. In reading one of the comments left for his video, it was said to not mess with the burrs since they cause a more "turbulent vortex". It surprised that he didn't mention any cautionary measures about "SAAMI" specs (hole diameter).

So the 64k question is, "Is it worth going down this rabbit hole"? And yes, I shoot for accuracy.

[QuackAttack24]

I've always inside reamed my necks and turned the outside necks, but only recently started to de-burr all of my benchrest rifle cases. I use the 21st century flash hole de-burring tool. I started doing it recently in search of better accuracy, and it has clearly helped. I'm a believer now.

[Dieselhorses]

I've always inside reamed my necks and turned the outside necks, but only recently started to de-burr all of my benchrest rifle cases. I use the 21st century flash hole de-burring tool. I started doing it recently in search of better accuracy, and it has clearly helped. I'm a believer now.

Great, I guess it’s a mind thing or I’m paranoid about making holes too big. I have the Sinclair International Gen 2 (cone) and it seats at case bottom so no fear of going too deep. It just ever so slightly reams flash hole out but not more than .075 which I think is high for small but low for large.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Lately I've been using a K&M .082 Flash Hole Reamer with a fairly flat base, I have older K&M Flash Hole Reamer that is .080 with just a touch of a cone inside. K&M lists several diameters, some for the small holes in the PPC brass. I usually only ream rifle though I will do pistol brass used for hunting or self-defense.

[pertnear]

I de-burr flash holes on my rifle loads. Personally, I doubt that it makes any practical difference in the ammo. But you know, it can't hurt....

[yovinny]

I've been deburring flash holes and uniforming primer pockets since the 90's.
Started with my bench rest rifles and evolved into doing all my rifle ammo, with the exception of what I consider blasting ammo, or mixed head stamp FMJ loadings.

Last brass I processed was a good size bunch of 2015 LC LR 7.62 Nato. Which surprised me as some of the best, most uniform 308 brass I've ever done before. I hardly produced a chip with either operation and after trimming, every single brass weighed within 2/10's of a grain !!!

[toot]

all military case primer pockets should be deburred or swaged to remove the staking crimps that prevent the primer backing out and jamming in a MG.

[country gent]

What I found more so, is a more consistent accuracy, the shots off call were a lot fewer. over all accuracy did improve some, but the consistency improvement at 300 on out was a big benefit

[Randy Bohannon]

After building high performance engines with my Dad and Brothers ,Dad always made us polish intake ports ,valve seats, tops of pistons polished to 600 grit. It was all about flame propagation with no interruptions .Makes sense to remove obstructions that inhibit flame propagation, I do every piece of brass I use using the Lyman tool after trimming to length to ensure consistent depth.

[JSnover]

I deburr mine. I like the idea of a nice uniform flame coming straight through the hole, rather than the sloppy offset type like you might get with a torch tip that's damaged or dirty.

[lightman]

I do all of my rifle brass and pistol brass if the flash holes look bad. I don't know it it helps anything or not but it can't hardly hurt and its a "one and done" deal.

[Dom]

I have tried shooting brass that was deburred & not deburred. If there was a difference I can't tell it. I'm not a competitive shooter, a hunter. I get consistent accuracy from my reloads as the case comes. I also don't sort by weight. A receint group shot by my Savage 260 Rem & Badlands Precision 6.5 125gr. Rem brass as it comes out of the bag at random. No sorting, no deburring. Three shots at 110yds.286044 This group was shot yesterday after sighting in. Ammo was loaded with Lee brand dies with a "collet" neck sizer. Just about zero run out. I see this as being far more important than deburring.

[Winger Ed.]

I do my rifle brass one time when I first get them.
I use the Lyman tool also.

I'm not sure what difference it makes, but I put it in the category of 'every little bit helps'.

[QuackAttack24]

I have tried shooting brass that was deburred & not deburred. If there was a difference I can't tell it. I'm not a competitive shooter, a hunter. I get consistent accuracy from my reloads as the case comes. I also don't sort by weight. A receint group shot by my Savage 260 Rem & Badlands Precision 6.5 125gr. Rem brass as it comes out of the bag at random. No sorting, no deburring. Three shots at 110yds.286044 This group was shot yesterday after sighting in. Ammo was loaded with Lee brand dies with a "collet" neck sizer. Just about zero run out. I see this as being far more important than deburring.
For me it has seemed to eliminate the flyer that turns your .4" group into a .9" group. I always shoot 5 shot groups, and have stacks of targets with 4 shots inside a half inch, but the 5th one an inch away. Since paying closer attention to all aspects of brass prep, including but not limited to flash hold de-burring, I've noticed that those 1 of 5 flyers are happening less frequently. A couple weeks ago got the first ever 5 shot sub .5MOA group from my wife's Savage 260 Rem. at 100 yards. Which step in the process is more important? Hard to tell for certain without more detailed study, modifying one variable at a time. Wish I had that much time.

[yovinny]

all military case primer pockets should be deburred or swaged to remove the staking crimps that prevent the primer backing out and jamming in a MG.

One nice thing about the LC LR cases is their from precision match ammo, not MG fodder.
They dont have primer crimps to deal with,, nor are they blown out oversize from MG chambers or loose head space.

[cwlongshot]

Yup!

https://youtu.be/3QHAnWrgPAc

CW

[samari46]

Our old range used to host the Crawfish Invintational benchrest match once a year. Best time to buy patches,bore brushes and solvents. Watching a lot of the top benchrest shooters in the country prep their brass and it kinds rubbed off. So all my rifle brass gets match prepped. Pistol brass gets trimmed and primer flash holes gets deburred. Frank

[tward]

I started reloading my 222 Remington in 1970. It was a Remington 788, cheap $100 rifle. I took it home put on a timminy trigger, glass bedded action and free floated the barrel. Reloading I wanted the best accuracy so debarred all the flash holes. I got in the habit early and just kept it up. I use the Lyman tool Tim