Leaky tank

[ncbearman]

I have s galvanized tank I use as a hydraulic fluid supply tank for my log splitter. It has developed small leaks around the feet. We have welded to no avail. My question is will molten lead adhere to the tank in the crevices and stop the leak? Is there something I can do to prep the surface to help it do so?
_Russ

[country gent]

The biggest thing in getting it to seal is getting all of the oil, paint, rust out of the area to be welded and pin holes before welding. Also the gavanized coating will give of poisonus gases welding or heating it and may also contaminate welds. Getting good welds that arnt porous can be tricky on contaminated surfaces. Some oils actually permeate into the metal and can only be removed with heating. If no real pressure is on the tank you might try cleaning heating good and brazing with a tourch and brazing rods. But remove the galvanized coatings before doing.

[bigjake]

Are you stick welding it? that is; arc welding with a coated stick rod? if so, what type/ number? Mig weld? Did you empty/ clean the tank and weld zone with some sort of solvent? Did you grind away the galvanizing like country gent mentioned? Then, can you position the tank so you can weld it in the flat/upright position?

To answer the molten lead question, no, you wont be able to solder or pour lead on that oily, galv. surface.

[triggerhappy243]

avoid the thumping migraine headache.............. just replace the tank.

[ncbearman]

Familiar with welding and brazing, done with that, surfaces are clean, tank has extensive "modifications" trying to keep from "replacing tank"

......................................My question is will molten lead adhere to the tank in the crevices and stop the leak? Is there something I can do to prep the surface to help it do so?

[bangerjim]

No. To "solder" the breaks, cracks, crevasses, etc.....they would have to be 110% clean and brushed down to bare shiny base metal INSIDE those cracks! I have tried (VERY unsuccessfully) to solder tanks like that. No go. Bridging over all the damage with solder does not work well at all. It will NOT go down in the cracks and damage and adhere.

Either use something like 24 hour JB weld......again the surface should be brushed and buffed to a perfect bare metal surface and roughened up a bit and cleaned with laq thinner VERY well (NOT gasoline!)......or just buy a new tank.

Good luck

[SSGOldfart]

avoid the thumping migraine headache.............. just replace the tank.
That's the truth

[country gent]

Also keep in mind if the tank is starting to leak in one place or places, fixing them is probably going to be very short term before it starts leaking somewhere else. The epoxy on a well cleaned surface might work. But again everything has to be just right and almost done perfect for it to work. Im all for fixing things, but sometimes its good to step back and really look at things. If one part of a tank is starting to leak then other areas may not be far behind it either. There are tank sealers available that you mix pour in and work around rolling tipping and moving the tank or if enough opening brushing on. One of these may work but again everything needs to be clean and dry for good adhesion to the surface. Several have done gas tanks for old tractors like this to seal leaks in a tank that couldnt be replaced easily during the restoration. WHat ever you use epoxy wise needs to be able to hold up to the consatnt soaking contact with oils petrolium products also.

[triggerhappy243]

THE ONLY REASON i SUGGESTED TO REPLACE.... THE STEEL IS FATIGUED. WEAKEND. IF THE PATCH DID WORK, IT IS ONLY FOR A SHORT TIME.

[Tailhunter]

JB Weld can work miracles.

[bigjake]

I you live in the Akron, Canton, Cleveland ohio area, I could fix it for you with a garentee.

[mac1911]

My friends dad had a custom fuel cell built onto one of his trucks....rather than buying a new tank he had someone seal up the know leaks they then made a glove for the tank. They basically made a thin shell that the tank sits in. Comes up about 2/3s the height and is welded around the edge...

[warpspeed]

Epoxy will be your best bet. There should be little to no tank pressure.

Can you post a picture of the tank ?

[RogerDat]

Another vote for JB Weld. Clean surface and build up coats with some sanding between can provide one heck of a good seal. I patched the air ride / air brake tank of a bus with it once as a temporary repair and it held back 90 psi air pressure.

Working form the inside and outside may prove to be an advantage. Patch on the inside any liquid pressure will in effect push patch into leak. Patch on outside provides structure and support of inside patch. Especially if working around legs or things attached to the outside you have a better chance of patching well on the inside with JB Weld.

[Seeker]

Another vote for J-B Weld. Paul Harvey knew what he was talking about, it works.. I use that stuff for everything.

[jonp]

Russ, Degrease it and try JB Weld. Everyone should have JB Weld in the house.

[ncbearman]

Update; So we welded around each foot. Then brazed some areas where there look like there might be voids. Then I bought some JB Weld in the stick or roll form. Cut off a piece and roll it around in your hand until its the same color. Then spread it on the areas around the feet. The welds and brazing had it down to a "weep" so I think this fix will get me through this season. That buys time to find another tank for next year. I'll post a pic or vid of frankensplitter when I get it running.

154036 154038 154037

[Petrol & Powder]

Looks like you found a good solution for the short term.
That tank doesn't look too complex, you should be able to make and/or find a replacement at the end of the season. I would suggest going to a rectangular cross section tank instead of another cylinder.

Good Job.

[merlin101]

It seems odd to me that all four legs started to leak, I think I'd look for some kind of stress pushing on the tank or maybe some real bad vibration? You might want to mount it with some rubber grommets under the feet. just my .02

[Nose Dive]

My 2 cents....worth every penny... agree with above...metal is fatigued.. 'fab new base with 25% roll of new tank base and...cut out old...weld in new...

BUT... looks like what you have is pretty nifty.... I found a small tank like that...in a junk yard for 15$ once... steamed...cleaned... put in service... good luck!

Nose Dive.

Cheap, fast, good. Kindly pick two.

[ncbearman]

We weren't sure which one was leaking when we started so.....................I have cut out 4- 4x4 squares from a radial tire to mount under the legs. There were old rubber under the feet but had worn out and the legs were meatL to metal.