Plinker loads for 6.5 Japanese

[clarks359]

I am new to the cast boolit world, so if I ask something dumb please forgive me. I would also like to say "Thanks" in advance for any and all help, it will be greatly appreciated. I have a couple of 6.5 Japanese that I would like to try with cast boolits. I have a Ideal 266469 mould, 5 gal bucket of WW's, but no gas checks. I am looking for a load that will keep the velocity low enough to not need gas checks, if any exists. Once again Thanks for any and all help.

[Ben]

If your mold has a gas check shank on it, you will probably only get marginal accuracy ( or most probably even worse than that ) with your bullets without the gas check in place.

Gas checks are expensive, but 1,000 of them will last you a long time. 1,000 rds out of your 6.5 Jap is a good bit of shooting ! ! I'd like to suggest that you invest in a box of gas checks. You'll get a lot more accuracy out of that particular bullet with the gas check in place.

You'll also gain the advantage of being able to go way out and beyond light plinker loads if you so choose in the near future.

Ben

[725]

I'm looking for a 6.5 jap load, too. Currently waiting on a new mould from Old West Moulds that will drop a PB 130 and a GC 145, or so the target weight is. Eager to see what comes to this thread.

[badgeredd]

I'll be watching this thread too. I have 2 Japs and cast would be fun in them.

BTW, if you happen to need some brass, I found that 35 Remington brass can be formed pretty easy as a replacement and it is often cheaper when on sale in bulk. The neck is short but works fine with 140 grain jacketed bullets so I'd guess that heavier cast would be even better.

[725]

Good to know about the .35 Rem brass option.

[Phil]

Swift brass works just great and you get a full length case. I made a couple hundred of them years ago. Gave half to my buddy and we're still using them.

Cheers,

Phil

[clarks359]

Thanks to everyone for their help and answers. I didn't think about the gas check bullet shooting lousy without the gas check. I have been meaning to get some gas checks anyway, so here is another reason to do it. I noticed that gas checks for the 6.5 are listed as .264 and .257, is this inside or outside diameter? I will look for a plain base mould so I can load some plinkers for my wife and neice. If I use a plain base boolit made from WW quenched in water, what velocity do I need to stay under? I printed the "Sticky" for reduced loads in military rifles, It has great loads for my other rifles, but for anything smaller than 7mm it says to see manuals. Once again thanks for all your help.:-D

[Ben]

These are the correct gas checks that you'll need to order for the 6.5 Jap :

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=618649

If you can find a plain based 6.5 mold ( they are somewhat scarce, most you'll find are gas checked molds ) you'd need to keep your velocities " sub 1,400 fps ". Plain based bullets in this particular speed range " sub 1,400 fps " really don't need to be water quenched. Air cooled WW's will work just fine. The water quenching may benefit you with the gas checked designs if you attempt to exceed the 1,800 - 1,900 fps zone.

Ben

[clarks359]

Thanks Ben for the link to Midway for the gas checks. I will get them on order after payday. The Lyman Cast Bullet book list 14gr of 2400 as a starting load for the 266469. I will try that and see how it goes. I will keep looking for a plain base mould to use for that plinker load. I hope that casting my own boolits will allow me to shoot more. I have several other military rifles I hope to be casting for soon, so I am sure I'll be asking more questions. Once again Thanks for all the help

[Bret4207]

Drop that 14 gr 2400 back to about 10 to start with. Thats not a huge case and there's no sense trying to go fast right off the bat. 10 gr should get you in the 1000-1100 range and thats plinker territory. Work up 1/2 gr at a time. Groups may well shrink a bit as you go faster and then open wildly at the next increase. The big thing is to use as fat a boolit as will fit your throat. That will nip several issues in the bud right off.

[Shooter6br]

My Dad converted a 6.5 Jap Carbine for my first deer rifle. It has a Herter stock. I have Norma brass but made 6.5 out of SWift brass. Run the brass though a full length Jap sizer. Then trim the cases to the right OAL. You then need to neck turn the case to .014 or so thickness..The rifle has a coat of flat black Rustoleom paint on the metal. Th e gun was made when I was 12 I am 52 now. For loads try Unique or Red dot powder. Check out Ed Harris data. Rick

[jonk]

While I have yet to try it, high on my list of projects for this season is to try my Midsouth 'cruise missle' .268 mold in both my 38 and type I rifles in 6.5X50.5SR Jap.