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LIMPINGJ
11-18-2015, 05:14 PM
I got in on this group buy even though I didn't have a rifle for it. Finally corrected that situation and now have a Shiloh Saddle Rifle in 50-70. Those of you that got in on this buy what has produced best accuracy, no wad under this hollow base boolit or using wads? Please list your best accuracy loading tips for this boolit. Thanks.

LIMPINGJ
11-20-2015, 03:42 PM
Guess nobody has had worked with this one. I'll take any advice from anybody loading hollow base boolits in rifle cartridges on the use of wads.
Thanks.

LIMPINGJ
11-20-2015, 03:46 PM
btt
Thanks

quasi
11-21-2015, 01:40 AM
I bought one for my 50-95, I have not cast with it yet.

ndnchf
11-21-2015, 07:32 AM
I don't have this mold, but i'll comment about the wads. I don't think it's a good idea with a hollow base bullet because it can be driven up into the cavity and stic there causing bullet imbalance and instability. The only exception to this is a very thin wax paper wad. I use the wax paper in my 58 Roberts cartridge under a 500gr hollow base bullet. I believe the wax paper is fully consumed, so has no negative effects.

missionary5155
11-21-2015, 10:49 AM
Greetings
Also "have one" that I have not seen. Will not get to it till June next year. I suspect it will work well in any caliber 50 that will chamber it.
Mike in Peru

218bee
12-11-2015, 10:10 PM
I have not used my mould which I bought for my 50/70 yet....but used Lee 405HB in my 45/70 and never use a wad....shoots real well...would not use a wad with the hollow base design. Just my opinion..others may disagree

Washington1331
01-02-2016, 12:00 AM
I've used this mold for my 50/70 springfield trapdoor. I've found it to be a finicky mold. From my experience you have to run this mold hotter due to the way that the hollow base pins are designed. They are a real bugger to get and keep them hot. The first time that I cast with it, I had a large number (nearly 9 out of 10) being throw backs due to incomplete skirts or being wrinkled. I was casting using 20:1 alloy and I found that the ones that were "good enough for government work" weighed in at around 400-410 grains instead of the listed 450 grains.

I got some advice to heat the mold using a hotplate to make sure that the pins were nice and hot. I was too cheap to buy a hot plate, so I just ran the mix hotter than I normally would run and casted as fast as I safely could. The boolits were more frosted than what I would like, but it seems to have solved the problem with the incomplete skirts and weight problems.

Accuracy for me was outstanding once I figured out the "secret" of the mold. The hollow base really bumps up to engage the rifling and seal the bore. There is no need for a wad with smokeless powder, and you can probably get away with not using one with black powder. Personally I use a wad more for fouling control than to protect the base of the boolit. From my experience my bore seems to foul out less quickly when using a wad than when not. Perhaps it acts as a squeegie and pushes some of the softer fouling out the barrel with each shot.

From reading posts here and in other places, some have a concern of the wad being driven into the hollow base and becoming lodged in there during the flight of the boolit effecting accuracy. I haven't experienced this occurance, but I supose it could happen if you have excessive lube on the base of the bullet.

Just my two cents. Hope that helps.

dromia
01-02-2016, 05:16 AM
Yes the pins do need to be hot, I get the pins up to temperature with a blow torch.

Never had frosting with the soft lead and smidgen of tin alloy I use at 750 F, what alloy are you using?

I've never seen a need to put wads under HB bullets, this bullet does well in my Trapdoor Springfield with Swiss No4 powder.

Tom Herman
01-03-2016, 03:52 PM
I've used this mold for my 50/70 springfield trapdoor. I've found it to be a finicky mold. From my experience you have to run this mold hotter due to the way that the hollow base pins are designed. They are a real bugger to get and keep them hot. The first time that I cast with it, I had a large number (nearly 9 out of 10) being throw backs due to incomplete skirts or being wrinkled. I was casting using 20:1 alloy and I found that the ones that were "good enough for government work" weighed in at around 400-410 grains instead of the listed 450 grains.

I got some advice to heat the mold using a hotplate to make sure that the pins were nice and hot. I was too cheap to buy a hot plate, so I just ran the mix hotter than I normally would run and casted as fast as I safely could. The boolits were more frosted than what I would like, but it seems to have solved the problem with the incomplete skirts and weight problems.


Yep. +1 on your experience. I had the same thing happen to me casting .455 Webleys with a pin in the mould for hollow bases.
My first attempt at casting was a huge disappointment, with about 85-90% failures due to skirts and the base not coming out right.
I found that I had to heat the mould up, and run the alloy as hot as my pot would get it before I turned the numbers around.
On a good day, I'm running the usual 85-90% success rate on cast bullets.

-Tom

Grapeshot
01-03-2016, 09:38 PM
I got in on this group buy even though I didn't have a rifle for it. Finally corrected that situation and now have a Shiloh Saddle Rifle in 50-70. Those of you that got in on this buy what has produced best accuracy, no wad under this hollow base boolit or using wads? Please list your best accuracy loading tips for this boolit. Thanks.

I had a Lyman .50 cal. HB mold back in the 1970's.(now discontinued). I used it with my percussion Shiloh Sharps Cavalry Carbine. I never used wads in my paper cartridges but the boolit was very accurate in that Sharps.

GWM
01-25-2016, 06:15 AM
I have been looking to get a .515" HB mold but they are not in stock at NOE's.
If others are interested go to the NOE forums to get a re-run:
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php/topic,1348.0.html