36 navy colt sizing die

[imdamnedifido]

going to make bullets for a friend with a 36 navy colt replica. I was going to order the Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold 375-130-1R (375 Diameter) 130 Grain 1 Ogive Radius Conicalinstead of the 357 mold that shoots soft lead, If I am one the right track so far I need a lube sizing die. I realize that slugging the barrel is the best way to go but I dont have the gun. I was hoping that someone might know if these barrel diameters run about the same diameter.
Any advice would be much appreciated
Thanks Brad

[johnson1942]

your right as it is larger. go up to muzzle loaders and repost your question, you will get a 100 responses and a lot of great information.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

going to make bullets for a friend with a 36 navy colt replica. I was going to order the Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold 375-130-1R (375 Diameter) 130 Grain 1 Ogive Radius Conical

instead of the 357 mold that shoots soft lead, If I am one the right track so far I need a lube sizing die. I realize that slugging the barrel is the best way to go but I dont have the gun. I was hoping that someone might know if these barrel diameters run about the same diameter.
Any advice would be much appreciated
Thanks Brad

The right sizing die for the cap and ball Colts is the revolver cylinder itself. Ramming the bullet sizes it to the correct diameter, and assuming it isn't an inferior reproduction, has the original parts and that the cylinder hasn't become enlarged by rust or its removal, the diameter will be correct.

If that bullet is the same one as I used many years ago, it has two diameters. The rear band fits easily into the cylinder, aligning it for the next one to be swaged down to fit. I don't believe it is practical to size down either of those diameters, and shouldn't be necessary.

[bob208]

above post has it covered. load the bullets and grease the front of the ball. the problem most people have is they try to over think things. I see it a lot on here too.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Yes, a force fit is required for two reasons. A loose bullet can move forward under recoil (or rather gun moves back from it) to jam the rotation, and either a loose bullet or the lack of lube seal can permit a chain-fire, which is usually harmless, but alarming. Some people will tell you chainfires come from cap-to-cap ignition, and I don't doubt they often do, but long ago I used a nipple plugged with brass wire to prove that it can happen at the front too.

That Lee bullet is an excellent design, but you don't lose much by using a round ball, of a size to have a cylindrical belt swaged around its middle by the chamber. Pure lead or a slightly harder alloy will work fine in the Colt.

[bedbugbilly]

The above posts already cover the conical and loading it in the cylinder of the Navy C & B. A .375, as noted, is required to give a sheared ring of lead upon loading. As far as bore size - you have to realize that either a Navy Caliber (.36) or Army Caliber (.44) have the barrel bored that size and THEN it is rifled. i.e. - on a Navy - the bore is bored .360 and then rifled so the .375 is required so the bullet will swage into the grooves when it enters into the bore.

As far as the conicals go . . . some like 'em and some don't. I never had much luck with them in the 50 years I've been shooting C & B revolvers. I much prefer just using a .375 round ball in my Navies - Colt and Remington clones - as I get good accuracy out of them. But, nothing wrong with trying conicals. Get the Lee mold and cast them out of soft lead. Once loaded in the cylinder, lube over them with a preferred BP lube. And remember that the BP lubes primary purpose is to keep the fouling soft.

[imdamnedifido]

Thank you for all your advice it is much appreciated. I will pass this information on to my friend before I begin casting anything. This is a whole different animal than I'm used to casting for. Thanks again Brad