NOE brass vs. aluminum moulds

[mac266]

I have been casting for maybe 12+ years. Thus far, all my moulds are from RCBS, Lyman, and Lee. I've found that, with care, the Lee moulds can make a decent boolit, but their quality control is sometimes lacking.

I've read on other threads how folks love NOE moulds, but I've never owned or used one. NOE makes aluminum and brass. My Lee moulds are aluminum, so I'm familiar with some of the finer points of using aluminum moulds. I've never used a brass one, however.

I'd like to try one of NOE's four, five, or six boolit moulds for some of my pistol boolits, so I can cut down on my time in the garage and increase my time on the range (yes, my Star is inbound from a guy on this very forum!). Do you recommend aluminum or brass, and why? Are there any special considerations for brass?

[georgerkahn]

"Some like blondes while others prefer brunettes", as the saying goes. I have and use moulds from fourteen different makers, in steel, iron, brass, and aluminum. That said, those produced by NOE are of the highest quality in my entire collection! Imho, brass has its challenges: when you get it, it IS imperative you run the mould through three or four heat/cool cycles before casting with it. Also, I know I'd rethink, say, a six cavity brass mould from any maker: brass IS heavy! And, I pass the flame of a BIC lighter on the cavities for the very first few casts. If you graduate to RG or HP moulds, they are a bit more of a challenge for me, as the pins really need to be kept hot. (ALL of my problems with them -- I just lied: maybe 98% -- disappeared when I bought a G.E. hot-plate to pre-heat and keep mould hot before/during casting sessions) Only other "consideration" is MINE, again, are the best in my stable; I doubt if they'll be a disappointment to you. And... brass doesn't rust.
From this site I bought my first (an MP) brass mould, and it took but one casting session for me to be hooked on moulds made of brass. Needing a specific caliber a bit later, I checked out the NOE site and took a gamble on one of Al Nelson's (NOE) brass moulds. Wowsers! Shipping was unbelievably quick; packaging was delightful; and... it casts some of the best boolits I have ever made!
I have aluminum moulds, too, and they're not too shabby either. I started this epistle with the blonde vs brunette quip; in my youth I cast a few zillion fish sinkers with Do-It and other aluminum moulds; boolits with an old iron mould -- from this history, I still prefer bullet moulds from the heavy metals.
If you check out the NOE site, under "Forums", there is a bit of info on care and use of their moulds. The URL is http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php/topic,2.0.html. And, there's much information on this site, too. You may also wish to read an excellent treastice: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm.
BEST!
georgerkahn

[jmort]

My favorites are aluminum from Accurate. I like the lighter weight, but would not hesitate to get another brass mold. Accurate makes the best molds but he will only do around .28" and up, no hollow-point molds, and no round points. He will make you a custom mold to your exact specifications in aluminum, brass, or iron. He has an extensive catalog and even those designs will be custom for you depending on your bullet diameter, alloy, block size etc. I asked him for a custom 200 grain mold for my .357 Blackhawk and he added it to his catalog in less than 24 hours and I had it in my hands a week later. No one can do that, except Tom/Accurate. Highest quality and best customer service. One last example, most of my molds use the widest possible meplat within reason, and I have tired of waiting for a group-buy, so I just had Tom make it. The group buy finally came through after a few months, and I got the mold anyway, and comparing the two, Accurate is the higher quality mold. Again, highest quality and best customer service.

[dragon813gt]

Lots of threads about aluminium verus brass molds. The long and short of it is that brass is heavy. I know four cavity brass molds will be an issue when I get older. Both cast great bullets. Search out the older threads that go into detail about the differences.

[Tackleberry41]

I have not noticed a difference between the bullets from a NOE aluminum mold and a brass one. Except one is like trying to hold onto a brick for a while. Didn't intend on a brass mold, but NOE site said they had a 4 bullet aluminum mold, generally go with 2 at a time, but out of stock. The computer was wrong, so he called me and asked if a brass would be ok vs the aluminum, no extra charge. Sure, well that 4 bullet brass mold is heavy, you can only cast for so long with it. I get to about 100 and Im done for a while.

Seems longevity is the difference with brass and aluminum, brass will last longer. Just cant see me wearing out the overly built NOE aluminum mold, but could see it being an issue with a Lee. Would imagine the alloy used would be a big factor, for the price imagine NOE uses a higher quality alloy than Lee.

[GWM]

Even a 2-cavity brass mold is heavy. Nothing like the slender old Ideal/Lyman iron molds.


he added it to his catalog in less than 24 hours and I had it in my hands a week later. No one can do that, except Tom/Accurate.
Yes that is absolutely fantastic.
I'm inclined to try his iron molds...

[mongoose33]

The nice thing about the Accurate or NOE aluminum molds is that they have a lot more aluminum in them than the Lee molds--and they seem to hold heat better because of it.

Here's an Accurate mold versus a Lee mold; guess which is which? :)

153627153628

[dragon813gt]

It's more the aluminium used than anything. Of course the weight helps. But the higher quality aluminium is what makes the difference. I really don't like the sprue plates that Accurate uses as I don't use the cam lever.

[jmort]

Lately, I am specifying the largest aluminum blanks offered for my Accurate molds in the caliber and number of cavities I pick.

[Tailhunter]

I have both. Brass is heavy. My brass mold is cantankerous. Aluminum is lighter and drops bullets like it's raining. From now on its aluminum for me unless I find out they dissolve after 40 uses or something.

[VHoward]

Even iron is lighter than brass. Brass molds do work great, but they like to be kept hot. Aluminum of high quality is what is ideal. Light, throws great bullets and will last a long time with proper care.

[tonyjones]

I have aluminum, brass and iron moulds and like all three but really like aluminum when it comes to a 4 or 5 cavity mould. Lately I've been ordering 3 cavity brass moulds cut on 2 cavity blocks for .22-.30 caliber bullets. It is easier to get the mould up to temperature and keep it there, especially with .22 and .25 caliber bullets. TJ

[dromia]

Comparing an NOE aluminium mould to a Lee aluminium mould is comparing the sublime to the ridiculous.

I mainly use NOE aluminium moulds purely because of the weight factor.

Well made moulds in steel, aluminium, brass or what ever will all cast equally good bullets.

Each mould material has it own casting foibles and like all endeavours they have to be known and understood, that is usually where mould preferences come in as different people appreciate the different qualities of moulds made from different materials.

For me weight is a big issue so I go for aluminium, but I have moulds made by different manufacturers from different materials and all cast fine bullets when I do my part. I try and avoid lee moulds as I don't like the uncertainty of what dimensions it will cast to, whether it will work at all and if the first two are near enough then I still don't want the fettling required to get them to work. Lee are truly cheap moulds, which is why I buy more expensive moulds that actually work as advertised.

[MT Chambers]

1. Cast Iron
2. Brass
3. Aluminum
4. Lee

[kiwi]

1. Cast Iron
2. Brass
3. Aluminum
4. Lee
I am with you except for No 4, I have cast with some Lee moulds but I have never bought one
Cast Iron/ steel is by far the best even the old Lymans that drop out of round under sized boolits
are still nicer to use than Lee,
I have some NOE Aluminium moulds that have cast many thousands of boolits and are getting pretty beat up
but still turn out great boolits when they finally give up I will replace them with Accurate Iron moulds,
My second favourite is brass MP moulds I have four and am waiting for another one, all are either hollow point or hollow base
boolits and I have two NOE brass moulds brilliant pieces of work,
Accurate moulds I have one Aluminium which is the best alloy mould I own one Iron and three brass,
I have a number of Lyman RCBS and SAECO Iron/Steel moulds all cast good boolits some of them are over 50 years old
I sell my boolits to pad out my pension so I am casting two or three times a week can get through about 100# of lead a month
so the moulds get a good work out,
Do your self a favour buy the best mould you can you won't regret it, a two cavity Iron Accurate mould will out last your grand children
and will only cost the price of a couple of hundred J-words

[RKJ]

I've also got LEE aluminum and Lyman/RCBS Iron molds and just got a MP Brass 4 cavity H&G 68 clone and I really like it. He was offering them in brass and aluminum but after using the LEE, I wanted Brass, but after seeing the pics from Mongoose33 I could have gone Aluminum. Anyway, it is Heavy but for the way I cast it's fine. I'll cast until I get tired/bored then quit for awhile. I expect that it and the iron molds will be used long after I'm gone.

[Beagle333]

1. Cast Iron
2. Brass
3. Aluminum
4. Lee

:goodpost:

[dromia]

If your moulds are getting beat up then you must be beating them.

I have aluminium moulds that have cast 10s of thousands of bullets and they are just fine.

Like I said every material has its own way, understand that and and a well made mould of any of the materials quoted will work just fine and last just as long.

[paul h]

Maybe I'm the odd man out but I find brass to be the most finicky mold material in terms of having it not too hot or not too cold. Other than require a wee bit of extra care so as not to abuse them, I've found aluminum molds to make excellent bullets and to be non tempermental in terms of temperature.

My list:

1) Cast Iron
2) Aluminum
3) Brass

[Larry Gibson]

I have both. Brass is heavy. My brass mold is cantankerous. Aluminum is lighter and drops bullets like it's raining. From now on its aluminum for me unless I find out they dissolve after 40 uses or something.

+1 for me.

Larry Gibson

[W.R.Buchanan]

The first two moulds I bought in 1978 were Lee moulds, a .44-250 and a .308-190 which has dropped a perfect boolit on every cast since new. I still have them, and I still use them, and they make perfect boolits everytime. I also bought a 429-310 and a .308-170 a while back for $5 and they both work perfectly too. The thing about Lee moulds is they are pretty easy to use and for the beginner that's a big thing. Like anything else if you take care of them they will last forever.

My Lyman moulds are obviously all steel and once they get to temp they work well too. They are typically spec'd around the shrink rate of linotype for rifle bullets and Lyman #2 alloy for Pistol boolits so using the right alloy for the type of boolit is key..

Then comes my brass moulds. They are jewelry! Some of the best machining I have seen in my lifetime.

I have two Mihec moulds and both have dropped perfect boolits from the start. They also have interchangeable HP pins which give the moulds lots of versatility. These are by far the best moulds I own and any future moulds I order/buy will be made from brass. It holds the heat best and makes casting so much easier.

One last point: if you don't know how to take care of your moulds then by all means ask someone. There is NO REASON why a bullet mould shouldn't last indefinitely if taken care of.

The only considerations I have found are coating the steel or iron moulds with oil before storing, and keeping the moulds in their original box or a suitable substitute. I buy small plastic boxes to keep moulds in that don't come with nice boxes. This prevents them from getting damaged from handling or just banging around in a drawer or tool box.

What I have found is that mishandling is the primary cause of Mould Failure. YMMV

Randy

[Walter Laich]

Al
Iron
Brass

two rotator cuff surgeries on both arms (total 4) has something to do with it

[mac266]

The first two moulds I bought in 1978 were Lee moulds, a .44-250 and a .308-190 which has dropped a perfect boolit on every cast since new. I still have them, and I still use them, and they make perfect boolits everytime. I also bought a 429-310 and a .308-170 a while back for $5 and they both work perfectly too. The thing about Lee moulds is they are pretty easy to use and for the beginner that's a big thing. Like anything else if you take care of them they will last forever.

My Lyman moulds are obviously all steel and once they get to temp they work well too. They are typically spec'd around the shrink rate of linotype for rifle bullets and Lyman #2 alloy for Pistol boolits so using the right alloy for the type of boolit is key..

Then comes my brass moulds. They are jewelry! Some of the best machining I have seen in my lifetime.

I have two Mihec moulds and both have dropped perfect boolits from the start. They also have interchangeable HP pins which give the moulds lots of versatility. These are by far the best moulds I own and any future moulds I order/buy will be made from brass. It holds the heat best and makes casting so much easier.

One last point: if you don't know how to take care of your moulds then by all means ask someone. There is NO REASON why a bullet mould shouldn't last indefinitely if taken care of.

The only considerations I have found are coating the steel or iron moulds with oil before storing, and keeping the moulds in their original box or a suitable substitute. I buy small plastic boxes to keep moulds in that don't come with nice boxes. This prevents them from getting damaged from handling or just banging around in a drawer or tool box.

What I have found is that mishandling is the primary cause of Mould Failure. YMMV

Randy

Wow...a long answer that had nothing whatsoever to do with my question...

[country gent]

Steel, brass or aluminum moulds will all cast good bullets for you, Comparining factory production to semi custom tooling is comparing apples to oarnges in reality. Brass is tougher harder than aluminum and softer than steel dosnt rust but the sprue plates and alighnment pins can. Brass works better pre warmed on the pot or a hot plate much easier, Brass also holds heat better than the other materials. Steel mehanite is the toughest of the 3 materials holds heat well is the mid of the wieght issue. Steel will rust so a little more care is needed there. If changing handles alot between moulds threads in steel last longer. Aluminum moulds are lighter shead heat faster ( on big moulds small bullets getting to temp with out preheating may be hard) is the softest of the 3 mould materials. All will do a fine job and last a lifetime with proper care. Noe moulds have a great reputation and again the semi custom custom aspect puts them ahead of alot. A worker in a big company cranking out moulds to a production quota and tolerences, Or a worker who is a craftsman making what he feels is the top of the line product. I have brass moulds for big rifle bullets and steel for same. 400+ grain bulletsThe brass moulds are from Old West Moulds the steel are lyman and rcbs A little care using them helps them to last a long time. A piece of 3/4X3/4 angle iron 6-8" long sitting vee down makes a great straight edge to close mould on this helps pre alighn pins saving wear there. Closing the moulds easily and not slaming them around also will greatly increase life. A small riubber dead blow or cap hammer makes anice mould mallet saving wear. Many things attribute to a moulds usefullness and life.

[jmort]

This may answer the O/P's question. From the Accurate FAQs

"What are some of the properties of the different mold metals?2024 Aluminum is very durable, light weight, and inexpensive. Its propensity to change temperature quickly is seen by some as a disadvantage, since molds produce their best bullets within a narrow temperature sweet spot.Ductile Iron is the most durable of the commonly used mold metals. It is easier to maintain a more consistent temperature. It is lighter weight than brass and heavier than aluminum. Its biggest disadvantage is propensity to rust. Iron is rough on delicate boring tools, and thus it is the most expensive.360 Brass is a bit heavier than iron, and costs less because of ease of machining. It maintains temperature very well, and cavities machine mirror bright. Some see its weight as a disadvantage.Sprew plates and hardware are carbon steel.My favorite for my own casting is aluminum."

[Doggonekid]

I'm also looking into to buying a mold from NOE. I have 9 steel molds all RCBS, and 2 aluminum molds 1 LBT and 1 Lee both .476 molds. I love my LBT mold. Cast good boolits. I was thinking about getting me my first brass mold. After reading this thread I think I will stick with aluminum 4 cavity hollow point mold.

[mac266]

I'm also looking into to buying a mold from NOE. I have 9 steel molds all RCBS, and 2 aluminum molds 1 LBT and 1 Lee both .476 molds. I love my LBT mold. Cast good boolits. I was thinking about getting me my first brass mold. After reading this thread I think I will stick with aluminum 4 cavity hollow point mold.

Yeah, although I have steel / iron and aluminum moulds already, I've never used anything with more than 2 cavities. With my recent Star lubrisizer purchase, I'm thinking of upping my production, especially with pistol boolits. It sounds like NOE is the way to go. If I'm going to use 4, 5, or 6 cavity moulds, based on the responses here the aluminum might be the way to go, too.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Wow...a long answer that had nothing whatsoever to do with my question...

Sorry, I thought you were asking which material was the best for moulds?

My point was any of them will produce good boolits. And mishandling them will ruin any of them as well.

When it comes to Custom Mould Makers, I don't hold anyone above anyone else, simply because they are all so close to perfect it is pointless.

All of the Custom Makers produce excellent moulds. You just have to decide who to buy from.

Randy

[paul h]

Yeah, although I have steel / iron and aluminum moulds already, I've never used anything with more than 2 cavities. With my recent Star lubrisizer purchase, I'm thinking of upping my production, especially with pistol boolits. It sounds like NOE is the way to go. If I'm going to use 4, 5, or 6 cavity moulds, based on the responses here the aluminum might be the way to go, too.

I have a pair of 4 cavity MP molds. I like the production, but man are they heavy! I think my next mold will be a 5 cavity accurate or 6 cavity NOE.

[Dragonheart]

I purchased my first NOE brass mold about a year ago, before that I used mainly old Saeco steel molds. I have a few Lee Molds of poor quality that live in the junk box. I now have purchased 6 NOE 4 cavity brass molds and they are great. Yes, they are heavier than steel, but they produce beautiful bullets with hardly a mold line. I just started load development on the NOE 359-128 9mm bullet and was amazed to find only a 1.5 grain variation after weighing out over 300 bullets. That speaks for the quality of a NOE brass mold. I am afraid my Lee molds left a bad taste for aluminum molds, but if I were going to try one it would be a NOE. As far as I am concerned it is now NOE brass first then my steel. I started casting 50 years ago, but I can still run a 20# pot of metal using brass molds. The only trick with a brass mold is heat it first and run the pot hot.

[dragon813gt]

I am afraid my Lee molds left a bad taste for aluminum molds, but if I were going to try one it would be a NOE.

I share the same experience. I was very hesitant to order an aluminium mold from NOE. At last count I think I had fifteen of them. There is no comparison. NOE's are a far superior quality. The reduced weight is more appealing as I get older.

[robg]

glad im not the only one that finds iron etc gets heavy real quick so all my new molds will be alli

[Tailhunter]

NOE moulds are a fantastic value. I own a few and want several more. They will all be aluminum. Now if they can just get their inventory stocked up so I can make that happen. :bigsmyl2:

[Green Frog]

OK, I've refrained from entering this discussion, mainly because I think of it as a "Ford vs Chevy" matter, but I will mention one aspect that affects me. I have always in the past favored iron, single cavity moulds, primarily from Ideal or custom makers because I wanted to cast the most consistent rifle bullets I could, and this just spilled over into my pistol bullets as well (those I didn't buy swaged.) I liked the consistent manner in which the iron held its heat and dropped nice bullets and was willing to perform the minimal care necessary for their upkeep.

I've reached an age and state of deterioration in which I don't like the idea of holding a heavy mould under my pot for long periods of time, so although I want to increase production, I limit my iron moulds to DC for my pistols, and have only tried multi-cavity (4 or more) in aluminum so far (and only a couple of those.) I currently have an NOE 5 cavity mould that throws a beautiful 125 gr RNFP for my 327 Fed Mag and have ordered a 2 cavity 90 gr HBWC mould from NOE in brass after using brass from Mihec. In the future, I expect to order 2 cavity brass and single cavity iron for any additional moulds I acquire, but then again, I like Chevys, you might like Fords!

Froggie

[osteodoc08]

The first two moulds I bought in 1978 were Lee moulds, a .44-250 and a .308-190 which has dropped a perfect boolit on every cast since new. I still have them, and I still use them, and they make perfect boolits everytime. I also bought a 429-310 and a .308-170 a while back for $5 and they both work perfectly too. The thing about Lee moulds is they are pretty easy to use and for the beginner that's a big thing. Like anything else if you take care of them they will last forever.

My Lyman moulds are obviously all steel and once they get to temp they work well too. They are typically spec'd around the shrink rate of linotype for rifle bullets and Lyman #2 alloy for Pistol boolits so using the right alloy for the type of boolit is key..

Then comes my brass moulds. They are jewelry! Some of the best machining I have seen in my lifetime.

I have two Mihec moulds and both have dropped perfect boolits from the start. They also have interchangeable HP pins which give the moulds lots of versatility. These are by far the best moulds I own and any future moulds I order/buy will be made from brass. It holds the heat best and makes casting so much easier.

One last point: if you don't know how to take care of your moulds then by all means ask someone. There is NO REASON why a bullet mould shouldn't last indefinitely if taken care of.

The only considerations I have found are coating the steel or iron moulds with oil before storing, and keeping the moulds in their original box or a suitable substitute. I buy small plastic boxes to keep moulds in that don't come with nice boxes. This prevents them from getting damaged from handling or just banging around in a drawer or tool box.

What I have found is that mishandling is the primary cause of Mould Failure. YMMV

Randy

Thank you for your excellent insight as always Randy. You are a valued asset here at CB and have learned much from your posts along with several of the other high posting, knowledgable gentlemen here.

[GWM]

I have always in the past favored iron, single cavity moulds, primarily from Ideal


I just love them old Ideal 1 and 2 cavs. I never liked the Lee's and it took me a while before I finally brought myself to order a custom Mountain Molds alu mold. That was a turnaround. It is my favourite mold now. But I think the old iron molds are kind of underrated, there have been some very good Ideal/Lyman, RCBS and Saeco too.

Between the custom and semi-custom makers you can get almost anything you wish for, and that's the great news. Even iron is available. I do prefer the weight, size and feel of 2 cavity iron to any alu or brass setup.

And while I never cared much for brass molds I am getting a new NOE Keith HB in brass because it just seems right for that application :) , I am sure that will work out fine too.

[StuBach]

1: Cast Iron (original H&Gs for me, looking to try and accurate at some point)

2: Brass

3: Aluminum (true honesty though I'm in the market for an RG4 NOE to try cause I haven't tried them yet)

I understand the niche that Lee fits and they are a great entry level mold for those just starting. Easy to use and drop easy but poor craftsmanship and QC. I have one Lee and it will likely be my last.

My 3 brass molds are all MPs and two have Cramer pins. Worked through Miha direct on two and group buy on one. Found the need for an extra top punch for my Lyman 4500 (like his better than Lyman's) and asked him to add to my bill from the group buy. He asked for my address and a week later the top punch arrived no charge. I hear similar about Al's quality/care at NOE but can't speak to it myself.

[Blammer]

mac, the NOE aluminum moulds will be NOTHING like the Lee aluminum moulds. Different type of alum.

as for differences in Al and Brass moulds from NOE, brass is heavier, and holds heat a little bit better. I have one of each from NOE and they both work well.

[Chris C]

When I first got into casting.................way back a hundred years ago, (2 years ago to be honest) I ordered my first mold from Tom at Accurate. Since I knew absolutely nothing about molds, I asked Tom what he personally uses. Before I finished my question he said "aluminum" with no hesitation. If the maker of the mold prefers aluminum, that's good enough for me. I might buy a purdy brass one some day and use if for a fancy paperweight on my desk. :)

[clum553946]

Comparing an NOE aluminium mould to a Lee aluminium mould is comparing the sublime to the ridiculous.

I mainly use NOE aluminium moulds purely because of the weight factor.

Well made moulds in steel, aluminium, brass or what ever will all cast equally good bullets.

Each mould material has it own casting foibles and like all endeavours they have to be known and understood, that is usually where mould preferences come in as different people appreciate the different qualities of moulds made from different materials.

For me weight is a big issue so I go for aluminium, but I have moulds made by different manufacturers from different materials and all cast fine bullets when I do my part. I try and avoid lee moulds as I don't like the uncertainty of what dimensions it will cast to, whether it will work at all and if the first two are near enough then I still don't want the fettling required to get them to work. Lee are truly cheap moulds, which is why I buy more expensive moulds that actually work as advertised.

Couldn't agree with you more! I have a bunch of Noe aluminums & they all cast very well, plus customer service is 1st rate. I started with Lee molds & figured out very quickly that they often left a lot to be desired! Gave or traded them away & now own Noe, Accurate, & a few Lyman & RCBS. Brass is heavy but casts a good bullet, but I don't have any complaints with all of the Noe Alum. 5 cavity molds I have! The weight savings over brass is substantial!

[StuBach]

+1 on the customer service from NOE. I have two 40 sw molds, one from lee and one from NOE. Lee has been gathering dust pretty much since I got it cause it was so poor to work with (even after Lee-menting). Noe is a great mold to work with. I have never tried a brass NOE, but my Brass MPs are fantastic. I think it's really personal preference in the end.

I recommend trying a brass mold to see what you think. More than likely there are other CB members somewhat near by willing to let you try theirs if you don't want to drop the money. You might just need to travel a bit to do so.

Either way you won't be disappointed.

[gwpercle]

Very nice moulds , great customer service.

A four cavity aluminum NOE mould is not twice as heavy as a 2 cavity Lee.....It's heavy enough to cause my 67 year old hands and arms to tire and start cramping after about half a 20 # pot. I don't have any arthritis, tendonitis , tennis elbow, old injuries or any other problems with my hands, wrist and arms except for being 67. If you do , I wouldn't get the brass mould...I hear it's even heavier.
That's the only downside To an NOE....the upsides are many and force me to just suck it up and cast those beautiful boolits.
I stop and rest, take a couple Ibuprofen and carry on.
When I saw a 3 cavity NOE mould, in a 38/357 design I love, I ordered it and couldn't stop myself. The 3 cavity aluminum helps and I have experimented with my technique and built up a little stamina so it's good, But I don't know if I could do a brass mould.
Gary