Cleaned my Lee 4-20lb, did I just screw up?

[drfroglegs]

I left my lee pot in the barn over the summer and didn't wipe it down with oil. So, of course, it has rusted to all hell. After wire brushing it for a while I said hell with it and sand blasted all of the steel parts to a nice bright shine.

The problem is, I'm scared that now the first time I use it it will rust like crazy because it doesn't have a protective surface anymore. Should I "season" the pot like you would a cast-iron skillet, paint it with high temperature paint, or just keep it wiped down with oil after I use it?

I plan on painting all the parts that do not come into contact with heat (i.e., the rod supports, handle, etc.).

Before:
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag158/drfroglegs/20151102_115045_zpsqodpweuu.jpg (http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/drfroglegs/media/20151102_115045_zpsqodpweuu.jpg.html)

After:
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag158/drfroglegs/20151102_163949_zps3sbduifi.jpg (http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/drfroglegs/media/20151102_163949_zps3sbduifi.jpg.html)

[country gent]

A simple wipe of beeawax or parfin as it cools wil seal the metal from air and poisture. After casting and when the lead has solidified but still warm hot take a stick of either and wipe around the top edge letting it run down onto the lead and it will flow with the heat between lead and pot sealing it from air and moisture. Next session it simply burn off when heating the filled pot. Not real sure what coatings would hold up to the temps and stiring scraping during casting either. After a few casting sessions it will probably be back to that dark heat blued surface. If you want to get real fancy mix a little oil in with the parafin beeswax. I ussually do this with my big pot when done casting and it never rusts. (25lb propane cylinder cut off 150Lbs capacity.) I ladle cast from this pot and its still blue silver on the inside after years of use. As long as you didnt change or do alot to the end of the valve rod your pot should be fine. If the end of the rod was aggresively wire brushed polished a lapping job may be in your future though.

[imashooter2]

I'd lap the valve and then use it. I don't worry much about rust on pots and ingot molds.

[Geezer in NH]

I'd lap the valve and then use it. I don't worry much about rust on pots and ingot molds.Yep, don't mean nothing :smile:

[drfroglegs]

Has anyone posted instructions on how to lap the valve? You just add some abrasive and roll it like you're starting a fire?

[imashooter2]

I use 240 or 280 grit valve lapping compound and a very slow speed on a variable speed drill.

[drfroglegs]

I use 240 or 280 grit valve lapping compound and a very slow speed on a variable speed drill.
That makes sense. Just to make sure I understand, you take the rod and handle off and leave the pot installed with the valve in there. Then you chuck the rod in the drill and slowly spin it the rod and check the progress until you see wear evenly on the rod? Did I miss anything?

Thanks for the info!

[williamwaco]

I'd lap the valve and then use it. I don't worry much about rust on pots and ingot molds.

I thought all pots were rusty? I have been using one Saeco, two Lyman, and two Lee pots since 1956.

The only time they weren't rusty was when I opened the box.

[imashooter2]

That makes sense. Just to make sure I understand, you take the rod and handle off and leave the pot installed with the valve in there. Then you chuck the rod in the drill and slowly spin it the rod and check the progress until you see wear evenly on the rod? Did I miss anything?

Thanks for the info!

Yep. Just like that. It usually doesn't take much, but if you blasted it, it could take a bit longer to smooth out.