Think my Mypin is strange

[Mike W1]

For lack of a better description. Have done a little casting lately and it was working OK. I generally AT the unit (it shouldn't harm em') and it was holding temperature nicely both times. The third day I AT'd again and noticed that it wasn't holding quite as closely as before but certainly good enough to cast bullets.

Today when I turned it on it wasn't putting power out to the pot so I just plugged the pot in the unit with the Rex PID and did what I was going to do.

Tonight turned the Mypin on, same thing, no power out. So I checked the PID settings from the last session. It had set the "P" value to 0.

Changed the PID settings to a previous setting and bingo, get power out as normal.

Have a Auber and a Rex also and never a quirk with them. So far they're definitely doing a better job for me than this thing is. Starting to wonder if this unit slipped past the inspector!!!

[edctexas]

Do you have the model with the built in SSR or are you using an external SSR? That way I could suggest some tests to see what is up.

Ed C

[Mike W1]

Do you have the model with the built in SSR or are you using an external SSR? That way I could suggest some tests to see what is up.

Ed C

TA4-SNR with SSR Output and I have a 40A SSR hooked to it.

Just seems strange to me that AT'ing the thing that it would turn the P to 0.

I'm going to time the intervals that the unit puts out power to the pot next time I cast. That light is constantly on & off. Neither my Auber or Rex units do that. After AT naturally they pulse on & off but at a much slower rate. Comparing the 3 units it makes you wonder if the Mypin AT function is actually operating properly. What I wonder is if this is normal behavior of a Mypin hooked to a lead pot????

[edctexas]

Can you quai-manually operate the output power? Adjust the setpoint to about room temp. Now warm up the TC and the power should go off. Cool the TC below room temp and the output power should shut off. This would prove that the basic function of the PID is good. I need to look at the manual for the Mypin for info on the AT operation. The Auber unit has settings 0, 1, 2,and 3. AT=3 means the unit thinks it is trained and happy. 2 and 1 are how you place the unit into training. 0 means the PID is a old fashioned thermostat. 2 starts the tuning cycle after 10 secs. 1 starts after the A/M key is pushed. So my guess is if your AT = 0 you might just have the PID function off and it is working like a thermostat.

Ed C

[Mike W1]

Both my Auber and Rex require getting into the parameters to start AT'ing and am familiar with them. This Mypin doesn't have "AT" in it's parameters. To AT it you push the AT button for a couple seconds until it lights and when it's done the light goes out and it's supposed to be trained. Parameters are shown next.

7.79 93.50 23.37 PID settings from a previously AT'd session with lead pot were inputted for testing.
Mypin Factory Sequence
1st Parameter Sequence
AL1 - 100
A01 = 2
AL2 = 450
A02 = 2
P0F = 0
InP = K
P = 3
I = 240
D = 0FF
oUd= Heat
HyS = 1
CeL = 001
ErL = 0.00
ErH = 100
bSL = Pid
C-F = C (Chg to F)
Lck = 000 (010 to Lock)

2nd Parameter Sequence
LSP = 0
USP = 1200
Hy1 = 1
Hy2 = 1
dP = 1
ScK = 015

Set temperature of 90° F on both the Auber PID and the Mypin PID. Water bottles at 119° F & 67° F. Plugged light into the outgoing power outlet. Placing TC in colder water would turn light on. Moving it to the hotter water would turn the light off. However when the Mypin reached the PV it would start flashing the light on and off maybe 1 or 2 times a second. The Auber would have the light off once the PV was higher than the SV like it should have.

Just for the heck of it I set the Mypin back to factory which is having the "D" value OFF. Then it didn't do that pulsing of power to the light but I'm quite sure you really need to have the "D" set at some value. Might just be acting like a thermostat if "D" is off.

I'm quite sure the PID is turning the SSR On & Off and thought so before I tried this little test but I do not think it's supposed to be turning the POWER OUT on and off 1 or 2 times a second. Think I'll contact the seller I bought from and
see what he's got to say about it.

[Mike W1]

Tried a couple things the seller suggested and have now sent the unit back to them for replacement. NY address so it might only be a week or so I hope.

Lucky me had to draw the odd one and get a dud. Surprised I didn't get a reply on here suggesting a fix.

[Mike W1]

The problem with any PID is that at a given time on a given day, things will not be the same...Constant AT'ing will result in different values each time the AT is run. On the same equipment, let the PID do its thing. :)
OB

I realize that. I don't know, but suspect, there's probably always a fairly close relationship between P & I & D whenever you AT for the same load out. I'd guess that would be different if say you AT'd for the luber heater at a much lower set temperature and load draw than if you were changing to the lead pot. That's a big guess on my part though.

However numerous AT'ing won't harm anything either. Like you said you'll just have a different set of figures.

[retread]

I sent one back. Would not activate the SSR. Got my money promptly refunded and bought another one and it was just fine. I have two in operation now and they are performing well.

[rbuck351]

You all just convinced me I don't want one of those PID things. I have no idea what this conversation was about.

[Mike W1]

You all just convinced me I don't want one of those PID things. I have no idea what this conversation was about.

Really nothing complicated about them and if you ever used one, you would want one. Nice to set a temperature and have it held where you want it or to set another temperature. No guessing with these things.

[rbuck351]

Well, there might not be anything complicated about them. I wouldn't know. Your post #5 was written in some language I don't understand which makes it very complicated for me.

[Mike W1]

After I got the replacement unit I spent quite a bit of time comparing things. The second one acted same as the first one did and have since found out that's the way at least this model Mypin does things. It's on it's way home for a refund and ordered another Rex. Prefer the way it performs and can put up with the Celsius readout.

[RobS]

You all just convinced me I don't want one of those PID things. I have no idea what this conversation was about.


Well, there might not be anything complicated about them. I wouldn't know. Your post #5 was written in some language I don't understand which makes it very complicated for me.

Well then you have two posts on this particular thread that was of no need in any way. As to the original poster, I have a Mypin PID controller and never an issue with the operation of the unit. It does sound like you had one that needed to head back to where it come from for sure.

[Mike W1]

Well then you have two posts on this particular thread that was of no need in any way. As to the original poster, I have a Mypin PID controller and never an issue with the operation of the unit. It does sound like you had one that needed to head back to where it come from for sure.

Well I had 2 units and apparently they both performed like they're supposed to. However I prefer the Auber and the Rex. The Mypins were constantly doing the power out pulsing unlike my others. Having had 2 units that did it I'm surprised somebody else hadn't noticed this behavior on their Mypins.