lead pipe valves question

[30hrrtt]

So I got about a 1000 lbs of lead pipe from an underground contractor. There were also half a dozen pails of shut off valves with lead on one or both sides. It looks like a bulge where the lead pipe joins the valve. How do I get the lead off. I know I can throw the whole works in the melt but then the question is what's the possibility of any water trapped in the valve? If I can open it an see through it, it should be fine, right? I've melted A LOT of lead pipes but never with valves.

[JSnover]

You can hold it or hang it above the pot and melt it off with a torch. As long as it isn't a sealed vessel, the water will boil off long before the lead melts.

[Pipefitter]

Also make sure that you can see through what pipe you melt, water and other crud could be trapped inside.
The "bulges" you are referring to at the valves may or may not contain a fair bit of tin, old timers called this "wiping joints", where the pipe was pushed onto the fitting and alloy of lead and tin (lower melting point) was literally "wiped" on the joint with a gloved hand.

[bangerjim]

You are worrying about a little teeny weeny bit of lead inside the valve ends when you have 1000# of lead pipe?????????????????

OMG.....So not worth your effort. Just cut the pipe off flush with the valve ends and forget the rest in the sweat solder joint.

Sell the valves (probably brass?) for scrap and buy some more lead with the $$ you get!

banger

[jsizemore]

Heat the pipe/valve joint with a torch till the solder melts (@450F) and twist/lever the pipe out. A foot or 2 of pipe makes getting it out easier.

[lightman]

Thats a good score! Not knowing exactly what they look like this is just a guess, but I would open the valve and stand them up in my pot. I would start with a cold pot and I would melt them as a separate batch as the joint is probably solder. If the valve is brass it would go to the scrap yard. It helps that I have a pot large enough to do this in.

[carbine]

I'm with Jim on this

[Mitch]

The bulges aer likely solder solder like said it will melt at 450 you could melt if off if you want.Just depends on how bad you need tin or more lead.It will take a lot of time and some propane upt to you if it is worth it or not.the solder should melt off before the pure lead pipe.

[JSnover]

If it's a tiny amount but you can't bear to part with it, drop the (dry) valves into your pot the next time you render a batch of scrap. Let it melt off, scrap/sell/trade the valves. By the sound, it doesn't seem worthwhile to fire up the burner just for that job.

[Lloyd Smale]

propane weed burner

[Nose Dive]

Yup... I agree with all above...

1. dismantle the valve..pull bonnet,,stem...seat....
2. cold cut pipe back as close to valve as you can
3. ensure valve and remaining pipe nipples are 'clear'...
4. Torch off lead end... should go fairly easy...
5. toss valve parts in scrap
6. toss lead droppings and cuttings into smelt pot.

I have been know to water wash out pipe, valves and fitting before cutting with ocy-aceye torch... just to make sure no chemical nasties still reside inside the valve..fitting...whatever.... I too...like to 'waste not...want not'... If I have it and can 'use it'....why not?

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

[30hrrtt]

152404

I should have tried to put up a picture in my first post. The photo is a good rep of all of the valves. It is a fairly large ball at each connection and needs to come off anyways to get the best brass price. I really don't need any more lead but don't turn any down either. They are all water pipes so don't worry much about the nasties. Will try a large torch I use on construction sites for temp heaters. The tinsel fairy tells me not to throw them in the mix.

[evan price]

Start with a cold pot. Put all the valves in the pot. Put a metal lid on the pot (I use a wheel cover/hubcap). Apply heat. Stand back and wait. Fish out the unmelted junk. Even if there is water in there, starting cold, water will boil off before the lead melts.

[dg31872]

If you have a sawzall, cut the brass valve at the end of the lead. You will get a small ring of brass in the lead pipe, but it will float to the top of the melt. Keep this lead separate from the regular melted pipe. You will have a good amount of tin from the wiped joint mixed in this lead.
I have the same thing I am working on myself. Got about 400 -500 pounds pipe with some brass valve in it.
I have a cousin who owns a demo company and he gave it to me.
He WILL get a nice Christmas present this year!

[tinsnips]

Those bulges are hand wiped joints that are most likely solder 50% tin 50% lead. Just heat them with a torch that's what I do it works great. The plus side free tin.

[Good Cheer]

This is wacko stuff alloyed with the joints on some chem plant piping.

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy192/SNARGLEFLERK/mysterymetal_zpsc04b68ef.jpg (http://s791.photobucket.com/user/SNARGLEFLERK/media/mysterymetal_zpsc04b68ef.jpg.html)

Check out the grain structure from when it got stressed.

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy192/SNARGLEFLERK/grainy_zpssn6x2pth.jpg (http://s791.photobucket.com/user/SNARGLEFLERK/media/grainy_zpssn6x2pth.jpg.html)

It isn't solder I'm familiar with. Perhaps something formulated for the service the piping was in. So, who knows what the joints may have in them.

[scottfire1957]

Those bulges are hand wiped joints that are most likely solder 50% tin 50% lead. Just heat them with a torch that's what I do it works great. The plus side free tin.


Yep. Melt it all together, send a sample to BNE per his instructions in the S&S forum. His analysis will help you with alloying it with you other lead.

[Murphy]

Those valves are from the 1950's/1960's. I've been working for a water department for 30 years and work with them every day.

We refer to them as iron to iron cutoff valves. There is a good chance there is some water trapped in those valves. This is just my opinion, but the way I see it you have two choices.

1. Just torch the lead off of the ends and lose a little lead. That is far better than risking a visit from the tinsel fairy. A very mean fairy if you've never had first hand experience with it.

2. Loosen the nut you see on the bottom of T. Take it off if possible. Then hammer the threaded end until the T comes loose and drops out the top. That is the only way to make sure there is no water trapped in them.

Good luck.

Murphy

[too many things]

build you a nice wood fire outside and throw them in . lead will be on the bottom when fire is out
if they are as murphy says the iron will hold water

[30hrrtt]

Thanks for the replies. I tried a sawzall on a bucket of them and it will be pretty easy to cut through the soft brass. I can melt the bulges separately and safely in a pot. I appreciate the comments on the high tin content. I didn't think of that. Theirs a nuff there to get quite a few pounds. I also pm'd BNE for some analysis. I have some "mono" but the other thread on it going on now makes it obvious I have all kinds of stuff in there. I melted it all together and will send a sample of it along with the lead from the valve bulbs and a ww sample for analysis. Man I love this site.

[roberts1]

i get a fair amount of lead pipe and i always melt the joints down separately so i can have a supply of tin from the joints and basically pure lead from the pipe. The tin will obviously have some lead in it but your ingots made from the pipe will be almost pure. Once its all melted together its, well, all melted together so if you wanted pure lead for something you no longer have it. It doesnt take any more time to do them separately and allows you mix them as you need later.