RG1911
10-26-2015, 02:02 PM
For some reason, I really like the Tokarev TT-33 pistol and its 7.62x25 cartridge. However, some nerve damage to my hand, coupled with the narrow Tokarev trigger, made the pistol uncomfortable to shoot.
I finally decided to do something about that. Among the Tokarevs I have is the Yugo version, the M57, which holds 9 rounds instead of 8. I decided this one would be the candidate for some modifications.
If you want to do any of these modifications, I recommend you get spares of at least these items: sear with spring, trigger return spring, and hammer spring. I was able to find a complete fire control module that gives me backup of a few other parts.
Check here: https://www.buymilsurp.com/pistol-parts-accessories-zastava-m57-tokarev-762-pistol-c-3546_10252.html
I've also recently seen parts on ebay.
The first step was to work on the trigger pull. I'm not positive what the original pull was, but I think it was off the scale of my RCBS pull gauge. It took several sessions over some months, but the pull now is down to a smooth 5.2-5.5 pounds. Not the 2.5 pounds of my match 1911, but I can live with that.
The process involved:
- stoning the hammer/sear engagement surfaces
- polishing all contact surfaces involving moving parts (such as the disconnector and where it rubs on the fire control module housing, and the trigger and trigger bow where it rides in the frame or around the magazine)
- modifying the sear, trigger return, and hammer springs. The first two springs are leaf springs strong enough to use on a truck suspension, and the hammer spring is a heavy gauge coil spring.
I carefully did not thin the leaf springs. Instead, I ground out the sides. I held the parts in my hand so that if they became warm, I knew I needed to stop and let the part cool so the temper wasn't compromised. The sear spring was a bit awkward to work on because it is staked/mashed into its slot in the sear and can't be removed.
After several sessions of removing small amounts at a time, this is what the springs look like:
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/sear_spring_0015.jpg
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/trigger_spring_0024.jpg
The hammer spring was a bit more complicated than I had thought it would be. If I cut the original down enough so the trigger pull was actually improved, it wouldn't be long enough to follow the hammer all the way; resulting in very light primer strikes.
Wolff Springs does not stock a reduced-power hammer spring for the TT-33, so I sent a message to tech support explaining the situation and asking if they had a spring similar to that of the Tokarev, but using a lighter-gauge wire. Some days later, I received a nice reply suggesting I try the reduced-power, 9-pound hammer spring for the FEG PA 63 pistol, stock number 32909 (3-pack).
Through trial-and-error (mainly the latter), I got the spring to a length that allowed 100-percent positive ignition with handloads and Sellier & Bellot ammo. It will usually ignite some old Bulgarian surplus I have, but some require a second strike. If this bothers me too much sometime in the future, I'll make a spring that's a coil or two longer.
This is how the cut-down spring compares to the full-length one.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/hammer_springs_0027.jpg
To reduce the pain to my right hand/trigger finger, I had my 'smith make a trigger shoe.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/trigger_w_shoe_0017.jpg
The shoe is held on by two roll pins, and has to be removed to remove the trigger.
You'll also notice the long cutout on the top side of the left leg of the trigger bow. The M57 has a magazine safety that is large and thoroughly staked in place. When the magazine is removed, the safety's tab moves into the slot and prevents the trigger from moving. I simply extended the slot forward because I'm not a fan of magazine safeties.
Accuracy still wasn't quite what I had hoped for, so I finally slugged the bore. This turned out to be right at .312-inch, which I thought was a little loose for a .308 slug. So it looked like relining the barrel was next on the list.
My first call was to Redman's Rifling, but he sticks to the firearms he lists on his site. I finally sent the barrel and slide to The Gun Rack in Starke, FL, 904-964-5053. Everything came back about a week later, which seemed like a reasonable turnaround.
This shows the barrel and sleeve from the muzzle end.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/muzzle_0020.jpg
I did have to recut the feed ramp and the extractor slot. Then off to the range.
Where I found that the chamber was a bit short. I can't blame The Gun Rack because they said they didn't have a 7.62x25 reamer, only the one for the Broomhandle. (Yes, I should have checked before traveling the 65 miles to the range.)
So, I called Pacific Tool and Gauge to order a reamer and Go-NoGo gauges. These not being stocked items, it took a couple months for them to be shipped. Some very cautious work got the barrel correctly chambered.
One "problem" with the liner is that it's a 1-10 twist. I would have preferred a slower one, similar to that of the original bore. But even Redman's uses a 1-10 liner.
The last modifications were to sleeve the barrel bushing because there was a lot of play there, and tighten the slide-to-frame fit. This shows the bushing now.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/bushing_0022.jpg
The basic tightening of the slide-to-frame fit was done by my 'smith because he has the equipment. I then spent several hours using a small hammer to tap the tops of the frame rails, stones to hone them, and finally JB Bore Paste for the final lapping. The fit is improved, although not match-grade 1911 tight. (Besides, reliability was more important than super-tight fit.) There is still a very small amount of vertical play (1/64-inch or less) at the front.
Fortunately, I did not keep track of the cost of all the modifications. I'm getting on in years and am not positive my heart could survive the shock of knowing.
Testing of various bullets and a couple powders finally gave 25-yard groups measuring 3.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches tall. Note that this is a huge improvement over the unmodified pistol, which frequently couln't put five shots onto the 8.5" by 11" printed target. I view the groups as being MOA - Minute of Attacker.
I have not yet chronographed the successful load, but earlier tests indicate that it should be nudging 1500 fps. For the curious, it is 13.8 grains of WC820, a Sierra 85-gr soft point bullet, and a Winchester small pistol magnum primer. (The WC820 is a great, surplus ball powder that I use in .30 Carbine and that uses H110/W296 data.)
I'm still considering replacing the sights. They'd be fine if I still had 20/20 vision, but I don't. After almost two years and I-don't-know-how-much-money, I want to make sure I've covered all the possibilities.
Note: Other than the barrel lining (that I later learned he could have done), and the hand work I did, all gunsmith work was done by John Brandstatter, Roscoe's Enterprises, Pueblo West, Colorado. John has done a large amount of work for me over the years and always does a terrific job.
Cheers,
Richard
I finally decided to do something about that. Among the Tokarevs I have is the Yugo version, the M57, which holds 9 rounds instead of 8. I decided this one would be the candidate for some modifications.
If you want to do any of these modifications, I recommend you get spares of at least these items: sear with spring, trigger return spring, and hammer spring. I was able to find a complete fire control module that gives me backup of a few other parts.
Check here: https://www.buymilsurp.com/pistol-parts-accessories-zastava-m57-tokarev-762-pistol-c-3546_10252.html
I've also recently seen parts on ebay.
The first step was to work on the trigger pull. I'm not positive what the original pull was, but I think it was off the scale of my RCBS pull gauge. It took several sessions over some months, but the pull now is down to a smooth 5.2-5.5 pounds. Not the 2.5 pounds of my match 1911, but I can live with that.
The process involved:
- stoning the hammer/sear engagement surfaces
- polishing all contact surfaces involving moving parts (such as the disconnector and where it rubs on the fire control module housing, and the trigger and trigger bow where it rides in the frame or around the magazine)
- modifying the sear, trigger return, and hammer springs. The first two springs are leaf springs strong enough to use on a truck suspension, and the hammer spring is a heavy gauge coil spring.
I carefully did not thin the leaf springs. Instead, I ground out the sides. I held the parts in my hand so that if they became warm, I knew I needed to stop and let the part cool so the temper wasn't compromised. The sear spring was a bit awkward to work on because it is staked/mashed into its slot in the sear and can't be removed.
After several sessions of removing small amounts at a time, this is what the springs look like:
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/sear_spring_0015.jpg
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/trigger_spring_0024.jpg
The hammer spring was a bit more complicated than I had thought it would be. If I cut the original down enough so the trigger pull was actually improved, it wouldn't be long enough to follow the hammer all the way; resulting in very light primer strikes.
Wolff Springs does not stock a reduced-power hammer spring for the TT-33, so I sent a message to tech support explaining the situation and asking if they had a spring similar to that of the Tokarev, but using a lighter-gauge wire. Some days later, I received a nice reply suggesting I try the reduced-power, 9-pound hammer spring for the FEG PA 63 pistol, stock number 32909 (3-pack).
Through trial-and-error (mainly the latter), I got the spring to a length that allowed 100-percent positive ignition with handloads and Sellier & Bellot ammo. It will usually ignite some old Bulgarian surplus I have, but some require a second strike. If this bothers me too much sometime in the future, I'll make a spring that's a coil or two longer.
This is how the cut-down spring compares to the full-length one.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/hammer_springs_0027.jpg
To reduce the pain to my right hand/trigger finger, I had my 'smith make a trigger shoe.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/trigger_w_shoe_0017.jpg
The shoe is held on by two roll pins, and has to be removed to remove the trigger.
You'll also notice the long cutout on the top side of the left leg of the trigger bow. The M57 has a magazine safety that is large and thoroughly staked in place. When the magazine is removed, the safety's tab moves into the slot and prevents the trigger from moving. I simply extended the slot forward because I'm not a fan of magazine safeties.
Accuracy still wasn't quite what I had hoped for, so I finally slugged the bore. This turned out to be right at .312-inch, which I thought was a little loose for a .308 slug. So it looked like relining the barrel was next on the list.
My first call was to Redman's Rifling, but he sticks to the firearms he lists on his site. I finally sent the barrel and slide to The Gun Rack in Starke, FL, 904-964-5053. Everything came back about a week later, which seemed like a reasonable turnaround.
This shows the barrel and sleeve from the muzzle end.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/muzzle_0020.jpg
I did have to recut the feed ramp and the extractor slot. Then off to the range.
Where I found that the chamber was a bit short. I can't blame The Gun Rack because they said they didn't have a 7.62x25 reamer, only the one for the Broomhandle. (Yes, I should have checked before traveling the 65 miles to the range.)
So, I called Pacific Tool and Gauge to order a reamer and Go-NoGo gauges. These not being stocked items, it took a couple months for them to be shipped. Some very cautious work got the barrel correctly chambered.
One "problem" with the liner is that it's a 1-10 twist. I would have preferred a slower one, similar to that of the original bore. But even Redman's uses a 1-10 liner.
The last modifications were to sleeve the barrel bushing because there was a lot of play there, and tighten the slide-to-frame fit. This shows the bushing now.
http://www.ragtopphotography.com/m57/bushing_0022.jpg
The basic tightening of the slide-to-frame fit was done by my 'smith because he has the equipment. I then spent several hours using a small hammer to tap the tops of the frame rails, stones to hone them, and finally JB Bore Paste for the final lapping. The fit is improved, although not match-grade 1911 tight. (Besides, reliability was more important than super-tight fit.) There is still a very small amount of vertical play (1/64-inch or less) at the front.
Fortunately, I did not keep track of the cost of all the modifications. I'm getting on in years and am not positive my heart could survive the shock of knowing.
Testing of various bullets and a couple powders finally gave 25-yard groups measuring 3.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches tall. Note that this is a huge improvement over the unmodified pistol, which frequently couln't put five shots onto the 8.5" by 11" printed target. I view the groups as being MOA - Minute of Attacker.
I have not yet chronographed the successful load, but earlier tests indicate that it should be nudging 1500 fps. For the curious, it is 13.8 grains of WC820, a Sierra 85-gr soft point bullet, and a Winchester small pistol magnum primer. (The WC820 is a great, surplus ball powder that I use in .30 Carbine and that uses H110/W296 data.)
I'm still considering replacing the sights. They'd be fine if I still had 20/20 vision, but I don't. After almost two years and I-don't-know-how-much-money, I want to make sure I've covered all the possibilities.
Note: Other than the barrel lining (that I later learned he could have done), and the hand work I did, all gunsmith work was done by John Brandstatter, Roscoe's Enterprises, Pueblo West, Colorado. John has done a large amount of work for me over the years and always does a terrific job.
Cheers,
Richard