Lee 10 lb. production rebuild

[Big Boomer]

Has anyone rebuilt a Lee 10 lb. production pot - the bottom-pour version? I have the rheostat and heating element but re-assembling that thing is a bugger. Any help appreciated. Big Boomer

[edctexas]

It is made difficult by the fact that Lee only seems to use self tapping screws with very little metal for them to tap into.

Ed C

[gunarea]

Hey Big Boomer
The best advice I can give you is to remove the base for any and all work. In days past, my little pot got taken apart a least once a year. Take heart, it gets easier each time. While you have it apart you can make a couple tweeks that will improve the performance of the pot. With the valve rod out, the ball point can be thoroughly cleaned and polished. Unfortunately the valve rod and spout orifice are not in a straight line on our 10# pots. Careful notice of position needed at the lift slot and a little luck will guide you to put a slight bend in just the small diameter portion of the valve rod. This angle adjustment makes for a better seal, the rod will have a tendency to remain centered and dramatically improves drip problems.
Fiberglass insulation can be stuffed inside the cover both above and below the heat element. Do one side at a time with the opposing cover screwed into place. Make sure nothing but the actual fiberglass goes in here. Mine have another layer on the outside secured with a split open #303 can tied together with stainless steel electric fence wire. This insulation modification has greatly extended the heating element life. If you would get a PID controller, rheostat replacement becomes a non issue and will yield an overall casting improvement. When, not if, you replace the self tapping screws, go with sheet metal screws one size larger. 151912
The 10# Lee is my favorite, I have a lot of experience with them. I hope this is helpful.
Roy

[Big Boomer]

gunarea: Well, I got it rebuilt and it works well. Thanks for the tips. The can with insulation is a great idea. I have had this Lee 10# pot since 1976 so it has done well. You are right ... need some kind of amp control to maintain a certain level of heat. I use a thermometer and just keep turning the rheostat down until it maintains about 715 degrees. My moulds seem to cast best at that level. Big Boomer

[Catshooter]

" Careful notice of position needed at the lift slot and a little luck will guide you to put a slight bend in just the small diameter portion of the valve rod."

That is genius right there and thank you very much for it. Now why didn't Richard Lee think of that? I guess a guy can't think of everything.

Welcome to the forum by the way, way to show up! :)


Cat