1911 Break In

[StrawHat]

I am taking a break from my S&W 45 ACP revolves and trying to learn to love the 1911. BUT, I am starting out with zero knowledge of it other than it needs some lube and the sights need to line up before you squeeze the trigger.

It is my intention to use cast boolits as the steady diet. What do I need to do to break in a Colt Series 80 GM? Should I start with hardball or just go with a known lead boolit load?

My slightly altered GM, unfired and waiting.

151110

Thank you,

Kevin

[CJR]

StrawHat,,

It doesn't matter whether you use hardball or lead to break-in a 1911. As long as the ammo functions properly, you're good to go. I suggest you put 300-500 rds through it to break it in. After break-in, you'll know what needs tweaking, i.e. mags, trigger, bushing, etc.

Best regards,

CJR

[Greg S]

If it is still factory new, clean it and relube it with oil. Run the rails wet, a drop of oil on to of the slide just behind the locking lugs, a drop down the disconnector hole and a drop on the nd o the barrel. Recoil spring on a standard government model is 16 lbs, change at 1500 rd intervals. Things will really smooth out at the 800-1k mark.

As far as mods, shoot it like it is. The Colt feed ramp should be fine, it is the gold standard what others should look like for a factory gun. I prefer Wilson 47* 7 rd mags. 8 rounders the springs wear out to quickly. The only thing I might do in the near future is put some visable sights on it. Note problems you are having (if any) and see if they persist. The extractor i the key to the 1911 functioning properly and might need some tuning. Plenty of info out there on how to.

[Char-Gar]

That pistol is decades old. Is it unfired since new or unfired by you?

At any rate, just clean it, lube it, and shoot it. Most likely it will work just fine from the start. There are no special break-in procedures or ammo.

I am one of those who think that sliding parts are best lubricated with a light touch of grease. Parts that don't slide are oiled. At any rate, I have been using a light application of grease on the slide rails and under the slide where the disconnector contacts. A drop of oil on the disconnector and another between the hammer and the frame and I am done.

[Love Life]

No real break in required. Shoot he heck out of it. I'm with Char-Gar on the grease/oil thing.

[huntrick64]

I usually clean it, pull the recoil spring out and reassemble without the spring. Lube it up and set in front of the TV racking it back and forth for about 30 minutes to an hour. Tear it back down, clean it, lube it and reassemble with the spring. This does nothing to break in the trigger, but it sure does help "mate up" the rails and slide and stops those FTF's you normally get during break-in.

[9.3X62AL]

Another grease lover on slide rails here. Years in automotive maintenance work leaves impressions on ya. OEM Colt 1911A1-series pistols from the Series 70 and back tend to favor hardball loads or cast loads that duplicate them over hollow-point or SWC bullet forms. Truncated-cone forms like the Lee 230 TC have run well for me in unaltered Colts, too. My first 45--a Series 70 GM--couldn't abide 185 JHPs, Silvertips or Remingtons. Feed it 230 RN--FMJ or cast #452374--and it ran like a house afire. My sis-in-law's hubby has a Series 70 Gold Cup with this same feed regimen. Nicely enough, it runs the WWB 230 grain HP load very well. These are my old shop's (and most of CA LEO) approved ammo these days. Standard pressures--900 FPS from 5" barrels--GREAT street results. Who needs that $1.25-per-shot PDX fodder? Add in that it seems to run well in unaltered vintage 1911 platforms, and we have a winner.

[youngmman]

Wilson has a great u tube video on lubrication of the 1911 on their website that I found useful. In addition they produce a heavy oil for lubing that doesn't leach out of where it's supposed to be.

[Love Life]

Lucas makes a good thick groil as well. I use Lucas red and tacky grease on my rails. Never had an issue of any kind with reliability or undue wear. What year of manufacture is that Colt?

[williamwaco]

I lube the rails with J-B Bore Paste then manually cycle the slide 2000 to 2500 times. Then clean it up good and lube it with Hoppe's or Remoil. Then fire 100 rounds and reclean.

Works great for me.

BTW it takes my old hands three to four evenings of TV to do that.

[Char-Gar]

Wilson has a great u tube video on lubrication of the 1911 on their website that I found useful. In addition they produce a heavy oil for lubing that doesn't leach out of where it's supposed to be.

Anybody with a lathe will have a gallon of "Way Oil" nearby. This is a heavy oil designed to resist gravity and stay on the ways of the lathe. It can be purchased at any industrial supply house.

Way Oil, is considerably better than any light machine or gun oil for long life on the rails of an autopistol. However a good grease will still be there working long after any oil has gone by-by.

I use the great old USGI "Grease Rifle" that was designed for the Garand in wartime. The GIs also used it on their M1 Carbines and 1911A1s. It would stay put under the harshest of combat conditions. There are lots of modern hi-tech miracle greases on the market, but I promise you this stuff will get er done. I don't know jack about the chemistry of grease, but over a half century using this nasty stuff has taught me that it works. Put it on the rails and it will still be there the next time you take the pistol down, no matter how long that it.

[Mytmousemalibu]

Anybody with a lathe will have a gallon of "Way Oil" nearby. This is a heavy oil designed to resist gravity and stay on the ways of the lathe. It can be purchased at any industrial supply house.

Way Oil, is considerably better than any light machine or gun oil for long life on the rails of an autopistol. However a good grease will still be there working long after any oil has gone by-by.

I use the great old USGI "Grease Rifle" that was designed for the Garand in wartime. The GIs also used it on their M1 Carbines and 1911A1s. It would stay put under the harshest of combat conditions. There are lots of modern hi-tech miracle greases on the market, but I promise you this stuff will get er done. I don't know jack about the chemistry of grease, but over a half century using this nasty stuff has taught me that it works. Put it on the rails and it will still be there the next time you take the pistol down, no matter how long that it.


Same here, this is me! Sliding surfaces or parts with a shearing motion get grease. Other parts such as rotating parts, things on pins, etc, get an oil. I prefer the mil spec "Garand grease" too. Lubriplate C-130-AA is that grease. A nice slick lithium soap based grease. All my guns are lubed with the same products in the same manual of arms. I use Slip 2000 EWL 30wt on the other parts and just a smear of Nevr-Seez on the sear faces.

Works perfectly on all my firearms, everything stays slick, lubed and protected against wear. If it was my 1911 I'd clean & lube it with one of the above methodologies and run some cheap hardball through it for 500rds or so with frequent cleaning. Should help get it well on its way to being broken in and smooth.

[c1skout]

Send it to me and I'll break it in for you! I'll send it back in 25 years or so, it should be nice and smooth by then.

[youngmman]

Anybody with a lathe will have a gallon of "Way Oil" nearby. This is a heavy oil designed to resist gravity and stay on the ways of the lathe. It can be purchased at any industrial supply house.

Way Oil, is considerably better than any light machine or gun oil for long life on the rails of an autopistol. However a good grease will still be there working long after any oil has gone by-by.

I use the great old USGI "Grease Rifle" that was designed for the Garand in wartime. The GIs also used it on their M1 Carbines and 1911A1s. It would stay put under the harshest of combat conditions. There are lots of modern hi-tech miracle greases on the market, but I promise you this stuff will get er done. I don't know jack about the chemistry of grease, but over a half century using this nasty stuff has taught me that it works. Put it on the rails and it will still be there the next time you take the pistol down, no matter how long that it.

Thanks a million. I will try the "Way Oil". I have some of the "Ordinance Grease" I use on my M1A bolt but never thought of using on the 1911. I'll give it a try.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks a million. I will try the "Way Oil". I have some of the "Ordinance Grease" I use on my M1A bolt but never thought of using on the 1911. I'll give it a try.

Use Way Oil only for the rails. Don't use it to lubricate other internal parts. Use some other regular light machine or gun oil for that.

[dubber123]

Been using Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in 0W-20 grade for years. It's as thin as gun oil, doesn't dry out and offers outstanding protection. I ran 7,500 rounds of filthy Green Dot powered lead boolit loads through my Springfield without cleaning before I got my first stoppage. It was caused by lead buildup in the chamber. All I did was occasionally squirt some more Mobil 1 on it. That gun has at least 30,000 rounds through it, most fired quite fast in competition, and the bluing is just starting to come off the frame rails. It's good stuff. Works exceptionally well in cold weather too.

[TXGunNut]

I've been using Rig grease on 1911 rails for awhile, CLP most everywhere else. Any new or unfamiliar 1911 needs 300 trouble-free rounds before I'll consider it a carry gun. Round count starts over after any stoppage or parts change. My latest 1911 took close to 600 rounds to get all the bugs worked out.
Is that a new, unfired gun?

[DougGuy]

When you do get around to loading for it, make sure you pull the barrel and give the assembled ammo the "plunk" test and they should all chamber without resistance, without sticking up beyond the barrel hood. You may want to look in the barrel and if the throat is short and the rifling begins rather abruptly, you may want to think about getting the barrel throated to suit your handloads. This a common problem many 1911 shooters run into, and the threads concerning throating the 1911 barrel will tell you all you need to know about the subject.

[Frank46]

Brownells is where I got the lubriplate grease for my Garand. On the 45 I use either clp or weapons oil. Olny got one or two bottles left after a bunch of years. Frank

[StrawHat]

...That pistol is decades old. Is it unfired since new or unfired by you?...

Not sure how old it is but there is no evidence of it having been fired, certainly not more than one or two magazines. Everything is as new, only very faint evidence of brass on the breech face.

Kevin

[StrawHat]

So it sounds like a light smear of grease on the rails and bit of oil elsewhere.

I think I can handle that.

Oh, and shoot it a lot.

Kevin

[Char-Gar]

So it sounds like a light smear of grease on the rails and bit of oil elsewhere.

I think I can handle that.

Oh, and shoot it a lot.

Kevin

That is a plan!

[stu1ritter]

mtymousemalibu, the Garand grease, also called Hunting Grease is 130-A, not the AA version. You might check http://tinyurl.com/ortwchs
Stu

[osteodoc08]

I've been using Rig grease on 1911 rails for awhile, CLP most everywhere else.

Same her. RIG and CLP or other light gun oil I've got hanging around.

Wilson Combat had a grease in a syringe I used for some time until I ran out. Now just use RIG

[w5pv]

I have been trying Microil from Kanno Labs(Kroil) it will come out from the tinyist crack but will stay on the surfaces that needs lube.so far I have had good luck with it on my revolver and 1911,It seeems to smooth the ruffness from the triggers and hammers,

[youngmman]

Use Way Oil only for the rails. Don't use it to lubricate other internal parts. Use some other regular light machine or gun oil for that.

Thank you, I'll give it a try.

[Mitch]

congrats on the nice colt 1911.i sure wish I would have bought a series 80 gold cup back in the day for 375 new lol.I did not get a i911 untill a few weeks ago was my b day.so I ordered a Springfield Range officer.you sound like me a wheel gun guy and a lot to learn about the 1911s.so far I love mine been working on the loads for it.

[Mytmousemalibu]

mtymousemalibu, the Garand grease, also called Hunting Grease is 130-A, not the AA version. You might check http://tinyurl.com/ortwchs
Stu

I've talked to a Lubriplate rep, the C-130-AA is essentially the same grease, just slightly thinner as it is in a squeeze tube VS a can. Little easier to tote in my range bag and more convenient than a can & brush! In application, i have seen no difference in use between the two variants. I did say it was a lithium grease but it is a calcium grease, slip of the ole memory.

[Larry Gibson]

With a quality M1911 the only real requirement for "break in" is a test fire to ensure the magazines and the ammunition to be used feed and function correctly in that handgun.

Larry Gibson

[Petrol & Powder]

I'm another that believes in the Grease for sliding parts and oil for rotating parts.

Everyone and their brother has some pet gun oil/grease that they swear by but in the end you don't need to spend a lot of money on exotic lubricants.
For slide rails, sears and other sliding surfaces, I like lubriplate or some other light grease with lithium or calcium but there are dozens that will do the job. Go easy, a little is plenty.

I've used just about every gun oil known to man and many work just fine. I like Clenzoil for its cold weather properties but in reality there are others that will do the same job. Plain old ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works great if you don't mind the occasional red stain.

As others have said, a little oil & grease goes a long way. Don't over do it.

Good Luck with your new toy.

[Petrol & Powder]

Great article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

[MtGun44]

I use synthetic red aircraft grease on the slide rails for a carry gun, but
synthetic oil on the rails for a range gun, adding a drop every session,
and one drop on the exterior of the chamber, then cycle the action to
wipe it into the slide interior to lube the locking lugs and recesses.

Just shoot it.

[Char-Gar]

With a quality M1911 the only real requirement for "break in" is a test fire to ensure the magazines and the ammunition to be used feed and function correctly in that handgun.

Larry Gibson

True dat!

[matrixcs]

With a quality M1911 the only real requirement for "break in" is a test fire to ensure the magazines and the ammunition to be used feed and function correctly in that handgun.

Larry Gibson

I will second/third the true words......
However you will get lots of advise from many here.......

[Char-Gar]

I have never found that a good autopistol needed rounds fired to work as designed. They either work out of the box or they don't. Some of them are picky about magazines and ammo but that is about all. If a new auto pistol does not perform with the factory mags and the designed ammo, it is time to send it back to the maker.

I did note on a few that it took a few rounds for the parts to mate properly and the sight hit to the point of aim. However this is not a reliability issue.

I have noticed that often times, when folks try to modify/trick out a gun, they will induce lack of reliability. I will not buy a used gun that has been modified in any way. A good maker will have given great thought to the design, tested it and tested it again until any bugs are worked out. Mind you I said a "good maker", for there are some people who are selling junk.

[sundog]

I like to do a couple extra tear down, inspect and clean/lubes on a new/rebuilt hand gun just to be sure there are no 'errant fouls' hanging around. Once I'm satisfied it is dependable, clean and lube as needed.

As an aside, any handgun I intend to carry gets a magful/cylinderful of ammo through it after cleaning to insure function. My carry gun is 'dirty' but functional. I cannot see any reason to carry a firearm that might not function.

[Love Life]

My stable is rather full of Colt's right now, and I plan to add more, and have sold more over the years. There have been issues (mainly newer guns from the 90's up until now). Stuff like poorly staked front sights, poorly fitted thumb safeties, loose grip screw issues, finish issues, machining marks in barrels, and other little things. However, every single one has been dead nuts reliable out of the box and tend to shoot as well as most people can shoot them. None have ever needed a "break in" period. I grab the ammo can marked "45 ACP" which has an assortment of +P hollowpoint loads, 200 gr SWC, 230 gr ball, and other various fodder. I then shoot as many different loads as I can testing for function and accuracy. I guess that's the break in...maybe? After the 1st range trip I do a detailed disassembly to check parts for burs, poor fitting, etc.

If anybody who works at Colt is reading this, please give the thumb safety fitter a lesson on how to properly fit a thumb safety. I've driven far and wide this year and have handled upwards of 50 new manufacture Colt 1911's, and all the thumb safeties have been overly stiff, and a bit mushy as they engage. Totally not cool when the bargain basement import can have properly fit thumb safeties...gnomesayin?

Back on track...My Colts like the 200 gr SWC at 1.250-1.265, 230 gr ball at 1.255-1.270, 200 gr Jacketed hollowpoints at 1.250, 250 gr SWC at...well I'll have to dig it up. Lubed with traditional lube, PC, HI-TEK, or jacketed, the guns just don't care what I feed them. If they have a sharp throat, run a bunch of plated through it (500?) and that aught to take care of it or send it off to Dougguy.

[apen]

I still use Hoppe's no 9

http://www.bullseyepistol.com/oiling.htm

[Petrol & Powder]

Hoppe's #9 is a decent solvent but a terrible lubricant and I wouldn't want the ammonia to constantly be present on the gun.

[apen]

Hoppes 9 oil....not solvent
I use their solvent too for cleaning.

[Petrol & Powder]

caught it.

their oil is very close to 3 in 1 oil.

[TXGunNut]

The 300 round break-in period I adhere to may not be necessary for every 1911 but I still do it. My mentor taught me the reasons for doing it over 30 years ago and I still feel like they're valid today. Newly manufactured or custom built guns often need a few rounds to "settle" in and I can usually feel the difference as this happens. This process generally takes less than 100 rounds, usually one range session. I usually identify fit and reliability issues during this first 100 rds and make the needed adjustments or repairs. Next hundred rounds I'm just getting trigger time, verifying repairs and maybe adjusting sights. Next session is more trigger time, making sure all my mags work in the new gun, and making sure my carry loads feed and hit where I want them to. I'll also do some one-shot and three-shot drills from leather to get all those moves worked out. My 1911's are all carry guns but they have significant differences. I like to work them out on the range, not chance doing it on the street. A break-in period gives me confidence in a 1911, if it has a bad habit it will show up in that time. I started carrying 1911's when they were anything but reliable. After 300 trouble-free rounds I have confidence in the pistol and I've gotten some trigger time in as well, and we all need that.
I don't know if today's 1911's truly need a break-in period. My most recent one had minor issues that were encountered and resolved in that period. I also found it's ammo likes and dislikes and enjoyed the trigger time. Some modern 1911's may not need a break-in period but I'm an old-school 1911 toter and I guess I'll always need one.

[Petrol & Powder]

I can't see any harm in shooting a new gun to:
*verify that it functions flawlessly
and
*become familiar with the gun


Besides, it's fun to shoot them !!!

Some semi-autos seem to benefit from a break in and some don't seem to care at all.

I had a couple of Kahr pistols that clearly got better with use and the Kahr owners manual specifically stated a 200 round break in period was required.
I know of a few people that purchased new Kahr's and criticized the guns for functioning problems before they got 50 rounds out of the gun. In one case I pointed out the 200 round requirement and the owner admitted that he hadn't even read the manual. After 100 rounds through the gun it worked perfectly and was 100% reliable from that day forward.

However I've yet to see a Glock that wouldn't function right out of the box. In fact, they are the one gun that I will not clean & oil before shooting the first time.

With 1911's it seems to vary. Some work perfectly when new and some need to "wear in" a bit. It seems to depend on a lot of different factors. I had a Kimber one time that worked fine with no break in required which shocked me because the gun was one of the tightest 1911's I ever had.

[TXGunNut]

Agreed about the Glock, P&P. Only had two Glocks but each had a funny copper-colored grease that supposedly helped the break-in process. Cleaning would have been a mistake, or so I heard. Each one settled in after a few dozen rounds and performed flawlessly after that. Sigs behave much the same way but don't seem to "settle in" much, quite good from the first shot. My little Ruger LCP was good from the first shot, I needed some time to transition from another pocket 380 but after that it was pretty sweet.

[9.3X62AL]

Glock and SIG-Sauer both have a reputation for being pistols you can take right from the box--fill the magazines with ammo--and carry confidently into combat. OK, maybe. I still want a shakedown cruise before I trust any sideiron to go in harm's way. Call me unevolved.

[Char-Gar]

Having confidence in you hand gun and your own ability to use it correctly is very important for survival. I tend to buy NIB handguns for social purposes and in the past 15 years I have bought Sig, Glock, Ruger and Beretta auto pistols for that purpose. They all worked fine out of the box, but none-the-less, I shot them long enough to have the importance confidence I needed.

I am am a certified geezer who remembers the time when all auto pistols required a break in and trouble shooting period, before they could be trusted. While most of today's handguns don't require a break-in, my mind still requires a period of confidence building shooting.

[StrawHat]

...Having confidence in you hand gun and your own ability to use it correctly is very important for survival ... I am am a certified geezer who remembers the time when all auto pistols required a break in and trouble shooting period ... my mind still requires a period of confidence building shooting...

I agree with this. I carry a revolver for all purposes and am just getting confident with the 22-4. This 1911 may never be carried for purposes other than target shooting or plinking but I still want to have confidence in it.

Kevin

[Petrol & Powder]

Having confidence in you hand gun and your own ability to use it correctly is very important for survival. I tend to buy NIB handguns for social purposes and in the past 15 years I have bought Sig, Glock, Ruger and Beretta auto pistols for that purpose. They all worked fine out of the box, but none-the-less, I shot them long enough to have the importance confidence I needed.

I am am a certified geezer who remembers the time when all auto pistols required a break in and trouble shooting period, before they could be trusted. While most of today's handguns don't require a break-in, my mind still requires a period of confidence building shooting.

I agree. Just because a gun will work right out of the box doesn't mean I would forgo shooting it before relying on it.

Some designs are a little more tolerant than others but I need to shoot any gun for a while to develop that needed trust.

[Char-Gar]

I agree. Just because a gun will work right out of the box doesn't mean I would forgo shooting it before relying on it.

Some designs are a little more tolerant than others but I need to shoot any gun for a while to develop that needed trust.

Yes, we need to build confidence in our weapon. Folks like to think that survival is tied to equipment and taking the right training. Equipment and training are important but survival at it's core is a head game, as are most things in life.

[ole 5 hole group]

Here's my take on this - and I read all 3 pages too. Break-in is for your peace of mind or call it anything you like, as you can fire 2500 rounds and fine tune everything - then on your 2501 shot you can have a fail to return to battery, failure to fire, hammer follow, stove pipe or any number of things could go wrong at that moment - and you can call that anything you like.

As for survival, you can have a perfectly functioning firearm, be in tip top physical shape, have years of firearms training in all the disciplines and if you don't have luck - well, good luck with that one, as you can go up against anyone and all it takes is they get off a round one nano-second before you and that BB finds a piece of your CNS, well, you'll have to wait for that SOB at the Pearly Gates to get another chance at him. So, my take is peace of mind gives you confidence but luck brings you home - don't confuse confidence with experience or common sense, as sometimes confidence is misplaced.;)

When I competed in 2700 - my 1911's were built by the best back in the day and I took extreme care with them and so did 99% of the others on the line - BUT - every match there were one or more guys that experienced some type of failure. Once in a blue moon I would get a stove pipe - all I can tell you is that I got 80% of those stove pipes in matches during the ragged fire stage - if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any luck!!!;)

Relying solely on your firearm (training in tactics and marksmanship being a given) to get you out of a dire circumstance is a little shaky at best, as you better know how to get that firearm back into action when something goes wrong with it - and you need to recognize immediately if it's fixable or not because if it's not, you really need to make yourself scarce.

For those fortunate enough to be able to shoot 100 rounds a DAY these days - after a couple years, you will have probably experienced most problems encountered by most shooters with your type of firearm. There are some really weird problems that can come up once in a blue moon but it all adds to one's experience in problem solving and firearm problem solving is important, if one wants to be a "gunfighter".

[TXGunNut]

As for survival, you can have a perfectly functioning firearm, be in tip top physical shape, have years of firearms training in all the disciplines and if you don't have luck - well, good luck with that one, as you can go up against anyone and all it takes is they get off a round one nano-second before you and that BB finds a piece of your CNS, well, you'll have to wait for that SOB at the Pearly Gates to get another chance at him. So, my take is peace of mind gives you confidence but luck brings you home - don't confuse confidence with experience or common sense, as sometimes confidence is misplaced.:wink: -ole 5 hole group

I think you're missing the point. Confidence if one's sidearm is indeed a tactical edge. If my opponent is unsure or inexperienced with his weapon than I indeed have a tactical advantage. I'll only carry equipment I trust completely. Yes, bad guys get lucky now and then but the majority of the time confidence and competence prevail.

[Love Life]

Action normally beats reaction. If ol' cuz has the drop on you...

[ole 5 hole group]

Naw, I got your point - I'm just saying you always need a little luck to be on your side, as if that good ole Lady Luck takes a hike on ya, well, your $2 per round super duper ammo will be a squib and lodge in your barrel etc. I've witnessed and heard of some God-awful **** happening to some well prepared folks and all that can be said is "it just wasn't their day" as some things just can't be taken into account.

Having an advantage however you see it 99.9% of the time is great betting odds but that 0.1% is 100% to that poor soul experiencing those odds and there's always someone with those odds on any given day.

You got it Love Life - have that puppy in your hand, safety off and if he even twitches bring it to bare and go from there. If he's got the "drop" on ya - ya he will have the 1st and maybe one more shot before you can engage and you will need Lady Luck's caress to come out clean.

[Love Life]

I read an article years back when I was a teenager. It was in a Cold Steel knife catalog. A statement in it for the ad for the Gunsite tanto read "Action beats reaction, and proximity negates skill."

That has stuck with me.