Too hot to hold

[Silverboolit]

I would appreciate any info that you have on a particular problem that I have. Recently re-barreled a Savage 112 with a stainless steel barrel. From a 22-250 Rem to 6.5mm Creedmoor. Prefit barrel and no problems with headspacing. Went smoothly and no problems.

Here is what I have run into: Very hot, too hot, after 10-12 rounds. Not rapid fire, about 1 min. between shots. Also, the primers show really flattened w/ small dent from firing pin. Factory Hornady ammo. Looks like high pressure, but no other signs. This barrel is a copper mine in spades! Had it out this weekend, cleaned with 25 patches of Sweet's and is still coming out bright blue. Not good. Also, recoils like my .308. Accuracy at 100 is about 1-1.5" and should do better, I think. About 130 rounds through it. I will be contacting the mfg. this week.

Any ideas out there?

[lancem]

slug it and see what you've got.

[Artful]

Have you slugged the bore?

[Silverboolit]

.264 groove and .256 lands ( as best as I can measure the lands on a 8 twist)

[country gent]

Do a chamber cast and see what throat you have in the barrel. A short tight throat will increase pressures and the sighns. If possible find a bore scope and see what the bore looks like smooth even finish or rough an gravely looking? Stainless barrels seem to hold heat longer than blued barrels do to me. How heavy is the jacket fouling in the bore, A light wash showing or heavy fouling from breech to muzzle? Are you using a brass jag with the sweets? This can give a false showing of copper due to the jags material. You may end up doing a break in on this barrel. A simple fire a round and clean for 10 rounds check for fouling and if none 2 rounds and clean for total of 10 rds check for fouling then 3 rounds and clean for 9-12 rds and check for fouling, 5 rds groups for 20 rds and check for fouling, 10 rounds and clean to 100rds . This may help smooth up the bore and relieve some of the jacket fouling. A good bore scope may show alot of the issues if one is available. Some barrels will foul for the first part of their life. Rough surfaces, radial tooling marks from reamer, damage in the first part due to misfit pilot improper lube chip removal. Short throats tight throats tight chambers min headspace all combine to increase pressures also. Check everything over very carefully.

[Teddy (punchie)]

Okay lets see Stainless is not a steel barrel. Stainless welding years ago I learn that is a heat holder.

Pressure signs, flat primmer, how flat?? Can you still feel the gap (primmer pocket) between brass and primmer? Is it starting to creator around the firing pin?

I have an old 300, I let set open and up and down like a chimney, if you will to get it to cool faster. Place the open action toward the wind to.

[Hannibal]

It seems your main concern is a hot barrel?

Any rifle that I own that fires a bottle-neck cartridge with full power loads is going to get pretty darn hot firing 10 to 12 rounds a minute apart. If I'm firing a 10-shot group to test for accuracy, particularly with a sporter contour barrel, then I let it cool nearly completely between shots. So it takes 45 min to an hour for that 10 shot session.

Needless to say, I don't shoot a lot of 10 round groups. Pretty darn tedious

Hope this helps.

[Love Life]

Lots of good advice. I'd get the final finish kit and give that a try.

[Artful]

I'd check that a .264 bullet will slide into a fired case.

[Wolfer]

When I cut the chamber in my 7x57 I stopped as soon as it would close on a go gauge.
Starting loads will get me very near max load velocity. Halfway between start and max I have to beat the bolt open.

A slightly tight chamber will up your pressures.
As has been said 10 full power loads one minute apart will heat up most guns.

[Silverboolit]

Thanks for all of the timley replies. I will check out the bullet/fired case, maybe do a chamber cast. The heat thing is concerning as the 22-250 and .308 don't heat as fast, maybe new barrel breaking in? The barrel is a heavy varmit .800 at muzzle, so there is a lot of mass there to heat up. I probably have the new barrel blues, expecting too much too soon and more attentative to the little things that may go wrong.

Thanks again for the suggestions!!

[HangFireW8]

One more thing, if the chamber neck is a bit short (or your cases long), it might be pinching the bullet in place and causing high pressures.

[Blackwater]

Country gent, Artful, Wolfer & Hangfire have outlined the most likely suspects. Now it's just a matter of checking for each.

[M-Tecs]

Bore diameter, neck diameter, neck length, throat diameter, throat length will have significant effect on pressure. Minimum headspace has very little if any effect on pressures.

If you are not familiar with the terms here is a good read http://ar15barrels.com/forming.shtml


This barrel is a copper mine in spades! Had it out this weekend, cleaned with 25 patches of Sweet's and is still coming out bright blue.?

Heavy copper fouling indicates increased friction.

[Silverboolit]

Worked out a deal with the seller of the barrel and am awaiting a new one. He agreed that I should not be having all of the problems and agreed to try a different mfg.

[williamwaco]

It seems your main concern is a hot barrel?

Any rifle that I own that fires a bottle-neck cartridge with full power loads is going to get pretty darn hot firing 10 to 12 rounds a minute apart. If I'm firing a 10-shot group to test for accuracy, particularly with a sporter contour barrel, then I let it cool nearly completely between shots. So it takes 45 min to an hour for that 10 shot session.

Needless to say, I don't shoot a lot of 10 round groups. Pretty darn tedious

Hope this helps.



Ditto.