Dirt Cheap Home Built Case Feeder

[44Vaquero]

150768150771150770150769150772

All together I have less than $20.00 in this build. My goal was to build as much as possible from scrap and parts I had laying around. I will post a video later.

[Vinne]

Hay what a great idea. Looks like you found yourself a great time saver. Maybe you can give us a parts list and a break down of how to put one together!!

[Sasquatch-1]

What is the motor you are using?

[Ola]

NOW I'm interested! Parts list would be nice..

[jmorris]

I like it.

[44Vaquero]

The motor is from a dodge truck blower vent door. It's perfect for this application: strong, 12V, 3 1/4 inch mounting holes, 8 to 10 rpm and the hub will accept a 5mm Allen wrench as a drive key. I happened to have one in my junk box but they can be sourced for as little as $17.00.

As for an actual parts list as I stated earlier it was a dirt cheap build so most everything is what I had on hand. The Bucket came from ACE Hardware, power supply was from a HP net book, 3/4 inch PVC, 1 inch clamps, 3 1/4 carriage bolts w/nuts, 6 fender washers, 12v automotive switch, 1/2 inch base flange w/3inch nipple (insert into 3/4 pvc for base mount), a funnel and 8 inches of 1/2 inch PEX and a 5mm 1/4 inch socket(drive connection).

In keeping with the concept of dirt cheap/simple: no whisker switches or speed controls were used, just an on/off switch.

Tools required: Drill w/various bits, razor knife, heat gun, glue gun and a pop rivet tool. It really is a stupid silly easy build!

Thanks Jmorris! high praise indeed!

[JASON4X4]

Great job
I have one like this on my list to build just cant seem to find the time

[SSGOldfart]

Hmmm looks good I'd like to see a drawing of this once you have it video would be nice as well

[44Vaquero]

Unfortunately,

There will never be a detailed drawing of this project as it was/is a trial and error scratch built device. My best advise is to start out like I did with a bucket and a motor and a vague idea of what will work!

I started by centering the motors hub on the bottom of the bucket and then drilled the 3 bolt holes and the center hole for the axle. The pictures of case feeder looked like they tilt about 45 deg?? so does mine. The support column is/was bent to match and away you go one obstacle at a time.

[LUBEDUDE]

That is awesome 44V!!

[44Vaquero]

Video Links:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xKI2wTUvmc



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIMXRpSBPNA

[Whiterabbit]

the operative part, the white disc with nice paddles already integrated, what is it? besides the holes was it "found" or "made"?

[44Vaquero]

The shell plate can be cut from pretty much any flat stock you have on hand: Wood, Ply-wood, MDF, Plexi-glass, HDPV etc. The paddles are just cut scrap hot-glued in place. Actually just about any thin stiff material could be used.

[skeettx]

I like this, and will fit on a STAR :)

[44Vaquero]

Things that I would do different next time:

2 gallon paint bucket instead of 1.5 (heavier thicker)

No need to cut bevel on bucket

use 1/2 inch stand offs instead of 1 inch (move motor closer to bucket base)

[beeser]

I admire your ingenuity. Good job!

[deepwater]

What prevents case going into a slot upside-down?
If so, then what?

Great job!



deepwater

[44Vaquero]

Deepwater,

The shell plate rotates on a 45 degree axis and the cases have a weight bias towards the bottom due to the case head being thicker. So as the plate rotates cases fall into the slot and if upside down as they approach the top, the above mentioned weight bias causes them to fall back into the hopper. Gravity is a case feeders best friend!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Nice 44!

I had three Stars at one time and they all had a "free loader" set up to them and works on the same principal!

The case will not go into the hole UNLESS it can go in case head first (which is what you want!)

Your ingenuity is making it for pocket change and finding such a robust and affordable motor to run it!!!

This of course could be upgraded with more metal and probaaly still be under $50 and compete with commercial loaders in the $300+ range!

[44Vaquero]

For .38's it drops on average 18 to 24 cases per minute that's 1080/1440 per hour well ahead of my Pro-1000's production rate of 300/350.

"This of course could be upgraded with more metal and probaaly still be under $50 and compete with commercial loaders in the $300+ range!" Pretty much what I was shooting for!!

As for my design, I looked at other home build's with the plexi glass funnels and elaborate boxes to house the motor and controls and thought there has to be a better way? I would like to see a few people take my idea and run with it!!

The motor was a fluke my Dad had 2 laying around and the window regulator I tried 1st turned way too fast (speed control was outside the concept of "Dirt Cheap") cases would not fall due to "Centripetal Force". I was telling him about it and he gave me the motors to try!

I will be adding a micro switch soon as the design is effective enough to warrant one! E-bay has some for under $1.50 each shipping included.

Seagiant I think I must be on the right track if I can impress you, Jmorris and Lubedude!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well....colour me impressed!

The only thing I would do if building for me, would be go metal on everything.

To satisfy my English/German, Aryan, sensibility of style!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I do have one question. I searched on ebay for the same motor and came up with suitable motors, but not cheap enough. What is the specific motor/year model truck and location your motor came out of? The motors I'm finding are 12V, but are between 20 and 30 bucks each, which still is not expensive.

[44Vaquero]

Dave,

Here is the cheapest I have found:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Dodge-Ram-heater-a-c-VENT-DOOR-ACTUATOR-motor-hvac-box-defrost-floor-BLEND-/361123147975?hash=item54149df0c7&vxp=mtr


I actually got mine from my Dad who pulled them from a Junker in the salvage yard.

Hope this helps.

[mjwcaster]

A quick search showed one at autozone for $27, doorman brand.
Seems to be the going price for new, found some more expensive for OEM Mopar.
If I were to buy one new, it would be from a local parts place with a return policy, so I could make sure it works for the project.

Seems like a great reason for a trip to the junkyard, and something to keep an eye out for.

I really want to build a case feeder someday, thanks for posting this.
The motor always seems to be the most expensive part in a home build.

[44Vaquero]

There are so many little gear drive motors in cars now, I can't see ever using anything else ever again for most projects! My son picks them for me on occasion, he carries 2 9volt batteries with jumpers to test them in the junk yard.

$24.00 is the best I found new! The thing to remember is this motor will most likely never wear out!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Thanks 44 Vaquero, was able to find it at a reasonable price using your description. Should help out a great deal on my bullet feeder project.:) My press doesn't have an option for a case feeder, but does for bullets, but the collator portion was always ridiculously expensive.

This should allow easy conversion to load .223 and .308 along with my favorite cast boolit pistol calibers.

[44Vaquero]

Dave,

Still working on that RCBS progressive? You have the one that uses the APS priming system right?

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Dave,

Still working on that RCBS progressive? You have the one that uses the APS priming system right?

I'm not really working on it. Once I got a defective machine part replaced and got it properly adjusted, it stayed adjusted and is boringly reliable. It is the RCBS Pro 2000 with the APS Priming system. I have a lot of strips for it, not as many as I like, so I'm going to buy up a bunch of the preloaded strips, then reuse them after that. The primer system is boringly reliable and safe as all get out.

I already have bullet feed for cast boolits in pistol calibers, but I don't have a case collator.I've wanted to add bullet feed for the .223 and .308 since my hands have Psoriatic Arthritis now and are kinda stiff. Feeding those smaller bullets and even the big ones ain't much fun any more.

I figured out a way to add a case feeder, but I've have to have someone make an aluminum or brass piece to replace the plastic one that surrounds the shell plate to mount it. Not something I really want to do at this point, though I may get around to it at some point.

[offroader69]

How hare do you think it would be to do the same thing for a bullet feeder.

[44Vaquero]

Dave,


Always thought the APS was a good idea that came at the wrong time. I have seen it in action , it works and it works well! I don't really understand RCBS, They continue to improve the machines and then it seams they suddenly lose interest and move on to something else. It's as if the entire company suffers from ADD? Even their new 7 station press, a fantastic piece of work at almost 1K and no case feeder?? ***?? I wish I had access to a Pro locally, I can only tell so much from pic and vids?

Offroader69, Bullet feeders are a bit more complex than case feeders. Rifle is easier than pistol, but the issue is still the same varying diameters and nose shapes. These 2 issues tends to make home builts one shot wonders dedicated to particular caliber and bullet shape.

I really like Mr.bullets feeder and may experiment with a similar homebuilt idea.

[offroader69]

Thanks for the info

[jmorris]

There is some info in this thread on how to build a bullet collator.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259684-Auto-conversation-for-the-Star&highlight=Bullet+feeder

Info in this thread on making a case feed for a pro 2000 (not the collator part though).

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=659144&highlight=Case+feed+pro+2000


This fellow made a cheap DIY bullet collator kit http://entirelycrimson.com/collator.html.

I am not sure about Rick's (KISS/mrbulletfeeder) first design but I know when he hooked up with double alpha and came out with the new design he got a patent for it. The kits seemed to have "sold out" after his lawyers got involved.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Jmorris,

Thank you for posting that. I had read all those threads back when and was about to go looking for them. I think for me getting the plastic and milling the right "flip ramps" for the bullets to orient correctly will be the biggest bit of work for me.

On the case feeder, my idea was a derivative of his, except I'd decided to replace the black plastic piece you see around the shell plate with an aluminum one that is machined to extend out and form the section for the case feeder slide. Once that's done, it's a simple matter of building the case slider parts and bringing the feed tube to it or at least I think it is.

With my life settling down a bit now, I'll have more time to do such projects.

Dave

[44Vaquero]

Jmorris,

Thanks for the links, I will be taking a closer look at them soon!

I have been in contact with Crimson already thru FB supply and continued product is in question? No more kits! It's a shame too, he has a good design and the people I spoke with who built one love them!

He is being somewhat tight lipped about the future of his product, time will tell?

[jmorris]

I made one case feeder myself after it was concluded that the SD couldn't be case fed on another fourm. It was just plastic inside 1" box tube.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUdzxJenkX0

It's pretty simple but IIRC GW had to make the one for the pro 2000 turn as it fed. You might PM him over at THR, he's a good guy and I bet will help you out.

[44Vaquero]

Bolted down and ready to run! Micro switches on order, until then manual control only. I am going to run 300 or 400 on Saturday morning and see how well it works?

~

[seagiant]

Hi,
Wow! That actually looks impressive!

I can't get over that cast iron Pro 1000!!!

Hmmm....maybe I NEED one???

I wouldn't mind seeing that rig in action!!!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

44,

Is that a Classic Cast Turret modified to become a Pro 1000? I remember you were talking about that project a good while back, but I went off the forum for a good bit and never saw it's fruition. Do you have a vid of it in operation?

[44Vaquero]

Yes, It is Dave!

The answer is it works like a dream, the 4 to 1 leverage really makes a huge difference! I don't think I posted a video of it in action. So I guess this weekend will kill 2 birds at once. Actually, it's very mundane in operation as the action is smooth and positive with little effort.

Seagiant, video coming this weekend!

[MaLar]

You could use a BBQ rotisserie motor! I have one I bought at the junk store.

[Ola]

How about this motor?

http://www.bebek.fi/kauppa/lisatiedot.php?&tuote_id=14330
(scroll down to find the electrical specifications in English)

[44Vaquero]

Ola,

that certainly looks like a good candidate, I noted that shat speed is listed as 32 RPM Max. It really needs to be controlled to around 8 to 12 RPM, so you will need to use some type of speed control/voltage regulator. I am not familiar with common currents and voltages in Finland or what is available? Speed controls are fairly common and cheap on e-bay.

[Ola]

44V: yes, there is a regulator available from the same source. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks!

[44Vaquero]

The Micro-Switches have arrived! 8 for $5.00!!! I should have more than enough for the next few projects too!

So now back to the fun part cutting all the shrink tubing and splicing the switch into the harness!

~

[cigarman454]

That is very creative. Great job.

[44Vaquero]

Micro-Switch installed in the drop tube!

152073

I have not figured out how to adjust the tension just right yet? But it works, it just takes 3 cases to trip past the whisker.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Micro-Switch installed in the drop tube!

152073

I have not figured out how to adjust the tension just right yet? But it works, it just takes 3 cases to trip past the whisker.

Try adding a metal clamp and mount the switch with that. It's tough to get good adjustment on a micro switch without something to mount it to where you can move it back and forth a bit to get a good setting.

[jmorris]

An inch and a half of aluminum or brass wrapped around a drill bit the same diameter of the tube with something slightly smaller than the switch, clamped in a vise will work. Keep the slot as long as you want, just snugg it down when you have it where you want it.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/IMG00341-20101213-1504.jpg

You can get fancy with cheap proximity sensors <$10 from eBay but limit switches are easy enough.

[44Vaquero]

Jmorris and Dave,

Thanks for the solution!!!! I really did not expect an answer before I got home from my evening job! Simple, elegant and cheap! I love it!

I did contemplate optical sensors, however in keeping with the theme "Dirt Cheap" a 65 cent limit switch won hands down! Maybe on my next build we will move up town to more sophisticated sensors.

I am actually very pleased with how well this project is performing at a fraction of the cost of a Hornady or Dillion case feeder! After looking at several different designs on the net I figured there has to be simpler "Bare Bones" way to build a auto loader.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

And don't be afraid to bend/shape the metal arm/tab on the microswitch with a pair of needle nose pliers to get it where you want it. That's why it's made of thin, easy to bend metal.

[6bg6ga]

One could use a ebay motor with speed control to take place of the motor in question with less cash being spent.

[6bg6ga]

I'll try to provide pictures and PN's


Note to moderator...

I am unable to either post a picture of anything or change a post.

[6bg6ga]

Can't supply you any pictures because I'm unable to post them but I will provide you with a discription of the motors and speed controllers I am using to build my case annealer. Ebay has a 12V 25RPM stabilvolt motor for $8.13 and you combine this with a PWM speed controller with digital display and switch at a cost of $8.76 for a total price less than the store bought regulator motor. This motor has more than enough torque and the ability to control the speed will be of value with different size brass.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

6bg6ga,

What's the power supply to feed the speed controller? 12/24V 10A?

[44Vaquero]

6bg6ga, Is this the motor you are speaking of?

152129

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Torque-12V-DC-25-RPM-Gear-Box-Stabilivolt-Electric-Motor-Replacement/161320380766?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D33867%26meid%3D259a2527f850427497c7b35d0d0 6b5c4%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3D pp%26sd%3D161320380766
It's a good choice! 25 RPM will need a speed control as you stated. You will also need to fashion a shaft with a set screw etc? The motor used in this build has a shaft that accepts a 5mm Allen wrench.

The case feeder needs to run around 7 to 10 RPM (as tested this build drops 48 +/- 2 cases in 2 min). As I stated earlier this build was "dirt cheap" and I had 2 motors sitting on the shelf I also happen to like the fact that they are enclosed in a plastic housing.
152131

I applaud you and others, who are helping to create new options for similar builds and look forward to seeing fresh new clever designs! This is exactly what I wanted this build to do, to me the 150 to 300 $$$ cost of store bought units is crazy and the current crop of DIY builds were just basic copies of the store bought units.

[44Vaquero]

6bg6ga, Is this the speed control?

152134

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6-30V-12V-24V-MAX-8A-MOTOR-PWM-SPEED-CONTROLLER-WITH-DIGITAL-DISPLAY-SWITCH-/131147152783?hash=item1e88fabd8f:g:DjcAAOxyUgtTLPu v

[6bg6ga]

6bg6ga, Is this the speed control?

152134

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6-30V-12V-24V-MAX-8A-MOTOR-PWM-SPEED-CONTROLLER-WITH-DIGITAL-DISPLAY-SWITCH-/131147152783?hash=item1e88fabd8f:g:DjcAAOxyUgtTLPu v


There is a sleeve available that is 8mm and has set screws. This will pair up fine with a 5/16 bolt that one could use as the center bolt in the case wheel.

Thanks for posting the pictures. I sent a PM to the moderator and with my luck I'll get banned for mentioning it.

[6bg6ga]

I mentioned the motor and speed controller only as a suggestion of another candidate I felt was worthy of using. The motor you used was also a great choice.

[6bg6ga]

2pcs 8 x 8mm Shaft Rigid Motor Wheel Coupling Coupler Aluminum Casing + Screws The above part is available on ebay and fits the ebay motor.

[6bg6ga]

Sorry for not being able to post a picture. Still not able to obtain a reason from moderators as to why I am not allowed to either edit or post pictures.

[skeettx]

Well, you can use photobucket or hunt101 and then post the img

Mike

[Smoke4320]

6bg6ga, Is this the motor you are speaking of?

152129

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Torque-12V-DC-25-RPM-Gear-Box-Stabilivolt-Electric-Motor-Replacement/161320380766?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D33867%26meid%3D259a2527f850427497c7b35d0d0 6b5c4%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3D pp%26sd%3D161320380766
It's a good choice! 25 RPM will need a speed control as you stated. You will also need to fashion a shaft with a set screw etc? The motor used in this build has a shaft that accepts a 5mm Allen wrench.

The case feeder needs to run around 7 to 10 RPM (as tested this build drops 48 +/- 2 cases in 2 min). As I stated earlier this build was "dirt cheap" and I had 2 motors sitting on the shelf I also happen to like the fact that they are enclosed in a plastic housing.
152131

I applaud you and others, who are helping to create new options for similar builds and look forward to seeing fresh new clever designs! This is exactly what I wanted this build to do, to me the 150 to 300 $$$ cost of store bought units is crazy and the current crop of DIY builds were just basic copies of the store bought units.

I bought 2 of the same above 25 RPM motors off ebay to build a case annealer .. I can tell you right away they have very little torque.. slightest pressure and they stop turning

[44Vaquero]

So many people asked if I had "Vacuum Formed" the shell plate for the collator, I got to thinking "Can I"? Well here is my 1st attempt at Vacuum forming and it actually turned out pretty good! It's made from 1/8 ABS.

152522 152592
Now to trim and cut the notches!

[bogorman]

Another possibility for a motor is the turntable motor out of a microwave, I have one I pulled out of a junker for the same project sometime when I have time. Turns real slow and seems to have quite a bit of torque

[LaPoint]

Try this AC gear motor from Surplus Center. Its about $10.00

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Merkle-Korff/15-RPM-120-VAC-MERKLE-KORFF-GEARMOTOR-5-1684.axd

[6bg6ga]

The only thing wrong this the above motor is the duty time. Its listed at 1 min.

The motor I listed is currently the one on the parts list circulating out there for this type of annealer. Have you tried it as a collator motor yet? It was a suggestion and not much is lost if it doesn't work. I would hold off until its known for certain that it won't work. A properly setup collator doesn't need a motor that has a lot of torque unless you plan on dumping 4 or 5 hundred cases in at once. I dump in about 100 at a shot in mine.

[6bg6ga]

Ebay

motor JGY370 will work and was proven in the crimson bullet collator design.

[44Vaquero]

6bg6ga (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?16210-6bg6ga),

Not only is this a proven motor! You left out a very important detail: This motor can be ordered in several different RPM ratings! that is a real plus!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC3V-6V-12V-24V-High-Torque-Turbo-Worm-Gearebox-Reduction-Gear-DC-Motor-JGY370-/331104268068?var=&hash=item4d175a2f24:m:mUdDOnIPJNlfcBD8buWNpIQ&vxp=mtr

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

6bg6ga (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?16210-6bg6ga),

Not only is this a proven motor! You left out a very important detail: This motor can be ordered in several different RPM ratings! that is a real plus!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC3V-6V-12V-24V-High-Torque-Turbo-Worm-Gearebox-Reduction-Gear-DC-Motor-JGY370-/331104268068?var=&hash=item4d175a2f24:m:mUdDOnIPJNlfcBD8buWNpIQ&vxp=mtr

I was looking at a very similar motor to this one today. I like the fact it has a nice flat, then has the shafted threaded for a screw to lock things down.

Here's a link to a to several on ebay at the only RPM the other link doesn't offer (8RPM) I can see. I'm amazed at how many of these cheap chinese motors are up for sale very cheaply shipped directly from China. Gotta give those folks credit, they know how to trade/do business.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gear+motor+12v+8RPM&rmvSB=true&_sop=12&_fspt=1&_mPrRngCbx=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.Xgear+moto rs+12v+8RPM.TRS1&_nkw=gear+motors+12v+8RPM&_sacat=0

In looking around in the ebay store of the earlier listed, I found these:
http://stores.ebay.com/WWX-Electronics/Shaft-Couplings-/_i.html?_fsub=7158688015

Those shaft couplers are cheap and would make it real easy to cut off the head of a bolt, insert smooth end into coupler, attach coupler to motor and threaded end of bolt could be used for one of those quick remove plastic wing nuts with brass threaded insert:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Threaded-Knobs-Thumb-Knobs-T-Knobs-with-1-4-20-Threaded-Insert-10-Pack-/161878731995?hash=item25b0b96cdb:g:cHkAAOSwd0BV1c1 3

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

So many people asked if I had "Vacuum Formed" the shell plate for the collator, I got to thinking "Can I"? Well here is my 1st attempt at Vacuum forming and it actually turned out pretty good! It's made from 1/8 ABS.

152522 152592
Now to trim and cut the notches!

44, you sucked me in again. Where did you get the plastic and where did you get the vacuum/heat setup? That looks simple, easy and slicker than cat boogers when they got a cold.

[44Vaquero]

DaveinFB,

I will try to answer your questions in order:

1/8 ABS from Laired Plastics (can be ordered in 24x24 sheets from on-line supplier)

Vacuum Box is home made 3/4 inch MDF

Vacuum is supplied by the good old Kirby Vac

The kitchen oven provided the heat

(Be prepared to drill lots and lots of holes)

[mikeORB]

Looks like a good project for my new Dillon 550

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

44, of course, your answers generated more questions:), in red in the quote:


DaveinFB,

I will try to answer your questions in order:

1/8 ABS from Laired Plastics (can be ordered in 24x24 sheets from on-line supplier)
Found them, thank you.

Vacuum Box is home made 3/4 inch MDF
Nice and inexpensive. What did you use for dimentions? 2' X 2'?

Vacuum is supplied by the good old Kirby Vac
Did you find this to be plenty of vacuum? I was looking at using my old shop vacuum. Our house vacuum is a hoover and while it works well, it has quite a bit of age and the exterior cords are worn from my wife rough housing it around. She's non-mechanical and if it gets stuck, her approach is to immediately apply more force.:killingpc

The kitchen oven provided the heat
Lovely thing about that, the kitchen oven is already paid for, don't have to buy another.:) What problems can you run into with using the kitchen oven? How long does the plastic need to be heated for good molding results?

(Be prepared to drill lots and lots of holes)
For the vacuum lid box? Is pegboard a bad idea? Or?

[6bg6ga]

6bg6ga (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?16210-6bg6ga),

Not only is this a proven motor! You left out a very important detail: This motor can be ordered in several different RPM ratings! that is a real plus!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC3V-6V-12V-24V-High-Torque-Turbo-Worm-Gearebox-Reduction-Gear-DC-Motor-JGY370-/331104268068?var=&hash=item4d175a2f24:m:mUdDOnIPJNlfcBD8buWNpIQ&vxp=mtr

Yes, I left out the important details about motor voltage and speed. I figured that those that could read would be amazed with the different speeds available.

[6bg6ga]

So many people asked if I had "Vacuum Formed" the shell plate for the collator, I got to thinking "Can I"? Well here is my 1st attempt at Vacuum forming and it actually turned out pretty good! It's made from 1/8 ABS.

152522 152592
Now to trim and cut the notches!


Very nicely done

[44Vaquero]

Davein FB,

The box I built is only 12x12x4 inches

A shop should provide more than enough vacuum (that's what most people use) I have an actual 2 cyl vacuum pump but it would require heat during use since it's volume is much smaller?

This disk was formed after 15 min @ 340 deg, I may need to be a little warmer? Further testing is required.

I actually drilled the holes in my disk form as mounted to the vacuum box. I have a frame assembly that holds the ABS in place in the oven and allows easy pick up for transfer to the Vacuum form. The frame is not removed until the ABS is cool to the touch.

Peg-board not so much! If you were making a sanding table sure. Forming 1/8 ABS appears to need holes in the actual form itself near any indention's and or rises in the surface features of the pattern?

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

44, more questions/comments in red:


Davein FB,

The box I built is only 12x12x4 inches
When I read this, I immediately realized this reduces the amount of surface area to suction, thereby reduces the amount of needed vacuum.

A shop should provide more than enough vacuum (that's what most people use) I have an actual 2 cyl vacuum pump but it would require heat during use since it's volume is much smaller?
I actually have two shop vacs, a big one and a small hand carry job. I think I'll try both at some point and report back when I have results.

This disk was formed after 15 min @ 340 deg, I may need to be a little warmer? Further testing is required.
Looked good to me, ready to trim. Was the plastic sagging? I've done some internet research on youtube and haven't really seen any clear "use this time/heat combo" information yet. Please keep us posted, I'm interested.

I actually drilled the holes in my disk form as mounted to the vacuum box. I have a frame assembly that holds the ABS in place in the oven and allows easy pick up for transfer to the Vacuum form. The frame is not removed until the ABS is cool to the touch.
Can you take some pictures? I'm having trouble clearly visualizing.

Peg-board not so much! If you were making a sanding table sure. Forming 1/8 ABS appears to need holes in the actual form itself near any indention's and or rises in the surface features of the pattern?
What size where the holes you made near the surface features on the pattern and how many? Perhaps more, of a small size, might work better?

[44Vaquero]

I used a 7/64 drill bit.

Yes, the plastic will sag.

It's not so much the surface area as it is the cubic inches in the box that need to be evacuated in order provide suction at the holes? Bigger equals faster rise to vacuum.

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I cut the ABS in squares and mount it in the round frame for heating and forming and trim the excess ltr.

[6bg6ga]

I was looking at a very similar motor to this one today. I like the fact it has a nice flat, then has the shafted threaded for a screw to lock things down.

Here's a link to a to several on ebay at the only RPM the other link doesn't offer (8RPM) I can see. I'm amazed at how many of these cheap chinese motors are not up for sale very cheaply shipped directly from China. Gotta give those folks credit, they know how to trade/do business.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gear+motor+12v+8RPM&rmvSB=true&_sop=12&_fspt=1&_mPrRngCbx=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.Xgear+moto rs+12v+8RPM.TRS1&_nkw=gear+motors+12v+8RPM&_sacat=0

In looking around in the ebay store of the earlier listed, I found these:
http://stores.ebay.com/WWX-Electronics/Shaft-Couplings-/_i.html?_fsub=7158688015

Those shaft couplers are cheap and would make it real easy to cut off the head of a bolt, insert smooth end into coupler, attach coupler to motor and threaded end of bolt could be used for one of those quick remove plastic wing nuts with brass threaded insert:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Threaded-Knobs-Thumb-Knobs-T-Knobs-with-1-4-20-Threaded-Insert-10-Pack-/161878731995?hash=item25b0b96cdb:g:cHkAAOSwd0BV1c1 3

I ordered a 12vdc 10 RPM motor that I will use with a speed controller. Other collators I have build seem to be in need of some control because different sized cases need different rpm's in order to effectively fill my drop tube. This motor is a lot nicer and easier to use that the motor I purchased a few years ago.

The threaded knobs and the couplers will bring any diy bult to a hiigher platoe.

[44Vaquero]

I will be making these available for sale! They are designed to fit inside a 2 gallon bucket sold by Home Depot. 5.56 is the 1st other sizes will follow shortly.

$16.00 +S&H Includes a back plate, spacer disk and vacuum molded shell plate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rmXH8rVzvE

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

44Vaquero,

Those are real nice, I'm going to have to have one, no doubt. Especially since I have my motors, power supply ordered and 2 gallon bucket is on the shelf behind me right now.:)

[44Vaquero]

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger-69955.html

This makes a great power supply for any 12 volt project @ $5.99 this weekend!

[3jimbo3]

Well I guess I'm going to have to try this one. I am suppose to get three weeks off for Christmas and I'm looking for projects to try. My wife done said I get two days in the house, the rest of the time I had better be in the shop.....
I love her:bigsmyl2:

[Pablo 5959]

Nice job.
Here's my do it yourselfer. I posted this around the first of the year.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?270152-30-00-DIY-case-feeder.
Ive been working on mods for rifle, but I'm not sure if I want to go progressive rifle loading at this point.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

44Vaquero,

I received the three motors I spoke about in the mail today and the adapters as well. The motors are a nice size, very compact, about 1 1/2" wide by about 2 1/2" long. The only thing I don't like about them is they mount with Metric M3 bolts. I have those on order now (wish I had done a closer reading of the specs/pictures) and seen this to start with. I've also ordered plastic spacers & nuts.

The motors I ordered were 24V and 12RPM, but will run at lower and slightly higher voltages, allowing them to have variable RPM's for different sized brass and the higher voltage allows for higher torque to help the little motor handle brass. I've also ordered a regulator with adjustment on it. Both were really cheap and of course, chinese.

The only thing I don't like about the motor is the very small solder lugs they placed on it, which limits wire size to the "signal" gauge sizes for the most part. I'll start making up a wireloom as soon as I finish building the case feeder mods for rifle I've started.

[Ola]

THANK YOU 44Vaquero!!

I finished my "dirt cheap case feeder" yesterday! I stole your basic idea but in some details I just had to figure it out my self.. F.e. making the collator plate from plexi-class was a PITA!! And the micro-switch.. took me whole evening getting it right..

Because of these hick ups the machine is not pretty. But it works like a charm. Thank you very much!

[44Vaquero]

Ola,

Congratulations on your build!! Post a few pics if you can? The micro switch is a nice touch but not needed a simple flip switch works well too.

Yes, the shell plates are a pain, that's why I started making and selling the vacuum formed ABS plates for people wanting to build a case feeder!

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[kmk1012]

Looks like I may have another project ahead of me!

[Drew P]

How much for a case plate? I might pick one up for 45acp.

In in the spirit of the thread I thought I would mention that poly cutting boards are a cheap way to buy thick poly material. I got one off amazon to make a bullet collator. Thrift stores too. Or moms kitchen. I'm sure she won't recognize it after you're done with it now.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanton-Trading-2-Inch-Cutting-Board/dp/B0032AM0BC/ref=sr_1_10?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1455859916&sr=1-10&keywords=Cutting+board&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4785802011

[Ola]

Ok, some pictures. With the shell plate I did all the mistakes possible.. and you can see it :)
In the picture there is some masking tape, because 3 of the slots were still too deep, so I fixed them with Plastic Padding chemical metal...

Also those paddles.. this is the solution nro 3 I have tried. The 2 earlier ones were mistakes.
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The machine I decided to use 2 buckets. The outer one works as a "frame" that protects the motor etc. I don't know if it's a good idea or not :)

[Ola]

The micro switch is a nice touch but not needed a simple flip switch works well too.

IMO automatic power-off is a must in a device like this. Micro switch is quite difficult to mount, so a easier solution would be nice.

Has anyone tried a proximity switch? If so, what kind? Where did you buy it?

[44Vaquero]

Drew P,

PM sent!

If you are on Face Book, join The Lee Reloading and Casting Equipment Group. I have a build album posted there as well as a list of suggested parts.

I will be posting similar here eventually, but the posting on FB has kept me fairly busy. January and February are my busiest time of year for my day job!

[44Vaquero]

Ola,

That's actually a fairly good job! Do you care to guess how many disks I scrapped making the patterns for the ones I sell?.......

The answer is 7! Even as an experienced wood worker with the proper tools and building my own vacuum table too!! Getting it right on the 1st try is pretty decent challenge! That's why I decided to sell a few!

The bucket in a bucket is an interesting idea to cover the mechanical's.

[Ola]

Ola,

That's actually a fairly good job! Wow, Thanks! :-P

It's UGLY, but it works.. Well, it has to work because I will NOT give up. I have spent so much time fixing one problem after another.. :oops:

btw: I have couple of tips if some one without the right tools decides to use the plexi-class as a material ;)

[44Vaquero]

Ola,

Feel free to post those tips! I hate working with plexi!!

My proto-type took longer to build than the MKII! The MkII was assembled in about an hour!

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[Ola]

Ok. Here is the first one.

When cutting plexi with power tools: speed + low pressure + dull (drill, saw, what ever). The idea is to make the plexi MELT. If you try to cut it with sharp tool, eventually the tool will get stuck and chip or break the plexi.

F.e. the slots at the edge of the shell plate: I drilled a 1/10" guide hole and then slowly pushed a suitable size grinding stone (https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=941) through. The rotation speed of the grinding stone can not be too high. ( Use protective classes: high speed melted plexi will be flying around!)

Hand tools, like small teeth saws, files, etc. are all usable and recommended if you have the patience..

[Ola]

The second one:

If you are using the "wrong tools", you WILL chip or crack the plexi at some point. It is not the end of the world!! It can be fixed. 2-component clue seems to work very well if you can find all the pieces..

If you need to fill, Chemical metal or class-fibre filling work very well.

[Ola]

I just ordered a new motor and decided to include a FUSE in to my case feeder...:mad:

[omegatacticalsupply]

Super creative - well done!

[Beebee]

I think i need to move this project higher on my to do list. My problem is the honey do list never gets any shorter.

[Ola]

I just ordered a new motor and decided to include a FUSE in to my case feeder...:mad:
Ok, the new motor arrived and the fuse is there protecting the new motor. The most important thing: I learned something. There is a reason why the tube is NOT round where the micro-switch is. IF you'll include a micro-switch in your case feeder, remember to choose/ make/ form a rectangular tube for that..

[44Vaquero]

I am still making and selling the vacuum molded shell plates for those in the States that wish to build their own case feeder. PM me for details if interested?

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[Ola]

Ok, now I have used the Dirt Cheap Case Feeder enough to tell my initial opinion.

Building is pretty easy if one has the tools for making the shell plate and the patience to make the micro-switch work. Everything else is quite straight forward. When those two problems are solved, this feeder works like a charm. Mine has been running for a short time now and I have a positive problem of running out of empties.

I recommend this project to anyone who enjoys tinkering and wants to save some money (hundreds of dollars/euros even if you buy all the components "as new").

[HankAz]

Bringing up an old thread. Does it matter on the spacing between the bottom of the bucket and the shell plate? I've not found it anywhere.