Glock experts needed here for question

[6bg6ga]

I have a Glock model 23 40 cal and wish to shoot some 9mm in it. I have seen aftermarket barrels that one can purchase and drop in place of the original Glock 40 cal barrel. This solves the question of which barrel for me. My question is which magagine one would use in place of the stock model 23 magazine. This information would be much appreciated. I have looked around but haven't been able to find out which mag as of yet.

[Maximumbob54]

17 mag.

[quietmike]

19 would be a flush fit. 17 will be extended, but both will work.

[6bg6ga]

Ok, so I need a model 19 mag to be flush. Thanks

[6bg6ga]

149697

[6bg6ga]

Which barrel? Lone wolf or Storm Lake?

[bobthenailer]

KKM- first choice !
Storm Lake- second
Lone Wolf- thrid
My #1 shootin buddy has had all 3 brands barrels for the glock is several calibers and he prefers KKM barrels .

[Maximumbob54]

Sorry, yes, the 23 is the mid size so the 19 mag is the direct swap with the 17 being slightly extended. I would never pay Storm Lake, KKM, Bar Sto, or any other price for a Glock barrel when Lone wolf costs so much less and works just fine. Pretty much the only reason I wouldn't buy a Lone Wolf is if they just don't offer something and if it's for a Glock then I bet they make it.

[FergusonTO35]

I love the Storm Lake tubes I have for my 19 and 26. Very accurate with boolits and if you have any problems or concerns they take care of you fast.

[Combat Diver]

Besides the 9mm barrel and magazine just beaware you may also need a 9mm extractor. Some do and others don't. So shoot it and see.


CD

[6bg6ga]

I had the chance to shoot a 23 with a lone wolf barrel and its functionality and accuracy were great. I ordered a lone wolf barrel this morning. Thanks for the help.

[6bg6ga]

Received my Lone Wolf barrel friday and it fits perfectly. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Thanks for the help.

[historicfirearms]

You might want to try your 40 cal mag first before you buy a 9mm mag. My 40 mags worked good, not great, with 9mm. Good enough for practice, but I wouldn't trust my life to it.

[dougader]

Just be aware that the LW barrels have a short, "match" chamber. Factory ammo should all fit and function fine, but some handloads that fit and fire in your stock Glock barrel will not chamber in the LW barrel. You need to tailor your handloads around the short throat in the LW barrel.

You can use the barrel (out of the gun) as a go-no go gauge to test your loaded rounds. Make up a dummy that drops in with no hangups and then load your rounds to those specs and you'll be golden.

You can also pay LW $10 or so to have them ream your throat a touch to handle a dummy/sample of your standard handloads; just send the barrel back with a dummy round.

[dualsport]

You might want to try your 40 cal mag first before you buy a 9mm mag. My 40 mags worked good, not great, with 9mm. Good enough for practice, but I wouldn't trust my life to it.
Yup. The .40 mag will work with 9mm.

[43PU]

As a glock armour I need to tell you, you also have to change your ejector and extractor when you go from a 40 to a 9mm

[Ed_Shot]

I have both the .40 and 9MM Lone Wolf barrels for my G22. Function is perfect and accuracy is outstanding and the .40 and 9MM shoot to the same POI. I use G17 mags for 9MM. I load for several 9MM's and use my CZ 75B chamber as the standard .... works perfectly for LW barrels. I don't know how many K's of 40 and 9MM my G22 has devoured with the same ejector and extractor that came from the factory.

[.452dia]

I just recently bought a Lone Wolf barrel for my Gen 2 Glock 23. Love it, dropped it in and shot 200 rounds of PMC Ball ammo with out a hitch. I did buy a couple of Glock 19 Mags but the stock extractor is working fine. I had heard that some extractor would throw the brass back in your face but so far mine throws it about 2 to 3 feet to my right. I'm happy with it!

[6bg6ga]

As a glock armour I need to tell you, you also have to change your ejector and extractor when you go from a 40 to a 9mmI'm sorry but I will disagree 100% with you. The Lone Wolf barrel has been designed so that the you do not have to change the ejector and extractor when you use the "Conversion" barrel. Its design has eliminated the need to change these parts.I did purchase "Glock 19 Mags" because I wanted the operation to be glitch free. I put a lot of rounds thru it this weekend anything from puff loads to max loads. Everything fed,fired, and ejected without any problems.

[finattic]

Do you have to change the barrel on a 9 mm to shoot cast boolits??? I know glock says change it on the 40 and I did that with a lone wolf. brother in law purchased a 9 and since I have a master caster and molds just wondering if the stock barrel is ok or not.

Thanks

[6bg6ga]

Do you have to change the barrel on a 9 mm to shoot cast boolits??? I know glock says change it on the 40 and I did that with a lone wolf. brother in law purchased a 9 and since I have a master caster and molds just wondering if the stock barrel is ok or not.

Thanks

Glock says not to shoot lead in any of their barrels. There are threads here that discuss lead in the Glock. I would say to read these threads and make up your own mind. I've seen evidence both pro and con. If it were me I would spend the $99 bucks and pop in a Lone Wolf barrel and be 100% safe.

[sandman228]

im fairly new to glocks in the past few months ive bought a 43 ,a 19.and a 22 . I researched the hell out of weather I could shoot lead out of factory barrels or not . ive watched vids that say you can ive read articles that say not to . I know the shop I bought my 43 from very strongly recommended not to shoot lead from it . I figured for all the more the lone wolf barrels cost it wasn't worth risking anything . I bought a 9mm extended ported barrel for my g19 and also bought a 40 cal extended ported for my g22 for about 100$ each .the only reason I haven't bought 1 for my 43 yet is because lone wolf don't make 1 for it yet but I live chatted with someone on there sight he said it was coming but couldn't give me an eta. I was also toying with the notion of buying a lone wolf 9 inch target barrel for either my g 19 or my g 22 but im kind of wondering with the extra velocity the bullet will pick up because of the longer barrel will I just end up with lead smeared from 1 end to the other. but back to the lead from a glock I agree with 6bg ,spend the 100 bucks and buy a lone wolf barrel .

[FergusonTO35]

I have a foot in both camps here as I shoot boolits with both Glock and Storm Lake in my 19 and 26. I carry these guns with OEM barrels, mostly so that I at least don't lose my extra barrel if the gun gets lost or pirated. For the odd range session to stay in practice I don't bother to change the barrel. Lee 356-120-TC slugs sized to .356 with Tac-X lube at ~1020 fps are as accurate as factory j-words and leave no leading behind. They do leave a coating of powder and lube fouling, which of course doesn't cause any problems. If I'm planning to shoot quite a bit of boolits in an extended range session I use the Storm Lake barrels. With boolits, they are noticeably more accurate than OEM. I think the slower twist and sharp cut rifling really helps here.

My Glock 42 .380 is a real boolit shooting machine. I feed it the Lee 356-102-2R sized to .356 with Tac-X at a chrono'd 1000 fps. Easy to shoot, very accurate, no leading. Even if there was an aftermarket barrel available for it I don't feel the need to buy one. One thing I notice is that the rifling of the 42 has a somewhat different shape than my other pistols. The groove portion appears to have a sharper profile where it meets the land.

[garym1a2]

My Glock21SF shoots great with lubed cast lead in OEM barrel. My G22 and G35 don't shoot cast lead without leading very fast with OEM barrels. Even painted bullets don't work in my G35. Yet painted bullets work well in my G19 with OEM barrel.
I have storm lake barrels in my G22 both 9mm and 40S&W. In my G35 I have KKM in 40 and Lone wolf in 9mm. I can't tell the difference in accuracy between barrels except I shoot the G35 best, G19 second best.
P.S. I have never changed my extractor nor ejector in my G22 or G35 with 9mm barrels.

[FergusonTO35]

The .40 S&W is problematic when it comes to pressure. What kind of charges are you using?

[garym1a2]

4gr of BE with lee 175gr TC. Also 3.8gr of WST. Same loads are great in my Storm lake G22 and KKM G35. These are very soft loads as they where devloped for USPSA minor power factor (Wimpy).

The .40 S&W is problematic when it comes to pressure. What kind of charges are you using?

[W.R.Buchanan]

As a glock armour I need to tell you, you also have to change your ejector and extractor when you go from a 40 to a 9mm

I'm sorry but who told you this? Whomever gave you the course needs to be slapped.

I had another Glock Armorer a few days ago tell me that cast boolits would blow up a Glock in just a few shots. We all know better than that. He worked in a gun shop I used to go in so he was definitely an authority. Operative point being, "used to go in."

But I'm pretty sure this is the same guy who did the drop test on Gen 4 Glocks for the CA DOJ and flunked them for firing when dropped. Anyone who has had the slide off and actually has some understanding of the mechinism knows this can't happen unless the firing pin safety is disabled. But you can't buy a Gen 4 Glock in CA because of it.

I wish that there was only One Standardized Glock Armorers course available to the public, and the same guy gave it to everyone. There are way too many given by people that don't know what they are talking about, and as such too much misinformation is put forth into the Internetisphere to be absorbed by the less informed.

This bugs me!

I highly recommend that anyone NOT preface their Glock posts with the words "Glock Armorer," as it is almost a guarantee of incompetence.

Sorry if I offend but this particular subject bugs me as I have several Glocks and I work on all of them and I never have any problems with them and I am NOT a Certified Glock Armorer. I simply read the instruction sheet that came with the guns.

Randy

[TCLouis]

I can easily see why Glock is teaching a "Glock Armorer" to change the parts.

They like many corporations do things for liability reasons when practical proves it may not be needed.

[6bg6ga]

Glock like any other company has a necessity to cover their butt. I had passed on the Glock armorer comment simply because I didn't want to start WWIII here. Since Randy has opened the door so to speak I simply cannot resist the urge to comment.

IF and I will repeat the word IF the barrel was replaced with a barrel that had not been engineered with the problem of the extractor factored in then it would be necessary to replace the extractor. Lone Wolf for one HAS engineered their barrel so that an extractor exchange isn't necessary. I cannot comment on the other barrels but the comments would suggest the same for them.

Lets talk lead even thou my thread here isn't on the lead subject so to speak. Lead has been used successfully in many many Glocks without them blowing up and yet Glock says you simply cannot use lead in them. For me lead that isn't pure lead works in my Glock with a stock barrel. Pure lead in my experience can lead a build up and possible problems.

Another comment from the world of Glock.... One should only use factory loaded rounds in any Glock and for that matter any firearm. Yet another way to shift any blame to the gun owner that wishes to hand load their ammunition.

A 40 cal comment.... That the 40 cal is a problematic round that easily blows up if not loaded properly. I've seen Glocks blown up and this has always stemmed from an improper crimp that didn't retain the bullet properly in the case. Several firings with a full magazine resulted in the bullet moving too far back into the case thus causing excessive pressure and a blow out.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I can easily see why Glock is teaching a "Glock Armorer" to change the parts.

They like many corporations do things for liability reasons when practical proves it may not be needed.

The whole problem here is that Glock is NOT the only one teaching these courses. There are "know it all's" involved.

I could take one at Front Sight, or I could take one from the local guy who told me you can't shoot lead boolits. There is a world of difference. And that's my point.

I have a video course from AGI Gun Training Institute. It is excellent but 90% of the polishing and light mods they talk about are absolutely useless.

I have another called "Making Glocks Rock." It is more of the same.

There just isn't that much that you can do to better a Glock Pistol any significant amount. Shooting, cleaning and lubricating are the best things you can do.

Neither of these well regarded and reviewed video courses say anything about ammo.

The myth about Glock Barrels and Lead Boolits comes down to "boolit fit." If its right they work, and if it's not they lead,,, just like any other barrel in any other gun.

The fact that the rifling lands are curved instead of sharp edged makes not one bit of difference. Both will lead if the boolit fit is not right.

I have a Storm Lake Barrel for my G35. It is not reliable so I don't use it. The stock barrels are.

I don't shoot that many Cast Boolits in either my G35 or G21SF any more as I can buy plated bullets cheap and they are a lot less work for loading in 500 round batches which is how I load them. Making 500 boolits is a lot of work!

This has been covered ad nauseum here so I won't go any further.

Randy

[seaboltm]

As a glock armour I need to tell you, you also have to change your ejector and extractor when you go from a 40 to a 9mm

As has been mentioned, nope. I have ran many thousands of rounds through my Glock 23 with a Storm Lake barrel with no change in internal parts. 40 mags work fine, but being paranoid, I use G19 mags for carry. I also have, ahum, "several" Glock 18 33 round mags.

[6bg6ga]

As has been mentioned, nope. I have ran many thousands of rounds through my Glock 23 with a Storm Lake barrel with no change in internal parts. 40 mags work fine, but being paranoid, I use G19 mags for carry. I also have, ahum, "several" Glock 18 33 round mags.

I also purchased the Glock 19 mags just to be on the safe side.

[garym1a2]

Lots of things you can do to make a Glock work better,my G21, G22, G35 all carry True Glo Night sites, my G19 carries a Amerigo night sites. I also change all the guide rods to steel as my G22 broke one when I first got it. I also change all of them to 3.5 lb connectors as the stock triggers need improvement.I had trigger return springs break on both my G21SF and my G22 after over 10K rounds each so I make that an annual item to replace. In my 40's I find my KKM and storm lake barrels to be much better than Glock barrels as the Glock barrels in 40 lead easy and way over work the brass. With the G19,21 and 30 the stock barrels work fine and are quite accurate. The G21SF with stock barrel being the best lead eating machine I have.
Only my G30S is totally stock as its my car gun.


The whole problem here is that Glock is NOT the only one teaching these courses. There are "know it all's" involved.

I could take one at Front Sight, or I could take one from the local guy who told me you can't shoot lead boolits. There is a world of difference. And that's my point.

I have a video course from AGI Gun Training Institute. It is excellent but 90% of the polishing and light mods they talk about are absolutely useless.

I have another called "Making Glocks Rock." It is more of the same.

There just isn't that much that you can do to better a Glock Pistol any significant amount. Shooting, cleaning and lubricating are the best things you can do.

Neither of these well regarded and reviewed video courses say anything about ammo.

The myth about Glock Barrels and Lead Boolits comes down to "boolit fit." If its right they work, and if it's not they lead,,, just like any other barrel in any other gun.

The fact that the rifling lands are curved instead of sharp edged makes not one bit of difference. Both will lead if the boolit fit is not right.

I have a Storm Lake Barrel for my G35. It is not reliable so I don't use it. The stock barrels are.

I don't shoot that many Cast Boolits in either my G35 or G21SF any more as I can buy plated bullets cheap and they are a lot less work for loading in 500 round batches which is how I load them. Making 500 boolits is a lot of work!

This has been covered ad nauseum here so I won't go any further.

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

Gary: on my G35 and 21SF I did a bigger Mag Release, a G35 slide release, and Dawson Precision Sights.

My G35 also has a magwell, and I just installed a Burris Fastfire III on it.

I have done trigger jobs, all of which wore out in short order. I have used lower strength fire control springs all of which failed and caused light strikes. The Storm Lake Barrel was a complete disaster as it was not even close to reliable.

I use all 5 lb connectors as the 3.5 lb ones make me mash the trigger. I have found just shooting the guns breaks them in nicely and there is little need to polish anything. They seem to run best with the least amount of maintenance and problems with the majority of stock parts in place. I see no purpose for aftermarket internal parts.

The sights definitely need to go, but that would never affect reliability.

The other thing I do is completely deburr the gun from one end to the other. This includes paring down the trigger safety until it is flush with the trigger face when depressed all the way. This makes it so you don't wear a divot in your finger when shooting a lot.

I started with my G35, but I shoot the G21SF best.

Randy

[6bg6ga]

I'll agree with the sight change. Deburring not necessary and can contribute to a possible unsafe condition. Trigger in my opinion should be left at stock simply because the aftermarket and non-stock items either fail or wear out. The Glock trigger sucks in my opinion simply because I cannot get used to the feel as opposed to a good 3lb 1911 trigger. I went with the Lone Wolf barrel simply because of my exposure to it with friends having them. Never saw a Lone Wolf barrel have problems. My personal experience with having the Model 23 drop in 9mm barrels has proven its accurate and feeds what I send it with the 9mm model 19 mags. The so called model 23 magazine comment that the 40 cal magazine will feed 9mm has proven to me thru trial that it doesn't work in my gun and I seriously doubt that it will work in other model 23's with ANY reliability.

[garym1a2]

I do not mess with the trigger safety parts at all. When I had gotten the G35 it had a screw added to shorten the trigger reset. Problem is this made the trigger safety never to reset. I took that out right away.
But, I really like the ghost 3.5 connector with stock trigger return springs.
Gary: on my G35 and 21SF I did a bigger Mag Release, a G35 slide release, and Dawson Precision Sights.

My G35 also has a magwell, and I just installed a Burris Fastfire III on it.

I have done trigger jobs, all of which wore out in short order. I have used lower strength fire control springs all of which failed and caused light strikes. The Storm Lake Barrel was a complete disaster as it was not even close to reliable.

I use all 5 lb connectors as the 3.5 lb ones make me mash the trigger. I have found just shooting the guns breaks them in nicely and there is little need to polish anything. They seem to run best with the least amount of maintenance and problems with the majority of stock parts in place. I see no purpose for aftermarket internal parts.

The sights definitely need to go, but that would never affect reliability.

The other thing I do is completely deburr the gun from one end to the other. This includes paring down the trigger safety until it is flush with the trigger face when depressed all the way. This makes it so you don't wear a divot in your finger when shooting a lot.

I started with my G35, but I shoot the G21SF best.

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

6bg: By Deburring,,, I mean removing any mould flash edges from the plastic. Both my guns had sharp edges that had to go.

As far as the trigger goes, they will never be like a 1911, however if you shoot a Glock at a pistol class where you shoot 800 rounds in 4 days you will master the trigger. One thing about them,,, They are the same for every shot and pretty much the same from gun to gun so if you're laying on the floor in a bank and a Glock comes sliding across the floor to you,,, you won't have to wonder what the trigger will be like.

Randy

[6bg6ga]

6bg: By Deburring,,, I mean removing any mould flash edges from the plastic. Both my guns had sharp edges that had to go.

As far as the trigger goes, they will never be like a 1911, however if you shoot a Glock at a pistol class where you shoot 800 rounds in 4 days you will master the trigger. One thing about them,,, They are the same for every shot and pretty much the same from gun to gun so if you're laying on the floor in a bank and a Glock comes sliding across the floor to you,,, you won't have to wonder what the trigger will be like.

Randy

Deburring plastic flash edges wouldn't hurt reliability. Trying to duburr and or polish metal parts especially by the unskilled does cause problems. I realize the Glock trigger will never have the feel of a good 1911 trigger simply because of the engineering around the trigger. Have mastered the trigger but still don't care for it. Just an opinion.

[FergusonTO35]

My favorite setup for any Glock:
Steel front and rear OEM sights, or OEM plastic front and adjustable rear. The fixed plastic front and rear they come with always shoot very high for me and there is too much black above the white bar on the rear.
OEM Dot connector with all metal parts polished to a mirror shine and with a good coat of oil. Grooved face trigger replaced with smooth face if necessary.
Useless finger groove points (on guns so equipped) sanded down to gently rolling hills and a subtle texture applied.
Slight rounding of the bottom of the trigger guard on the right side if it digs into my middle finger.
If the OEM barrel doesn't like boolits then it gets replaced with a Storm Lake tube. Fortunately all three of mine do pretty good with boolits in the OEM barrel, although SL is still more accurate.

I've tried various connectors and find that the OEM dot connector in my 19 and 26 is best for me. I actually shoot rifles and pistols better with a firm trigger pull and no creep, the 3.5 and the Ghost Edge add too much creep. My 42 has a very stiff but almost completely creep free trigger. Too light a trigger pull or alot of creep makes my flinch problem worse so that is what I am going to stick with.