2009 Town and Country Brakes

[gsdelong]

I have a 2009 Town and Country I am getting ready to put brakes and rotors all the way around.

Right at 100,000 miles

Is there anything I should be concerned about other than the rotors and brake pads while I have everything apart?

Thank you in advance

[s mac]

Not familiar with a Dodge, but make sure whatever the calipers slide on, ie pins are free.

[mjwcaster]

Keep an eye one the wheel bearings.
Not sure if the 09 had issues, but the 2010 had a recall for them and it affected several years.
Only for areas in cold and snow, though.

I got to do the wheel bearings on my friends 2010, it was well past recall, mileage wise.
Have also done the brakes on it, don't remember anything special there.

The wheel bearings are actually the hub assembly, I shopped around and got it for ~$100 online (timken).
Also not a huge job, just need to beat on it to get it loose. Then beat it some more.

[gsdelong]

If it was your car would you do the bearings now?


Keep an eye one the wheel bearings.
Not sure if the 09 had issues, but the 2010 had a recall for them and it affected several years.
Only for areas in cold and snow, though.

I got to do the wheel bearings on my friends 2010, it was well past recall, mileage wise.
Have also done the brakes on it, don't remember anything special there.

The wheel bearings are actually the hub assembly, I shopped around and got it for ~$100 online (timken).
Also not a huge job, just need to beat on it to get it loose. Then beat it some more.

[Tackleberry41]

100k is a bit early for bearings, or should be. Not like its a honda and you have to take half the car apart to put rotors in it so might as well put bearings in it. Doubt you have to take much off to put on rotors and pads.

[Goatwhiskers]

JMHO: don't even think about turning the rotors, replace 'em if worn or damaged in any way. They're not expensive, and in the interest of weight reduction the originals are borderline of being too thin to turn when new, much less after 100K. GW

[osteodoc08]

Check the hoses and seals for leaking on the calipers. Make sure the slides are cleaned and greased. Crack open the bleed valves and push the piston in, don't force the fluid back through the abs system. Bleed all brakes and get new fluid throughout the system. New rotors, don't turn them. Should be fairly straight forward.

[Safeshot]

Just an opinion, I would replace all of the "brake hoses". Use the "best" disk brake pads (life time warranty). Flush the system thoroughly and refill with the BEST high temperature rated brake fluid (synthetic is nice also). Check all the metal brake lines for rust, corrosion, leaks, seepages or mechanical damage (dents or bent, kinks, "flat spots" or obstructions). Check the parking brake/emergency brake and adjustment. Use "antiseze" on all the wheel lug nuts and stud threads. Bleed the system throughly. You might consider a rebuilt or new master cylinder. That is the only other thing in the brake system (other than the calipers) likely to give you any trouble in the future. If you find any seepage or leakage at the calipers, or if they do not extend and retract easily, replace them with rebuilt or new calipers. Most new calipers have a "life time warranty" and do not cost much if any more than rebuilt.

[funnyjim014]

From a A tech from the armpit of the rustbelt, clean the hub surface of any rust ( if its not it will have excessive latteral runout and cause a brake pulsation). Clean caliper brackets of ALL rust under hardware. If the pads cant move problems will occure, ie rotor will rust over faster or pads wear faster. Thats about it. Dont worry about the fluid. If the calipers boots arnt torn and go in nice, good to go. And please NO antisize on lug studs. Makes a mess and not needed if u rotate tires

[Tackleberry41]

Replacing the master cylinder just because is a bit extreme. As is brake lines, I worked at various dealers for close to 7 yrs, it was really rare to replace brake lines, even then it was due to damage not rot. Only place I saw it done on a regular basis was the chain places, just looking to make a buck. Brake lines wont go bad in 100k miles. And 'lifetime' pads are pretty much the worst you can buy, they simply destroy the rotors vs wearing out the pads.

US cars are different than European. European cars it was rare to replace calipers, and we never machined rotors. They do not warp like US brands, a mercedes you got 1 set of pad replacement before they wore down and needed replaced. It was US brands we always had to replace calipers in, and constantly machine rotors, they would come out of the box and need machining. European brands, we just stuck em on. I had a VW rabbit w 250k miles on it, still had factory rotors and calipers. Where the pontiac I had required new calipers and rotors soon as the warranty ran out.

[leadman]

Anti-seize on the wheel studs changes the clamping force from torquing the nuts. Not recommended. Changing the fluid id because the standard fluids absorb moisture causing rust inside the brake components. Synthetic fluids are not supposed to have this issue.

[Dark Helmet]

Some Chrysler product minivans had /have an issue with the passenger side front brake hose. Its always available, the drivers side is a special order.

[funnyjim014]

I wish we never replace brake lines. Seems like every pre08chevy plow truck gets brake lines every 4 OR five years. After the first 10 or so its no deal. Brake rotors on any car here last 2yrs tops. The rust just builds up and the pitting too deepto machine within spec. Pads rot and frezze in the brackets causing the rotors to rot even faster.

[jrayborn]

I'm fixing to do front brakes on my wife's 06 Caravan this weekend. $100 for pads and new rotors and 2 windshield wipers. Not bad price-wise. This is the second set of pads and rotors I have changed and for the price, I'd never even try to get the rotors turned. In 85k miles this is the 3rd set so about every 40-45k miles. This is an around town car and she stops and goes a lot...

As for rust here in Maine, brake lines usually only last 8-10 years due to the stuff we put on the roads in winter. I will need to have a couple lines changed this year, and I have to patch both sides on the rocker panels for inspection. Still, beats a payment.

[mjwcaster]

Yes, area you live in makes a big difference.
I grew up and live in the Salt belt, so every job starts with lots of penetrating oil.
It was a real joy to work on my texas truck when I had it, just put a wrench on and turn the bolt, it would come right off and not break.

As far as brake fluid, I flush it every time I work on the brakes.
I have seen way too many cars that were never changed, and the black stuff that comes out does not resemble brake fluid in any form.
I think that is one major factor in caliper failure, bad brake fluid.
Costs $5-$10 or less and doesn't take much time if you are bleeding brakes any way.

Remember to use brand new fluid from a sealed bottle, brake fluid absorbs water.
I keep open containers around for flushing the system and then push it out with fresh fluid.

Now if I could only figure out why my wifes Hyundai eats rear drivers side calipers.
Smelled something last night when I got home, yep, that caliper is running hot again.
Calipers and rotors have been changed, parking brake cable isn't even hooked up (it froze up and took out the original caliper, she never uses the parking brake any way).
This will be the third or fourth caliper in as many years.

Maybe I need to take my own advice and get away from box store rebuilds, brake calipers for this car are about the only part that I use rebuilds on any more, too many issues with bad rebuilt starters/alternators and such, I just spend the extra money on new OEM.
Problem is new calipers are about 4x's as much for this car.
Keep it around a 2x price increase and I buy new every time.
I have even shopped around and got a new alternator from a local alternator shop for the price of a box store rebuild, or less.