Need input on 30-06 sizing

[BT8850]

I have some 30-06 brass that I received to reload for a friend and after trying sizing using 2 different sizing dies it is leaving a slight 'ridge' or 'bulge' near the web. There are 3 different head stamps in the mix, win rp and fc, and they all show the same problem, some more pronounced than others. The rifle they were fired out of is a 1909 Mauser from argentine I believe. I'm not brushed up on my mauser history but i'm just assuming that this thing probably has a pretty loose chamber to begin with because when before sizing, you could see that the brass is bellied out a some at the web, the worst case measured .472 at the 'bulge' area. Once sized, the cases are showing .464-.465 at this area. Its difficult to see in the picture but you can tell where the sizing die stopped, and you can feel a slight 'hump' in the case with your finger.

My question is, is this normal? Is it safe to reload them like this? Am I doing something wrong? I am new to rifle reloading, I've loaded .223rem and .300blk and have never seen this issue, though all of my brass for those calibers has come from current production rifles.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[Yodogsandman]

The original 1909 Argentine caliber is 7.65x53. Many times a so-so gunsmith will lengthen the chamber with a 30-06 reamer and call it good. I think this is what you have. It's probably safe but, accuracy will be lacking unless you're able to fire form and neck size your brass. Be sure to do a pound slug of your chamber. That hump you're feeling is where the original case stopped and the 30-06 reamer started the new cut.

The 1909 Argentine Mauser is one of the most sought after donor actions for conversions. A new barrel might be well worth your efforts.

[Mk42gunner]

Probably safe enough to use the bras a time or two, but if you (or he) keeps full length resizing, he can expect short case life.

Also the rifle should have a groove diameter of ~.312" if it was originally a 7.65x53.

Robert

[BT8850]

Thanks guys for the info, much appreciated. I kind of figured it wasn't originally a 30-06 but didn't really look into it because he claims it shoots very well for him. Everyone has their own opinion and expectations of accuracy though :roll: we plan on loading H4350 with 165g Hornady SST bullets, so we'll see how it turns out. Only planning on using a book starting charge, to be as safe as possible.

As far as it being an over size bore, I suppose slugging barrel is in order? I've only ever done pistol barrels and I've used my own cast boolits to do it. Some recommend round balls though, iirc, what do you all think? Would it be okay to slug it with a lee 155 .312 boolit cast from stick on ww or not? The mold drops them about .313


yodog, with regard to the pound cast, I do not have the supplies and I've never done a pound cast, though I have read about it. The owner of the rifle has mentioned that he doesn't care about reloading these a second time, so I figured might as well FL size and be done with it. Think we can get away with this one time FL size and reload and expect at least hunting worthy accuracy with the load mentioned above (depending on how oversize bore really is) ?

[Yodogsandman]

I'm sure the rifle is perfectly serviceable. You might get as many as 8-10 F/L loadings from the brass. I'd smoke the shoulder of some cases and set the sizing die to just kiss the datum of the shoulder for a precise fit. It will show as a line in the smokes carbon in the middle of the shoulder.

Just use normal caution working up loads from loading manuals. Check multiple trusted load resources before proceeding. It's a strong action, nothing scary going on there.

A pound slug is easily made by filling a case with lead, up to within about 1/8" of the top of the neck. Then fitting a pure lead (or very soft) cast bullet (LEE 312-160) on top and carefully running it into the chamber. Pound on it with a 1/4" (or so) solid steel rod from the muzzle end to expand the cast bullet to the size of your chamber. !/4" steel rods are available at Home Despots for about $3. Remove the slug and measure it. Note to clean the chamber and lightly oil it first and also tape the steel rod like a candy cane first to protect the bore.

As far as accuracy goes, once you have the chamber dimensions and fit your cast bullet to fit it right, that rifle will shoot just fine. Jacketed bullet accuracy should be right there with any factory rifle, too. You might consider using 7.62 bullets instead of .308 depending on what your slug shows.

[OnHoPr]

148971

Well, I am not sure on this one, but here is a 30-06 drawing. Specs down near the base are .470, if a chamber was .470 the cartridge would not chamber. Now I don't know how much spring back the case must have to provide for easy eckstraction from the actual chamber. Should the chamber in that area be close to .472 to provide easy chambering for the .470. Do the dies resize down (FL) to your respective .464-.465 for easy chambering in auto loaders, levers, and pumps which might get dirty chambers. I don't know all the dimensions, but chamber dimensions do differ. Maybe you could ask for a chamber casting. I have seen many brass look similar to that where above the web there was eckspansion, now whether it is out of spec or not, I don't know, (range, woods pick ups and maybe even my own).

What I do see is that slight blemish of a line about .040 - .050 up from the darker wed coloring. On the middle one you can see it more or less pronounced, on the top less so, and on the bottom none if hardly at all. Though my eyes are bad and the lighting in the pic may have something to do with it. It is darker and not bright which is more indicative to head separation. I just noticed it and it may not be of any concern. Though as mentioned above the rechambering may have gone a little deep. If it is for the same rifle I would just neck size. If you take a paint can opener or the bottle opener style like that or similar item that is about 4 or 5 inches long with that little hook bend on the end and slender enough to put in a .222 case mouth and sharpen it at the bent end down to a point. Take that and put it down the case mouth and lightly scratch the inside of the case with it from the web up about a half inch. If there is a felt groove or ridge like in that section then there may be a head space problem leading to head separation. If it is only minor just take it easy with the loads and neck size. It may be something else like the previous chambering blemish.

[Char-Gar]

It doesn't make any difference how loosey goosey the chamber is. A full length sized case should be take the fired cases back to spec.

My best guess, is the OP doesn't know how to adjust a full length sizing die to size the case all the way down.