PID Temp Control casting

[KenH]

Hello folks - today is the first time I cast bullets using PID control for the melting pot. I've got a Lee 10# pot, connected it to a PID setup I had for a toaster oven. Set temperature to 700ºF. With dropping cut sprues back into pot, it held right around 690ºF and with Lee aluminum dual cavity mold warmed up, it dropped nice shiny bullets with very little slag forming on top of lead.

I've cast thousands of bullets 40 yr ago with just a cast iron pot sitting on stove top with a ladle, but it was never this nice! :)

Ken H>

[georgerkahn]

Congrats and best wishes with your new PID! I was warned when I bought my first one that they "attract casters", and at least in my case, they were correct. My first was to replace broken thermostat on a Lyman Mould Master -- and I've since acquired two more, one on a new RCBS ProMelt pot, and the 2nd on my Star Lub-sizer's heater.
Yes -- they surely do make casting nice(r)! Happy for you!
gep

[Yodogsandman]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/icons/icon14.png Ta dah!

[KenH]

Thanks folks - it was easy in my case. I have a PID setup I used on a toaster oven for precise temp control for knifemaking. Easy matter to just plug Lee pot to PID controller with a TC in pot. Easy to do and works really good.

73 de Ken H>

[Mike W1]

My jury is out on whether I can make better bullets or not but I like being able to return to a temperature setting with some degree of accuracy. Even with my lube heater it's easier. Have built 3 now with an Auber, Rex and a Mypin. All do their jobs well but some things shine on one and not the others. Sometime I'm going to list what I find the Pros & Cons of each to be just for my own satisfaction. Have learned a lot and a long ways to go on that process!

[Beagle333]

I love my PID on my Pro Melt. It sure made things more worry free. I cast for a couple/three years with a Lee 20# Magnum Melter and a ladle, but I have found the way!:mrgreen:

[jsizemore]

My jury is out on whether I can make better bullets or not but I like being able to return to a temperature setting with some degree of accuracy. Even with my lube heater it's easier. Have built 3 now with an Auber, Rex and a Mypin. All do their jobs well but some things shine on one and not the others. Sometime I'm going to list what I find the Pros & Cons of each to be just for my own satisfaction. Have learned a lot and a long ways to go on that process!

My first was an Auber and the next was a Rex purchased 2 years apart. Both came in the same box. The Auber had instructions in English and the Rex was in chicken scratch. I used the instructions from the Auber to set the Rex. The English instructions online for the Rex were much clearer then Auber's for a non tech person like me.

[hc18flyer]

Sooo- Which/Who's pid should I start with? Not very techy at all, but have good friends who are(but don't really need a learning experience), $ is a consideration. I have read most of the pid threads, and have a Lee 4-20 pot. THANKS for your expertise! Flyer

[jsizemore]

Try this link and post #20 has a laundry list of parts and suppliers. Maybe one of your electronics friends can help you pick and choose.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic

[10x]

Sooo- Which/Who's pid should I start with? Not very techy at all, but have good friends who are(but don't really need a learning experience), $ is a consideration. I have read most of the pid threads, and have a Lee 4-20 pot. THANKS for your expertise! Flyer

I have set up Mypin, Rex, and Sestos PID controlers.
The easiest to set up and operate is the REX C-100.
Make sure you get a P.I.D. controler that has a S.S.R. (Solid state Relay) output rather than an internal relay.
Also make sure that your P.I.D. is 120 Volt as they come in 4 variations 24 volt, 120 volt, 240 volt - some will handle the whole range of those voltages some are designed for a specific voltage.
Look for a S.S.R. (Solid state relay) that has an indicator led on it trigger voltage (imput should be 3v to 24V) the relay should be rated 25 Amp and 240 volt.

You will need a K thermocouple - make sure it has a 4" probe and has 36" to 48" leads - some of these come with an 8' lead and you have a coil of wire to deal with.

and a 14 gauge 6 foot extension cord will supply the plug ends

The REX C-100 ordered directly from china will cost between $12 and $20 depending on the day of the week you search for it.
the S.S.R. will cost about $4.
The K thermocouple will cost about $5.
If you are careful in your search you can find these parts with shipping included in the purchase price.

The P.I.D. will have label on it describing what the terminals are for, and whether or not the PID is SSR or internal relay.

I still have a couple of mypins that are "moody" and a pain in the posterior to auto tune.
The REX only read in Centigrade but seem to be the the easiest to set. The documentation says that some REX can be changed from C to F with an internal switch but I ain't seen one yet.

I prefer using F but I use the REX and cope with converting F to C as the REX seem to work just a little nicer

[10x]

THis is an example of a REX with a SSR ( Look at the label - it says 100 to 240v, yet the product description is 32 volts ? you can ask the vendor but you have to make sure that it is compatible with your local line power, or use 2 9 volt batteries to power the P.I.D - some descriptions are confusing)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-REX-C100FK02-V-AN-Solid-State-Relay-max-25A-SSR25DA-1M-M6/32263837784.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.12.re6dbt&ws_ab_test=201407_2,201444_5,201409_1

The thermocouple with this is a short button type - you will want to get this sort of thermocouple

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-Lot-Stainless-Steel-Temperature-Probe-Sensor-K-Type-Thermocouple-Tube-with-2m-Wire-Cable/1717205489.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.72.fQjpAb&ws_ab_test=201407_2,201444_5,201409_1

Look for the REX with the SSR - or buy the one with the relay and use this youtube video to jumper the relay to turn it to SSR

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NpcMycHDvk

Not a difficult task to do so if you care careful to not disturb the printed circuit - I use the copper wire from COAX cable as the jumpers rather than wire from a resistor.

A heat sink for the S.S.R. is optional

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-solid-state-relay-SSR-25DA-25A-actually-3-32V-DC-TO-24-380V-AC-SSR/32276603796.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.27.Qf7bTo&ws_ab_test=201407_2,201444_5,201409_1

These prices change from day to day.
Watch for "free shipping" It can take two to four weeks or longer but it does get to you.

1) the PID must be 120 v
2) the PID must be SSR ( unless it is a REX thne you can covert it with some soldering skill)
3) the Themocouple must be K
4) the SSR should trigger between 3 and 24 volts, be rated at 240 volts and 25 Amp

you will have to purchase terminal connections to crimp to wires to make connections to the PID solid and reliable - Standard auto spade terminals do not have the amperage rating.

[KenH]

10X: that is a very good price on the PID, SSR and type K TC.

Ken H>

[edctexas]

If you use a metal box to enclose your PID circuitry, You might not need a heat sink on the SSR if you mount it to the case. That is to say you are using the metal case as a heat sink. Just be sure the SSR is not going thru paint. It should touch the metal directly.

Ed C

[10x]

10X: that is a very good price on the PID, SSR and type K TC.

Ken H>

shipped direct from China - from the same factories and warehouses the U.S. and Canadian distributors get theirs from.
Out of about 30 PID units I have only had two that gave me trouble - both mypin and I suspect maybe I am not giving them a chance to autotune

[edctexas]

If you wait and collect the sprues and put them back all at once, You can get more consistent weight boolits cast. Thats a result of keeping the pot temp constant. I like collecting the sprues and putting them in at one time to give myself a short break. It only takes a minute or two for the pot to come up and stabilize.

Ed C

[dragon813gt]

If you wait and collect the sprues and put them back all at once, You can get more consistent weight boolits cast. Thats a result of keeping the pot temp constant. I like collecting the sprues and putting them in at one time to give myself a short break. It only takes a minute or two for the pot to come up and stabilize.

Ed C

This is what I do. Except I don't put all of them back in. I leave a handful out in case it over shoots. Drop a few in and bring it back to the correct temp where it stays. I've found that the mold will cool off to much if I'm putting sprues back in constantly. The mold is only set down on a mold guide under the pot for as short a time as possible. Or on the hot plate to keep it up to temp.

[Walter Laich]

THis is an example of a REX with a SSR ( Look at the label - it says 100 to 240v, yet the product description is 32 volts ? you can ask the vendor but you have to make sure that it is compatible with your local line power, or use 2 9 volt batteries to power the P.I.D - some descriptions are confusing)

In these cases I go with what is written. I think some of the seller use a stock picture for everything they sell.
YMMV

[bottomline]

I built my PID on a Mypin and it works fine. Like Mike W1 I don't know that I make better bullets, but the temp is more consistent and in a tighter range. So it should help produce better results. I certainly don't focus on the temp any more.