First Post, First Cast, Lots of Questions

[ncbluedot]

I've been lurking for about a couple months now. Last week I received a pot which came with a 356-120 six cavity mold. My LGS had WW ingots that I picked up during the week and this morning I cast boolits for the first time. Posted are a couple of pictures with examples of my output. I'm guessing the ones all the way to the left were due to the mold not being closed all the way but I got a lot of that the first few casts. They seemed to get better as time went on but most have at least a slight seam and many have more pronounced line across the top of the boolit.

Can I use the ones that are more like the ones on the right? Will sizing them help with the seam or do I throw the whole batch back in the pot and start again? Thanks!!!

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[white eagle]

the flashing is from the mold not being closed like you thought
I would not use them just re-cast them
take your time and watch the mold temp and keep it tight
looks like you are on the rite track

[Yodogsandman]

Congratulations on a fine first post and thread! Keep at it, you're doing great! Rejects can just be re-melted, so no need to save them. If you don't like them, throw them back in! Unless you shoot golf balls at 100 yards, a few small defects won't effect your pistol shooting accuracy much.

Run the mold hot and fast, then don't slow down to look at your efforts. The mold needs to stay heated up to get good boolits. Unless you preheat your mold, plan on throwing the first bunch of casting runs all right back in the pot. After a bunch of casts, you can slow down a bit and be OK to see how you're doing once the mold is heated up good..

I'd pour a larger sprue puddle on top too, to keep the sprue plated heated up nice. It will help prevent rounded bases.

Is your sprue plate too tight? Too tight could also cause rounded bases because the mold isn't vented right. The mold top looks like it's getting scratched from either a too tight of a sprue plate or no sprue plate lubrication.

[ncbluedot]

Is your sprue plate too tight? Too tight could also cause rounded bases because the mold isn't vented right. The mold top looks like it's getting scratched from either a too tight of a sprue plate or no sprue plate lubrication.

Thanks for the kind words. I don't think the sprue plate is on too tight at least it doesn't feel that way. But I guess I wouldn't know what too tight felt like either. What would one lube the sprue plate with???

[bangerjim]

You will probably not get any of those flashed slugs thru your sizing die without breaking either your arm or the press! Re-melt them. I never use any boolits with even the tiniest amount of flash. It is so easy to just make new ones.

You got a serious non-closure problem with your mold. If you hold it up and you can see light at the seam, either you have garbage/lead/gunk on the faces, in the pins, or your mold is severely warped - and time for a new one.

DO NOT hold onto the sprue handle while casting!!!!!! Only the two mold handles. That can cause SERIOUS flash.

Lube it with sprue plate lube! I use 2 cycle motor oil....the blue stuff you get at Walmart.

banger

[pworley1]

Welcome to the site. It looks like you have the right solution given already. Enjoy.

[44man]

Good advise so far. But don't cut too soon either or lead will build under the plate and it can gouge the mold top too.

[kentuckyshooter]

I lube with bees wax per lees instructions that came with my molds. Mind that it dont get into the cavitys as it will cause funky looking boolits. Welcome abord and keep that mold hot. Took me a while and a lot of rejects to learn that.

[jcren]

Check your mold faces for dots of lead splatter. That will cause the molds not to close. Flake them off with a piece of wood, kabob skewer etc

[runfiverun]

keep your thumb off that third handle.

[Mitch]

looks good for your first casting session.i had the same problems when I fist started with the 6 holer mold.just watch how you old the mold and make sure it is closed.some of my molds don't close all the way when the spru plate is in the wrong spot.as said above don't hold on to the spru plate handel.the great think about lead is it is totally reuseable no big thing.in a few more sessions you will get some very nice boolits I am sure.i suggest a hot plate if you do not have one now for warming the 6 holler or it will take a while to get it up to temp.welcome to casting and an addicting hobby lol

[tward]

Not too bad for a first cast. They get better with practice. Re melt,recast,lube,load,shoot! Mostly have fun! It's a great hobby/addiction. Tim

[OnHoPr]

First of all, welcome to the site. I took a look at your three pics and started scratching my head as to the characteristics of your boolits. I never seen symptoms like that before. Though, I never cast with a six banger and that style of pot either. I have cast a few boolits though. I went to youtube and watched a vid, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mCjfLlo9Hg. I have a few IMHO ideas though.

a. the fins are from the mold not being closed all the way. Lube the locating pins and the hinge bolt of the sprue plate. Aluminum molds can get sticky when they are hot, so lube is needed. This will help with the closing of the mold too. If you still are getting fins there might be a burr somewhere keeping the mold from closing or the mold may not be machined true.
b. For the scratches in the mold top, possibly you may want to take a stone and hone the outside bottom edge of the sprue plate if there are any minor burrs from the manufacturer. You may also put a faint trace of lube on the bottom of the sprue plate. Also, post #7.
c. From the profile of your boolits it looks like the mold is hot enough, but from the incomplete fill out on the top where the boolits edge is there is roundness. Maybe the mold needs to be a bit hotter. What is your alloy? You may need to add some Sn to your alloy for complete fill out. Your actual pour method could cause this too. Watch from 2:20 to 3:20 and how he cast. Notice how he is irregular in hitting the sprue hole with his pour. Then look at frames 3:16 & 3:17. This will cause rounded corners and poor fill out most of the time. After you know your mold and what temp it likes this may subside even with slightly bad pours. Your mold and temps may like a certain pour from hitting the hole directly or maybe slightly tilted and the side of the sprue hole, etc. Molds can have their idiosyncrasies. The mold may also have different temps throughout the mold like from end to end or the center and ends, etc. From your sprues it looks like you are concentrating on each cavity though and that is good.
d. Sprues, look at his sprues and your 4 outside sprues compared to your two center sprues. Quite a bit of difference in them correct. Watch how he gives a little jiggle to the mold while the sprues are cooling. I wouldn't recommend that. They are only 120 grers, so let the sprue cool on its own while the cavity is sucking down lead. Pour a good pour, make a good sprue and let it cool on its own.
e. Sprues again, in this video I noticed that you drag the mold across the support shelf with this pot. See or hear how it seems dry and rough. I noticed the vibration and the mold shimmying during its course of movement. This is why I seen the weird sprues on his and your outside four, but it may not really be an issue. How does the bottom of the mold look, is it getting definite wear marks from dragging it back and forth across the support shelf? Will it get rougher and rougher with use as being aluminum against steel?

f. Lee pot supporting shelf, JMHO, wouldn't be advantageous to make a sub platform or shelf under the original shelf to configure a mini caster system that would come through the original shelf in a couple of points for this method of casting. Maybe a mini roller pin system with two or three rollers. Maybe JB welding a few pieces of small diameter brass rod like brazing rod. It seems like it would make it smoother for casting, easier on the mold, and better for the sprues.
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Something anyways.

Back to your issue, I think you just need a bit of trigger time so to speak with your your new hobby. Once you get the gist of your mold, pot, and system it looks like you will be needing a whole lot of primers.

[ncbluedot]

WOW! Thanks for all the great feedback and OnHoPr for the very in depth analysis. I did notice as I was using the guide I wasn't pouring directly into the sprue holes in a couple of the cavities. I wondered if a "6 banger" (ha ha) was a good starter mold for a newbie but it came with the deal. I took the mold apart and tried to clean around the pins and such with some alcohol. I did get some lead bits out so maybe that will help. I will lube the sprue before I start my next session. I was more worried about making "frosted" bullets which may have kept my mold cooler than it should have been. Again thanks to everyone for the sage wisdom!

While I have everyone on the horn, I'm wanting to pick up another mold that would work for both 9mm and 38 special, I've read some threads about the Lee 358-105, any thoughts? I'll be using it for 7 to 10 yard target and plinking with a 4" and 3" 9mms and a 4" S&W model 10.

[bangerjim]

I do not like that little funky-looking 105 they make. I say stick to something in the 130 to 160 gn range for excellent result and accuracy. Even the soup can is better.

If you are trying to cast with the shortage of lead in mind. don't. There is plenty of lead out there. Cast what works.

If you want a boolit that works in 9 and 38, get something like MiHec's 138 RNFP. I have two different molds one is standard and the other is no lube groves for powder coating. Both are excellent. Get the 359 and you can size down if needed for your 9mm.

banger

[osteodoc08]

Youve been given good advice so far.

-Clean the molds and make sure there are no spatters
-Dont hold onto the sprue plate handle while filling, just keep the handles closed
-Consider stoning the top to smooth out the sprue plate and top of the mold. A little goes a long way, especially with the soft aluminum that Lee uses.
-Use 2 cycle synthtic oil SPARINGLY as a sprue plate lube. Take a clean mold and sprue plate and rub a little on with a Qtip and AVOID the cavities and sprue plate holes.

Here is what I have to add:

The mold and the melt dont look hot enough. Preheat your mold on a hot plate. I set mine on my hot plate, turn it to medium and let it sit there until the sprue plate lube starts to smoke. If it isnt's smoking, it isnt hot enough. This will prevent galling of the aluminum and keep lead from sticking.

The sprue plate should swing with gravity on a clean unfilled mold. It looks like it may be a bit too loose as there are "nipples" on the bullets you cut. If the mold and melt is hot enough, you should be able to cut the sprue without hammering on the sprue plate and a quick flick of the hand should be all that is needed to cut it. As a side note, I like to cast with the sprue plate opening from the other end, but there is no right or wrong way.

If the melt is hot enough (I cast at 700-725F on a lyman thermo), the sprue plate should be able to be run across to each hole and be a smooth linear pour. I like casting a large sprue so that the sprue plate remains hot. It looks like the melt was too cold (if using a bottom pour). If ladle pour, you did ok, but still seems like it may be too cold.

Get in a good rhythm and dont stop to look. You can cull later.

Any more questions, feel free to ask. Welcome to CastBoolits

[mjwcaster]

I got my first 6 cav, just used it for the first time today.

My sprue plate stop is too tight, close the mould handles and the mould is closed tight, close the sprue plate all the way and it pushes the mould halves apart.

Close the mould handles again and the mould closes back up.

I can see this happening by watching the front end of the mould, you can see a gap form as the sprue plate is closed all the way.

And no I am not holding onto the sprue plate handles while casting, just to close it.

It is relieving itself and getting better, I will probably try lightly (really lightly) filing the sprue plate cutout for the sprue plate stop before I try again tonight.

[mjwcaster]

I relieved the sprue plate stop cutout with a file, real lightly, just until the sprue plate would close without affecting the mould.
Casting session went fine, no more mould opening back up, no more flashing on boolits.

May not be your issue, just another possibility.