What Round Butt N Frame Grips Do You Recommend?

[.45Cole]

I have a 625-4 with the Hogue rubber finger groove grips. I keep shooting low and don't exactly love the grips. I have pretty large skinny hands. I love thinner grips on a 1911, but they are a little more boxier than a Smith. I have no clue as to what are a good cheaper grip (under $100).

[boatswainsmate]

These are working really well on my 44 magnums.
http://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-Diamond-Series-Frame-Round/dp/B00I77PKL2

[cajun shooter]

Grips are one item that you can't ask everyone what works for them unless you both have the same size hands and grip the revolver in the same place with the same hand. Proper fit will make a big difference on down range results. Later David

[376Steyr]

Pachmayr makes several different styles, and variations like covering the backstrap or not covering it for a smaller size. They are also inexpensive enough that you can do some experimenting. http://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-Decelerator-Grips-Frame-Square/dp/B0002INPKM/ref=pd_sim_200_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NPS36RPN2AJSYK9CWJG&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL320_SR244%2C320_ and http://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-Decelerator-Grips-Frame-Round/dp/B0002INPN4/ref=pd_sim_200_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TSK5XS58Z203P1N234B&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL320_SR246%2C320_ and http://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-American-Legend-Charcoal-Silvertone/dp/B00I77PMT2/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1441033850&sr=1-10&keywords=pachmayr+legend

Note: I don't have any connection to Amazon or the sellers shown.

[Dframe]

I love Kim Ahrends stocks. He makes a wide variety of stocks for just about any purpose. But as Cajun shooter said everybodys hands and gripping styles are different.

[tja6435]

Look at Badgercustomgrips.com, he can make you custom grips for under $100

[williamwaco]

I have a 625-4 with the Hogue rubber finger groove grips. I keep shooting low and don't exactly love the grips. I have pretty large skinny hands. I love thinner grips on a 1911, but they are a little more boxier than a Smith. I have no clue as to what are a good cheaper grip (under $100).


I am old and a bit slow. Please explain to me why you don't adjust the sights to strike higher?

[fourarmed]

Shooting low in spite of the sight setting is a sure sign that you have a really powerful flinch. I would work on eliminating that before spending money on grips. Having said that, I confess that I also detest the rubber Hoags that come on Smiths. If I had to shoot those grips, it would be after I removed the ridges between the finger grooves on a belt sander.

[Blackwater]

Fourarmed cites a possibility, but as to the grip issue, that's really something that's so individual, dependent on the size and padding of your hand and finger length, that nobody can answer your question, really, but you. And further, the only way to find a really good set of grips is to try them on for size, just like you would a good suit of clothes, before buying.

How big is your hand? What size gloves do you wear? Are your fingers long, avg. or short? Are your hand and your fingers well padded and thick, or average, or slender? These are the reasons grips vary, and that different people find different grips perform best for them. It's all a matter of fit, and nobody can validly comment on the issue without a lot more info than you've provided, and even then, any comment can only be a guess that might at least steer you in the right direction, but nobody can really tell you.

The main things to look for are first, that the girth of the grip at the top lets your trigger finger lie in just the right spot to let the trigger finger press straight back, and doesn't tend to make you pull up or down while pulling it. Next, the middle of the grip should fill the "cup" of your hand comfortable, and WITHOUT FORCE. This helps you also pull straight back. Too much girth here, and your grip will tend to make you pull up, down or to the side, depending on how it sits your hand on the rest of the grip. The bottom is often flared, but I've found it best for most people, especially in DA, to taper downward and round off for best, quickest and most natural pointing.

I know of no grips commonly offered that fit this bill on N frames, and these days, that puts you over your price range of $100. If I knew of a set under that, I'd probably buy a pair - one for the gun and another spare in case something happened to the first set. Really good fitting and configured grips DO in fact make DA revolvers, particulary, handle and shoot MUCH better, but they can't always be found these days, and the custom jobbies get kind'a spendy. And BTW, I've found that smooth walnut or similar, with minimal finish on them, tends to provide the best and most consistent grip. If you grab them hastily and don't get the perfect grip, the 1st shot tends to seat them into your hand much more precisely, allowing faster and more accurate followup shots. If you find the right grips, that fit you as outlined, give 'em a try and see for yourself.

Grips matter MUCH more than most WANT to think, and this is especially true on DA revolvers, like yours. It's just a result of the way God put us together, and the lack of standardization in our conformations. Wish I could help more, but this is what my experience has taught me.

[fourarmed]

Blackwater is 100% right about N-frame grips. On the square butt models, it is difficult to make grips small enough for most people's needs. The round butts are much better. I have a set of the Jerry Miculek grips for both. The ones for the RB are very nice, but the SB ones have an opening in the front to clear the toe of the grip frame that can be hard on your fingers after a lot of shooting. Elmer Keith wrote about some grips he had back in the day which filled the gap behind the trigger guard, but left the front strap fully exposed. It might be possible to modify larger grips to this form.

[.45Cole]

I'll clarify: when I say I keep shooting low I mean to say that as I point the gun from grabbing it I keep coming up low. If I just grab it from the holster, swing and fire I am low. The pistol is very accurate both in single and double, but I like one that points well with me. Playing with grips on a 1911, BH's and my detective special does this for me. I just figured I'd clear the search a little.

[Gunslinger1911]

Grips are really personal, what works for me my not work for anybody else.
That's my reason for going to gun shows - lots of grips you can feel in your hand.
That being said,
I've had good luck with Altamont grips http://altamontco.com/experimental/products/pistol/smith_and_wesson/#Smith_and_Wesson_nframe.php

Beautiful wood, VERY reasonably priced - The "super walnut" is really sharp !

[Joni Lynn]

My answer to the question is the Herrett's Jordan Trooper revolver stock. I think it may be a little more $ than what is mentioned as a max but they are made to fit your individual handsize.
This is a round butt frame but stocked like a square one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/Joni_Lynn/CH_zpszhbolobt.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Joni_Lynn/media/CH_zpszhbolobt.jpg.html)

[Petrol & Powder]

I agree grips are a very individual thing. Unfortunately testing by purchasing can quickly get expensive. The Herrett's above have a pretty good reputation but as mentioned, they are not cheap.
I've used a lot of Eagle Grips over the years and they are pretty good for something a little less than custom grips but they may not work for someone else. Craig Spegel made a great set of grips for one of my K-frame snubbies but you're starting to talk some real money.

I have also found some off the shelf synthetic grips that work surprisingly well for me but again, may not work for you.
My advice would be to check out Eagle grips and take a look at the Pachmyar gripper. Sometimes you get lucky and an off the shelf grip fits you perfectly.

[Joni Lynn]

Brownell's has the the grip style that Jerry Miculek came up with. It's a bit small for my taste but works well none the less. It's also under $100 last I looked. It appears they might be made by Hogue. I have no connection with Herrett's, Brownell's or Hogue.
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/grip-parts/grips/s-w-miculek-competition-grips-prod1473.aspx?avs|Make~~Model_1=Smith+%26+Wesson__ N+Frame&psize=48

[.45Cole]

I initially thought Jordan Trooper pattern, but they are a little pricey. I think I will try Ahrends as they are about right, except for I can't really try them. Might be a nice set of grips coming up on S&S! Osage orange?

Is there a big concensus between finger groove and no finger groove and square/round?

[TXGunNut]

I like the idea of a square butt grip as well, should point higher than a round butt. I used Pachmayr Signature grips on my S&W revolvers for years but could never get the Hogue rubber grips to work for me except on J-frames. I'm a huge fan of the Hogue wood and ivory polymer grips for my RBH and SR1911.

[Petrol & Powder]

148101"Is there a big concensus between finger groove and no finger groove and square/round? "

What are you trying to do ? Make this a hostile thread :bigsmyl2: ?

OK, finger groove vs. no finger groove.........You might as well be talking about Ford vs. Chevy or the Protestant Reformation (just kidding)

The combat shooters will tell you that a smooth stock is more likely to result in a proper grip under stress most of the time, regardless of the speed of the draw.
The target crowd will tell you that a well fitted finger groove handgun stock will improve consistency and therefore will produce repeatable grips and better overall performance.
I think they're both right.;)

The old factory S&W smooth combat grips for the round butt K-frames are a good compromise and work really well for me, BUT......grips are very individual things.

[Petrol & Powder]

To expound on the round butt v. Square butt dilemma;


The Square butt tends to produce a slightly higher natural point and is generally preferred by target shooters.
The Round butt is considered to be more "Concealable" or compact.

S&W eventually adopted the round butt pattern for the grip frame which allows both grip types by simply changing grip panels.

My personal preference [and this is by NO means holly writ] is that revolvers with barrels less than 4" are better suited by round butt grips to enhance ease of concealment and speed of draw.
Revolvers with barrels 4" or longer are better suited for square butt grips because they are seldom, if ever, carried concealed. IF you have large hands, the Square butt configuration lends itself to more precise work but it is slightly more difficult to conceal. Some people find the round butt configuration easier to point.
Because it is easy to covert a round butt configuration to square butt by simply replacing the grips, it was wise of S&W to adopt that grip frame.

[.45Cole]

What are you trying to do ? Make this a hostile thread :bigsmyl2: ?

I was saving that for when I pour out my admiration for my detective special's factory grip (3rd gen)!

I called Ahrends and he said the same thing. I think I'll go with a quarter flip. Or round to square no finger grips. Like I said, might be a nice pair of grips in S&S in about 3 months.

[Petrol & Powder]

"I was saving that for when I pour out my admiration for my detective special's factory grip (3rd gen)!"

148106
Couldn't make the factory Detective Special grips work for me. Had to go to the smooth "Secret Service" grips from Eagle.[smilie=s:

[.45Cole]

Nice! I might have to look into the Eagle DS grips, as I have a hard time with speed loaders in the DS. Did you bob the hammer?

[blindeye]

Shortly after I bought my 625, (the first version offered); I bobbed-off a spare set of S&W smooth square-butt target grips. They're still on it.
I have long, thin fingers and small palms.
First I scribed a line on the insides, removed wood, then rounded slightly side to side. Worked slowly. Also removed just a tad at the front bottom, as they looked like they 'hooked' forward in that area. After a light sanding, rubbed in a few coats of Truoil which easily blended into the original un-removed finish.
I like the exposed backstrap, the filler behind the trigger guard & the speed loader notch. They look just like K/L frame round-butt smooth target grips and feel the same in-hand.
I've never been able to warm-up to finger groove grips. Back in the day I tried about every factory grip available for K,L & N frames. That got expensive, temporarily; until all the ones that didn't work well for me got sold off.
I found just holding & handling a revolver with a set of grips mounted didn't give results comparable to actually shooting. At the time, I was about the only one using a revolver at local, fairly casual matches. So I wasn't able to try out other guys' revolver/grip combos.

These days I'd try the Mickulec grips before doing alterations to what've become fairly expensive factory grips.

[Petrol & Powder]

Nice! I might have to look into the Eagle DS grips, as I have a hard time with speed loaders in the DS. Did you bob the hammer?
Yes on the bobbed hammer. I detest hammer spurs on snub nosed revolvers.
As for speed loaders, that scalloped portion of the grip is the result of some dremel tool work and some sand paper. The Rosewood lends itself well to reshaping and those grips now work with speedloaders.

[.45Cole]

Those DS's are good shooters. I'll have to keep that in mind when I have a couple spare dollars to throw to the DS. It's now regulated to bedroom duty as I shot it quite a bit and don't want to ruin it.

I've tried the Mickulec grips, but they just didn't have my feel. I think I'll just go for grips from Ahrends that keep the pistol close to the feel of my Bisleys, as that's my pride and joy.

[Lefty Red]

If you can find them, a set of Bill Jordan "trooper" grips are great with the heavy recoiling hand guns. Its just if you can find a set.

Jerry