pid for lee 4-20 110v pot

[kennyz]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Digital-PID-Temperature-controller-40A-SSR-K-thermocouple-thermostat-Heatsink-/371134794995?hash=item56695b8cf3 does anyone know if this would work for the lee 4-20 110v pot.thanks

[JASON4X4]

The temp probe is not long enough but everything else will work

[kennyz]

could i get the extension or a diff probe? do you have a set up like this

[JASON4X4]

I bought my parts separate you can order a longer probe just make sure it is a k type and it should work fine

[kennyz]

if this one will work i can order it. what do you think http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITAL-SSR-PID-TEMP-CONTROLLER-F-C-40AMP-SSR-HEATSINK-K-Thermocouple-/261729004007?hash=item3cf043a9e7

[Yodogsandman]

Is that PID the REX100? Reads Celsius only?

[Mike W1]

Either one of those rigs would work but you'd still need to order a different TC with at least a 4" probe. And he's right the REX will only read in Celsius. If you go the REX route BE SURE it'll work with a SSR as some don't. Check the specs to make sure it's not for relay output.

[kennyz]

says that it displays both but the controller is set todisplay f (Dual display for Fahrenheit (F) and Celsius (C)

[minmax]

That's a Rex C-100 do not get this unit, I just bought one and sent it back. Check out some of the forums on beer making and Esspreso machines. Everyone seems to have a lot of problems. To get the SSR to work you have to take the unit part and make jumpers. There is a video on YouTube on how to to it. It only reads in C°, which you can convert. I would rather have it in F° but, that's just me.

[minmax]

The MyPin seems to do O.K. Just to be safe I am going to get one from Auburns.

[Mike W1]

I like my Auber SYL-2352 but my REX C100 controls the temperature just as well. But my REX came with it being setup for SSR. Maybe some REX units can be converted to read °F but mine isn't doable.

Auber units have instructions in plain English and great tech support. If you order from there I'd suggest you get a panel/plug disconnect at the same time. Called a TCCON I believe. The Mypins seem to work well but their instructions are worse than the REX's IMHO. That said I've got a Mypin coming and plan on doing some comparisons on the 3 units.

[minmax]

How about this one. Not sure how set up link other than copy and paste.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-SSR-Control-output-1-alarm/140734649531?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D2%26 asc%3D29979%26meid%3D5f180fae7ab04270826d2b744fd87 086%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D2617 29004007

[3jimbo3]

Try this www.aliexpress.com and search for pid. There is even an app for your phone.

[Mike W1]

How about this one. Not sure how set up link other than copy and paste.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-SSR-Control-output-1-alarm/140734649531?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D2%26 asc%3D29979%26meid%3D5f180fae7ab04270826d2b744fd87 086%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D2617 29004007

Noticed that one and wonder if it's really $12.99 which would be a heck of a good buy.

[minmax]

Yes, it must be a typo. At least Ihope so.

[10x]

That looks like a REX C100.
The specs are curious and indicate it has an internal relay.
The thermocouple is short as well and you would have to put it on the outside of the pot rather than immerse it.

I have bought these from Aliexpress for less than $20 (complete) direct from China.
I have yet to see one that could be switched to read in F. but that is not really a problem.
The heat range on some of these maxes at 400 C as well.

The Rex is extremely easy to set the temperature on.
(If it has an interal relay you can take it apart and replace the internal relay with jumpers to the #4 and #5 contact pins. I have done this on several of these units.
the hard part is removing the relay without damaging the printed circuit.

[RobS]

This guy is nice to work with and has all that you need. You will need to message the seller to send you the longer probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C) and if you want a higher rating SSR he will likely do that too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[P Flados]

This guy is nice to work with and has all that you need. You will need to message the seller to send you the longer probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C) and if you want a higher rating SSR he will likely do that too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks for the link/instructions. Just bought one. Will provide feedback when I get it up and running.

[tja6435]

stay away from those REX controllers. Had one, wasted time with it, sent it back and got the mypin ta4 I should've got. I built 2 pid controllers with the mypin controllers and both have been solid. One maintains temp in the lee pot and the other maintains temp in the toaster oven I use for the hi-Tek bake

[minmax]

RobS, thanks for the link. He's down in Mansfield Ohio, I have family there. I wonder if he has a brick and mortar store. I'll have to send him a message. I priced out the Aubern's it was only a little more, plus higher shipping.

[10x]

stay away from those REX controllers. Had one, wasted time with it, sent it back and got the mypin ta4 I should've got. I built 2 pid controllers with the mypin controllers and both have been solid. One maintains temp in the lee pot and the other maintains temp in the toaster oven I use for the hi-Tek bake

I have used a number of Rex C-100 controllers. They work extremely well.
I have 2 mypin controllers - neither are as easy to set up and use as the Rex.
The Rex controllers only give a reading in celcius - That is the only negative I have found.

[P Flados]

Thanks for the link/instructions. Just bought one. Will provide feedback when I get it up and running.

As noted in post #18, I ordered the package deal Thurs night (8/20/15).

When I got home around 7:00 pm on Mon 8/24/15, the package was waiting for me.

Package came with a perfect type K T/C, Mypin PID controller (all set up for the supplied T/C) , SSR, heat sink & a few more needed bits. No box or in/out power cords, but pretty much everything else.

Using the supplied wiring diagram, I slapped together an arrangement to drive my 40 year old Lee bottom pour 10# pot.

Never bothered to fully read any of the setup stuff for the controller (either here or with the Mypin instruction pamphlet).

I figured out that in operate mode, the top number would be Process Variable (pot temp) and lower value would be setpoint.

Powered up the controller with the actual pot not connected. Got a reasonable 77 °F indicated temp & noted a 100 °F setpoint.

Connected the pot & added some lead.

Poked around with the buttons and figured how to change the setpoint, set for 750 °F.

After the lead was 50% melted, I unplugged the pot but left power to the controller.

Figured out my lead melt temp was around an indicated 585 °F.

Set it for 660 °F.

Let it warm up & settle. Started casting a few boolits.

Mold did not get hot enough / quick enough for my liking, so I cranked up the setpoint to 730 °F.

The controller drove the temp up nicely & settled. Cast a few more & got what I expected.

It was getting late, so I gave up without any real "production".

The above was all on Monday night.

This evening, I noted that the bottom pour nozzle was sealed with a drop of lead.

I poured in ~1" of water & fired it up. The water went to a rolling boil & the indication was around 217 °F.

Reading 5 °F high for a T/C rated as 0-800 °C (0-1472 °F) is only a 0.3% error. I was very happy.

I could probably have gone cheaper, but again, I am happy.

I got it all with one order, the PID was setup for the T/C, it came fast and it was $50 delivered.

[minmax]

Thanks for the write up. I have purchased everything but, the actual PID it self. So far everything from U.S. vendors except made in China of course. I've spent less than $25 w/postage. Still up in the air about the Aubern's cuz there postage is so high. If I decide to get there female mini conector for the TC then I will get one of there smaller one, with only one display which us for the set point temp.

[edctexas]

Yes Auberins costs slightly more. Their units work well, and have instructions that you can read. Plus I liked that it was a one stop shopping spot. That made the shipping much more reasonable. I'm very happy with the PIDS, TCs, SSRs, connectors and box I bought.

Ed C

[RobS]

As noted in post #18, I ordered the package deal Thurs night (8/20/15).

When I got home around 7:00 pm on Mon 8/24/15, the package was waiting for me.

Package came with a perfect type K T/C, Mypin PID controller (all set up for the supplied T/C) , SSR, heat sink & a few more needed bits. No box or in/out power cords, but pretty much everything else.

Using the supplied wiring diagram, I slapped together an arrangement to drive my 40 year old Lee bottom pour 10# pot.

Never bothered to fully read any of the setup stuff for the controller (either here or with the Mypin instruction pamphlet).

I figured out that in operate mode, the top number would be Process Variable (pot temp) and lower value would be setpoint.

Powered up the controller with the actual pot not connected. Got a reasonable 77 °F indicated temp & noted a 100 °F setpoint.

Connected the pot & added some lead.

Poked around with the buttons and figured how to change the setpoint, set for 750 °F.

After the lead was 50% melted, I unplugged the pot but left power to the controller.

Figured out my lead melt temp was around an indicated 585 °F.

Set it for 660 °F.

Let it warm up & settle. Started casting a few boolits.

Mold did not get hot enough / quick enough for my liking, so I cranked up the setpoint to 730 °F.

The controller drove the temp up nicely & settled. Cast a few more & got what I expected.

It was getting late, so I gave up without any real "production".

The above was all on Monday night.

This evening, I noted that the bottom pour nozzle was sealed with a drop of lead.

I poured in ~1" of water & fired it up. The water went to a rolling boil & the indication was around 217 °F.

Reading 5 °F high for a T/C rated as 0-800 °C (0-1472 °F) is only a 0.3% error. I was very happy.

I could probably have gone cheaper, but again, I am happy.

I got it all with one order, the PID was setup for the T/C, it came fast and it was $50 delivered.


Good wright up! You can actually adjust the probe +- the degree difference if you want to however I can't remember right at the moment how to do it. Also don't forget to auto tune things so the PID "learns" your pot.

[P Flados]

I am not worried about "auto tuning" for now.

The pot seems to regulate fine.

Before this, I did not even have a thermometer. I am still learning how use the temperature information as I cast.

I did up a bunch out of my new Lee C358-200-RF. I ended up with 13.6# after culling. I had lots of rejects.

I tried running up over 700 °F some, but the boolits did not look right. I knew that the mold I was using tends to run smaller than the other 35 cal molds I use. Sure enough, I ended up tossing quite a few that had more than 50% of the upper band untouched by my 0.357" sizer die.

Next time, I think I will try to stick with what I did at the end of the session. I got the pot full, ran the setpoint down to 670 °F, and focused on short cycle times to keep the mold hot. This seemed to get better boolits. I think the key was that I pretty much just ran from full pot to empty pot without my usual interruptions to periodically add sprues and culls.

[Mike W1]

I am not worried about "auto tuning" for now.

The pot seems to regulate fine.

Before this, I did not even have a thermometer. I am still learning how use the temperature information as I cast.

I did up a bunch out of my new Lee C358-200-RF. I ended up with 13.6# after culling. I had lots of rejects.

I tried running up over 700 °F some, but the boolits did not look right. I knew that the mold I was using tends to run smaller than the other 35 cal molds I use. Sure enough, I ended up tossing quite a few that had more than 50% of the upper band untouched by my 0.357" sizer die.

Next time, I think I will try to stick with what I did at the end of the session. I got the pot full, ran the setpoint down to 670 °F, and focused on short cycle times to keep the mold hot. This seemed to get better boolits. I think the key was that I pretty much just ran from full pot to empty pot without my usual interruptions to periodically add sprues and culls.

Not knowing much about Lee Moulds but even their instructions say to cast hotter than you would with iron moulds. Sounds like you need to up the temperature not lower it to me.

Depends on which PID you have on how to engage AT. My Auber you go into the parameters and change AT to a 1 or 2. 2 does it automatically but a one you have to hit one of the other buttons. The Mypin you just hold the AT button for a bit and the AT LED will light up. Don't remember for sure on the REX but think you get into the parameters on it and change AT from 0 to 1. All of them AT and return themselves to regular LED's when they're done.

I use two 10 lbs Lee furnaces and only add to the feeder pot. It'll keep up with your sprues and culls and I always have up to temperature metal when the lower pot needs it. Generally fill it when approximately 5-6 ingots have been used and it takes roughly 2 minutes to do that chore. With time for a quick smoke!

[minmax]

Make sure to wash your hands.

[Mike W1]

Make sure to wash your hands.

Always wear gloves when I cast but they come off when I smoke. Somehow I don't think lead residue is gonna jump off the bench and get me!

[g5m]

Noticed that one and wonder if it's really $12.99 which would be a heck of a good buy.

Here's the current listed price:
US $1,212.99

Uhhh, I don't think so.

[CGC]

This guy is nice to work with and has all that you need. You will need to message the seller to send you the longer probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C) and if you want a higher rating SSR he will likely do that too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Robs,
Is this all you need to run a lee 4-20?

[Mike W1]

Ought to do it nicely but be sure to specify the K probe!

[CGC]

Ok thanks Mike.

[PeterD]

I am about to pull the pin and buy a Lee 40-20 pot and looking to also pull the pin and start with PID right off the bat.

I have done a lot of work in C so having F is not a requirement so that gives me the widest selection of PID controllers as just about all the world uses metric units except the USA and knowing metric well is a blessing when chosing equipment.

Lead melts at 327.5 Celcius
Zinc melts at 419.5 Celcius

I don't think I ever want zinc melting so having a probe or PID that goes above 400C is a bit of a waste unless some bright spark can convince me otherwise.

Amazon has some decent choices but half of them deliver from over in China so I won't get fast delivery.

I used Aliexpress and other chinese eBay sites for the past 10+ years before so I am comfortable with them so lets see whats the best maximization of the dollar... For those of you worried, the sellers you buy form don't get your money, Aliexpress holds it in Escrow and only when you recieve your items and log on and tell Aliexpress you did will the money be released to the sellers of the items.

Looks like the Model: REX-C100 FK02-V*AN is the one that can control the SSR which is important, you don't want one with a built-in relay as the amperage is very low and people not knowing and buying the wrong one and trying to wire an SSR onto it probably are the source of all the negative REX posts. I've actually used this before when setting up my electric beer brewing kettle overseas.

I can get the Model: REX-C100 FK02-V*AN, and the 40A SSR and the Heatsink for the SSR and a K Type Thermocouple 2meters with useless sized probe for $10.50. There is shipping from China of $7.20.

Just for giggles I checked the ones with free shipping (no such thing in reality they just pre-add the shipping charge on but sometimes you get a slightly cheaper overall price with free shipping items so its worth checking)... no dice. the separate shipping is still cheaper by $1.29...

Total: $17.70 USD shipped. DONE..

LINK TO ITEM ON ALIEXPRESS (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-240VAC-PID-Temperature-controller-Max-40A-SSR-heat-sink-2M-thermocouple-K-probe/32260064484.html?ws_ab_test=201556_1,201527_4_71_7 2_73_74_75,201560_1)

A Thermocouple again having 800C or 1250C temperature capability on a PID controller that only goes up to 400C is a bit of a waste.

Because we are not going over 400C we are not forced to use a K Type Thermocouple and could use a ol' PT-100 Thermoresistor probe but thats 3 wires to connect instead of 2 and I'm lazy and don't want to think anymore than necessary when it comes time to assemble the unit. So I'll stick with the K Type.

Low and behold you can get it cheaper by $1 from Amazon.com.

$3.84 including Free Shipping. I doubt its a domestic shipment but I'll wait to be pleasantly surprised. DONE.

LINK TO ITEM ON AMAZON (http://www.amazon.com/8-8ft-Thermocouple-Temperature-Control-Sensor/dp/B00843IKWK/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07A78PBH8KH6YEDNPBHS&dpID=41NtpQvh2dL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_)

All that is left is some thermal paste but I have plenty left over when I built my latest PC computer and needed it for attaching the massive heat pipe and fan unit to my Intel processor. So $0 for me.

So lets see
$17.70
+
$3.84
---------
$21.50


So now that the PID controller is taken care of and I have some time before all this kit arrives here domestically -- For all you existing Lee 4-20 owners, what other modificiations (physical or otherwise) are recommended to a new owner of a 4-20 to really get this pot dialed in sweet?

Cheers,
PeterD

[Yodogsandman]

PeterD, You'll need to fashion some sort of a holder for the probe. Some also like to "lap in" the spigot rod, too to prevent dripping or leaking.

[Beagle333]

Get several K-probes while yer at it. They fail occasionally and you won't have to wait for another cheap one to arrive on the slow boat if you have a few in the cabinet. :violin:

[10x]

I am about to pull the pin and buy a Lee 40-20 pot and looking to also pull the pin and start with PID right off the bat.

I have done a lot of work in C so having F is not a requirement so that gives me the widest selection of PID controllers as just about all the world uses metric units except the USA and knowing metric well is a blessing when chosing equipment.

Lead melts at 327.5 Celcius
Zinc melts at 419.5 Celcius

I don't think I ever want zinc melting so having a probe or PID that goes above 400C is a bit of a waste unless some bright spark can convince me otherwise.

Amazon has some decent choices but half of them deliver from over in China so I won't get fast delivery.

I used Aliexpress and other chinese eBay sites for the past 10+ years before so I am comfortable with them so lets see whats the best maximization of the dollar... For those of you worried, the sellers you buy form don't get your money, Aliexpress holds it in Escrow and only when you recieve your items and log on and tell Aliexpress you did will the money be released to the sellers of the items.

Looks like the Model: REX-C100 FK02-V*AN is the one that can control the SSR which is important, you don't want one with a built-in relay as the amperage is very low and people not knowing and buying the wrong one and trying to wire an SSR onto it probably are the source of all the negative REX posts. I've actually used this before when setting up my electric beer brewing kettle overseas.

I can get the Model: REX-C100 FK02-V*AN, and the 40A SSR and the Heatsink for the SSR and a K Type Thermocouple 2meters with useless sized probe for $10.50. There is shipping from China of $7.20.

Just for giggles I checked the ones with free shipping (no such thing in reality they just pre-add the shipping charge on but sometimes you get a slightly cheaper overall price with free shipping items so its worth checking)... no dice. the separate shipping is still cheaper by $1.29...

Total: $17.70 USD shipped. DONE..

LINK TO ITEM ON ALIEXPRESS (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-240VAC-PID-Temperature-controller-Max-40A-SSR-heat-sink-2M-thermocouple-K-probe/32260064484.html?ws_ab_test=201556_1,201527_4_71_7 2_73_74_75,201560_1)

A Thermocouple again having 800C or 1250C temperature capability on a PID controller that only goes up to 400C is a bit of a waste.

Because we are not going over 400C we are not forced to use a K Type Thermocouple and could use a ol' PT-100 Thermoresistor probe but thats 3 wires to connect instead of 2 and I'm lazy and don't want to think anymore than necessary when it comes time to assemble the unit. So I'll stick with the K Type.

Low and behold you can get it cheaper by $1 from Amazon.com.

$3.84 including Free Shipping. I doubt its a domestic shipment but I'll wait to be pleasantly surprised. DONE.

LINK TO ITEM ON AMAZON (http://www.amazon.com/8-8ft-Thermocouple-Temperature-Control-Sensor/dp/B00843IKWK/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07A78PBH8KH6YEDNPBHS&dpID=41NtpQvh2dL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_)

All that is left is some thermal paste but I have plenty left over when I built my latest PC computer and needed it for attaching the massive heat pipe and fan unit to my Intel processor. So $0 for me.

So lets see
$17.70
+
$3.84
---------
$21.50


So now that the PID controller is taken care of and I have some time before all this kit arrives here domestically -- For all you existing Lee 4-20 owners, what other modificiations (physical or otherwise) are recommended to a new owner of a 4-20 to really get this pot dialed in sweet?

Cheers,
PeterD

Pretty much nails it.
I have been buying the least expensive rex c100 and if it has a relay, removing the relay and replacing it with jumpers so it controls an SSR (Solid state relay)

I also use a unit like this to control the temp on my $2 black and decker toaster oven (non convection) that I use to bake powder coating on the bullets.

[tja6435]

I've had 2 Rex PID units and both were counterfeit. The real ones that work aren't so cheap.

[Mike W1]

I've had 2 Rex PID units and both were counterfeit. The real ones that work aren't so cheap.

Depends. Mine had the heat sink and that probe with it for $25 and I've found uses for the probe.

[charlie3tuna]

I have a Lee 4-20 in 220 volt. Will this PID (mentioned in post #1) work for 220 Volts?...charlie

[10x]

I have a Lee 4-20 in 220 volt. Will this PID (mentioned in post #1) work for 220 Volts?...charlie

Some PIDs will handle 24V, 120V, and 240V. Some will handle only 240.
I have one that is only 240 -
Watch the imput voltage range on the specification sheet when you buy. If it does not mention 240V it may not be likely it will handle it.

[PeterD]

PeterD, You'll need to fashion some sort of a holder for the probe. Some also like to "lap in" the spigot rod, too to prevent dripping or leaking.

I was going to use pipe stock as mentioned in another post? -- Looked simple enough and practical. Thanks for the lapping recommendation.


Get several K-probes while yer at it. They fail occasionally and you won't have to wait for another cheap one to arrive on the slow boat if you have a few in the cabinet. :violin:

I never thought about that. But it makes sense to keep a spare on hand. I'll add in the probe again to my next Amazon order.


I have a Lee 4-20 in 220 volt. Will this PID (mentioned in post #1) work for 220 Volts?...charlie

Most gear is made in China these days and for the majority / International market which is 220-240VAC so you are usually going to get 240 support unless the manual or advertisement specifically mentions 110VAC only.

But its not the end of the world to get a 110VAC unit by bad luck as you can drive that on a tiny step-up transformer (think similar to a wall plug for most other items you buy). The important part in the whole setup is the SSR and most all support 240VAC so you can still hook your 240VAC to the SSR and your 240VAC equipment to that SSR no matter what you power the PID controller off of -- yes its more convenient to drive the PID controller as well off 240VAC but so long as you happily feed the PIDs circuit board with what it wants you are good to go.

Cheers,
PeterD

[charlie3tuna]

RE 220 Volt PID: 10X and PeterD, thank you....charlie

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have a Lee 4-20 in 220 volt. Will this PID (mentioned in post #1) work for 220 Volts?...charlie
according to the spec's in the ad, the answer is yes



★Specification:Power supply: AC 110-240V

[claudesapp]

Joined the club.

I bought the kit from the link in post #17, and the seller was great to deal with. I had two questions, and he answered both my emails within an hour, and now I have my Lee 4-20 pot set up with a PID. He included wiring instructions, and all the parts I needed. Nice.

I pretty much have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to electronics, but this was simpler than I imagined. It's just assembly, nothing difficult at all.

[P Flados]

Joined the club.

I bought the kit from the link in post #17, and the seller was great to deal with. I had two questions, and he answered both my emails within an hour, and now I have my Lee 4-20 pot set up with a PID. He included wiring instructions, and all the parts I needed. Nice.

I pretty much have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to electronics, but this was simpler than I imagined. It's just assembly, nothing difficult at all.

Congratulations on passing the "it is so easy a boolit bub can do it" test :bigsmyl2:

I was also happy with the "kit". The two big items that seem to have the widest range of "solutions" is the enclosure or "box" and deciding to either wire the SSR into the pot wiring, or just provide a "power out" receptacle.

I assembled the parts without a "box" and I have a 115 vac std plug between the SSR and the still intact original power cord for the pot.

Just out of curiosity, what approach did you take on these items?

[claudesapp]

I took the advice of using an old PC power supply for the project box. A few minutes to gut it and cut out a square for the controller face using a dremel cutoff wheel did the trick. I left the QC sticker on the power supply, going for that official product look...
I did not hard wire the SSR, I wired in a receptacle as I actually plan on using the PID for multiple pots. I also did not use the provided heat sink, I just mounted the SSR right inside the old power supply case, barely gets warm at all where it's mounted.