Lee 38spl taper crimp die

[hogstad7]

Is this die long enough to use with the 357Maxi in a Dillon 550b?
Will it post-size like the FCD?
http://leeprecision.com/taper-crimp-die-38spl.html

Edit: I see it uses a collet and requires a crimpgroove, so I guess it don't fit my needs. I need to straighten out the flare and very slightly taper crimp. Casemouth ends in the middle of a driving band on a lead bullet.

[dudel]

That Lee Taper crimp die (on the link) won't post size. You can confirm that by looking at the bottom of the die. If you don't see a ring in the die mouth (as on your sizing die), then you don't have a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp (LCFCD) die. The LCFCD also has a threaded portion on the top to set the projectile depth. See http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

I've found that the Lee dies have a much shorter threaded portion, which runs them down to the bottom thread on short cases (45 GAP for instance). On the 550b, I had to put the lock nut under the tool head. The 357 Max is a longer case than say a 357Mag, so thread length shouldn't be a problem. Thread length might be a problem if you were doing .38 S&W (which are shorter and need the die screwed down farther). I use Hornady dies for 38Spl, 357Mag, and 357Max with no problem on the 550b. I also use the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die in the 550b. It's set pretty low for 38Spl.

I wouldn't use that die for 357Max, you want to put a good, strong ROLL crimp on the round. Forget taper crimp on these rounds. You want a projectile with a cannelure to capture that crimp. You want a very strong bullet pull so that the pressure can build up. If the pressure doesn't build sufficiently on this round, you get unburnt powder, sooty brass, and extreme spreads on the velocity. It's not really a case of worrying about projectile setback or feed ramps. All the 357Max I can think of off the top of my pointy head are single shot. I've got a Contender and Handi in 357Max. They both shoot great. The crimp die that came with your 38Spl/357Mag die set would be perfect.


However, I don't shoot enough 357 Max to make loading them on my 550 useful. They get lovingly done on the RockChucker.:-)

[hogstad7]

Actually I do not want a roll crimp in in this case. NOE 180sil seated close to lands in a Contender pistol to optimize accuracy. Need taper crimp.

[Motor]

I've never seen a pistol FCD that has a seating plug. The adjustable plug on the top is for adjusting the amount of crimp. It had to be made this way so the case would always fully enter the die body so it would take full benefit of the post sizing ring.

A taper crimp die should not have a collet. At least I've never seen one.

OP: I understand what you are trying to do crimp wise but am not following all of it. That being said, could you use a 9mm taper crimp die to get what you are looking for? Just back off or remove the seating plug and use it to remove the mouth flair. There is only .001" to .002" difference between 9mm and .357 seems to me it should work.

Motor

[dudel]

Actually I do not want a roll crimp in in this case. NOE 180sil seated close to lands in a Contender pistol to optimize accuracy. Need taper crimp.

Check out http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=121

Re crimps and seating close to lands. Might be worth an experiment. I use Speer 180gr with cannelure. Not on the lands, and the Handi will shoot 1" groups at 100 yrds if I don't get giddy.

A case where conventional wisdom, isn't. Sort of like using spp for 22 Hornet instead of srp.

[r1kk1]

I use a taper crimp in 327 Fed Mag, 357, 41, 44 and 500 Linebaugh. No bullet jump. A taper crimp die can run the full length of the seated bullet. CH4D turned me on to taper crimping.

take care

r1kk1

[bedbugbilly]

I can't answer your question on the Lee taper being long enough for 357 Max . . . and as a taper crimp, I don't think it is made like a FCD?

I'm tryiing to rack by brain and I may be wrong but I think I had a set of Lyman dies for the 38/357/357 Max. that had a taper crimp die in it. I sold the set so I can't check but I think it had one. (I've been wrong many times before).

All I've ever heard on straight wall is "roll crimp" . . . yea, we've all heard it. But . . . in this case, I think rules are made to be broken. Example: on my 38 Colt Shorts and sometimes on my 38 Colt Longs . . . I taper crimp with a 9mm taper crimp die. They work just fine in revolvers and I've never had any "jump". In my Handi-Rifle - mine's not reamed to Max. bu I primarily use 357 brass/lead boolits - I taper crimp as well. I figure it extends the case life a little and the accuracy is just fine - like a Contender - it's a single shot so no muss/no fuss about the effect on cartridges waiting in a magazine.

As far as the link you gave - I don't see where it has a carbide sizing collet or that it needs a crimp groove? A taper crimp would normally be used on something like a 9mm (example) jacketed - I use a taper crimp on all my 9mm lead boolits whether they have a crimp groove or not - it irons out what flair/belling there is and with a slight taper, holds the boolit in place.

You might give Lyman a call and see if they do make a 39/357/357 Max taper crimp die - they would work the same as any taper crimp but would not "post size" the full length of the casing like a Lee FCD does. And . . . you might keep your eyes open on flea-bay or post a WTB here to see what you can scare up.

Good luck!

Jim

[gsdelong]

I would go one of two options the Redding profile crimp die or the ranch dog collet style 357 Crimp die on the lee site http://leeprecision.com/357-magnum-custom-collet-style-crimp-die.html

[Guesser]

My 38 taper crimp die does exactly that----taper crimp and it is a Lee die.