New AR barrel

[comuaiki]

Hello

I have an AR chambered for 223/5.56 with a 16", 1:7 twist barrel standard taper and plan to change the barrel. What I am looking for is a 18" barrel with the same taper that is capable of producing 1MOA. I am looking to keep the weight down but want increased accuracy with a bit more muzzle speed. The current barrel on the rifle only gives me about 2MOA no matter what ammo I use with one exception a 75gn Hornady which gives me a 1.5MOA. To date I have tried about a dozen different factory loads randing from 55gn to 75gn and have not had much luck with accuracy on this platform. I would prefer to stay at a 69gn bullet for most of my shooting since I can still get economical ammo at this weight range, heaver than that the cost of factory ammo tends to escalate and when I shoot I like to shoot at least 100-200 rounds per outing. I have not handloaded for this rifle yet but if I can't get any decient grouppings with factory ammo I am not sure this rifle will do any better with handloads.

Does anyone have a good suggestion where to look for such a barrel and not break the piggy bank.

Thanks...

[David2011]

Hello

. . .since I can still get economical ammo at this weight range, heaver than that the cost of factory ammo tends to escalate and when I shoot I like to shoot at least 100-200 rounds per outing. I have not handloaded for this rifle yet but if I can't get any decient grouppings with factory ammo I am not sure this rifle will do any better with handloads.

Thanks...

Welcome to CastBoolits, neighbor!

Sounds just like my rifle. I tried a large combination of cheap factory ammo, powders, charge weights, primers and mil-spec bullets and was consistently dissatisfied with the accuracy.

One day I seated some Sierra MatchKings with absolutely no other changes. First five rounds made one connected hole. It shoots any high quality bullet well- sub .5moa- but it's terrible (2-4 moa) with cheap bullets whether in factory ammo or handloads. If you have the equipment on hand to try some handloads with quality bullets that's less expensive than any barrel.

David

[akajun]

I think you will realize more accuracy gains with a true free float handguard and two stage match trigger than by replacing that bArrell. With a 1-7 twist 69gr ammo is the lowest I would go for accuracy .

[osteodoc08]

Don't give up yet on the barrel. Free float it and get a better trigger. The Ruger drop in trigger is pretty nice and not as expensive as the others. With a new barrel or not, you'll want a FF for end and a better trigger anyhow. Then if the barrel isn't performing, consider swapping it out.

[Houndog]

There's LOTS more that goes into an accurate rifle than just the barrel! Just a few questions: What kind of sights are you using? Have you squared the front of the ring your barrel extension mates to? Are the bolt lugs ALL seating equally in the barrel extension? Are the upper and lower castings mating tightly, but without binding? Have you checked the bolt carrier and bolt for binding? How about binding in the charging handle and bolt carrier and the bore in the upper reciever? What kind of stock are you using/ (fixed or colapsable) Have you checked the buffer tube, buffer and spring for burrs or binding? Is the flash hider bore concentric with the barrel bore and the bullet exit face square? Lastly, has the rifle been assembled with ALL tolerances in spec and ALL torque specs followed to the letter? ANY and all of these will play havoc with accuracy.

MY recomendations for an accurate AR15 are as follows"

FORGET the light weight barrel! They are nice handling, but a heavier barrel will be more accurate! A non chrome lined barrel will be more accurate because the non platd bore is more consistant. It doesn't matter if it is Stainless or chrome molly. Both will shoot well, but Stainless tends to last a bit longer and machines smoother. My own match AR wears a 20 inch Kreiger barrel in HBAR profile with a 1/9 twist. It works fine with bullets weighing 69 grains or less. A floating forend is a must! there's no chance of putting pressure on the barrel and shifting point of impact. I use a standard fixed stock in A2 profile. No wiggling around! Use a QUALITY M16 bolt and bolt carrier! That's what was designed for the rifle. The stock trigger is reliable, but THEY SUCK, unless tweaked by someone like Bill Springfield. He reworked mine and it breaks cleanly at 5 1/2 pounds. I can't use an aftermarket trigger on this rifle. If I could it would be a Jewell or Gissele.

Feed em QUALITY match grade ammo and you will be a happy camper!

There are other combinations that work as well, but I know this one works for me!

[dragon813gt]

I have not handloaded for this rifle yet but if I can't get any decient grouppings with factory ammo I am not sure this rifle will do any better with handloads.


You're thinking is wrong. One of the points of hand loading is to create more accurate ammo than factory offerings. While accurate factory ammo is nice. I don't make changes to a firearm based on it's performance. If I can't work up a load for it then it's time to decide what needs to be changed.

[country gent]

On the AR platforms severl things besides the barrel can affect accuracy. As has been stated above s free loat tube or handgaurd helps. Also check the gas block front sight mount and flash hider for binds or beeing to tight. Taper pins driven in to hard can create tight spots in barrels, a flash hider to tight and the threads may slightly compress the muzzle. Gas tubes that bind thru nut / reciever can cause issues with harmonics. A gas tube rubbing binding in the key also affects accuracy. All of these should be looked at before barrel replacement. Other than the Float tube they are cheap fixes. If your heart is set on a new barrel a 18" or 20" Krieger 1-8 or 1-9 will be impressive once everything is tuned to it after its installed.