Bedding with jb weld

[corey012778]

I am planning to bed a stock. Jpw for a release agent. I have the 6min mix and the 6 hour set mix. Which would be the best to use.

i keep the 6min quick weld for repairs so I keep that on hand. The 6hour I bought just for these project if need be.

[William Yanda]

Since fit is the goal rather than adhesion, unless you need more working time, I see no advantage in the slow set.
Regards
Bill

[mwells72774]

I'm curious as to the process? I've got a couple I wouldn't mind bedding.

[David2011]

Sorry to have to disagree but since the ultimate goal is durability I don't know why you would use the fast stuff. The slow cure will be much harder. In either case you should leave the barreled action in place over night so you're not really saving any time. Fast cure epoxies, and that's what it is, don't have time to penetrate into the wood before they cure and can lose their grip after a while. If you're working in summer heat that will decrease the time to gel. If in air conditioning it won't matter, you'll have 4-5 minutes to get the barrel in place with the 6 minute if you're comfortable with that. If I need the strength of an epoxy product I have time to use a slow cure formula. All I use fast cure for is to tack things together that will be separated later. I've tried to rush things enough in my lifetime that I finally learned it wasn't a good idea. I've adopted the philosophy to take the time required to do a good job, always.

Edited: Only William had posted when I started writing. I also agree that there are many better choices including Acraglas Gel and WEST Epoxy with milled glass fibers. They will both adhere well and cure hard.

David

[mwells72774]

The local cabelas has bedding kits. Think I'll go that route.

[corey012778]

Since fit is the goal rather than adhesion, unless you need more working time, I see no advantage in the slow set.
Regards
Bill
Reason, I don't have that much time between work and my wife's planning stuff all the time. So I was kinda hoping I could use the faster set.

These is my first bedding job. Lots of research on these site and other sites.

[David2011]

You might also read all of Goodsteel's posts on this page regarding release agents. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?283905-Acraglas-release-agent/page2

Since a bedding job needs to sit overnight and it's OK to sit longer than that, the wife's planning shouldn't be an issue.

[corey012778]

that is one of the threads I been watching. keep up with it pretty good.

[country gent]

Accrara glass gel, bisonite, marine tex, ad others are desighned to be low shrinkage and long working times. By the time you spend 1-3 mins mixing the fast cure you dont have much time left. Getting it spread and even in the stock and cut outs. then the barreled action in place and properly alighned can take a few mins. Also it is easier to clean uup excess while soft rather than cured with a wood popcycle stick and the end cut square. What I use to bed depends on several things. bedding area of the rifle, caliber, what its use is for. A M1A or Garand has much less bedding surface than most bolt actions. Single shots bedding the tangs on a pillar to allievate wood crush. Heavy recoiling rifles ( large caliber heavy bullets are harder on bedding than varmint rifles. In order and use perfered, Bisonite steel bed for M1As Garands and heavy recoiling rifles. This bedding has a wonderfull work time and cures out very nicely. Very little shrink when cured holds up well and can be died to match. Accra Glass gel for bolt actions light recoiling or larger bedding areas. Shrinkage isnt normally a problem with it. comes with black or brown die packs ( a little goes a long ways). Decent work time cures nicely. Marine tex is about the same as accra glass gel in use. It seems a little harder and hence slightly more brittle. It dies well and works well. Bisonite you want to clean up as much as possible before cured since once hardened it will dull carbide burrs and files quickly. Another trick is to put the epoxy in the refridgerator for a few hours before starting this slows the cure and gives more work time. Have everything you need handy and in place. Clamps rough set to use, rags solvents, spreaders, mixing cups, sticks, a cradle for the rifle already to go before the epopxy is even opened. Give all metal 2 coats of release agent. plug all holes cutouts with modeling clay or play dough to stop mechanical locks. HAve any shims needed for the barrel channel cut and ready to go.

[LAGS]

Stay with the SLOW SET.
You have to make the time to work on your guns.
And it is in the preperation and settin the action in the stock that takes up the time.
Going to a Fast cure is not going to speed things up one bit.
Fast Cure Sets Up faster, but is not fully cured until it sets overnight.
So if you pull it apart any sooner, you just screwed up your bedding.
Plus like was said by someone else, the slow set is harder.
You are already using something that is not the Optimal Material. Dont build in any more disadvantages.

I also tell people I teach how to do glass bedding.
Once the action is back in the stock with the bedding compound.
Then you hang a Sign on the rifle that has the letters D.D.W.I
that means, Dont Dink With It.
Let it fully cure overnight before you touch anything.

[corey012778]

I should have the next two days to do the bedding. was planning to use two days for these. one days for the set and cure. next day hope to pop it Monday after work. so should be over 24hrs.

[LAGS]

Allow time to make you Sign.
And I am not Kidding.It is so tempting to pull everthing apart too early , either because you cant wait to see how it looks, or you fear you forgot a step and just glued your action to the stock.
Take your time, Do it right
If you loosen things up before things are cured and try to set if back in the stock, even a little but, you will create air bubbles between your metal and the bedding.
Put he release on the metal, the JB Weld in the stock and set it in ONCE and Do Not clamp down the barrel, only the receiver.
Do as many DRY RUNS with your action and barrel going into your stock as you need to, BEFORE you put the release on your metal.
You do not want to transfer release agent on to your stock.
Once the release agent is on the metal, you set it in ONCE.
And that is after you put the JB Weld or bedding compound in the stock, and NEVER try to lift it up for any reason until it is cured. You will just make air pockets, and possibly bare spots in your release agent.
That is the surest way to get the barrel or action Glued to the stock.

[M-Tecs]

6min quick weld will not give you enough time.

This is a pretty good series on bedding. This is the first one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GItWubJX6VY

[LAGS]

I have used JB Weld or other fast setting Epoxies for POINT Bedding, or stock Fill ins on Low recoil rifles , mostly 22's.
But then I have 30 Years experience with bedding rifles, and know all the aspects of how to do things and not get in trouble.
Your first Bedding Job may not go as smooth as you think or you see in the you tube Videos.
They make it sound so easy, but seldom explain what to do if you have a problem, or if what they are bedding is not Exactly the same as what you are working on.
I taught myself how to bed rifles, and found out how wrong I was once I took the classes.
But then we didn't have computers back then, but we had books, and they barely explained the high points.
What works on one style of action , doesn't always mean it works on All actions.
And I hope you decided just to Point Bed your first action rather than Jump into trying to do a full stock or action bed the first time.

[akajun]

Devcon steel putty will give you about 20-30 mins of pot life, and it does not run, I may sag a little but not much. Marine tex is my second choice, it only has a 6-10 minute pot life .

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I agree about the slow versions being best, and JB weld should be fine. There should be cheaper products, but how much is a well done rifle bedding job worth? I recently got very good results, including measuring the channel and trying to insert a .001in. feeler gauge afterwards, with clear Devcon slow epoxy which came in two polythene bottles. ,One benefit of the slow version is that you can allow it to extrude past the diameter of the barrel, and cut the surplus away with a home-made brass blade while it is no longer sticky but firm and carvable.

Apparent shrinkage of the epoxy can sometimes be because the wood underneath is too thin. I like to leave a wooden stock for two or three weeks to settle down after cutting the barrel channel. It is surprising how even well seasoned wood has a little settling down to do. In the past I have embedded a strip of fiberglass cloth under the barrel. My latest job was a single shot rifle with a lighter 21in. barrel than I though desirable, and a Mannlicher forend. So I first glass bedded a 12in. length of 1/2in, square steel bar into the barrel channel, with the single mounting screw passing through it, and the front sling swivel threaded into its forward extremity.

[Litl Red 3991]

Hey BinScotland,
The square steel bar is a good touch for sure. For cheap rifles maybe I'd guess some might consider using rebar? ...;-)...

I'm betting you don't fly model airplanes. They've been using carbon fiber reinforcing for decades, long enough that you can find rods and such at almost affordable prices. (almost nothing nowadays is priced AT affordable prices) For rifles that don't benefit from added weight up front, a 1/8" CF rod would stabilize that barrel channel nicely.

My local model airplane hobby shop has a section with tubes, rods, rolls and such. They've also got glass cloth, more exotic cloths, flox, silica, and a bunch of goodies in amounts modelers (or gun nuts) might need.

Just a suggestion for them that do more than just reload....

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Betting? Where do we send the money if you win? I did, but a long time ago, and my Landrover aerial is currently replaced with copper wire inside a carbon fibre tube grafted into the original screw.

Both the rifle (Belgian Martini in .40-65 or possibly something European which is interchangeable with it) and myself are both older than carbon fibre. I remember epoxy in the early 60s, and am not sorry weight suggested only one modern material at a time. I hear you can now get plastic stocks... and trees.

Otherwise I think I would favour carbon tube, which could be drilled for from the front or rear, and would also provide a fine anchor for a forend cap. Modelmaking shops can indeed provide a wealth of materials, K&S metal tubing being another.

I like your avatar picture. Western movies declaim on the immorality of selling repeating rifles to the Indians, but in open country Geronimo had a certain amount of logic on his side, in being a trapdoor Springfield man.

[Jim_P]

You can do it that way. It' be wrong!

Do you have any idea if JB Weld will withstand Bore Solvents? I don't

There is nothing there to provide compressive strength. JB Weld will begin to crack after a certain amount of compression. Do you know what it is compared to AcraGlas for example (which is a nylon derivative epoxy formula).? I don't.

You also need something that will flow well and give you time to adjust the screw tension. When I bed an action, I don't crank the crud out of the screws. I tighten, and re-tighten every half hour for 3 to 4 hours to settle the action into the stock. To make it consistent, I use a torque wrench. If the epoxy is hardened in 10 minutes, there is no way to have a consistent, complete bed. Oh, and unless you're the flash or something, I don't think you can mix the epoxy, spread it and reassemble the weapon before the 5, or even 30 minute epoxy is ready and gelling. Let alone let it flow into areas you put an air pocket or missed altogether.

Me - AcraGlas and Powdered Stainless Steel 50/50 epoxy to stainless.

[Blackwater]

I know just enough about epoxies to know how much there is that I don't know. I've used mostly Microbed and Accraglass for all the jobs I've done, which is only about 40 or more, and many here have done more than I have. I also used Marine Tex on a couple, and it worked really well, too. It has a really strong adhesion, which may be a plus or a minus depending on what happens during your efforts.

I'm solidly with those on the slow set variety, no matter the brand chosen and used. A big factor in doing a really good job, and they CAN be mussed up, is having enough time to see that the barreled action and stock fit just right. If you don't get that, then you're really not doing as much good, probably, as you're really going to want when the job's done. The slower set time of the slow cures gives you more latitude to err, and find something at the last minute that you want to change. If this is your first bedding job, that could be a real problem. You simply MUST be SURE that the barreled action fits right, and that ANYTHING you don't want to get stuck is thoroughly and completely covered with your chosen release agent. Don't allow any holes, like in triggers, etc., to get filled with the bedding compound and thus, stick the action in the stock pretty well permanently. This is crucial. I normally wrap my triggers, if I don't take them off completely, with tape, and then cover that with release agent.

Bedding a stock isn't something you do lightly or casually, unless you want trouble. I've had a couple of friends who've stuck their guns together because they didn't listen and tried to hurry the job up too much. I've only had one get stuck, which was unfortunately, for one of my favorite shootin' buddies, and it really took a monumental effort to get the barreled action and stock apart. There was only about a 1/8" by 3/4" area that was stuck, and you can't believe how hard it was to get that gun apart, so watch out, go carefully, think EVERYTHING through before moving on anything, and you'll likely wind up VERY pleased with the result. In my experience, bedding can and often DOES make a rather significant, if not sometimes HUGE difference in the accuracy you can get with refined accuracy loads in your gun, but it can be a very demanding project, so read all you can, absorb it completely so you'll know what traps lay ahead, potentially, and then just learn as you go. That's really the only way to learn to do it right and consistently. But it also pays off very well, too. A good bedding job, and a little fine tuning of the trigger (another thing you need to really understand before diving in) will usually get most any off the shelf factory sporter shooting sub MOA. Maybe not EVERY one of them, but the vast majority of them, IF, of course, you're shooting off a bench with good rests fore and aft, and using good technique. It's amazing how many "inaccurate" rifles I've been through that just needed some load development, bedding and trigger work, that came out as gilt edged hunting rifles. It's a skill that'll really pay off, but like all skills, requires careful and intent study, judicious application, and care to get what you're really looking for. Given, that, it's amazing what it can sometimes do. Good luck!

[LAGS]

A Question ;
Are you just bedding the front lug area and back Tang ?
And what are you using for a Guide Screw when you set your action and barrel back in the stock ?
I dont have any long Guide Screws that have the thread for the Nagant receiver.
So I used a 4" long section of 1/4" wood dowel threaded into the Front action screw hole. with release agent in it of course
It acts as the guide, and plugs the waxed Hole on the recoil lug.
Then when everything is cured, you can pull the dowel out thru the bottom of the stock with pliers, and for final fitting the hole can be drilled a little larger for the action screw.
I take it you will be bedding your bottom metal seperatly, and after the action is bedded ?
Or did you already bed your bottom metal at both front and rear tangs, and that will give you your alignment for your action to be dropped in ?
On a MN it can be done either way.
I usually bed my action with the internal inletting in the stock like for the trigger space and magazine well filled with clay.
Then I bed the bottom metal to tighten it up in the inletting.

[corey012778]

after all of the post on these thread. I am about to say forget and just order the shim kits that are out there. or make the shims. at least I have done that in the past

[Safeshot]

I like to use the "SLOW" cure "Epoxy" with fiber glass fibers and aluminum flakes or powdered stainless steel and some carbon black or brown pigment (to help stop light and its effects). I think it is very important to have the epoxy saturate/penetrate into the grain of the wood. It does not take any longer to apply the "Slow Cure" stuff and some extra working time can be a big help. Also agree that it is best not to "rush the curing". Give it an "extra" 24 or 48 hours before disturbing it. Just my opinion.

[LAGS]

Dont ever settle for the EASY way out.
The Shims take a bit of Knowledge to get them to fit your action to your stock.
Plus, If you start simple, and take your time, You are banking Knowledge for your Next Project, or for this Project if you want to in the future try a more complicated bedding job.
We are here to TEACH You.
Years ago I started with a MN and point bedded it, then point bedded the Bottom Metal.
What a differance, so then that gave me the confidance about 6 months later, to grind out the bedding, and do both the barrel and action this time with the barrel Free floated.
The handguard had a crack in it, so then I was able to use my bedding Knowledge to fix it with epoxy like I was bedding a barrel channel. (I sold that rifle 10 years ago but Still have that Handguard)
If you need more detailed help, then PM myself, or some of the other members.
Now that I got my computer to be able to post pictures, I am sure I can be of more help.

That First MN was rebuilt at least 5 times from 1977 til 1995.
I learned a lot from that one rifle, and a friend of a friend is still shooting it.

[LAGS]

OK,
I found this stock in my closet.
It is an ATI plastic stock, that I point bedded with JB Weld
I also installed an 1/8" aluminum shim to the stock since it was so poorly fitted from the factory.
I did the front receiver area but not the barrel rear, the rear Tang and the built a spot up at the tip of the stock that has Zero up pressure, but fits the contour if the barrel.
I also bedded the front tang on the bottom metal to insure there was the proper compression on the front action screw when it was tightened down and does not warp or bind the magazine.
This improved the stock greatly. but I like wood stocks better, so this one just sits in the closet for Horse Trading away or some other future project.
(It has been in the closet for 8 years I think)

BTW
the trigger well was also inletted for the Timney trigger, and that is why you cant see the whole rear action screw hole.

[corey012778]

Was going hit the area with sand paper to rough up the wood.

[LAGS]

You might take up to a 1/16" of wood off in critical areas.
Remember, your stock has been exposed to Oil over the years, and that can act a a release agent.
On Oily stocks, I drill a series of 1/8" diameter holes in critical areas th act as anchors for the epoxy.
I do the same on Plastic Stocks, because epoxy doesnt want to stick to most plastics.
But you can see in the pic's what areas are needed to get the action to set in the stock solidly.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I doubt if there are many benchresters using anything but fully floated barrels. There is no doubt that this is the way to the ultimate accuracy in ideal conditions. The surest way to make anything consistent, is to make it consistently zero. But there are problems in taking that into more everyday shooting, and I don't consider them entirely absent from bedding the forend tip and floating the rest.

Floating a sporter-weight forend by the thickness of a business card is a snare and a delusion. If you use a shooting sling, you exert some sideways tension that may produce contact. Dirt can easily fill that gap, and water will stay in there, and travel along it, by capillary action. Water is pretty hard stuff when things happen quickly enough, as a bad high-diver can show you, and that is motion far slower than barrel flip. That is even without the water turning into ice. A narrow gap doesn't do much for even cooling of the barrel circumference either. Nearly all heat insulating materials involve trapped and static air.

I'd keep floated barrels for rifles on which you can leave a gap wide enough to get a towel or string through. Otherwise I would just bed the full length of the forend. Done simple, the tiniest change of shape can change from pressure to no pressure. One idea which I think gave good results (though I never tried the same rifle glass-bedded without it) was to incorporate a piece of high melting-point rubber sheet in the tip of the forend. When you dismantled the rifle, you could feel that rubber pad rising very slightly proud of the epoxy.

I'm sure there is nothing at all wrong with Accraglas, although I would have to buy it from overseas, and their cheapest kit comes just over the £15 threshold which would let me in for import taxes and an iniquitous admin charge. I don't like giving money to governments. It only encourages them. As to whether general-products are as good, Brownells also tell us their blue paint-on release agent is the best for the job because... I am sure there is a "because" in it someplace. But it isn't what people in the recent thread on release agents say. I suspect that some contract supplier somewhere is filling Brownells-marked tubs and bottles from just the same epoxy vat as they do other people's.

[nekshot]

Lags, has that stock been thru the rodeo of shooting? I never dreamed JB would hold up like that. Maybe my JB is too old. I buy some for a little job and then it sets in storage for a year or 2 and doesn't seem to work as good as when new. I am a strict agra glass gel guy for most anything in this nature.

[corey012778]

I have the bedding setting with the barrel. clock is on. 24+ hours of wait. it is not going to be that bad. started working on other projects to work on. sadly it is in my way right now for those lol

[Shooter6br]

PC7 is a good choice

[LAGS]

That ATI MN stock was shot a lot.
It was on the rifle all the time I was making a wood stock for that action and has been on a couple other actions while I was refinishing the stocks on those rifles.
That is why you can see a few Dremmel Sanding disc scratches on the sides behing the recoil lug , where I had to sand it just a little wider to fit a different action than what it was originally bedded for.
Everything held up just fine.

[LAGS]

Corey.
Did you make your Sign ?
Pictures of how you clamped it would help too.
I cant wait to see how it turned out.

[corey012778]

no, just moved after hitting it once or twice in the corner of my shop that is out of the way. forgot the paper. not going to touch it till I get my nap from work and figure out what I am fixing for dinner. feeding the beast that run around my house (2 dogs and a kitten). lol

[corey012778]

used large plastic spring clamps.

note: just showing type of clamp I used.
146377

[ak_milsurp]

I've used JB Weld, in the industrial size package for YEARS... NEVER had a problem with it. I save all my brass trimmings from grooming cases and add it into the JB weld mixture. Adds strength.... And helps strength.....

[ak_milsurp]

Damn autocorrect!! Makes a great bedding compound very strong, stable and heat resistant

[LAGS]

I too have added Metal shavings to JB Weld to Beef It Up.
When I am done filing metal like making and polishing parts, I take an old speaker magnet and run it across my bench and the floor to pick up the metal filings before I sweep up.
That is saved and put aside for adding to epoxy.
I also use steel wool that has been rinsed off in acetone, or like you said, brass trimmings.
The epoxy mixed with metal also makes it transfer electricity, like if I am epoxying nuts to a steel plate to use when I am powder coating bullets.

Corey
Your clamping is perfect.
That should keep the receiver down right where you need it.

[LAGS]

One note,
I noticed that you did not put tape on the outside of your stock.
I always do that and put release agent on the tape to prevent any epoxy that gets on it from sticking.
It is better to get into the habbit of protecting the outside of the stock even on a Bare stock.
You will have bedding jobs that the epoxy has to Spooge out to fill all the way up along the sides of the receiver and barrel channel. and then be removed while it is setting up , but not fully cured.
The tape prevents it from running onto your stock when it overflows, and sticking to the stock.
The tape also protects the stock if you end up getting epoxy on your hands, and grab the rifle.

[MBTcustom]

I just want to put my 2 cents in here for any who are interested.
There are only two bedding compounds I recomend and use (although, JB is an excellent choice other than the fact that it's so runny. I prefer a more viscous compound).
These two are Acraglass and Devcon 10-110, with Devcon being the one I always try to use. The only drawback to 10-110 is its grey color. On high end rifles I use Acraglass because it can be stained to be more visually appealing to the eye. However, Acraglass is not filled, and as such it will shrink slightly, and you just don't get that awesome fit that 10-110 provides (JB weld is filled to a lesser extent, but shrinks very little.)

The main consideration when bedding a rifle is preparation and skilled execution.
It is important to apply the epoxy with the act of cracking things out later kept in mind at all times. Also, it is imperative to hold the action in place with just enough pressure to set things in their correct position. Too little, and you will have issues. Too much and you wasted your time.
For a very in depth and well explained tutorial on bedding a rifle, I suggest you read everything this man has to say on his site, and buy his tools if you require them:
http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i130.html
I had my own ideas on what it takes to properly bed a rifle, based on observation of pressure and its effect on the components of the rifle, and Ernie the gunsmith pretty much backs up everything I believe to be correct, and for the same reasons. His site is richly embellished with instructions and demonstrations with pictures and I was excited to see someone who understands things like I do. Educate yourself by reading what he has to say and you cannot go wrong. The difference between a world class matchgrade bedding job and a garage shop hack job is in the preparation and execution.

The final thing I will leave you with is an observation I have made after bedding many many rifles and cleaning up after others who tried to do it:
The amateur gunsmith gets bedding compound EVERYWHERE. It gets on the stock, on the barrel, on the bench, on the gunsmith, on the trash can, and on the roll of paper towels.

The professional gunsmith also gets it in the rifle where it belongs.

[sundog]

Years ago, my 'bedding mentor' taught me using Acra Glass Gel and Brownell's Release agent (the paint on blue stuff). I've seen JB Weld and Devcon jobs. Any of them, done properly, are awesome. I like being able to stain the Acra Glass. I also make ample use of masking tape, modeling clay, tongue depressors and popcycle sticks, and stretchy bands for holding things together at the 'right' tension. I was also taught how to build a 'just so' trestle in the barrel channel, when needed, out of match sticks to provide relief. I will defer to Tim on the shrinkage issue - no doubt he is correct. The only other thing I can think of is setting the screws to the right pressure, and then knowing when to back them off a tad to insure they are not glued in place. I'm sure everyone has a little different technique. And don't forget to bed trigger guards and floor plates.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

You can stain any translucent epoxy, although with the fast ones having to mix it with only one component makes it harder to judge the tone. All manner of paste and powder epoxy stains are available commercially, although sometimes in pack sizes that are expensive and would last you several lifetimes. Brownells brown paste stain is fine, and also their black powder which I suspect of being lamp black, and available far cheaper as such on eBay.

I got good results with a few crystals of brown fabric dye mixed with a small quantity of alcohol for enough time to let some of the alcohol evaporate. There was no loss of hardness that I could detect.

[flint45]

Ihave done some small bedding jobs with both fast and slow Ilike the slow much better.Big jobs I like Acra glass gel.

[nicholst55]

I see a lot of people writing about using JB Weld for bedding on various forums. I've even seen one gunsmith offering it as an option. Maybe I'm just old fashioned, but I believe in using tried and true products for a job like that. JB Weld may work just fine, but I'm not willing to be a test subject. In my humble opinion, the two main reasons to use JB Weld are its relatively low price and ready availability. In the past, if you wanted to use Devcon Steel, you had to buy a rather large amount, but I see where it's now available in small tubes similar to JB Weld for a pretty reasonable price. Granted, you can't buy it at Wal Mart or Home Depot; you have to order it from somewhere like Brownells. I think I'm going to sit back and watch, and see how this turns out.

[LAGS]

I am not an advocate of JB Weld for bedding jobs, but have done many with it, and will use it again.
My whole focus was to get a New person to join the Bedding Fraternaty, with a product that he has easy access to, is not too expensive, and easy to work with on his first bedding job.
He has to build skills as he does more and more rifles, or if he decides to do a different bedding job on this rifle down the road.
Even if his first bedding job is not Perfect, he at least did not have to invest in something like Acra glass, and then decide Bedding wasnt for him, and have unused products sitting on the shelf.
Or have to wait for the mail to bring his delivery in a week or so.
But I trust with all of our help and shared experience, this will not be the OP's last bedding job.
Then he can make the investment in Professional Products if the type of firearms dictates it.
But for a Temporary Project stock, the JB Weld more than fills the bill.
And for Corey,
Please no matter what others will say, about your bedding job, or your Methods.
You are here to learn, and you will soon be doing more complicated Bedding, and banking your knowledge for that Perfect Rifle down the road.( Trust me, that road isnt too long )

[corey012778]

lags your right, these is a learning stock. a few methods I never used on a stock in being done here. I have a stock that is going to be used for these gun setting in my shop waiting for over all measurements and a little more research on how to do it.

pulled the barrel it was not perfect but I am pretty happy with my first try. have the trigger guard and floor plate clamped down and on a 24hour wait. figured since I am waiting I would go and start my next project. I have a long wait time to buy the rest of the parts.

[LAGS]

I cant wait to see how the bedding turned out.
You say it wasnt perfect, but was it acceptable, and can you figure out where you may have gone wrong, or been able to do things differently ?
There are so many finer points that you will learn as you do more rifles, and there is no way to teach you all of them, so Experience and trial and error have to step in.
But as long as you are happy with how it turned out, and I am sure it was acceptable, or you would not have proceded to bedding the bottom metal

[LAGS]

@ corey
We are all waiting on pins and needles to see how it turned out.
But I forgot, Tonight is Bowling Night.

[corey012778]

had a family dinner tonight skipped bowling last night for that league thank god. give a few have to up load pics

[corey012778]

forget I have fast wifi.

think I went a little heavy here146553

little light here and something wrong. 146554


did tape, but it was old and did not stick to well. I think I did well. 146555


for a first try I am happy

[LAGS]

Yes you did well.
You should have bedded all around the recoil lug and back from where you did the barrel rear at the lug about 1/2"
If you look at the pictures of the stock I did, See the area where the Aluminum shim is ?
That should have an Epoxy bed on that if a shim is not used.
You can still bed that area seperatly without changing anything else.
The rear tang is fine for Grey epoxy.
But if you were using a epoxy that was closer to the stock color, the rear tang could have been bedded all around the back to help with the limiting rearward movement of the action.
I say matching Epoxy , because you put the epoxy on the bottom, and when the action is set in, it will let the epoxy Spooge Upward around the rear lug forcing air out.
That is why you tape off the stock.
The only thing that Concerns me is the pocket for the Ejector.
That is hard to bed and make sure it still clears the ejector /Cartridge feed limiter.
I made a Nylon block the shape of that pocket and bed it seperatly usually first, then the action.
But that area has nothing to do with accuracy.
I only epoxy coat it to weatherproof the stock on a Full Glass bed job.

Now remember;
If you are not satisfied, you can always take a Dremmel Tool and grind any point out and redo it, All or just part.
But the action will now be anchored and aligned properly.
Question;
Looking in the ejection port with the magazine attached and tightened down.
Is the Feed lip in the same position as it would be if the magazine was attached to the action without the stock on it.
That is the check that you didnt bed the action or magazine too shallow.
Or have the magazine Canted from front to back.
Put the magazine on the action with the screws finger tight, and level with the bottom of the receiver.
Then look in the open ejection port for visual referances.
Now put both on your stock and see if it is the same with the screws Equally Snug but not cranked down.
You did bed the action with the cross bolt in ? I cant tell in the pictures.
And the Bottom of the recoil lug shound have come out perfectly molded to the bottom to act as a Pillar for the recoil lug when the action screw is tight.

[corey012778]

The bedding in the ejector notch was over flow. Opted out of doing the shim, just wanted done, and did not have a thin enought aluminum to make one. I did not get the lug. I thought I got that area well, but didnot.

next time, I am going to get a bedding epoxy. Got a idea of what I am doing now.

If anyone was wondering jpw for release agent

[LAGS]

You are learning.
I had to shave the stock down to install the aluminum shim on mine and then Bed the bottom of the shim.
But I would have been ahead just bedding that area to my action, and like I said, it is not too late to do that area on yours.
You say you dont have a recoil Lug ?
I make them out of a wood dowel epoxyed in the hole and then bedded with the recoil lug.
You dont need a Cross bolt. but you need something back there for the action to recoil against.
Heck, you can plug both sides of the stock and fill the cross bolt area with epoxy.
I have a Million cheap tricks of how to do things on these rifles and others.

[corey012778]

I have a recoil lug. just did not get enough jb weld in to bed it. I have to clean that area out and try again maybe.

[LAGS]

Your rifle will shoot just fine the way it is, so you can make that Deer Season.
Then next year or in the dead of winter when you have nothing to do, you can pull out this rifle and try to make improvements.
There is no rush, unless you are planning to sell the rifle ?

[corey012778]

Not these one. Will selling two ml and a ruger 96/22. Funds for a mini mill. Or funds for more guns

[LAGS]

Use the funds for more Guns right now. IMO
With politics the way they are, get the guns now.
Then you have something to build your hand skills with, and you will know how to do things with out having to rely on a machine.
I doubt if any politician is going to Outlaw Machine Tools, or have an Instant background check on them in the future

[David2011]

I have a recoil lug. just did not get enough jb weld in to bed it. I have to clean that area out and try again maybe.

Looks good so far. Bedding the back side of the recoil lug is pretty important. The front side doesn't need to be bedded. I would also try to get the area behind the tang bedded. You want to support the action which you have done but you also want the bedding to provide intimate contact in the recoil absorbing areas so the action and stock are locked together as if one piece. If you have a fiberglass supply place nearby they will probably carry gel coat pigments. I got 4 ounce bottles of each for about $9.00 iirc. It's easy to find on the web as well. A four ounce jar of that stuff will do dozens if not hundreds of bedding jobs. It might even successfully tint JB Weld. I would mix it into one part of the JB Weld before mixing the resin and hardener together. Like LAGS said, you can always grind a little out and re-surface it if you're not satisfied. Also like he said, it WILL work as is. Touch it up when the weather keeps you inside.

David

[corey012778]

wont be doing any work on these gun for a few days which is sanding, screw up my right shoulder. again. sanding will kill me right now.

[LAGS]

I thought you said you have a wife.
Teach her to sand.
Make it a Family Project.
When I was married, my wife did help me with my guns, but when they were finished, she thought they were hers.

[corey012778]

she already is going to help with part of it. I prefer doing the sanding my self.

[LAGS]

You are just worried that she will claim the rifle when it is done.
I know it is going to turn out great.

[LAGS]

You said at one time that you thought about filling in the finger grooved on the forestock with Bondo and painting the stock.
If you intend to do that, I would suggest that you do not put the Cross bolt back in.
Make a cross plug /recoil lug out of a peice of wood dowel and bed the recoil lug pocket on the stock.
Then the slots can be Bondo'ed over, and there is no chance of the Bondo cracking around the head of the cross bolt and you have a Slick Sided stock.
How do I know this ?
Been there, done that.
But if you choose to reinstall the Metal Cross bolt, You can File down the Domed ends on the nut and cross bolt so they are flat and make them fit flush with the stock.

Are you going to fill in the slot in the stock from the cleaning rod before you do the barrel channel ?
Just glue wood in there, or use bondo to fill that part in .
Saves on the bedding compound.

[corey012778]

no I filled in the indention where the rear barrel band went. thinking about finding some textured rubber somewhere and fitting them to the finger grooves. going to cover the stock with wood grain vinyl. little cheaper then wood laminate sheets. coat or two of sealant on the stock. I have some mini wax 1 step left from where I refinished my 96/22. going to put that down the barrel channel. would have to sand down the barrel channel more to get the vinyl.

someone suggested in another thread about these same gun that I should paint the stock black. if I was going to paint the stock. I would do a camo then clear coat the paint.

[LAGS]

You saw my AKMN Nagant.
That was done in Black Wrinkle Paint.
Now that your action is set, you can sand the barrel channel and can get a uniform clearance.
You can also sand for clearance say about 1/16" and then put a layer of 10 mil tape on the barrel, then glass bed the barrel channel.
When you pull the tape off the barrel, you now have a 10 thousands built in Free float on your barrel and the barrel channel is sealed.

[corey012778]

I have sanded the barrel channel, did that when I finished the nose. need to sand where I bedded the action and it flowed into to the barrel channel.


10 mil tape
had to research that. I have electric tape and aluminum duct tape. I am thinking the electrical tape may work best. what I have on hand. a coat or two of jpw?

[LAGS]

10 mil tape is what the plumbers and electricians use to wrap their Galvanized piped when the are going to be burried or incased in concrete.
It looks like Electrical tape, and is 2" wide and is .010" thick.
It also comes in 20 mil thickness.
Home Depot or Lowes should have it.
You do not Wrap the tape around the barrel.
You run a strip of it the length of the barrel and wrap it up the sides of the barrel.
That gives you one continious strip with no ridges.
Now I saw no bedding in the barrel channel on your rifle that would have to be removed.
The bedding usually is in contact with the first 2" of the barrel ahead of the action, IE the chamber area of the barrel, or the FAT part, and then free floated forward of that.

[corey012778]

did not find it at lowes so I ended up ordering it. going to be a couple of days before it comes in. that is fine. allows me to figure out if I have enough jb weld left to finish the job. if not I have to wait till I get paid to pick up another lot of it to finish the job.

[LAGS]

I steal mine off the plumbers and electricians on the job.
A plumbing supply would have had it, but then maybe you dont have a plumbing supply house near by either.
I live in the edge of Phoenix and drive right thru it every day , so everything is close for me.
So sometimes I think everyone else lives in a Big City too. NOT.

[corey012778]

think there is plumbing supply house. but they may charge me more then I would got it for. some of the places around will bump the prices up if your not a contractor. any way. the tape came in and I have the barrel setting for 24 hours again. had enough jb left I was able to redo pillar.

used electrical tape on the stock. simply missed placed my masking tape.
~

[Tackleberry41]

Have had good luck using marine-tex. Higher strength than JB weld, easy enough to get. Only real bedding I have done is mosins. Had an ATI stock, did that one, but its such a flimsy ***. Finally got a proper stock for it from boyds, pillar bedded with marine-tex, came out pretty good.