Mauser M98 project (help)

[Korporal]

Hello. My name is Glenn and i'm from Norway :-)

I have a Mauser M98 that I am planning to build into a short range wildhog rifle.
I have some questions about some details on the gun.
The rifle was rebarreled by the Norwegian military to 3006 many years ago.
How do I remove the "sleeve" witch the rear sight is mounted on? Is it crimped or soldered to the barrel?

This is my plan:

Boyd Classic or Thomb hole Stock.
Ken Farrell Rail.
Zeiss Copmact Piont.
Reusing the barrel.

Best regards
Glenn

[aspangler]

Hi Glen.
The M98 will make you a fine rifle for the wildhogs. As to your question on the rear sight, If it is the original military sight there is a small screw in the front of the sight base that has to be removed. Then the sight can be heated with something like a propane torch to melt the soft solder that is holding it to the barrel. Tap the sight with something to get it to slide down the barrel the you can take it off.
If it is not the military sight then all bets are off.
Good lick and lets us know how it works out. BTW Plenty of pictures or it didn't happen! LOL

[castalott]

Hi Glenn...The only ones I took apart were both screwed and soldered. If you want to leave the base, you can remove just the sight and spring by pushing down and sliding.

Mausers and leverguns are addictive.... It's the tactile motion of working the action. What's the barrel look like? Who made the action? ( You don't need to answer if you don't want to.)

Good Luck

Dale

[UBER7MM]

Korporal,

Those sleeved rear sight mounts are not meant to come off the barrel, especially during battle. I removed one once. They're soldered on the barrel quite well. I did finally get it off. I ended up cutting and bending the sleeve to pieces in the process, however. With a torch and enough heat to soften the solder is in order. The remaining solder needs to cleaned off of the barrel in order to achieve a nice appearance. It was a lot of work. If I had to do it over again, I'd leave it the sleeve on the barrel. If you do remove the rear site sleeve, you will have an extra step in your military barrel. That will be a little more work to inlet the stock's barrel channel.

If you purchase a Boyd's stock you'll want to specify the barrel channel for a military barrel. Read up on the Boyd's options and return policy before purchasing so that you know what your getting.

Your 30'06 Mauser will make a wonderful boar rifle.

Din engelsk er bedre enn min Norsk.

Enjoy,

[Yodogsandman]

"Boyd Classic or Thomb hole Stock"

I would expect that the Boyd Classic is much faster handling than the thumb hole stock for wild hogs.

I'd like to suggest an aftermarket trigger with side safety, also. (see Boyds for that, too)

[castalott]

I guess I'm old fashioned....I prefer the Mauser 2 stage trigger to all others. It's safe until you pull the 1st stage....stop at the second & you're good to go..... To each his own though....

I agree about the classic stock though....much faster to get on target for me....

Dale

[LAGS]

I must have taken off 20 Mauser Rear sight bases in just the last 5 years, I have the collection of them to prove it.
It really isn't that Hard.
I reinstalled many of sight base back on the same barrel or another barrel replacement.
As for the trigger.
I like Both the two stage, the Boyds or Timney, or I convert the Stock trigger to a Roller Ball trigger that I convert to be adjustable.
I have several Boyds stocks on my rifles, but also modify the original stocks for fine custom sporters.
The Most popular was the old 98k that had the sling hole thru the stock.
I didn't want that hole in my stock, so I cut out the main part of the buttstock and made it look like a skeleton frame out of wood.
I called it the A** Hole stock, because the first time I took it to the range, a guy saw it sitting in the rack and called his friend over.
He said, " Look some A** Hole cut a hole in his Mauser Stock "
I guess he just liked Mausers in original Dress.
But when I went to sell it, I had 5 guys fighting over it.

[Dutchman]

hello Glenn

You probably know this already but your K98k .30-06 is worth more as it is than what you'll end up with. Those are desirable collectibles here in the U.S.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrdgswqdggkkrskxwfqbfsgtwfb,vi/wbqstrwdsxrtrdgrtdwxrgdbtrwkg/4/28344/9895637/DSCF1736k-vi.jpg
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrdgswqfdgrkgksxwfqbfsgtwfb,vi/wrrtdtwdrxtwrtsrbsdxrwsbqgrbw/4/28344/9895637/DSCF1742-vi.jpg

[waksupi]

I would recommend for a rifle you may need for fast action, forget the thumb hole stock. Leave those for varmint shooters.

[castalott]

Slight thread drift....I love that rifle Dutchman... And Glenn...you can see that the sight base isn't in the way of this scope ....

I hope you post pictures when you are done.....

Dale

[Korporal]

Thank's for all help so far.
Here in norway we are flooded with k98's. A remington 700 is sold new for USD970 a K98 is sold fore about USD150��

Yes the sight mount would have been left on if i was going to use the original stock.

Will the bump on the rear ring, where the slot for the loading clips are, come in conflict with the Ken Farrell rail. Do i have to remove it?
I have trouble picking the correct rail for my rifle. Can someone please explain to me the differecne between K98 mauser and the K98 Mauser Comercial. I have emailed them but i have recieved no answear.

Also the boyd stocks are poorly described, i think.
I think its hard to understand the 1/2" way, .50" is much easyer to measure and translate to metric��

If someone can explain to me how to upload pics i could post some pics.

Glenn

[castalott]

Thank's for all help so far.
Here in norway we are flooded with k98's. A remington 700 is sold new for USD970 a K98 is sold fore about USD150��


Glenn

wow Glenn....I'll take a boatload of them if you will deliver them[smilie=w:

wow ....Mauser in '06.....Heaven on Earth.......

[LAGS]

The K98 commercial Mauser Action is almost Identical Except the commercial doesnt have the Bump or Slot for the stripper clips.
A commercial Mauser base will not fit the Millitary receiver Unless you remove the Bump on the Receiver, Or cut a slot in the base to clear the bump if you decide to leave the action in original form.
That may be your only option if they do not make the base you want in the Millitary Style.
The screw spacing between the Millitary Base and Commercial Base is slightly different in the rear holes if your receiver is already drilled and tapped for a Base.
A friend has a 35 Whelen I built on a 1909 Argentine action that he wanted to keep the stripper guided on.
But the Previous owner had Drilled and Tapped the receiver for the Screw Spacing for a commercial base which is slightly different than the Millitary base screw spacing.
I took a Leupold Commercial Base that matched his screw spacing, and took a dremmel tool and made a relief in the Leupold base to clear the Hump.
It took a while, and I did it buy inserting long 6/48 threadded studs in the receiver holes, then set the base down over the threaded studs onto the top of the receiver.
I coated the top of the receiver with Red Lipstick, and when I put the base on the receiver, the lipstick would transfer to the spots that were hitting the base at the Bump.
Mark it, then grind just a little, then set it on and see where the base was hitting the Bump, then grind a little more till it finally fit like it was made for it.

[LAGS]

1/2" is about 12.7mm
There is 25.40 mm in and inch
So multiply inches by 25.40 to get millimeters.
Your English is fine, I don't even hear any accent.
I have several Boyd's stocks on my Mauser rifles.
The Drop in fit, still needs some fitting, but it isnt too hard to do with simple tools.
And I too agree, that you should go with one of the more Classic stock designs for a hunting rifle.
The Thumb Hole is Cool, but more made for shooting off a Banch.

[Korporal]

Now all parts are ordered. I am machining a barrel wise while I am waiting for the parts. I am keeping the barrel at home to shorten it from 24" to 20", threading it for a silencer and re bluing it while I am sending the action and the bolt to the gunsmith to forge the bolt handle. I hope the delivering time on the parts isn't too long.

[muskeg13]

Where in Norway? Also, what are your plans for sights or a scope?

[Korporal]

Oppland County.
And for sights, I have picked this one:
http://www.xxl.no/jakt/optikk/kikkertsikte/zeiss-victory-compact-point-standard/p/1055920_1_style

[muskeg13]

My wife is Norwegian, from Oslo. She's there now visiting friends and family. I lived, hunted and was a shooting club member there 1997-2001, and visit every year at Christmas. You have a beautiful country with great people who are generally friendly towards shooting sports.

I'm putting the finishing touches on a M98 (1908 Brazil contract) that I rebarreled to .338-06 Ackley Improved. I fitted it with a Boyd's Classic walnut stock, which I thought was a bit too bulky as it came from the factory. I trimmed it down quite a bit to give it a slimmer appearance and better fit for my tastes. I also epoxy bedded the action.

As others have mentioned, depending on how good your military trigger is, you may want to consider an aftermarket trigger like Timney or Bold.

[LAGS]

As luck has it, My friend with the 1909 Argentine that I built for him in 35 Whelen Brought it over today for me to do a scope change on it.
The Modified mount is holding up really well.
He likes the way I set up scopes.
I Zero the scope on V blocks, and then bore sight it, and make adjustments to the Mount, and leave the scope set at Zero.
I am going to bore sight it for him to 100 yards at Zero on the adjuster dials.
I had to pull a shim out of the rear end of the mount to get it to line up at 100 yards.
I dont know if you can see where I had to grind the Commercial mount to clear the Stripper Bridge Bump

[Korporal]

I have now recieved the stock and the base from the US. The bolt handle is beeing forged as we speak and im going to shorten, thread and reblue the barrel next week. Also i hope i can get the base mounted next week or the week after that. I am looking forward to learn how to bed the action and epoxy bed the base. I hope all will be finished the week after next week. I need to order the hard metall drill bit and tap to machine the threads in the action for the rifle base.
I cant fint any information on what kind of threads the screws for the rifle bases are...

Does anybody know?

[muskeg13]

Most are 6-48