Worn out/damaged .223 full length resizing die

[wyrmzr]

Over the last few days, I got access to the local Sheriff's department's shooting range. This is almost a dream come true, because they shoot 5.56/.223 and .40 for their training, and those just happen to be my most needed brass.
However, I'm running into more crimped brass, and as a result, my 4-5 year old Lee decapping/resizing die decided to keep pushing the decapping pin upward. After just so many attempts at tightening it down, I managed to strip the threads on the nut that holds the pin in place.
Naturally, it would figure that I have an RCBS die set for .223, but the decapping/resizing die got lost in the shuffle when I moved a couple of months ago. So, lacking that, I took up my friend's offer to weld the pin in place on the Lee die, and weld the nut in place so the stripped threads wouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately, the welding process must have gotten the pin too hot, as it snapped on the next deprime attempt.
So, right now, I'm looking for a single die, not the die set, to replace the damaged die. So far, though, I'm only seeing neck sizing dies on the usual sites. Since I shoot this brass in 2 different rifles, I would obviously prefer a full length resize.
Has anyone seen just the FLR/decapping die anywhere by itself? I'm assuming it would save me some money over buying a full set again. I'd rather put the cash I have into more bullets, powder, and primers rather than a full die set.

[flyer1]

You can get a Lyman universal decapping die. That is all I use for decapping. Get a couple of extra decapping pins. They are difficult to break but you can break them.

[bhn22]

Where are you looking, and what brand of dies are you looking for? 223 sizing dies are commonly available. If nothing else, a two die set is pretty inexpensive from most outlets too. Then you can retire your two orphan seating dies. Midway for example has at least four different manufacturers sizing dies listed separately for 223. A set of el cheapo LEE dies is only about $20.00. This is just from one online source. Dies are out there. If you just want the LEE sizing dies, contact LEE, they'll sell you one.

[wyrmzr]

After doing a broader web search, I did find the Lee FLR/decapping die by itself on their web site, but I see it's the same price as buying the 2 die set off Midway. It looks like I'll be buying the 2 die set, rather than just the single die.

[mold maker]

FSReloading, and Titan have very good prices on LEE products.

[mdi]

http://www.titanreloading.com/specialty-reloading-dies Under $12.00 for the decapping die...

[Motor]

After doing a broader web search, I did find the Lee FLR/decapping die by itself on their web site, but I see it's the same price as buying the 2 die set off Midway. It looks like I'll be buying the 2 die set, rather than just the single die.

That's probably the best way to go.

I know this is a little late but: The de-capping pin moving in the Lee die is a common problem when de-capping crimped primers. The best "fix" is to remove the rod and scuff up the surface of it with sand paper. Then clean the rod and the nut with a strong cleaner like a carbon removing solvent or action scrubber. Then re-assemble. Do not lube any of the parts before re-assembly. This usually cures the rod moving.

A separate de-capping only die is also a good idea. Before learning the fix I described I used to de-capp my GI 5.56x45 brass with my RCBS 22-250 die. As long as you are careful and make sure the pin enters the flash holes you can de-capp with any die that will not otherwise have any contact with the case you are de-capping.

Motor

[2wheelDuke]

I like to use a universal de-capper on rifle brass then tumble it before it goes in my sizing die. It's a bit more work, but that handles crimped primers better, and the primer pocket can get a little media cleaning action too.

http://www.titanreloading.com/specialty-reloading-dies/lee-universal-decapping-die

You can get the "RGB" .223 die set from them for $18 and change too. It'd be tough to beat that for buying just the sizing die.

[waltherboy4040]

I have taken a pliers to the decapping rod lightly marring the surface so it doesn't slip as much. It will still slip if needed, I do prefer using a universal decapping die first if I have the time.

[gloob]

However, I'm running into more crimped brass, and as a result, my 4-5 year old Lee decapping/resizing die decided to keep pushing the decapping pin upward. After just so many attempts at tightening it down, I managed to strip the threads on the nut that holds the pin in place.
FYI, in the future, you do not need to "retighten" the nut when this happens. When the pin pops up on a crimped round, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to. This keeps the pin from breaking AND alerts you to a crimped pocket.

When resizing range pickups, just keep a hammer and a countersink on the bench. When the stem pops up, tap it with the hammer until the primer pops out. (You can use some sort of soft mallet if you are worried about peening the end of the pin, but I just let it peen!) Then take the sized case and ream the pocket. You do not have to ever put a wrench to the nut.

[triggerhappy243]

I bought a rcbs universal decapper, think it was like 8 bucks. now if you had this happen to an rcbs die, they would send a replacement free of charge.

[anotherred]

I do all my decapping with the lee decapping die. Order a couple of replacement pins at the same time for the just in case moments. Like mentioned above, get ahold of Titan reloading.

[GhostHawk]

I do exactly what Gloob said. Nut is only tight enough to deal with standard non crimped brass. When it pop's up grab the hammer and pop it back down, and chamfer the primer pocket, I use an old RCBS chamfering tool.

[Motor]

So let me get this straight. The pin moves up, as designed, to prevent breakage. Then you hit the the top of the pin to complete the de-capping? How is this supposed to be better? Couldn't you break it just the same when you de-capp using the hammer?

Motor

[gloob]

Yeah, but you know when it's a crimped pocket vs a rock or a Berdan case by the way it feels and how high the pin goes. The collet nut can't tell the difference.

A crimped pocket won't break the pin. Heck, Lee pins are so strong, they can more often than not break a hole through the bottom of a Berdan primed case. But in case there's a rock, it still has to slip at a certain point; foreign objects can put a lateral stress on the pin, leading to breakage with less force. Also, as stated, it's nice to be alerted to a "condition" before powering through it. If it's a crimped pocket, you can go ahead and decrimp it. If it's a Berdan case, you can decide if you want to put a hole in it, or not. :)

[Motor]

Ok. Point taken. I have had Lee dies that the pin moves on doing "regular" de-capping. Apparently this is not too uncommon. The first fix is to disassemble de-grease then re-assemble the rod. If that don't fix it the next is to scuff up the rod so the collet type nut gets a better grip on it.

Even after doing the scuff and high torque treatment I've had mine still move when it had to and not break. In fact I still can't de-capp crimped primers with it because it will move on some.

I guess after 30 years and 30,000+ rounds on the same press you develop a feel for things. That's probably why I don't get stuck cases or break stuff very often. :)

Motor

[EDG]

I just use a plastic hammer and a hand punch to knock out crimped in primers.
It has worked 100% perfect for more than 45 years.

[gloob]

But... then you have to sort your cases, first. :)

If this happens out of the blue, like maybe you have a few new pickups with the rest of your cases, keep the hammer method in mind. It's a heck of a lot faster than unscrewing the rod, repositioning it, and retightening it. Just tap with the hammer, and when the primer pops out, it's back to exactly the right position.

[Motor]

All my "range pick up" gets cleaned first sometimes even separated because some casings will fit inside others and won't get cleaned properly. After cleaning its all separated and stored.

All cases that are berdan primed and have no resale value go into the scrap bucket.

I also separate my brass by head stamp. I do have containers for "mixed head stamps" but if I load them they are inspected first.

Motor

[dudel]

FYI, in the future, you do not need to "retighten" the nut when this happens. When the pin pops up on a crimped round, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to. This keeps the pin from breaking AND alerts you to a crimped pocket.

It's also alerting you to a possible Berdan primed case. Might want to take a look at that brass before you pull out your hammer. If you got two small holes in the bottom of the case, might want to throw that case out rather than try an pound a hole through the primer pocket (or bend the decapper rod).

Ever since Hornady came out with their lightly threaded decapping rod in their die sets, I've wanted to them to put out a universal decapper. With the Hornady rod, the nut only has to be finger tight to remove primers, and still slip when it hits an obstruction. No need to crank down on the nut. I now see Hornady has come out with this, so I'm ordering one to replace my well used Lee decapper. I also like the way Hornady decapping pins are replaceable without having to change out the entire rod. A head on the pin keeps them from pulling out. Nice bit of kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-050085-Decapping-Die/dp/B001KZANEW

[dudel]

All my "range pick up" gets cleaned first sometimes even separated because some casings will fit inside others and won't get cleaned properly. After cleaning its all separated and stored.

All cases that are berdan primed and have no resale value go into the scrap bucket.

I also separate my brass by head stamp. I do have containers for "mixed head stamps" but if I load them they are inspected first.

Motor

Pretty much my drill as well. Range scrap can also be range ****. It's were people use a lot of the VERY cheap ammo with steel case, and Berdan primers. I don't bother pulling cases out of the mud or that have been stomped on. Lots of cases can fit into .45 cases. I deprime, then clean, then sort by headstamp. I also have a misc head stamp container. Even in the misc container, I'll weed out brass that I don't care for (Amerc comes to mind). I'll use misc brass for lost brass matches or if I'm shooting at a place where you can't easily retrieve brass.

When using brass of the same headstamp, you find you can detect loose primer pockets and other problems by feel.

[gwpercle]

Save the wear and tear on your regular dies and use a universal decapping die on those crimped in primered cases. I have one from Lee and it does fine on military 308 cases.
While you are ordering , get one of Lee's universal case flaring/neck expanding dies...that's something I have found very useful.
Gary

[AllanD]

lee used to make a hand punch and base for de-capping crimped military brass.

I have one (somewhere?) butI haven't processed any large lots of military brass since the late 1980s

When going over range brass now I use a hammer to drive the decapping rod down on any the lee universal decapper won't get...

[GabbyM]

You can nearly totally eliminate issue while decapping crimped primers by deburring the flash hole first. Pin breaks are caused either from the pin being caught by a burr then deflected away from the hole or the pin pushing a burr into the hole along with itself. Then there are the Berdan cases. Using a tool with a #1 C-Drill. RCBS or Sinclair make very good ones. I have an old RCBS tool that finally broke off the point then I ground it to a straight bevel. This works well for surplus brass with primers still in.

Lee's universal depriming tool is my favorite die for this work. After decapping. I use a Sinclair carbide primer pocket uniformer. Plus a flash hole uniformer to finish reaming. I'm a big beliver in the utility of a primer pocket uniformer. Especially on military brass. It eliminates high primers and improves uniform ignition. After tumble cleaning the brass. I FL size it without an expander ball installed. Then anneal case necks. When I'm ready to load I run a Lyman M die that's worn a little making it just right for jacketed bullets or an RCBS .224" expander die for loading .225" diameter cast bullets. To reload form my AR-15's I use the excellent RCBS X die. This controls case stretch eliminating the need for trimming after every FL re size. Especially helpful for cases fired in NATO chambers.

[mold maker]

Gabby M
That's how I do it also.
I now have over 6K processed crimped 556/223 brass.
I grind an angle on the LEE univ pin shoulder for easier entry, into case mouths that have been distorted.

[Boolseye]

Alright, guys, here's a twist: The decapping pin on my .223 sizing die keeps getting pulled out of the rod by too-small flash holes. I have to knock it out with a punch, find it on the floor and put it back in the rod...any known fix for this? Same deal,
range pick-up, crimped primers, military brass, I believe.

[triggerhappy243]

Boolseye, is it a lee die or an rcbs die?

[Boolseye]

Lee. Just hammered it in for the third time, seems to be holding.

[waltherboy4040]

Lee. Just hammered it in for the third time, seems to be holding.

Try sanding the decapping rod or using a pliers to lightly mar the surface. They will still slip if you find a berdan case, but seem to hold better for normal activities.

[triggerhappy243]

This is frustrating as all get out. I know lee is a sponsor here. But all I use is RCBS and in the 100,000"s of brass I have processed, I have never had a depriming issue like what I read here.

[Pee Wee]

If take a pix of it and e-mail it to them with an explanation or send it back to Lee They will replace it for free

[Boolseye]

Waltherboy, I think you mean the rod that runs the length of the die.
This is just the pin that is getting pulled out of the rod by small flash holes.
Pee Wee, I just may do that, thx.
-BE

[Motor]

Boolseye. What brand brass has tight flash holes? Why don't you polish down the de-capping pin a little so it's not a tight fit.

Motor

[Boolseye]

I think that will work, Motor. It's just the odd piece of brass, lessee...they're headstamped IK 03 5.56

[EDG]

We sure have a lot of threads because people are too lazy to sort large primer 45 ACP from small primer 45 ACP and berdan brass from boxer brass.

If you cut corners on all parts of the process I hope the ammo you load is only for your own consumption.

[flashhole]

eBay - if there is one available you can generally find it on eBay