I'm no Machinist

[Grasslander]

Can anyone tell me a good place to buy a tap to chase threads on reloading presses?
I need one that is for 7/8"-14 threads, correct?

Thanks,
Grant

[country gent]

If the threads are already there but damged a thread restorer may be better thna a tap. It will Iron out dings and bent pulled threads with out removing metal. a Tap may actually remove some material ( making for a weaker thread due to whats removed ). McMaster Carr, Graingers, MSC, Or any tool supply shop should have them or get one for you. If threads are for standard dies then 7/8 14 is correct if for insert in press 1 1/2 14 is whats needed I think. With the tap or restorer you also want a tap handle. turning either with a wrench from one side only its also almost imposible to keep straight and true to threads. A good cutting oil will make this easier also.

[bangerjim]

If buying a tap, get a starting tap. easier to use.....unless you also have the BIIIIIIG tap handle to fit it!!!!! Costs more than a good tap. I have handles that fit 0-56 thru 1 3/4" taps. You do not find those in Craftsman or HF tap sets.

If your press threads are only dinged up, a steel die (most are harder steel) will clean out the threads just fine. Use cutting oil...not 3 in 1 or WD40!

banger

[Grasslander]

I have a Lee QuickTrim die in 250 Savage that I will never use. Would this work like a tap? I mean, is this steel hard enough?
Like I said, I'm no machinist...lol

This is on a Hollywood Senior Turret Press

[Rkm]

this space left blank

[Grasslander]

My Hollywood Senior Turret has 4 of the 7/8" holes and 4 of the 1 1/2" holes.

I want to clean up the 7/8" holes, as the threads are a little rusty.

[bangerjim]

I know nothing about a Holyday (!) press but if it is Al (corroded mabe?) you are good. If CI, it will be more difficult. If steel, you may need a real tap.

[Grasslander]

After looking at it a little better, I think just using the Lee die and some oil, will clean it up nicely.

Thank you for the help! I never thought of using a die as a tap. ( of sorts )

G.

[Nueces]

I think you could improve your clean out operation by cutting a tooth or two in the leading threads of your die. Just notch a thread crest, trying to leave the cutting edge radial. Saw blade, file, Dremel disc, whatever. Run this in a turn and remove to clean out the crud that will accumulate in the notch. Won't hurt the function of your die.

[Grasslander]

I think you could improve your clean out operation by cutting a tooth or two in the leading threads of your die. Just notch a thread crest, trying to leave the cutting edge radial. Saw blade, file, Dremel disc, whatever. Run this in a turn and remove to clean out the crud that will accumulate in the notch. Won't hurt the function of your die.

Thanks. I will definately give that a try. The rust in the threads isn't horrible, but I understand what you're saying.

[lightman]

A tap that size is fairly expensive. I borrowed one from the local John Deere dealership. If you have any equipment places near you, most of those Guys are pretty friendly. You might take your press with you so that you won't be asking to leave the property with an expensive tool.

[Grasslander]

Actually, my wife works at the local John Deere dealership.:smile: I will have her ask the guys if they have a tap.

Does anyone know for sure if the large hole threads on a Hollywood are 1 1/2"-12 ?

I need to find bushings (4) to reduce the big holes to the standard die size. I don't see myself loading for a .50 BMG...

[doc1876]

Have her borrow a thread guage to be sure.

[retread]

If the threads are already there but damged a thread restorer may be better thna a tap. It will Iron out dings and bent pulled threads with out removing metal. a Tap may actually remove some material ( making for a weaker thread due to whats removed ). McMaster Carr, Graingers, MSC, Or any tool supply shop should have them or get one for you. If threads are for standard dies then 7/8 14 is correct if for insert in press 1 1/2 14 is whats needed I think. With the tap or restorer you also want a tap handle. turning either with a wrench from one side only its also almost imposible to keep straight and true to threads. A good cutting oil will make this easier also.

If you can find a mechanic friend that has a 1/2" drive T handle and an eight point socket to fit the tap that will solve the tap handle problem.

[Teddy (punchie)]

handle ?? use a Crescent wrench. Many times on farm there's no way to get the tap handle into the small place and a wrench works Okay.

[Grasslander]

I ran the Lee die into all 4 of the 7/8 holes (by hand ) and it went completely through all, except for one.

I used a flashlight for a good look and for some reason the last 2 or 3 threads are boogered up some.

I really thought I got lucky till this one hole...

[Teddy (punchie)]

See if you can get a hard bolt in the seating screw (bolt) hole and use an impact gun and allot of oil and run the die back and forth.


I ran the Lee die into all 4 of the 7/8 holes (by hand ) and it went completely through all, except for one.

I used a flashlight for a good look and for some reason the last 2 or 3 threads are boogered up some.

I really thought I got lucky till this one hole...

[bstone5]

The female threads can be cleaned up with a little lapping compound thinned with a little oil.
Put the lapping compound on the die male threads and work back and forth thru the threads that are damaged.

[Mytmousemalibu]

Personal experience, I also don't like using a tap to repair a damaged thread if at all possible, thats kinda the last resort for me. If I don't have a thread chaser on hand a modified fastener (or die in this case) with a couple slots cut perpendicular to the threads, as mentioned above, works pretty well. The caveat is, I like to cut the slot off center and in effect creates an advantageous draft angle to chase the threads and better clean them up. To better explain, if you look straight on at the end of the bolt or die, like looking into where the brass goes in it, instead of making a cut exactly at say 12 o'clock, 3, 6, or nine in a perfect straight across line, stagger the cut to the right of 12 o'clock (as looking at it from the threaded end)but keeping the cut perfectly vertical. And trailing the direction you thread it in.

For example: the cuts would look offset the same way as a Hi-Torq aircraft fastener is.

[smokeywolf]

I would think one of smaller wire brushes and some Kroil should clean out any light rust or oxidation.

[LUBEDUDE]

Actually, my wife works at the local John Deere dealership.:smile: I will have her ask the guys if they have a tap.

Does anyone know for sure if the large hole threads on a Hollywood are 1 1/2"-12 ?

I need to find bushings (4) to reduce the big holes to the standard die size. I don't see myself loading for a .50 BMG...

You are correct, the large holes are indeed 1.5 x 12

CH4D has your Bushings.

[Grasslander]

I found a tap and die set on Midway for $60.00, that are made for reloading die and turret hole touchup/repair.

If I bought them, maybe I could resell them here. Then when the buyer was done he could resell them, and on and on....

[bangerjim]

I found a tap and die set on Midway for $60.00, that are made for reloading die and turret hole touchup/repair.

If I bought them, maybe I could resell them here. Then when the buyer was done he could resell them, and on and on....

That might work, but by the time you add in all the shipping and reshipping and reshipping.....the stuff is paid for!

Keep it.......you can never have enough sizes of taps and dies! I sure can't. What I cannot buy, I make. And I have made a lot of them for odd sized/antique stuff. How about a 5/8-34 tap!?!?!? That is what the threads were on this 150 year old surveyor's transit I was repairing.

bangerjim

[smokeywolf]

5/8-34, that sounds even finer than National Special.

[Wayne Smith]

I need to find bushings (4) to reduce the big holes to the standard die size. I don't see myself loading for a .50 BMG...

Hollywood made shotgun reloading dies for those big holes as well. I think Herter's may have had some too.

[bangerjim]

5/8-34, that sounds even finer than National Special.


Yes......no standard I could fine in Machinery's Handbook! So I made one. Did not take any time at all with a milling machine and a quick-change metal lathe. Having the right tools really helps.

banger

[EDG]

If you only want to remove some rust twist a 12 gauge bore brush through the hole. If it is too loose put a cleaning patch on one side of the brush to offset it.

Turn it through and the patch or cloth will pick up the loosened crud.

[Grasslander]

If you only want to remove some rust twist a 12 gauge bore brush through the hole. If it is too loose put a cleaning patch on one side of the brush to offset it.

Turn it through and the patch or cloth will pick up the loosened crud.

I've had it soaking with some PB Blaster for a few days. I think your idea will work well. Thanks

[Motor]

They make thread files but I can't say I've ever seen one for internal threads.

If are looking for something to clean them up with and have a reloading die that is a spare you may be able to make a thread cleaner out of it using a dremel tool and one of there cut off wheels. It probably wouldn't be easy but the idea is to cut 2 perpendicular grooves 180 degrees apart.

Soak the id good with penetrating oil then screw the die in paying close attention to how much force it's taking of course. The leading edges of the thread that you cut will push the loose materials and they will collect in the grooves. You work it and out cleaning out the grooves until it is good.

BTW: Yes have a thread cutting lathe is nice. A CNC can cut virtually and pitch. Lol

Motor

[smokeywolf]

Yes......no standard I could fine in Machinery's Handbook! So I made one. Did not take any time at all with a milling machine and a quick-change metal lathe. Having the right tools really helps.

banger

Having the right tool(s) for the job always puts a big ****eatin' grin on my face.

[winelover]

Does anyone know for sure if the large hole threads on a Hollywood are 1 1/2"-12 ?

I need to find bushings (4) to reduce the big holes to the standard die size. I don't see myself loading for a .50 BMG...

The large holes are indeed 1 1/2" X 12 you can purchase "press top bushings" from C-H.

http://www.ch4d.com/products/equipment/presses/ptb

You need:

PTB06

1-1/2 -12 x 7/8-14









These are not OEM parts.....you can find originals on E-bay but they go for at least twice as much.

[Teddy (punchie)]

I've had it soaking with some PB Blaster for a few days. I think your idea will work well. Thanks

Make sure you get all of the PB Blaster off. It will destroy by making more rust. I have all but stopped using it. It has no oil or anti oxygenation (sp) , breaks up rust and makes more in short order.

[alamogunr]

A while back I needed a 7/8-14 bolt(I forget what for). The Fastenal dealer only had a couple and they were Grade 9. I had never heard of Grade 9 until then. If you can find one, filing a notch as mentioned earlier should give you a pretty good clean up tool. I suspect that Grade 9 is tougher than cast iron.

BTW they gave me a good discount. I suspect that it was not a fast mover.

[wrench man]

7/8-14 taps are every day stuff, the last issue I had finding a tap was for 3/4-11, they DO NOT exist?, leave it up to GM to use a STUPID! thread pitch??, we ended up getting an 11TPI cutter and tuning out a tool on the lathe!, hopefully now that I have the proper tool for '60's GM upper control arm shafts I won't ever have to do another one!??

[3006guns]

7/8 x 14 is a standard bolt size. Go to the store and get an ordinary 7/8 x 14 grade 5 bolt and file some slots in it, mimicking a tap.....copy a smaller tap if you have one. Run it into the threads with oil. If it binds, back it out and check your cutting edges and if they're dull re file them an go at it again.

This technique works. In fact, I have to tap a 3/4" n.p.t. (national pipe thread) hole in brass and will probably just use and ordinary pipe nipple.

[Grasslander]

One of the members here, has generously offered the loan of a tap.

I hope this thread has helped someone else in this situation. I sure learned a thing or two.

Thank you for all the ideas and suggestions. I really appreciate it.

Grant

[gloob]

If it is just rust and not bent threads, I would use naval jelly. Followed with a little buffing compound and oil.

The phosphoric acid in the naval jelly will completely dissolve the rust in a day or two. Just spritz with water when it dries out.

If you break the tap, it will be a major setback.

If you happen to have any parkerizing solution, that'll work, too, if you pack the threads with fine sawdust. Diet coke will also do it.

[Clark]

I have a 7/8-14 tap and die, and many presses, but i have never had to chase threads in a press.
One cheap thing that can be done is to find a die that will get started and put valve grind compound on it, and work it.
I had a Mauser shroud that would not fit in a bolt body, and valve grind compound fixed it.
The Mauser has buttressing threads, but it should still work in a press with 60 degree V threads.

[azrednek]

I have a 7/8-14 tap and die, and many presses, but i have never had to chase threads in a press.

Something tells me you don't have a Lee press with the removable turrets!! I've had to chase the threads on probably 50% of them.

[azrednek]

now that I have the proper tool for '60's GM upper control arm shafts I won't ever have to do another one!??

That statement brings back a nightmare of a memory!! I learned the hard way to use a torque wrench. I had them way to tight using a long 3/4" drive breaker bar. I did it on a 67 GMC 1/2 ton pick-up, don't know if they were any different on autos. I had to go to a junkyard and buy the entire upper assembly for the driver's side.