Advice Needed for Reloading .32 ACP

[Javelin Dan]

Hello to all. I signed on here last spring reporting on my desire to learn to hand load for .32 ACP, and later for .32 S&W Long. Life got in the way a little, and for most of the summer I've been getting ready to get ready, but I think I'm finally on track to load some boolits. Before I get to my question, I'll share a little of my newbie-ness with you.


I slowly collected all my equipment and supplies and I got to the point where I where I was comfortable practice measuring my Bullseye powder. I scored some clean, used brass of mixed head stamps from Amazon, only to find out afterward that this isn't the best idea. Oh well, I'm not throwing it out and at least I took the time to separate it all according to brand (a BIG P.I.A.) so I can watch for inconsistencies. I now understand that the European brass tends to be thicker than the US brass – maybe because of the hotter loads? I'll watch for that since I have both.


I adjusted my dies to where I was happy with them and decided I would press some duds (no powder or primer) just to see if they would cycle OK. Though a little balky, they pretty much did through my Dad's WWII Deutsche Werke Ortgies (7.6 mm), but on the second or third try, I promptly jammed my JA-32 with a round lodged in the middle of the breech which I couldn't budge. Not knowing enough about how to dislodge it, I took it to a gun smith who pried the round loose in about 20 seconds. His theory was that without a primer cap installed, the firing pin inserted itself into the bottom of the shell and effectively clamped the round in place which wouldn't have happened with a primer installed. He verified that it would cycle a Remington white box round and sent me on my way and bid me to be fruitful and multiply bullets. Live and learn.



The projectiles I've chosen to use are “Hunter's Supply” cast, 76 gr. round nose, flat point bullets that are .313” in dia. This bullet has two grooves which I believe you folks call a “cannulare” and a lube ring. With a lot of discrepancy between various research sources and no help at all from tech help at “Hunter's Supply” (“due to liability issues we defer to SAMMI specs...blah, blah”) I've decided to follow the path of Ed Harris and press my rounds to an OAL of about .970”. Right now, I've got my Lee's single stage press and sizing die adjusted so that it puts a faint but visible roll crimp on the edge of the shell right into the first groove of the bullet.


So here's the question: Do I need to invest in a factory crimp die to properly taper-crimp the entire round and insure proper feeding in my semi autos? As of now, I have no plans to load FMJ rounds. I looked at the factory rounds I have in possession (Remington white box, and CCI Blazer) and there are differences. The Blazers look like they may have a slight taper crimp as the shell fits very snugly at the bullet. The “white box” rounds look like there is little or no crimp as there is a noticeable “lip” where the shell meets the bullet. The Blazers measure .966” OAL, and the white box measures .907” (seems too short!) so, no consistency there. I don't mind trial and error, but would like to avoid another trip to the gun smith if possible. Any and all advice welcome.

[bstone5]

In the last few years I have loaded a lot of 32 ACP.

Use a cast bullet made on a Master Caster.

The bullets are powder coated with a cola can gas check.

It was difficult to use a powder measure for a vey small volume of powder, made a dipper out of a 22 LR empty case by filing down until the correct weight was achieved.

Use regular Lee dies with a light crimp the rounds feed fine in the auto pistol.

It is easy to put too much powder in the small case, the dipper worked for the small amount of powder.

Be careful in measuring the powder.

[Javelin Dan]

Absolutely! I plan to weigh each charge on a digital scale for the forseeable future.

[beeser]

I'm not an expert in loading for .32 ACP but I've found it more difficult than loading 9mm, .38 Special and .45 ACP. Chambers for .32 ACP vary. What gun are you using? What bullet do you intend to use?

[jrap]

The easiest way to find out if you need to invest in the die is to load some up with your current set up and go to the range. Any chance we could get some pics of that pistol? :) Happy shooting

[Mk42gunner]

Call me old fashioned, but I don't own a Lee factory crimp die in a handgun caliber. There have been some where around 937 gazillion rounds loaded without them, so I continue to not use them.

As long as your rounds chamber freely, and the boolit doesn't set back during feeding, I really see no need for them.

Robert

[Outpost75]

Different cases vary with respect to their internal taper. If bullet seating depth exceeds that of hardball, the base may impinge against the sidewall of the case where it starts to thicken, causing a bulge. The Lee factory crimp die will remove the bulge by sizing the bullet base by compression within the case, but it is best to choose a bullet design suited for the .32 ACP and eliminate the bulge in the first place.

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[Outpost75]

RCBS Little Dandy measure, rotor #0 for 2.2 grains of Bullseye, Accurate 77-grain FN at 0.97" OAL, runs like a pony trotting. Same rotor with Accurate 31-087T is "balls up" full charge load, as is rotor #7 for 5.6 grs. of Alliant #2400 in steel frames only, at ctg. OAL 0.97".

[bedbugbilly]

I don't reload 32 ACP - admire those that do! I don't know if my fingers are nimble enough to handle the small boolits and casings. LOL

Looking at my Lyman C.B.H. though - simplified - you're looking at a miniature round that headspace on the case mouth just like a 9mm and others. One thing you might consider having on your bench is a "cartridge gauge". When you cartridge comes off your press - you slide it in the gauge and if the base is flush with the top of the gauge, it's within specs. If it fits in the gauge, it should chamber in your handgun just fine. The gauge can be helpful when setting up your dies to insure the crimp is correct so that the cartridge will chamber correctly. It will be a "trial and error" set-up but putting together a "dud" (no primer/powder) is pretty simple to get your dies set correctly. Like a 9mm or other, you'll be "belling" the casing mouth to get the lead boolit started easily during the seating process. When adjusting your crimp - you are adjusting to remove the belling and to crimp the case mouth to the correct dimension to headspace on. My Lyman C.B.H. shows a case mouth dimension of .336 for the 32 ACP - but that could vary some depending how "tight" the chamber in your pistol barrel is.

Again - I don't load the 32 ACP but the process is the same for a 9mm, etc. I didn't see anyone mention it above - maybe not necessary for the 32 ACP - but I seat and crimp my 9mm in two separate operations. For me, it works better than trying to seat and crimp int he same operation. I use Lee dies - I seat and then use the FCD. Some like them, some don't . . but for me it works well and I have never had a problem with it swaging down my lead boolits. The carbide insert of the FCD will "size" an out of spec. load and is adjustable to be able to put a very light to very heavy crimp on the cartridge.

If you decide to seat and crimp in two operations - but only have the one seating/crimp die - you'll have to load in "batches". Back your seating/crimp die out so no crimp is put on the casing and adjust your seating stem down so that you seat your boolit to the correct depth for the correct cartridge over all length Once you batch is done, back your seating stem out and adjust the crimp/seat die body down in your press to give you the amount of crimp you want.

I load quite a few 38 Colt Short and they require a small amount of powder. As mentioned above, a dipper will work just fine if you have problems with dialing your powder measure down to drop the very minimal charges required for the 32 ACP. As an example - I use 2.0 gr. of Bulls Eye in my 38 Colt Shorts with certain boolit grain weights. My Lee Perfect Powder Measure just doesn't want to drop consistently at that grain weight. You can either take one of the Lee dippers and glue cardboard discs in the bottom until it dips the correct grain weight or make your own dipper. I keep a jar of odd brass around just for making measures. For the small B.E. grain weights, I like to use 22 rimfire casings (fired of course) to make them. I wrap a piece of copper wire around the base above the rim, heat and apply a dab of solder (you could JB
Weld as well) - then I dip and weigh - empty powder out and start filing the casing down until it dips the correct amount. With practice and being consistent on how you dip and strike off the charge each time, you'll soon throw consistent weights.

Good luck - it's all a "learning process" but you'll have fun! Just keep reading, researching and follow the rules of reloading - start at the minimum and work up - you'll do just fine!

[mdi]

Semi-auto rounds that headspace on the case mouth should not be roll crimped. A taper crimp die is used to remove any flare in the case mouth and not to hold the bullet in place. As mentioned above, there have been 17 gazillion semi-auto rounds reloaded before Lee introduced their FCD. Just learn to properly adjust your dies and you'll never need one (BTDT!). The Lee FCD is a seating/crimp die with a carbide sizing ring to iron out mistakes. Look up "The Plunk Test" for checking your rounds. Works every time...

For a new reloader t is much easier to seat and crimp in two operations 'cause case distortion and bullet shaving can result from adjustments being just a bit off.

For good lead bullet shooting you should slug the barrel and measure the slug with micrometers. Your bullet is best sized .001"-.002" larger than groove diameter as a start (some guns/loads like more). Your bullet has a lube groove and a crimp groove, normally jacketed bullets sport a cannalure; a machined groove/knurl around the body for crimping.

[Javelin Dan]

Wow! Thanks to all who responded – much good info here that I'll have to digest slowly much like eating an elephant...one bite at a time.


Regarding the powder charge – I ordered and received a Lee's anniversary edition reloading kit which came with the Lee's “Perfect Powder Measure”. I researched this extensively, watching a number of youtube videos on how to use it. Almost to a man, they all insisted that the “double tap” method was the most accurate. I started out practicing trying to measure out 1.5 gr of Bullseye using this method and verifying it by zeroing out the cup and weighing the remainder on my digital scale. The readings were all over the map! I struggled with this for several hours, and just before desperation set in, something made me decide to try using a single tap. Don't know why, it just came to me. Bingo! Each and every charge I measured this way came within spec. I sure don't know enough about this to tell someone else it will definitely work, and it may be specific to my powder measure only, but if yours is giving you fits, give this method a try and see what happens. As previously mentioned, I WILL be checking each charge by verifying the weight on my digital scale. I certainly get that the charge on these small loads is critical and overcharging is very easy to do.


Thanks again for all the info and encouragement!

[Javelin Dan]

I also have a question for my first responder, bstone5. Have you had any trouble with barrel leading shooting your cast bullets? I ran into a guy at a gun show who sold nothing but bullets he cast himself, and he told me that a magazine or two of cheap FMJ shot through a gun at the end of a day's shooting will go a long way toward "getting the lead out". True?

[Outpost75]

Sorry for the lag time dupe, so editing to post some appropriate .32 ACP "eye candy"

Yeah, one .22 Beretta did sneak in there....
But the James Bond Bunnygun with the scope IS a 20cm length barrel .32 ACP!

The B-15 centers were shot at 25 yards off sandbags.

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[Outpost75]

Wierd, another lag time dupe, so more obligatory eye candy. Sorry!

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[Outpost75]

At the low velocities and pressures associated with the. 32 ACP air cooled COWW works fine. Hard bullets are unnecessary. Most guns work well with bullets sized .311", but some may run tight or large. I collect .32 ACPs and have guns which run the gamut from .307 (CZ) to. 314" (wartime Beretta).

Best is to cast your chamber and measure dummy rounds with bullet seated. I would use as large a bullet as feeds, chambers and allows free clearing and extraction of unfired rounds.

A loaded cartridge diameter .002" less than chamber diameter works well to ensure reliablity and safe case expansion for bullet release.

[Javelin Dan]

jrap - I can only assume you aren't impressed with my JA-32, so am attaching pics of Dad's Ortiges. Taken from a German prisoner, that's all I know. Dad wouldn't talk about the war. It appears in all it's 70 year old goodness...

(Sorry - thought I had uploaded images. Maybe someone can school me on how to upload photos here?)

[kfarm]

Get smaller fingers

[Ballistics in Scotland]

SAAMI specifications for the .32 ACP round give a bullet diameter as .3125 maximum with a tolerance of .006, downwards only. That means they regard a .3065 bullet as acceptable. It is predominantly a European round, and many, perhaps most European pistols are happier with light .308 rifle rounds, such as the Speer plinker.

I have in front of me a fired 7.65mm (aka .32 ACP) Geco case, bought long ago in that condition and therefore from what firearm I don't know. It measures .3365 OD near the mouth and .3085 ID. Bullets of .312 to .314 diameter would give a tight fit in a .339 chamber.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

jrap - I can only assume you aren't impressed with my JA-32, so am attaching pics of Dad's Ortiges. Taken from a German prisoner, that's all I know. Dad wouldn't talk about the war. It appears in all it's 70 year old goodness...

(Sorry - thought I had uploaded images. Maybe someone can school me on how to upload photos here?)

Some people post links which lead directly to picture hosting websites. But on this site the way to go is press the "Go Advanced" button. You will then find a link, some way down from the text box, to "Manage attachments." First make sure the cursor is where you want the picture to be attached. If you want to write below the picture, you have to make a few new lines and then move up a trifle.

Then you see a page allowing you to browse your own computer for the picture. When you have selected it, you must then press another button to upload it onto this site. Then drag and drop it into the box below, and click on another button to insert it in your post.

Nobody ever gave the James Bonds of this world an Ortgies, and it came onto the market at a time when for many people, an automatic pocket pistol was "a browning." But it was an extremely well-made and ergonomically sound pistol, especially considering its surprisingly early date. The proprietor of one of the well-known firearms support firms, I think either Numrich or the Old Western Scrounger, suffered a nasty dose of red face once, when the sear on the hammerless firing-pin broke off, and the pistol fired, fortunately harmlessly, in his pocket. I think it was at a gun show. These things never happen when you are alone.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ortgies_Semi-Automatic_Pistol

[rodsvet]

I used to carry a Colt 1903 in 32ACP. I got it from a woman whose father committed suicide with it. The barrel had been removed by and thrown away so no one could hurt themselves with it. No barrels were available except from an Italian firm back in the 70's. I had one fitted and it was a fun little pistol. I cast for it but it was never very accurate past 15 yards. Later I bought a Lalma miniature 1911 in 32. I've cast and shot it but not much in the past 10 years. I carry a Glock, a Para P12, and a Sig 229, so I kind of lost interest. After reading this, I'm going to get it out of the safe and shoot up the 5-600 reloads that have been sitting in my ammo storage and see if I want to play making an accurate load. Thanks for reminding me of the little 32. Rod

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I cast for it but it was never very accurate past 15 yards.

Oh joy! I used to shoot a friend's, and it is good to hear the inaccuracy wasn't just me. It fired unfailingly, though.

[Outpost75]

These aren't precision or long range guns. If you get one which stays in 2 inches at 50 feet, it is a keeper!

4 inches at 25 yards is considered good.

BIG difference between sloppy military barrel and chamber and a custom barrel properly set up. All it takes is money...
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[Earl Brasse]

Just a head's-up on old mixed brass.

I once had an old green box of Remington-UMC (Kleanbore) that the primer holes were too small & would stick the de-priming die pin.

Easy enough to fix with a primer flash hole uniforming tool, but 1st had to be sorted out of the large can they were mixed into.