8mm Mauser ???

[dh2]

I found 98 Mauser in very good condition. It has not been changed in any way , I have slugged the bore and come out with .318 inch.
I have started wanting to shoot cast boolits out of it I have the mold, new brass, reloading die's and gas checks but the .321 sizing die has been repeatedly backordered, I want to shoot this rifle to see what it will do.
I picked up a box of 8mm Serria game king 150 gr bullets lable shows them to be .323 inch , Serria manual has a warning about this.
What do I do about this is this bullet safe to shoot in this rifle or should I just wait on the sizer die?

[bob208]

what you have is a j bore 8mm. the s bore was the .323. yes wait for the die. no don't shoot the s bore bullets in it.

[LAGS]

What Model of Mauser do you have ?
The Mauser is only the Manufacture, and different models came at one time with different barrels.
The model can also determine what Loads are safe to shoot in your rifle, even if you have the right size bullets to match your Bore.
Like the Model 88 is not as strong as the 98, and 98's did come with .318 bores before WW1
Also, Commercial Custom Mausers could be had with the .318 Bore all the way into the 30's

[dh2]

it has the Spanish stamp on it but I can not find a year stamped on it, it look like a military 98 Mauser completely nothing about it is commercial or has ever been sporterized, does any one have the means to tell any thing from the serial number?

[LAGS]

Pictures would help.
But I have never seen a Spanish with a .318 bore.
What model Spanish do you think it is ?
Are you sure you slugged the barrel correctly and measured the slug correctly ?

[dh2]

my ability to send pic's only goes as far as sending them on e-mail or text message,
cock on close every thing about it looks to be a large ring 98

[LAGS]

A 98 is Cock on Opening the bolt handle.
You raise the bolt handle, and it cams the cocking piece back where it stays until the gun is fired.
The Cock on Close, the cocking Piece is not retracted until the bolt is forced forward on closing.
What is the serial number, and any Letters like OT that might say if it is Spanish.
I have a Spanish 98 action, and it was a 8mm js.324 bore

[Scharfschuetze]

dh2,

What does the Spanish stamp say? Olvido, La Corouna or Modelo and a number on it?

These links may help you identify your "fusil o carabina de España."

http://www.masterton.us/Spanmauhome

http://masterton.us/Spanish_Markings

[WILCO]

http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/8mm-the-worlds-underrated-rifle-cartridge/

http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2013/05/29/1688949_02_1917_spanish_mauser_98_8mm_640.jpg

[jugulater]

possibly a horribly over-bored .308 conversion? a chamber cast is in order. im sure all cock-on-close spanish mausers were made in 7x57 and some were later converted to .308 .

the turks were the only people i know of to produce Cock on close mausers to 8x57.

[WILCO]

http://www.mauserguns.com/forum/

[LAGS]

That Spandau Might be a .318 bore, but by 1917 almost all were built in .323
But Spandau is German not Spanish, and a Gewehr 98 and they stopped installing the .318 barrels in 1904.
But there were some rebuilt from old parts after WW1 using left over .318 barrels and sold out of the country.
I still think the OP did not measure or slug his barrel properly.

[LAGS]

I built a Cock on Closing 8mm out of a Spanish 1916 and gave it to Armoredman

[bedbugbilly]

To illustrate/back up what LAGS is referring to on the 1904 date for stopping the "j bore" - my 1905 Danzig Gew98 has the "s bore" - .323. It is completely original - never altered in any way and I knew the WWI vet who brought it back.

[gew98]

That Spandau Might be a .318 bore, but by 1917 almost all were built in .323
But Spandau is German not Spanish, and a Gewehr 98 and they stopped installing the .318 barrels in 1904.
But there were some rebuilt from old parts after WW1 using left over .318 barrels and sold out of the country.
I still think the OP did not measure or slug his barrel properly.


The germans adopted .323" S patronen in 1903. The only arsenal not to go .323 S patronen in 1903 completely was Amberg as they literally just started to make gew98's in 1903 off of old specs ( It was a bavarian vs prussian thingy ) . So NO gew98 was manufactured with a .321 barrel after 1903 , but .323" ONLY. - the gew98 never had .318 bores only the very early gew88's before they too went to nominally .321 bores ( before the adoption of S patronen .323 bullets in 1903 due to many problem issues of Bullet vs bore diameter ) .
Any .318 bore mauser made in europe will be one of the myriad of gun guild deals utilizing surplus and or reject parts/rifles. The commercial circles preferred the .318 bores and adhered to that considerably longer hence alot of the confusion...not to mention czech rebarreled gew88's for ecquador that were given very tight .318 bores by the czechs for some god awfull reason.

[gew98]

http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/8mm-the-worlds-underrated-rifle-cartridge/

http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2013/05/29/1688949_02_1917_spanish_mauser_98_8mm_640.jpg
The gew98 pictured here was a Spandau made receiver , but Assembled by the main depot at Hannover - note the Large H stamped on receiver. By 1917 Spandau was still making gew98 parts and such and assembling in house few gew98's as they were armpit deep in MG production. Most spandau 17 and so far all 18 dated examples have proven to be assembled at depot level by parts like receivers made by spandau supplied by spandau. I do have a 1917 spandau assembled gew98 that is matching - not a terribly easy find.

[dh2]

I have the crown but below it is an eagle on a flag, I would put up a pic but know how on here, all of the rest of my Mausers large ring and small ring have a date in them, but this one has the serial number on nearly every part and no date??

[Wayne Smith]

Assembly numbers on parts, not serial numbers.

[Scharfschuetze]

DH2,

I note your location is Fort Bragg, NC. Are you stationed there?

Posting a photo is very easy here.

1. Save the photo to a known folder address on your computer. One that you know the full address for. An example would be: C Drive: > Users > Your Name > My Photos > Weapons

2. Reply to this post

3. Use the button "Go Advanced" at the lower right of the window

4. Scroll all the way down in the new window and look for "Attachments"

5. Click on the "Manage Attachments"

6. Click on "Add Files" and then "Choose Files"

7. Navigate to your photo (see Number 1 above)

8. Highlight the photo and then click on "Upload Photo"

9. The photo will now in on your post.

This all assumes that you have a digital camera or a cell phone that that will take digital photos and that you upload them to your computer.

There are other options, but that's how I do it. A photo is worth a thousand words as they say.

[frnkeore]

gew98 post is accurate. The actual, nominal groove diameter is 8.15mm (.32087). I know of no 98's that where barreled for SA with the Czech .316 groove barrels.

8.1mm (.3189) was the nominal civilian groove diameter. After WWI, you could have a "civilian" chambered rifle but, they where usually 8.15 x 46R 98's. Even though the 8.15 is .32087, most of those rifles had grooves between .315 and .318, .316 being very common.

What kind of a extractor does it have? The "claw" or controlled feed or does it have a smaller extractor that will go over the case rim when chambered?

Frank

[gnoahhh]

I'm betting that the OP did indeed measure bore diameter, what he needs to do is measure his groove diameter. A lot of people are still confused regarding those two terms.

[Moonie]

Also note, slugging a sewerpipe barrel will not necessarily give you accurate measurements. Gotta get that barrel spotless before slugging for accurate numbers.

[gew98]

gew98 post is accurate. The actual, nominal groove diameter is 8.15mm (.32087). I know of no 98's that where barreled for SA with the Czech .316 groove barrels.


Frank

Frank ; That's because there were no czech .318 mauser98's...only gew88's....reading comprehension is a must .

[dh2]

ok I am try for a pic here

[Doc1]

No offense to your photography skills, but I can hardly make that out. That *looks* like the Spanish Air Force eagle that was stamped on the Air Force-issued M43 Spanish M98 Mausers. If what I've just written is correct, you have an M43, which is a large ring M98 and will definitely have a nominal .323 groove diameter. Assuming the rifle is in good condition, it will be safe to use with any commercial or .mil 7.92x57 ammunition. Again, don't rely on me for identification: Check Goggle Images for M-43, M43 and Spanish Air Force Mauser and of course, if you are not qualified, have the rifle checked with your gunsmith for head space and condition.

Best regards
Doc

[crashguy]

I found 98 Mauser in very good condition. It has not been changed in any way , I have slugged the bore and come out with .318 inch.
I have started wanting to shoot cast boolits out of it I have the mold, new brass, reloading die's and gas checks but the .321 sizing die has been repeatedly backordered, I want to shoot this rifle to see what it will do.
I picked up a box of 8mm Serria game king 150 gr bullets lable shows them to be .323 inch , Serria manual has a warning about this.
What do I do about this is this bullet safe to shoot in this rifle or should I just wait on the sizer die?
How about the Lee .314 push through die and ream it to .320 or .321 http://www.midwayusa.com/product/480814/lee-bullet-lube-and-size-kit-314-diameter?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[dh2]

Spanish Air Force eagle that was stamped on the Air Force-issued M43 Spanish M98 Mausers
I am starting to get that answer a few times now. I have cleaned and slugged the barrel repeatedly and got .318 to .3185 every time , it does look to be in very good condition . I think it may be a barrel change from some ones rebuild

[LAGS]

If it is a Spanish Air Force, then you may be slugging the barrel correctly, but Not Measuring it correctly.
Are you measuring the Fatest part of the Slug, or the diameter down in the rifling grooves on the slug ?
The Grooves in the barrel are the part that is highest on your slug. That represents the Groove Diameter, that you are looking for.
The Low part on your Slugging Slug is the BORE diameter.
You are looking for your GROOVE Diameter.
Also, just to be safe, How are you slugging the barrel ?
If you have a rough bore, then it will strip off the rifling, or high part of the slugging slug and give you a false reading.

I just did some checking on some of my Mauser 8mm barrels .
The Bore diameter runs from .313 to .316. I checked it with the mandrals that fit my Barrel Crowning tool.
The Groove Diameter runs from .323 to .326
I think you are measuring the Bore Diameter, or the Groove Diameter is being Stripped off is you have a rough bore, or you are starting off with a slug less than say .328

[Moonie]

I have a Spanish M43. It slugs .324 and loves shooting the Lee karabiner above 35gr H4895 at 1,850fps.

[EDG]

The German ammo used before the 1905 conversion used a .318 bullet but the barrel was NOT .318 ever.
The barrels measure .3205 to about .321 for groove diameter.

The long long long throat for the heavy round nosed .318 bullets permitted the short stubby 154 grain spitzers to squeeze down to .321.

There is a long discussion about GEW 88 and Kar 88 barrels on gunboards. You can look in the Mannlicher forum for a sticky.

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?26061-Gew-88-Bore-Sizes-and-Ammunition

[dh2]

I am sluging the barrel by taking a pure lead ball force it through the barrel from muzzle to action with a 5/16 rod and hammer.
measure the top of the rifleing (the bigger measurement) giving me .3185.
other rifle I have done confirm to me my ,method is correct 444 Marlin .432, 45/70 .460, 7mmx57 mm Mauser .286
I am no expert on mausers , and working with the 8mm Mauser is all new to me , before they all was used for the action. I can not under stand why I come out with the .318 barrel. un less it has been changed at some point.

[nekshot]

sounds like a .318. I love mine! I use a rcbs 32 mold for cast and use hornady 32-165 ftx bullets swagged down a wee bit. Mine is a german sporter and is incredibly accurate. I wonder if your neck is for the early 318 8mm or the current 8mm. Mine is a .318 bore chambered with a 8mm .323 bore reamer. Once I figured it out it is no problem.

[LAGS]

You did not say what Diameter Ball you are startimg off with.
If the Ball is just about the same diameter as the groove diameter, thn the ball is still hitting on most of the radius and can start to Roll in the barrel ever so slightly shaping it undersized and give you a False reading.
I start off with a ball that when pounded into the muzzle, will cut a Ring of Lead off, and the slug comes out the other end of the barrel in more of a Cylinder shape.
But for a true reading, I would do a Muzzle Casting at least 1 1/2 " long with Cerosafe or even Epoxy if you Wax the inside of your barrel and use a patch over a 1/4" brass rod for a plug.
The rod and Patch stay 1.5" from the end of the muuzzle when you pour the epoxy plug.
Let it fully cure, and pound the rod out from the Breech end.
Do Not, Just Stuff a Plug of patches in the barrel about 1.5" into the muzzle and fill up the muzzle with epoxy or even Cerosafe.
The Wad will be like a Pillow, and you loose force to pound it back out of the barrel when the slug is hardened.
We call that "Over Ragging"