How to color brass for ID?

[dualsport]

Any of you fellas found a good way to mark/color your brass so you can ID it? I do some notching, or marking with a Sharpie, but would like something better. Thanks.

[historicfirearms]

Cold blue solution turns the brass dark brown/black.

[MrWolf]

To much citric acid will give them a greenish tint. Ask me how I know...

[Eddie17]

Multiple sharpee marks in different colors works for me. Mark each batch of reloads and note the colors in my note book for reference.

[Freischütz]

Here's something I found on the internet in 2003. No idea where I found it. 40492: Different colored brass? 05/06/03-1:03 PM Posted by: Car Knocker There have been enough requests that I decided to post the article here, despite its' length. Don ************************************************** ***** Just passing on what I've come across - from rec.guns no less. I've never tried any of this, but would be interested in hearing how things come out. See attached home chemistry projects. Also see "Bennett's Chemical Formulary" for more at home projects. You can also buy metal marking fluids. Example ITW Fluid Products Group, Glenview, Il 60025. 800 443-9536. Product name is Dykem. www.jmindsupply.com/dykem.htm www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/product/maintainence/product_info/appArea26/ www.metalcoloring.com/ You can also do a search on "metal marking fluids" and such. Luck, Dave The Coloring of Brass by Royce W. Beal written on 17 March 1995 specifically for the readers of the rec.guns newsgroup. questions should be directed to me at SLQZ4@CC.USU.EDU Read this entire essay before attempting any one treatment. If you choose to just "cut and paste" part of this, please make sure you get the safety instructions and warnings after the recipes. Under no circumstances do I consider myself liable for any accidents which occur while using any of these chemicals. Also, I do not consider myself an expert in this field and am still doing research for the FAQ. This will be a temporary article. Because I am still experimenting, I cannot vouch for all of these colors. Concentrations and conditions DO matter. (Concentration is more important than actual volume, so if you want to use less, make sure that you use proportionately less of each ingredient) If you want good results follow the recipes closely. Above all it is important that the brass surfaces be clean. This means an extra hour or so in the tumbler for the cases and then touch them only sparingly. I have tried to collate recipes which will require the acquisition of the more common chemicals. I have also tried to steer clear of the really hazardous arsenic and cyanide salts (which you probably can't get anyway) If you feel that you've been cheated by this, please refer to the references section of this report and find the books for yourself in any well stocked library. It is my understanding that these are all surface coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass. Obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed brass. DO NOT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel) Glass or Plastic containers are the preference. If you are really worried about what this is going to do to your brass, refer again to the reference section below. TIFFANY GREEN: Copper Sulfate.................8 ounces Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces Sodium Chloride................4 ounces Zinc Chloride..................1 ounce Acetic Acid....................2 ounces Water..........................1 gallon VERDE: Copper Nitrate.................16 ounces Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces Acetic Acid....................1 quart Water..........................1 gallon GREEN: Iron ( ferric) Nitrate.........2 ounces ( Fe(III)(NO3)3) Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces Water..........................1 gallon (use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed or the solution may be "painted" on) HARDWARE GREEN: Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........1 ounce (Fe(III)(NO3)3) Sodium Thiosulfate.............6 ounces Water..........................1 gallon (use at 160F) RED: Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........6 ounces (Fe(III)(NO3)3) Sodium hyposulphite............6 ounces Water..........................1 gallon (use at 170F will speed up this reaction) BLUE: Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces Lead Acetate...................4 ounces Water..........................1 gallon (use at boiling temperature) or Lead Acetate...................2 to 4 ounces Sodium Thiosulfate.............8 ounces Acetic Acid....................4 ounces Water..........................1 gallon (use at 180F. This color will change if not lacquered [DO NOT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES] Take your chances with the color change.) BLUE BLACK: Copper Carbonate...............1 pound Ammonium Hydroxide.............1 quart Water..........................3 quarts (Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide have been mixed. There must be excess Copper Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed (made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%# Sodium Hydroxide solution.) BLACK: Ammonium Hydrosulfide...........2.25 ounces Potassium sulfide...............1 ounce Water...........................1 gallon (use at room temperature or COOLER for best results) BROWN: Potassium Chlorate..............5.5 ounces Nickel Sulfate..................2.75 ounces Copper Sulfate..................24 ounces Water...........................1 gallon (use at boiling temperature) SAFETY: 1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals. 2. Keep very far out of the reach of children. 3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and should not be stored with anything flammable. 4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor. Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that you have breathed enough of it to feel uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not underestimate this chemical. 5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective clothing including glasses of some sort. 6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts can actually exceed the boiling point of water. The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous. BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BOILING SOLUTIONS. 7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation purposes but do not change the ingredients in any one recipe. 8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals. CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS: Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces. 1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains 1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL 1 gallon = 3.785 L

[bangerjim]

Good formulas but many of those chemicals are extremely hazardous/controlled substances/hard to find/not shippable to individuals. If you live near a big metro area and have a local chemical supply house (as I do) you can walk in and buy the stuff OTC (most of it anyway!!)

Colored Sharpie's are at WalMart!!!!!!!!!!

banger

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

at my club's range (in a woods), once in a while I pick up brass so black with tarnish...it barely cleans up with Hot citric acid bath.
I started to think about this and noticed the blackist ones are usually in the grass and leaves. Most of the trees are Oak. Oak Leaves are fairly high in Tannic acid.
So, I'm thinking a guy to make up a batch of Oak leave Tea (maybe dried oak leaves in the fall) and stain some brass. I wonder if there is more to it though? If the Dew (wetting the leaves) and the sun drying the leaves and brass and the air (oxygen) have some necessary part of the process of darkening?

[Bad Water Bill]

Way back in the dark ages IIRC we did furnish information as how to color brass.

Since I am a feeble minded OLD reprobate I can not remember when or where it was posted

Perhaps someone with a lot more knowledge and pull like a Moderator & Lyman 45 Devotee could dig DEEP into OLD posts and retrieve that info.[smilie=s:

[zubrato]

I know you mentioned the sharpie thing, but what I like to do is before priming the cases ill cram the sharpie heads into the primer pocket and let it dry. then I can see a slight ring around the primer and my bolt face isnt stained nor are my fingers upon cleaning.

another way, rather expensive :D is to purchase a firearm with a fluted chamber.

i just recognize my brass by the damage my glock inflicts upon my cases, seriously dented case mouths with brass shavings

223 i tend to watch carefully where it lands, put on a brass catcher, or use the colored primer pocket ring

[winelover]

Birchwood Casey's "Brass Black"

Winelover

[GhostHawk]

Fingernail polish, one touch on the primer in bright red color tells me that round is loaded with Red Dot.

[wcp4570]

[QUOTE=Eddie17;3321647]Multiple sharpee marks in different colors works for me. Mark each batch of reloads and note the colors in my note book for reference.[/QUOTE

I do the same when working up a load, mark the primers with different color sharpies and record the loads. Shot over a Chronograph and record results and targets are marked as to which load was used. Once I settle on a load the colors are no longer need. A plus for coloring primers is the brass is not permanently marked.
145259
I always use Red primer marks for my top load for a given group of loads.
wcp

[dragon813gt]

Nail polish. Comes off w/ a long enough tumble. I use a different color for each conversion.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/6BEC15D6-403E-4310-B3DD-A2F836A0C448-36773-000021B8D5BE8C5C_zps8f60c47d.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dragon813gt/media/TimeToMakeAmmo/6BEC15D6-403E-4310-B3DD-A2F836A0C448-36773-000021B8D5BE8C5C_zps8f60c47d.jpg.html)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Way back in the dark ages IIRC we did furnish information as how to color brass.

Since I am a feeble minded OLD reprobate I can not remember when or where it was posted

Perhaps someone with a lot more knowledge and pull like a Moderator & Lyman 45 Devotee could dig DEEP into OLD posts and retrieve that info.[smilie=s:

this one ?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?66487-Coloring-brass-cases

or this one ?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?47661-coloring-brass&highlight=coloring%20brass

[Bad Water Bill]

this one ?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?66487-Coloring-brass-cases

AND WE HAVE A WINNER.

That is Exactly the article I was hoping you could retrieve for all of the folks that are curious about coloring brass.

Only a real craftsman could have found and posted it.

Thank you Jon and Girty wags her tail at you also.[smilie=s:

[acrijos]

You can also use a primer and bullet sealer, http://markroncustomgunproducts.com/cartridge-color-id.php

[deepwater]

+1 WCP4570.

With different color Sharpies on primers. Do not have any problems with staining in chamber.
Easy to see and identify lined up in ammo box.


deepwater

[Shooter6br]

+1 I use Sharpies for the primers .

[wv109323]

Another twist on the Sharpie marker is this. I shot NRA Bullseye pistol with a guy that used a Sharpie and colored the Extractor groove. He used Blue. With the case laying on it's side you could immediately ID his brass before you picked it up.
Before brass catchers the brass for a line of competitors got all mixed up.

[porthos]

soak the bottom 1/3 or so of your brass in a citric acid solution to make it brighter. just don't clean your brass after that.

[OS OK]

You guys are making this awfully complicated for an old country boy…
Why not leave them by a tree and let the Dog mark them for you?

"Simple minds, simple solutions I always say…pearls of wisdom, no doubt! charlie

[blackthorn]

Dog pee = ammonia = REALLY bad for your brass!!!

[marlinman93]

I don't spend any time marking my reformed brass. I do use my dremel to remove the original marking, as a hint to me that's reformed. When I load them the box is marked, and when I finish shooting, they go back in the box. When I get home I clean them separately, and leave the box by the tumbler. Once cleaned they go back in the box until I reload them again.
With all the caliber, load data, etc. on the box, they are always ready to identify for shooting, or reloading. So I saw no reason to mark each case, and it's still working after decades.

[Don Fischer]

I have used finger nail polish. Not only marks the case but seal's the primer, if you think it need's it. But for quite a few years now I just write on the side of the case what it is with a sharpie. Get the fire case's home and in the tumbler and the case is clean and sharpie marking gone. I'd tell you how long in the tumbler but I don't recall ever timing it. I turn it off and check a couple case's and if they are clean, I'm good to go.

[atr]

fingernail polish
sometimes sharpie

[MarkP]

I do the same; We bought several Sharpies on sale when my wife was a teacher. I will also write on the side of the cartridge with a sharpie this will come off after 1-1/2 to 2 hrs in a vibro tumbler with corncob media.

I knew a guy that had a 6-223 and a 223; he mixed up some chemicals to give him a green colored head to distinguish the 6-223's from the 223's. He or his son had accidentally shot some 223's in his 6-223 when they were shooting prairie dogs.



[QUOTE=Eddie17;3321647]Multiple sharpee marks in different colors works for me. Mark each batch of reloads and note the colors in my note book for reference.[/QUOTE

I do the same when working up a load, mark the primers with different color sharpies and record the loads. Shot over a Chronograph and record results and targets are marked as to which load was used. Once I settle on a load the colors are no longer need. A plus for coloring primers is the brass is not permanently marked.
145259
I always use Red primer marks for my top load for a given group of loads.
wcp

[crashguy]

It was said ..Birchwood Casey Brass black.... I clean and use ultra fine grit sandpaper on the lower inch of the case then dip in into the solution ... it takes much better on the roughed up portion....let it dry ... I do two dips... turns it black and allows it to stand up to ( moderate) tumbling in walnut media...

[Bad Water Bill]

Years ago I purchased a Savage 223 bbl and handed it to a loooong time friend and gunsmith to convert to a 222 using my surplus .223 brass.

The late Harry Mc Gowen had it back to me in about 3 days and said his own 222 had OVER 10K down the tube and was still going great.

I went to "Rio Grand Lapidary Supply" and purchased a set of stamps to blot out the 223 and then mark them 222.

I lost count a while back on how many 223 cartridges I have converted to something else and stamped the new size on them.

Stamp them then use a felt marker on the new size for my OLD eyes to see.[smilie=s:

[John Boy]

Any of you fellas found a good way to mark/color your brass so you can ID it?
Read this thread ... http://sassnet.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=245283

[blixen]

+1. On nail polish. To differentiate loads I put a dot on the primer or point of the bullet--then I don't have to worry about removing it. But I guess colored sharpies would work as well.

[Geezer in NH]

Mark the primers with a pen. Keep track of the cases, I use the 50 round plastic $2.00 ones. Keep them in the 50 lot then keep track, sounds hard but keep a log of them. Wow hard but there it is.

For lots of 1000 or more like I do for semis, who cares they disappear in 3 firings anyway unless you are anal collecting them.

Brass is available cheap for that use. Bench rest no but most use fine. Decide what the use is for.

Want the best buy factory as it will take a lot of work to beat the premium ammo IMHO