Pre-Heating HP Noe mold & Cleaning Stuck lead?

[psychbiker]

How do you guys pre-heat a NOE HP mold?

I have a really old dual hot plate, old coil style. I have a small 6" saw blade I set on top then the mold on top of the blade. I the HP NOE mold takes forever to get warm because of the pins. I wrapped in foil last night and that seemed to help a bit. Think I need to spring for the NOE probe and thermometer so I know better.

I have some stuck on lead on 2 noe molds. Whats the best way to remove the pesky lead? I've done a wooden dowel with some success. I have on hand acetone, denatured alcohol, ATF fluid, gun cleaning stuff like CLP and frog lube.

Like to soak the mold in a some stuff for a bit, heat up and remove the lead. I got some whiskers on a mold I think is from some stuck lead.

[bangerjim]

The pins are not keeping the mold from heating. It is your hotplate and the lack of intimate contact with it's heat source. The pins are tiny compared to the mass of the mold blocks and will heat up accordingly.

I heat all my molds (including HP's) on a FLAT hotplate. Perfect contact over the ENTIRE surfact of the bottom of the molds. You might look into a newer model of plate. And get one with the highest watt rating you can find. Mine is 1K watts with electronic heat control.

Put 2 cycle motor oil on the screws, pins, and sprue plate B4 and just watch for the smoke to start. With my IR gun (works on black/dull surfaces ONLY) the mold reads around 450-475F, about where it is during a successful casting session normally. (depends on alloy). A t/c is nice, but seat-of-the-pants methods have worked successfully for many generations!

Stuck lead:
Heat up appropriately and scrape the lead off with a hardwood stick or dowel. If i won't come off, heat it hotter. I have never had lead stick to a properly seasoned mold.

banger

[gtgeorge]

Passing on from someone else who helped me preheat my RG NOE mold. Open the sprue plate and stand it on the end with the handles in the air. I tried putting it in an enclosure and laying flat which did not work. Standing on end works good enough but aI believe a plate with a slot for the pin guides would work best.

[mold maker]

Bottom ~half of a #10 food can with a window large enough to insert the mold, on top of a disc of metal has always worked for me. Brass takes longer to attain a working temp, from either the hot lead or a hot plate. I also place several ingots on top to preheat, but this slows down heating the mold.

[longbow]

Is this a brass or aluminum NOE mould?

Getting lead "stuck" to aluminum is pretty hard. I have never managed it. Any splashes should simply peel or wipe off. if not then bangerjim has given you the next method.

I pre-heat my moulds until the sprue plate lube just starts to smoke. That is actually a bit hot but ensures that the mould is up to temperature. The sprue puddle stays molten for a few seconds for the first few boolits cast then temperature settles down and away I go.

You do not want to overheat for sure so watch and at first signs of smoke that's hot enough. I have never had a problem doing it this way and I do little to no mould prep before casting... including with new moulds.

Longbow

[Yodogsandman]

Bottom ~half of a #10 food can with a window large enough to insert the mold, on top of a disc of metal has always worked for me. Brass takes longer to attain a working temp, from either the hot lead or a hot plate. I also place several ingots on top to preheat, but this slows down heating the mold.

This is what I do, too. I've fitted a piece of wood for a handle on the can bottom. But, I place NOE RG molds with the pins down on the platen of the hot plate and cover up with the can with no problems. When hot lead should come right off with a leather glove or wooden stick.