Any mechanics, Toyota advice needed

[9w1911]

I just want to ask someone some questions about timing belt replacement, water pumps, parts costs and labor.
I am debating doing the work myself, I know I can I have done work like this before, all be it most of the "advanced" stuff I have done has been on Chevys. Toyotas are pretty straight forward. However other shops here charge a premium for the labor but do offer warranties on the work.

If I get the timing off on the Tundra I can bend valves etc. When the timing is off on a Chevy, you know{wont start, hard to start etc}.

parts on Amazon 170.00
estimates at Reno Toyota, Carson City Toyota 950-1100.00

[rancher1913]

get a service manual. read it. look at the photos. do you understand the total process. do you have the proper tools. after all that ask yourself--"self can I do this"-- if the answer is yes go for it, if the answer is no, take it to the shop. sounds like you know the possible problems of screwing it up so you at least have a clue.

[dragonrider]

As mentioned above a service manual is a must. It is not a terribly complicated job but it will take a while to accomplish, an afternoon should do it. Be absolutely certain of your timing marks. I would also replace the water pump while your at it.

[GRUMPA]

The thing I find that really helps me is taking pictures along the way. I have a Tacoma......it's the vacuum lines that I don't want to get put back in the wrong place.

And is it just me or are those so-called do it yourself books lacking the do it yourself part. I've looked at a few of them and when you get into things like the transmission, electrical, etc it gives a somewhat disclaimer basically saying take the thing to a qualified service center...

[Tackleberry41]

It will depend on the engine, some will hit valves, some won't. Not my experience w Toyotas that they will not hit anything. It was generally higher output engines. There is alot of variation in timing belts, some like an old VW Rabbit you can do one in 20 min. Others that belt wraps around everything plus the water pump and can take alot of time. A standard 4 cyl Toyota should be fairly easy to do. Most of the work is all the stuff thats in the way of getting to it.

If your in there, and the water pump is under it or an idler for the belt, you generally replace it. They seldom last long with a new belt, if they even make it out of the shop without starting to leak. Yes I have seen it, put a belt on, customer says no on the pump, next day their back and have to pay all over again. Its inexpensive insurance. You may or may not think about the tensioner while your at it. Just depends on the engine. But again, inexpensive insurance, since you already have it apart.

[funnyjim014]

It most likly is a interference motor. Most new cars are. When I do timing belts at work and not taking any cam gears off all I do is use a paint marker to mark the cam gear valley to the belt tooth. Do this for all cam gears and crank gear. Count teeth on new belt and mark in same spots double check with tape measure and throw it on. Turn engine over by hand several time by spining crank to make sure no piston valve collisions occur.

[monge]

Not hard to do take your time get a manual. I like to check you tube for info .buy oem or a gates kit it comes with all belts gaskets water pump and idler pullies.

[9w1911]

1 Yes Gates kits and Aisin kits are 170-180.00 on sale on Amazon with pump, tension-er and pullies
2 Manual has been purchased as well as the Toyota service manual PDF
3 Youtube videos show both the gears and the head to be marked TDC well from factory. (But is a blob of paint not I nice machined line, it looks as if the motor gets assembled and after is marked for TDC)
4 It is an interference motor, broken belt will bend valves

I have looked up the vin and called the dealer it was serviced at and it appears the original owner opted to not change the timing belt on the 90k mile service! UGH

I was so scared finding TDC on my Chevelle, I sold it, that I did it several times each time I replaced a cam

[popper]

1GR-FE uses timing chains on the valve drive. - No belt but the tensioners wear after a while. What belt are you talking about? What engine model?

[9w1911]

Timing belt
4.7 V8 Toyota

[rockrat]

If you can find a good independent shop to do the work, if you change your mind, I found that they were about half of what Toyota wanted. I also have a 4.7. Only flaw was that the mechanic didn't trim the end of the lower radiator hose about 3/4" and while driving, the serpentine belt hit the hose and wore a hole in it. New hose, trimmed the end to get it away from the serpentine belt and no problems since.

[9w1911]

I have buddies with 250k plus on these engines and no new timing belt! I cant afford to drop in a used engine for 5k so I am doing the belt. Just a shop with a warranty makes me feel good, I would be sick if I ruined my own engine.

[Plate plinker]

I would do it myself too. Just mark everything well and follow the advice of post #6.

I just bought a used 4runner with the 4.0L.
First job I did was change cv axles in the front with all for seals. It was so easy I think Ill be buying more toyotas.

[9w1911]

I am still on the fence, I have no doubt I can do it, but there is so much to take off and put back on.
The jobs are all coming in at 950-1300!! ugh

[popper]

2UZ-FE motor, glad I got the V6. I do have the service manual (toyota) engine pages, you can PM and email & I'll send. Shows all the proper timing marks. Probably worth the $$ for a good shop to do it. Not hard but as you say, lots of stuff to remove.

[9w1911]

Every time I think I want to do I watch the internet how to video and it is going to take a day to take out the radiator haha

[popper]

I did change the water pump on a buick sideways V6. Now I leave that stuff to the pros. Watched the videos of changing front struts without a compressor too, just a floor jack. Not me.

[Tom W.]

I gave up working on cars when under the hood started to look like a black spider web, and shields were everywhere... I let the pros do it now, if something goes wrong I take it back......

[MtGun44]

If you have a proper service manual, timing the belt is easy. However, on several cars
that I have worked on breaking loose the bottom bolt on the crankshaft has been
difficult. On my 2001 Accord I finally wound up buying a 1000 ft-lb rated (not a typo!)
3/4" drive air impact and even then, it took some heat to get the bolt loose! I had
failed previously on that one with a 3/4" T-handle and a 4 ft pipe, was slipping the
clutch in 1st and reverse gear with brakes locked! I bought a special tool to hold
the lower pulley (LARGE hollow allen type external hex) that the socket went
thru and solved the "how to hold it still" problem.

NO magic, but sometimes there are special tools. Given that a dealer charges
$600-700 to do it, the $95 (on sale) Harbor Freight air impact and $25 holder
wrench were a good deal. I have used them on other cars. Newer Hondas
have gone back to chains, never need changing.

So - most cars are Ok, occasionally one is darned hard to get the nut loose.

[shoot-n-lead]

I replaced the cam chains, gears, tensioners and associated parts on a 4.6 Ford...whole front, valve covers...etc had to come off. So, if I can do that...you will have no trouble with the yours. Although, having the air tools made is a lot easier.

Admittedly, I grew up working on our farm equipment....but, that was years ago...and this was a major undertaking for a weekend.

[retread]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZTn1Arjho (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZTn1Arjho)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM1A0DWhRHc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM1A0DWhRHc)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0pkzk395y0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0pkzk395y0)

These are quite informative and take you through the whole process.

[xacex]

The UZ motors are a great design. The pre 97 motors (1uz) are non interference, but after that they are interference motors. I imagine the same hold true for the 2uz which is the steel block motor. The 1uz's are pretty straight forward, and I believe are the same setup as the 2uz. Take out the radiator so you have room to move, and take off all of the accessory serpentine stuff out front. Then it is a matter of taking off the covers, and removing the timing belt, and water pump. It takes time, but if you have done a top end of any vehicle you should be able to tackle this. The belts, and cam sprockets are marked to make it easy to get things lined back up. I plan on putting a 1uz in my old Toyota 4x4. It is easier to do the work with the motor out, but in your case just do it in the truck. The cars are worse because they have no room for working on them. You can find ls400's a dime a dozen with slipped timing belts, but the motors are fine before 97, no bent valves. If it were me I would dive right in.

[ole 5 hole group]

I had an '01 Tundra and still have an '01 Sequoia - same engine. Just color code the vacuum hoses and attachments - I use paint sticks. I have a friend that replaces the belt, water pump and main seal and he does it without removing the radiator and it takes about 4 hours, sometimes a bit longer - I help him remove and replace the hood - the 4 hours does not include removing the hood. Takes me 4 hours to replace the damn starter, not counting the time to remove the hood.


I just took the Sequoia in for a fuel pump change - just shy of $900 for parts and labor. Should have talked to my friend but without a hoist and jacks - just too damn much trouble at my age.


I purchase my parts from: https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/

[9w1911]

I need to do my fuel sending unit at some point too, or drive around with 5gals of gas in the back.

I am still on the fence on the timing belt.

[Mauser48]

Yes do it yourself. It will be done right and a lot cheaper. Look at youtube and read a lot on the internet forums and you should be fine. Good luck!

[9w1911]

Like 840.00 cheaper! thanks!

[44man]

Mine needs done but I can't stand to change the oil filter anymore. Laying on the ground is no fun anymore. Too old and just getting up to get another tool is a load!