ohland
07-16-2015, 12:51 PM
Hunter-Trader-Trapper, vol 36, No. 5, Aug 1918, pgs 49-50
https://books.google.com/books?id=zTLOAAAAMAAJ&pg=RA4-PA50&dq=lead+dipper+mold&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCUQ6AEwADgKahUKEwjnpKDuhuDGAhWIjg0KHRHwAn4#v =onepage&q=lead%20dipper%20mold&f=true
A Little Of My Rifle Dope
By A. B. Haile
Every rifle "crank" owns or has owned at some time in his mad rush after the ideal rifle a "small" collection of arms, which often times are remodeled, changed to his liking, or their original outlines have been obliterated until the makers themselves, if brought face to face with "their product , would hesitate to claim ownership. It would be something new in the rifle game if a "hunting friend" ever purchased a stock arm without a thought of some kind of an improvement he could make on that particular model with his "own" brain.
Lovers of the small-bore rifle give their full measure of attention to the "22s", "25s" and "32s". The rifle which will be a pleasant companion on your fishing trip, a necessity on your big game hunt, a handy accessory on an afternoons jaunt, and which is capable of giving a good account of itself at distances of from twenty-five to one hundred and twenty-five yards, is the arm which is deserving of any amount of thought or experiment we may give to it.
It must possess a number of virtues which will appeal to the rifleman who will use it at the distances mentioned above. It must be an all-round rifle and possess very marked tendencies for neat, close, accurate work. I have chosen a rifle handling the 25-35 cartridge, as this little shell may be had in a variety of loads and lends itself very nicely to reloading. It has a very light recoil, not over three pounds. In reloading the cartridges a greater variety of bullets may be had for this caliber than for any other caliber, at least that has been the writer's experience.
For indoor and short range outdoor work the size illustrated in figure No. 1 with the charge of powder as noted will' be found to be excellent for this class of work. These small balls are really too small to use in small game cartridges, as a good many cripples will escape, and if used for this purpose head-shots only should be taken.
For small game shooting the size as shown in figure No. 2 with the charge of powder as indicated will serve admirably in "downing the cooney" or other similar small game.
144692
For deer, coyotes, and kindred game the size and charge as shown in figure No. 3 will "show" its purpose.
The ball and charge as shown in figure No. 1 is certainly adapted to the camper as it will lend itself to all kinds of fancy shooting, and keeps a person in practice with his favorite arm at all times.
A slight changing of the sights will correct the trajectory of the different charges at a moment's notice. I mark my cartridges as follows: A straight cut on the nose of No. 1, a cross cut on the nose of No. 2, and 1 leave No. 3 plain, with no marks. Even if mixed in your pocket you can readily separate them after they are marked in this manner. The crowning feature of this arrangement of charges is that you can pick your cartridges for your game.
A few words on reloading: When reloading is properly done the shells will be found more satisfactory than factory loads. Further, if they are loaded with the correct combination of lead and tin, and the correct charge of powder, they will not wear the rifling as jacketed bullets do.
The shells after being fired should be cleaned as soon as possible. This is done by removing the primers and then washing the shell in hot water with plenty of soap suds, and then rinsing in two or three changes of hot water without soap. Do not place them in an oven or heat them as this will take the temper out of the shells. Use the last change of water hot enough so that they will dry of their own heat.
Black powder corrodes shells more readily than smokeless powder, and shells used with black powder should be cleaned after each firing. Dupont No. 1, Rifle Smokeless is an ideal rifle powder, and Sharpshooter is a fine dense rifle smokeless powder, but the latter must be used in rather small charges, as it is a rapid burning powder.
Many smokeless powders burn very rapidly and if they are loaded in the same bulk proportion as black powder they will prove dangerous and will burst your gun. Smokeless powders should not be compressed in the shell, but black powder should be compressed but not crushed. Smokeless powders should be weighed.
If the shells are to be used in a single-shot rifle do not crimp them, and if crimped it should be no more than is necessary to hold the bullet in the casing. For repeating rifles the bullet must be crimped in the casing.
Molding bullets takes a little time. Secure a pot and dipper and melt your lead and tin in the correct proportion, which is 15 parts of lead to 1 part of tin (This is my idea of the correct proportion). This is what I use and it has not leaded my gun to date. Keep the lead at an even temperature. When molding the bullets connect the mold to the nozzle of the dipper, and then turn the dipper to a vertical position. Bullets made in this manner will be uniform in weight and will be full. Your mold must be hot enough so that it takes the newly molded bullet two or three seconds to cool or the bullet will be wrinkled and unfit for use.
A good lubricator is made as follows : Melt together 2 parts beeswax, 1 part paraffin and 1 part heavy motor oil. Plain beef tallow is also good but be sure that there is no salt in it as this would rust your rifle barrel. To lubricate the slugs, melt the lubricant, and then dip your slugs into it and place them on a board. The surplus grease can be removed by forcing the bullets through a shell, the head of which has been cut off.
The factory weight of the stock cartridge is 117 grains with soft nose, but this is considerably lighter than those loaded with the full lead bullet. This is accounted for by the fact that accuracy is not as important in the hunting cartridge, i. e., it must not be so "hair-splitting" as that for target-shooting.
The drift is much more noticeable in the factory cartridge and lead bullets well-placed will kill just as well and in most cases better than jacketed bullets, and if made of lead and tin in the right proportion will not wear the rifling out. A ball lighter than 117 grains cannot be depended upon in any kind of foul weather, while the heavier weight gives a little more breach pressure and power but can be depended upon in any kind of weather.
The maximum weight of 140 grains makes an ideal shocking cartridge, and will prove excellent at the 200 yard mark—any kind of weather.
144693
https://books.google.com/books?id=zTLOAAAAMAAJ&pg=RA4-PA50&dq=lead+dipper+mold&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCUQ6AEwADgKahUKEwjnpKDuhuDGAhWIjg0KHRHwAn4#v =onepage&q=lead%20dipper%20mold&f=true
A Little Of My Rifle Dope
By A. B. Haile
Every rifle "crank" owns or has owned at some time in his mad rush after the ideal rifle a "small" collection of arms, which often times are remodeled, changed to his liking, or their original outlines have been obliterated until the makers themselves, if brought face to face with "their product , would hesitate to claim ownership. It would be something new in the rifle game if a "hunting friend" ever purchased a stock arm without a thought of some kind of an improvement he could make on that particular model with his "own" brain.
Lovers of the small-bore rifle give their full measure of attention to the "22s", "25s" and "32s". The rifle which will be a pleasant companion on your fishing trip, a necessity on your big game hunt, a handy accessory on an afternoons jaunt, and which is capable of giving a good account of itself at distances of from twenty-five to one hundred and twenty-five yards, is the arm which is deserving of any amount of thought or experiment we may give to it.
It must possess a number of virtues which will appeal to the rifleman who will use it at the distances mentioned above. It must be an all-round rifle and possess very marked tendencies for neat, close, accurate work. I have chosen a rifle handling the 25-35 cartridge, as this little shell may be had in a variety of loads and lends itself very nicely to reloading. It has a very light recoil, not over three pounds. In reloading the cartridges a greater variety of bullets may be had for this caliber than for any other caliber, at least that has been the writer's experience.
For indoor and short range outdoor work the size illustrated in figure No. 1 with the charge of powder as noted will' be found to be excellent for this class of work. These small balls are really too small to use in small game cartridges, as a good many cripples will escape, and if used for this purpose head-shots only should be taken.
For small game shooting the size as shown in figure No. 2 with the charge of powder as indicated will serve admirably in "downing the cooney" or other similar small game.
144692
For deer, coyotes, and kindred game the size and charge as shown in figure No. 3 will "show" its purpose.
The ball and charge as shown in figure No. 1 is certainly adapted to the camper as it will lend itself to all kinds of fancy shooting, and keeps a person in practice with his favorite arm at all times.
A slight changing of the sights will correct the trajectory of the different charges at a moment's notice. I mark my cartridges as follows: A straight cut on the nose of No. 1, a cross cut on the nose of No. 2, and 1 leave No. 3 plain, with no marks. Even if mixed in your pocket you can readily separate them after they are marked in this manner. The crowning feature of this arrangement of charges is that you can pick your cartridges for your game.
A few words on reloading: When reloading is properly done the shells will be found more satisfactory than factory loads. Further, if they are loaded with the correct combination of lead and tin, and the correct charge of powder, they will not wear the rifling as jacketed bullets do.
The shells after being fired should be cleaned as soon as possible. This is done by removing the primers and then washing the shell in hot water with plenty of soap suds, and then rinsing in two or three changes of hot water without soap. Do not place them in an oven or heat them as this will take the temper out of the shells. Use the last change of water hot enough so that they will dry of their own heat.
Black powder corrodes shells more readily than smokeless powder, and shells used with black powder should be cleaned after each firing. Dupont No. 1, Rifle Smokeless is an ideal rifle powder, and Sharpshooter is a fine dense rifle smokeless powder, but the latter must be used in rather small charges, as it is a rapid burning powder.
Many smokeless powders burn very rapidly and if they are loaded in the same bulk proportion as black powder they will prove dangerous and will burst your gun. Smokeless powders should not be compressed in the shell, but black powder should be compressed but not crushed. Smokeless powders should be weighed.
If the shells are to be used in a single-shot rifle do not crimp them, and if crimped it should be no more than is necessary to hold the bullet in the casing. For repeating rifles the bullet must be crimped in the casing.
Molding bullets takes a little time. Secure a pot and dipper and melt your lead and tin in the correct proportion, which is 15 parts of lead to 1 part of tin (This is my idea of the correct proportion). This is what I use and it has not leaded my gun to date. Keep the lead at an even temperature. When molding the bullets connect the mold to the nozzle of the dipper, and then turn the dipper to a vertical position. Bullets made in this manner will be uniform in weight and will be full. Your mold must be hot enough so that it takes the newly molded bullet two or three seconds to cool or the bullet will be wrinkled and unfit for use.
A good lubricator is made as follows : Melt together 2 parts beeswax, 1 part paraffin and 1 part heavy motor oil. Plain beef tallow is also good but be sure that there is no salt in it as this would rust your rifle barrel. To lubricate the slugs, melt the lubricant, and then dip your slugs into it and place them on a board. The surplus grease can be removed by forcing the bullets through a shell, the head of which has been cut off.
The factory weight of the stock cartridge is 117 grains with soft nose, but this is considerably lighter than those loaded with the full lead bullet. This is accounted for by the fact that accuracy is not as important in the hunting cartridge, i. e., it must not be so "hair-splitting" as that for target-shooting.
The drift is much more noticeable in the factory cartridge and lead bullets well-placed will kill just as well and in most cases better than jacketed bullets, and if made of lead and tin in the right proportion will not wear the rifling out. A ball lighter than 117 grains cannot be depended upon in any kind of foul weather, while the heavier weight gives a little more breach pressure and power but can be depended upon in any kind of weather.
The maximum weight of 140 grains makes an ideal shocking cartridge, and will prove excellent at the 200 yard mark—any kind of weather.
144693