Another PID photo/schmatic with couple questions

[RegisG]

Well, my ebay items finally arrived from china. Wish I would have ordered American but, I is what it is. It has the 40a SSR and someone here I think posted that they had the same but, I could not find it.
Couple questions. I plan on putting led on output to my Lee/20 where shown. Also, I plan on putting fuse & switch on the hot (black) wire coming in from wall outlet.
Does anyone see anything wrong here or are there better way to connect?

144271

Thanks,
Regis

[VHoward]

Your schematic looks wrong. Have you looked at the sticky at the top of this section? It has a pdf schematic for you to follow and shows you what you need.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic

[bhn22]

Wire your indicator light into the pot itself in place of the original temp control (I won't dignify it by calling it a thermostat), the wiring at the pot is really simple. With the LED there, if any problem arises, you'll know where to look first. My PID already has indicator lights for "power output".

[hpdrifter]

study that schematic.

The SSR is a electronic switch. your diagram has no power source going to the SSR to be switched. One lead of the incoming power needs to go to one side of the SSR; to be switched. The other side of the SSR goes to the pot.

[RegisG]

Here is correction(?). VHoward, the connector labeling/numbering is different that the drawing you referenced so I used another link (that I got wrong).

HPDrifter, you are correct and I believe I've fixed this. One thing that I'm not sure of is if it matters on the SSR output side which connector is source and which is output. Probably does not matter but, thought I'd ask.

Here is corrected drawing (ugly as it is)
144290

[VHoward]

That one looks better. The schematic in the thread I linked to is for the Auberins pid, you would just hook to the appropriate pins on your pid instead. Everything else would be the same.

[Mike W1]

I don't see any need for the signal leads to the SSR going through a terminal strip. Run those wires directly from one to the other. If you want an indicator for power on to the pot it goes off the output side of the SSR and other side to neutral. Use a 120V neon for that.

If you're asking questions about hookups it wouldn't hurt to mention which PID you have too. Those plus and minus signs really do have a function. Blowing my own little horn a bit but take a look at Post #27 on this link. It shows where wires go and one way to utilize a terminal strip.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic/page2

[bhn22]

I must ask why it is necessary to use a terminal strip/buss bar on direct connections. It doubles the amount of work involved, and provides no read advantage. I do see using it for the ground wire(s) because there are three of them, but that's the only place I used them on my PID. And, even though somebodys bound to complain about me saying it, I still foolishly recommend a 10 amp fuse between the pot and the PID. Old fashioned alarmist fool that I am.

[htuong95]

Is that a 220v PID? Might not work properly on 110v.

[RegisG]

Is that a 220v PID? Might not work properly on 110v.

The "instruction" sheet says 85vac - 265vac. And the original ebay source sais 110 & 220. But, will be wiring it soon and will know for sure

[RegisG]

bhn22, you are right, of course. Better use of terminal strip for multi-connections. I think that I am going to clean this up taking all the tips from here. Then start a post by PID & SSR model. That way we can have drawings for various models for folks new to this.
Thanks
Regis


I must ask why it is necessary to use a terminal strip/buss bar on direct connections. It doubles the amount of work involved, and provides no read advantage. I do see using it for the ground wire(s) because there are three of them, but that's the only place I used them on my PID. And, even though somebodys bound to complain about me saying it, I still foolishly recommend a 10 amp fuse between the pot and the PID. Old fashioned alarmist fool that I am.

[N4AUD]

The "instruction" sheet says 85vac - 265vac. And the original ebay source sais 110 & 220. But, will be wiring it soon and will know for sure

I've got the same one, it will work with 110 just fine. I would dump the terminal strip too, just use wire nuts, much simpler.

[N4AUD]

You could put the terminal strip on the outside to connect different thermocouples and different lead pots. I just have one pot and one thermocouple so I didn't need a setup like that.