lead wrap for a flint

[Boaz]

I'm sure most here that have flintlocks already know how to make a lead wrap for a flint from round ball but thought it might help someone new to flintlocks .

Take a 490 ball , it's easier to put t in a vice to begin flattening it but you can just hammer it out on a solid surface .

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead006.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead006.jpg.html)

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead007.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead007.jpg.html)

Finish flattening it with a heavy hammer .

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead008.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead008.jpg.html)

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead009.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead009.jpg.html)

A 50 cal ball will make 2 wraps .

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead010.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead010.jpg.html)

Just trim them out with a pair of scissors , they cut very easy . There is always the never ending controversy over lead or leather being the best wrap . Good luck !

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g353/chuckr1952/cheerleadertryoutflintlead011.jpg (http://s1097.photobucket.com/user/chuckr1952/media/cheerleadertryoutflintlead011.jpg.html)

[rancher1913]

leather works too.

[Toymaker]

Like the man said, the never ending controversy. With lead I'll "shape" the sleeve to a flint .... gently. Making sure it's tight against the back, doesn't come too far forward at the top, and wraps the sides. That sleeve will pretty much fit any similarly sized flint then. With leather I'll use a piece of really stiff leather. Wet it good with acetone and shape it to the flint. Then install it and really clamp it down before it dries. Nice snug fit.

Now - - - bevel up or bevel down? Never ending controversy............. :bigsmyl2:

[hp246]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, as I don't shoot a flintlock, but wouldn't the thin lead strips they sell for weighting golf club heads work just as well? They are really cheap.

[fouronesix]

Yes, any fairly soft flat lead material works no matter the source. I tried it long ago and found no advantage over leather. Since lead has little memory, the flint can actually loosen over time from multiple frizzen strikes. After some trial, I quit using it in favor of leather.

[Boaz]

I'm not promoting the lead as a preferred wrap . In my opinion leather or lead work equally as well . I use both not expecting one to be better than the other .

[Boaz]

Bevel up or down , LOL............go for it !

[OverMax]

Heard a long time ago lead wrapped flint is hard on the cock and especially the frizzen. Something to do with dead blow strike's.__ Even so, I wrapped my flint for years with s/lead and never incurred a problem with my T/C. _Tip: In fact it was doubled over lead tooth paste tubes that worked the best for the purpose_A few years back I got lazy when having to change out a Pierce flint and re-wrapped the new flint with leather. Still sparks OK. But I don't think (?) its shower of spark is as strong. Just might have to do a night time experiment of the two. In fact where's the Moderator hiding. He would know if its a problem or not . lol

[varsity07840]

Jim Chambers will not warranty any of his locks if the flint is wrapped in lead. Too much weight on the cock.

Duane

[pietro]

After some trial, I quit using lead in favor of leather.






+1

IMHO, using lead to hold the flint is a P.I.T.A. :takinWiz:




.

[Old Scribe]

+2 on the leather wrap. My experience is that the rock gets loose after several shots and the cock screw has to be re-tightened. A real P.I.T.A. for timed events.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

I have made a few lead wraps from a .490 ball any hard surface , a ball peen hammer and make sure you hit it square on the first wack and it flattens enough that rolling is no longer an issue then draw it out to a workable size

it's one of those things you already have everything you need to make and it takes only a few minutes to do

now as to the lead to leather controversy , whatever works for you lead worked for me

[curator]

Both American and British military issued lead flint-wraps with musket flints during the War of 1812. Using lead is different than leather. A "screw-slot" only top-jaw screw will usually not adequately tighten a lead-wrapped flint but may be fine using a leather wrap. To use a lead wrap the top-jaw screw needs to have a hole drilled horizontally for the use of a spike to turn it. After initially tightening the top-jaw screw, it is important to "dry-fire" the piece 3 or 4 times to get the lead to conform to irregularities in the flint surface then re-tighten the screw. Thereafter the flint will be held tightly and not need re-tightening until it is needing repositioning or replacement.

144998

[Boaz]

Both American and British military issued lead flint-wraps with musket flints during the War of 1812. Using lead is different than leather. A "screw-slot" only top-jaw screw will usually not adequately tighten a lead-wrapped flint but may be fine using a leather wrap. To use a lead wrap the top-jaw screw needs to have a hole drilled horizontally for the use of a spike to turn it. After initially tightening the top-jaw screw, it is important to "dry-fire" the piece 3 or 4 times to get the lead to conform to irregularities in the flint surface then re-tighten the screw. Thereafter the flint will be held tightly and not need re-tightening until it is needing repositioning or replacement.

144998


Good post , after a few strikes retorque the screw , the flint is good to go until it needs knaping .

[Boaz]

I have made a few lead wraps from a .490 ball any hard surface , a ball peen hammer and make sure you hit it square on the first wack and it flattens enough that rolling is no longer an issue then draw it out to a workabl

it's one of those things you already have everything you need to make and it takes only a few minutes to do

now as to the lead to leather controversy , whatever works for you lead worked for me



Another good post , use what is good for you .

[waarp8nt]

Interesting information, never thought about using lead or the reasoning behind a horizontal hole instead of a screw slot on the top jaw screw. I personally never tried using lead, its always been leather to hold my flints in my flintlock. But, I always keep an open mind. Many times I have used soft lead to hold parts tight in my lathe (while preventing marring). I suppose the butt of the rifle could be used to flatten a round ball if back in the woods hunting and problems arise.

[curator]

I use "roofers' flashing" which is nearly perfect thickness. Cut into strips of the right width (for specific lock size) roll it up and keep it in my flint wallets. A pen knife works to cut to length and trim the lead once installed.

[Boaz]

Flashing would be good , I forgot to mention a stick on wheel weight works well if you flatten it more .

[lreed]

It ain't how ''they" did it,but, super glue the rock to the leather after everything is fitted is hard to beat. lreed