Help getting Brown Bair apart for restoration

[Grasslander]

I have ran into a snag on disassembling my press. I can't figure out how to get the large horizontal shaft out of the base.

The smaller rods that drive the linkage are cold roll pinned into blind holes and that is the problem. No way to drive the pin out easily.

I have measured the cold roll pin, and the depth of the blind hole in the shaft, and I think I can drive the pin all the way in and still have room

to remove the small rod, then just use a new pin to reinstall the small rod.

Is this how to do it? I definitely don't want to do this wrong because I am so close to getting the press completely apart so I can repaint it and polish the shafts.

Thanks,
Grant

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[LUBEDUDE]

Deleted

Misunderstood

[Mk42gunner]

I have never seen a blind hole that is deep enough to drive the whole pin into to clear the retained part. I would be very hesitant to recommend trying it, if it doesn't clear by even a few thousandths, you are really stuck.

A pin pulling slide hammer comes to mind, but how to grab the roll pin is the problem since they are usually spring steel and a screw won't bite. Mybe a long thin but tough hook to reach through the center of the roll pin?

Robert

[Kevin Rohrer]

I replied via PM, but from looking at the pics, your press base looks very similar to my Hollywood Senior and Senior Turret. If so, the drive pin that runs thru the horizontal shaft is one piece, and needs to be driven out with a long, thin punch. That drive pin (if it is there) is what is holding in the two smaller shafts. The pin will be gummy after setting there for decades, and you might need to shoot some PB Blaster onto the shaft ends and let it work for a couple days.

The two end pics aren't close enough for me to get a close look.

[Grasslander]

The roll pin is 1" long and the blind hole is about 2-1/4" . That's where my idea of driving the pin on through came from.

There is a roll pin for each of the small rods, and the large horizontal shaft isn't drilled completely through.

Mk42gunner, that is what I was thinking too. Driving the roll pin on through and it not clearing the small shaft would be bad news.

I think those cold roll pins are made of spring steel, and are just about impossible to drill out.

I wish there was a tool with a hook that would grab the back side of the roll pin.

Kevin, I will try and get some better pics as soon as I can.

I guess I will probably just have to shine up the shaft the best I can with it still in the base of the press.

[EDG]

Try packing the roll pin full of very heavy grease. Then use a punch down the middle to see up you can push it out hydraulically like a pilot bearing.

Or lol - dribble in about 1 grain of Unique and insert a cannon fuse to blow it out.

Since it is July the 4th you might find a Lady Finger that will fit.

On a more serious note there are case hardened bugle head sheet metal screws that might get a little bite if screwed into the roll pin.
Once in place they might pull the pin.

[seagiant]

Hi,
From what I can see you will probably have to drill those out.

However to do it correctly you will need an angle plate so you can keep the big shaft 90 degrees to the drill bit.

Probably also you will need a bit that is just a hair smaller than the pin. drill then use an easy out to get whats left of the pin!

I have a BP Mill and a 12x36 lathe for a reason. Sometimes you need such tools messing with this stuff!

Maybe you have a small machine shop near by that would do it for you?

As a side note, roll pins are held by tension. When you drill almost all of it away you are relieving the tension and can usually get out what is left!

[flounderman]

If it isn't broke, why try to fix it?

[Char-Gar]

If I were doing that, I would drill a smaller hole on the other side of the "blind hole", large enough to get a sturdy punch in. I would heat the larger piece and them whack on the punch to drive the piece out. They were probably pressed in with a really big press.

[Pressman]

Since the main shaft is not drilled through like the Hollywood the pin has to be removed the way it went in. On mine the pin is flush on the left end but deeply recessed on the right, the handle end. It will be had to get any tool to access it. They are a tight fit and much harder than the shaft. I would think drilling, maybe with a left hand twist bit may be the way to get them free. Not an easy task and would require very good setup in a drill press or better yet mill. The right had hole requires a long reach to the pin because of the extra shaft length for the handle.

Maybe a slight tap with a punch will break loose the years of rust and corrosion to make pulling or drilling a bit easier.

Grant, are there any good machine shops in town you could consult with? I am sure they encounter this problem more often than not. And likely have the solution.

Ken

[Char-Gar]

An easy way to jump this snake is to coat the parts you don't want painted with heavy grease. Spray paint the press and when it is dry wipe off the grease. The paint on the greased part will come off with the grease.

[Mk42gunner]

An easy way to jump this snake is to coat the parts you don't want painted with heavy grease. Spray paint the press and when it is dry wipe off the grease. The paint on the greased part will come off with the grease.
This sounds like the best idea yet since the shafts don't look rusty.

Robert

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well...the OP is obviously trying to do a top grade refurb on this press and to get all the metal to match in finish,he's going to have to get it all apart.

With a precision mill and an angle plate to hold the base of the loader straight the roll pins can be drilled out.

The right size drill bit will also have to be used ( # wire size) but for a machinist should not be that hard.

That's the way I see it anyway. I had a press like this for about 10 years but never refurbed it, as I was using it all the time!

[Grasslander]

Thanks for the suggestions fellas!

I will try and find a machine shop to get the pin removed.

This is my first restoration, so I am trying to do it completely, and correctly.

The large horizontal shaft isn't in terrible cosmetic shape, but I would really like to shine it up as well as possible.

I have gone this far with it, so I'm not throwing in the towel just yet.

Once again, thank you for the reply's and suggestions.

Grant

[Pressman]

Grant, if you want to be more correct in your restoration the shaft, arms and links were blued. Replacing the paint with the correct wrinkle blue may be a bit of a challenge, and that is an understatement.

Ken

[seagiant]

Hi,
Yep, I SLOW rust blued these parts, and trust me it's a labor of love!

Want to have fun, rebuild a trashed Green Machine!!!

[Grasslander]

Boy am I glad I started with a simple "H" press. Your Green Machine looks great! ( and complex ) lol

Ken, if I can't get the shaft out, I will just go with buffing and shining, instead of blueing.

I would rather do that, than booger up the end of the shaft. I think it will still look OK. ( if not true to an original )

The paint, well that's gonna be a whole new ball game!

I might have to compromise on that as well.

I'm glad this isn't an ultra rare, one of a kind press.

This is turning out to be a little more involved than I anticipated...Ha