Possible Chamber Relief will be need Marlin 1895 SS 45-70

[colt45long]

Hello, per post in lever gun section I am looking at my options to shoot cast from a Marlin 1895 SS 45-70 with a Micro Groove barrel. I slugged the barrel and came up with .459" to .460" this points me to .462" cast boolits. I will have to get a custom mold and custom lubesizer. The potential issue is once I get the cartridge squared away it may not chamber correctly do the the the larger cast boolits which may make the crimping area to big or not fit the throat correctly.

How hard is it to relive the chamber throat area +.002" if needed and/or where needed to handle the .462" boolit ?

Cuirous if anyone has any ideas or ran into this situation on a Marlin 45-70

[RobS]

I would first see if any members have what you are looking for and will send you some sample boolits to try.

[colt45long]

thanks Rob where is a good place to ask on the forum about boolits ?

[RobS]

Here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?49-The-Boolit-Exchange

You can also try the WTB section as well in the Swappin & Sellin section:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Swappin-amp-Sellin

[dubber123]

I load .462" boolits in my 1895 CB, and they plop into the cavernous factory chamber. I wouldn't worry just yet. :)

[country gent]

Put a add on swaping and selling wanted to buy for some 462 dia bullets and test first before attempting to fix a problem that may not exist. Reaming the ghamber isnt a real big deal and is easy enough to do. But the marlins barrel will need to be pulled to do it, as I dont think the reamer and a means to turn it will fit in the reciever. That can be an issue if you dont have the correct tools.

[RG1911]

Interesting. When I slugged the bore of my Marlin 1895, it also measured .4590-.4595. I was able to get some .460 CBs that helped the group size, but decided that .461-.462 would be better. I just didn't get around to buying a mold and dies for my Star.

I did call Marlin, and they emailed a package to return the rifle. They even have FedEx pick up the rifle and they pay for the shipping both ways. I'm getting ready to do that once I get a mailing box.

Richard

[missionary5155]

Greetings
Personally I would lap out my present mold rather than worry about buying a new one.. Rotate the sprue plate to the side. Center a regular hex nut over the mold cavity. Pour a bullet through the nut hole. Let cool and dump. If the mold is aluminum it will lap out fast. Iron molds take about 8x as many lap rotations. Put some fine lap compound on a piece of glass and roll the bullet on the lap compound. I clean out any lap that gets into the grease grooves. Insert bullet into mold. With protected vice jaws insert mold and secure. Rotate lap using the hex head nut. Main issue is do not wobble side to side. I like using a speed wrench with the proper socket on the lap nut. You can use a T handle or a simple ratchet wrench but however do not let the lap get pulled to the side(s) so the cavity remains round.
There are long write ups how to lap molds here. if you have never done so study a little. It is not hard and sure beats the price of a new mold with no waiting. .002 is a very easy lap. I have a 44 WCF iron mold that I lapped from .427 to .434 to use in a fat throated 1892 saddle ring. Patterns went from shotgun size at 50 yards to 3.5 inches. Not gonna win any matches but will take care of running wabbits.
Mike in Peru