Ruger Bisley Trigger Spring Removel ?

[lonewolf5347]

The trigger spring?
can it be removed without taking out the main spring I would like to replace it with a lighter spring from Brownells
brownells sell
30oz
40 oz
here the spring with a little bend on it for lighter trigger pulls
I got it down to 56 oz. not bad compared to 5 1/2 pounds from the factory.
I think by removing the small drift pin in the lower part of the frame(Trigger Spring Pivot Pin,) the spring should come out;I thought I ask.I tried the pin threw the main spring rod and let the hammer down but still can't remove the mainspring rod from the frame.
I bent only the the legs that hook in the frame so I did not remove the complete spring yet
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a380/lonewolf5347/tailendafterfull.jpg

[fourarmed]

Have you tried just unhooking one arm of the spring? The poor man's BH trigger job.

[dubber123]

Removing the grip frame is easy, and getting the mainspring out of the way is easy then. Once you see how simple the Rugers are, you will feel more at ease messing with them.

I did 3 Ruger triggers this weekend, full power mainsprings, and re arched trigger return springs, a .44 Super BH came in at 2# even, same for a .45 BH, the Single Six came in a little lighter at 1.8#.

You need to stone the trigger sear to remove tooling marks, and reduce the hammer notch, but the result is a no creep trigger for free. Takes about 20 minutes after you have done a few.

[fourarmed]

Dubber is right about cutting back the hammer step if you want to reduce trigger movement. However, some top pistol shots like some movement if it is smooth and continuous - sort of a cross between single and double action pulls. Often you can put a very usable trigger on a BH by unhooking one leg of the return spring, then using a screwdriver to pry up (careful here) on the cocked hammer and dry firing a few times. The extra pressure burnishes the contact surfaces, and removes the gritty feel without stoning.

[lonewolf5347]

I have to say I had a hammer spring assembly that gave me a problem to remove but I did remove it and installed the new trigger spring from brownells did improve the break to 45oz
I did notice the crane scratch on the cylinder is more noticeable then my other ruger in 22 cal. mag:
Timing seem to be o.k.cylinder seem to lock up excellent on every turn
any ideas

[Frank V]

Lonewolf, Scoring on the cylinder usually comes from opening the loading gate on the Rugers then when it's closed rotating the cylider into lock up by hand. That drags the locking bolt all across the cylinder. A better way is once you have opened the loading gate & done what you wanted to do, close the loading gate & cock the revolver to full cock & carefully lower the hammer. This will pull the locking bolt out of contact with the cylinder till it's dropped in the normal timing of the revolver. The Rugers I've handled seem to drop the locking bolt very early in the cycle, often halfway between bolt cuts. This is a timing issue. The older Rugers should be treated just as a Colt, close the loading gate, & cock & carefully lower the hammer. Hope this helps. Frank

[willwork4ww]

All new model Rugers drop the cylinder bolt early. It's the way they are designed. The easiest way to fix this is by extending the hand plunger by approximately .030 with a chunk of drill rod, then shortening to your personal preference. Revolver timing is a personal matter based on cocking speed.
Dropping a leg of the trigger spring will decrease pull, though it can sometimes cause trigger return problems. Rearching is an effective solution, though it will still leave u with an unacceptable amount of creep. Decrease engagement angle approximately 15 degrees to achieve proper trigger pull. I use a medium India, followed by a fine India, followed by a fine Arkansas stone to achieve desired pull weight.