When using a hot plate for pre heating molds?

[glenr1]

I have been reading the threads on casting slugs and round balls for shotshells. there are the people that use a hot plate for pre heat and keeping the molds warm. I am curious as how it is done. just place the mold on the heating element and adjust the heat to low?
I have two .69o round ball Lee molds for making shells. I figure that once I get them up to temp and some practice ones done, I should be able to move right along.
I also have a Lee key drive 7/8 and 1 oz molds, I will have two separate drop pans.
Has anybody used the high temp copper anti-seize lube on the threads and pins of the molds?
Are there any tips, other than keeping the proper parts lubed and use a gentle tap with a wood club rather than a GO- rilla wack!:bigsmyl2:

[Outpost75]

Place a piece of ceramic tile over the Calrod coil, so that the entire surface is heated and you don't have the blocks against localized hot spots. Use a 350 deg. F. Tempilstik crayon to mark the mold block and to calibrate your hotplate setting. I use Kano Kroil to protect and lubricate iron molds. It sublimes away when the mold is preheated and does not impair casting.

[RogerDat]

The newer hot plates with the cast iron "disk" surface avoid the hot spot issue. Also someone posted at one time or another about using an old circular saw blade on the burner coil to balance out the heat and avoid hot spots.

[Hogtamer]

I use a propane torch for a minute or so. Not very subtle but gets it done quick. A pour or two and the hot lead does the trick.

[glenr1]

Thanks all, I like the saw blade, or tile idea to speard the heat more evenly. Since I was thinking of how to hold the mold on the old style spiral burner ring. Always nice to have options in hand if something doesn't work out.

[slim1836]

A hotplate helps to keep your mold at a constant temp. when switching back and forth casting different boolits. Keep one on the plate while using another, or switch out when one gets too hot from casting, or when the phone rings, etc...

Slim

[Cerberus62]

When casting the balls you will find there is no need to rest the mold on anything.

Do not use anti-sieze on any part of the mold. Once it's hot just use very small amounts of your regular bullet lube, or a wax candle, and lightly touch the sprue plate screw and the mold pins. Don't get any lube in the mold cavity, you will get badly wrinkled bullets and have to start all over. The cavity needs to be dry and oil free, and I smoke mine or use LBT graphite mold prep in the cavity.

I dip the corner of the mold in the melt for a few seconds to heat up, then open the sprue plate and dip that in as well. The aluminum mold heats quickly but the steel sprue plate takes longer, and a hot sprue plate is your friend. When you are at the right tempo, you will see the sprue harden up and turn dull, at that moment I can just push the sprue plate against my bench or pot and it will cut and open without a whack. I do keep a length of 3/4" dowel as a mold mallet and a gentle tap is all it should take.

You will find the balls cast so easily you will slow down just to keep the mold at the right temp, good thing you got two of them. When the molds get really hot you will get bullets with a frosted finish. Frosted bullets are not a bad thing. Its a sign you are casting at the higher temp range for that alloy and it guarantees good mold fill-out.

I thought you would like that ball. They are so easy to cast and work with, and really do a good job on game like hogs and deer. I used air cooled wheel weights (ACWW) and air cooled remelted shot from a special source and both make good castings without any additions to the alloy.

Keep us updated on how your project works out.

[glenr1]

Thanks again for all your help. I found that the forums do have a lot of answers due to the total knowledge collected here, Since these will be for target only, not huning I can remelt with out a pressingf need to make useable shells, first casting session.

[Cerberus62]

The beauty of the Lee molds, and aluminum molds in general, is that when properly prepped they will drop good bullets almost from the first cast.