First attempt

[5.7 MAN]

Bullet: 600 grain BACO .492 right at .500 patched
paper: staedtler 100% rag vellum
93 grains 1F goex
two gasket wads punched from black gasket material. .060 total
Rifle: C Sharps 50 2.5 1 x 26 twist
Note that the bullets are slip fit and a couple in the pic appear longer, when loaded I made sure they were up against the wad.
range: 200 yards fired from bench.
am I on the right track?
142417

[Don McDowell]

Looks like you're doing well.

[country gent]

I wouldnt make any big changes right off but maybe experiment a little with powder charge up or down a couple grains each way. Also might want to try seating a little farther out. Group looks promising though. nad just ttry fine tuning from there. Another thing is to try 300 yds if possible and see how much the group changes at the longer range.

[sharpsguy]

What are you doing for fouling control?

[5.7 MAN]

I am wiping between shots, one wet patch and then one dry. I am using dish soap, water and vinegar the same thing I clean the rifle with.

I was thinking of increasing the charge 1 grain at time to the max capacity of the case or until my shoulder gives out. This particular load is pretty comfortable to shoot. I could compress the powder little more and add a grease cookie and another wad.

here is what's left of the patches.142461

[country gent]

The recovered patches look good. The baco bullet is probably very close to pure lead so it obtrates easily. You could try a grease cookie but it may unduce some other issues. I believe you are very close and a little tweaking of the powder charge and or compression will get you where you want to be. IS tis load tobe used for hunting target shooting or just plinking?

[5.7 MAN]

I wish I could say it was for long range matches but I will likely just shoot paper and steel with it at 200 & 300 yards at the local range. It would be neat to knock a buffalo down with it as well. I suspect for a hunting load it would be fine but for the fact that bullets won't stay in the cases very well.

I am planning on getting to the range next week with another batch to try out.

ultimately it's really just for fun!

[MT Chambers]

My CSharps 50/90 (Badger) uses .512" boolits.

[5.7 MAN]

My CSharps 50/90 (Badger) uses .512" boolits.
Shooting a .512 grease groove however no luck with the PP to groove diameter.

i have to say thanks to everyone that post in the PP section here, any success is because of the info written by you fellas.
Thanks!

i am hoping to get a KAL mold towards the end of of summer, I leaning towards the Gibbs style.

[country gent]

How do the patched bullets fit in the bore at the muzzle? loose or just nicely snug? I strive for that perfect fit of just light pressure to slide into muzzle with wrapped bullet. but a couple thousandths under dosnt seem to hurt alot either. heres so many areas to experiment tweak that makes this so much fun. LOL

[Sharpsman]

You're weak on powder! Bump it on up to about 114 grs.!!

[5.7 MAN]

How do the patched bullets fit in the bore at the muzzle? loose or just nicely snug? I strive for that perfect fit of just light pressure to slide into muzzle with wrapped bullet. but a couple thousandths under dosnt seem to hurt alot either. heres so many areas to experiment tweak that makes this so much fun. LOL

I Just checked, slides in with just a touch of pressure.

[BrentD]

5.7 man,
Looks like you are headed down the right road. I would try a few different things however.
1. Wipe with plain water. No need for soap and it may cause problems, probably not, but it can't be an issue if it is not there.
2. Your paper seems a little thick - which may be necessary since your bullet is what it is. However, if you ever get a new bullet, I would opt for one a little fatter and then use a slightly thinner paper. Your paper isn't as nicely sliced as I like to see it.
3. The biggest effect is likely to come from loading your bullets much further out of the case - not more than 0.1" in the case (for a target load) will give you better accuracy. Given where you are at right now, that might be all you need. But it will take a bit more powder under your bullet to hold it up there.

If your bullet is too loose try neck sizing your cases either before or after seating the bullet. You will have to remove the depriming stem from your FL die to do this but that's not a big deal. Or, you could try to find a taper crimp die. You need just enough tension so you can pick up the loaded case by the bullet w/o the case falling off. It makes shooting easier (not more accurate however).

You are well on your way, good luck!

[5.7 MAN]

5.7 man,
Looks like you are headed down the right road. I would try a few different things however.
1. Wipe with plain water. No need for soap and it may cause problems, probably not, but it can't be an issue if it is not there.
2. Your paper seems a little thick - which may be necessary since your bullet is what it is. However, if you ever get a new bullet, I would opt for one a little fatter and then use a slightly thinner paper. Your paper isn't as nicely sliced as I like to see it.
3. The biggest effect is likely to come from loading your bullets much further out of the case - not more than 0.1" in the case (for a target load) will give you better accuracy. Given where you are at right now, that might be all you need. But it will take a bit more powder under your bullet to hold it up there.

If your bullet is too loose try neck sizing your cases either before or after seating the bullet. You will have to remove the depriming stem from your FL die to do this but that's not a big deal. Or, you could try to find a taper crimp die. You need just enough tension so you can pick up the loaded case by the bullet w/o the case falling off. It makes shooting easier (not more accurate however).

You are well on your way, good luck!
Those were the biggest patch remnants I found, I am going to increase powder charges first. I suspect to get my bullet out that far it will be over 100 grains of powder. I'll try it out this week!

[Gunlaker]

I don't have much to add that hasn't been said. Are those burn marks or fouling on those patch remnants? Mine come out very close to the color they were before being fired.

If my fouling control isn't working well I can see it on the patch remnants as lines on the edges of the paper at the groove corners.

Chris.

[country gent]

I see wads not sealing on the base also with a dirty spot or fouling burn on the bases wrap or fold over

[BrentD]

CG, if wads were not sealing the bore, he would have burned patches. They would look something like this
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/PPB/PPB_files/image328.jpg

[country gent]

I didnt word that right. Meant if the wad wasnt sealing it would show burns or schorching sorry my bad

[5.7 MAN]

So here is today's results142978

200 Yards

94 grains 1F goex
walters wad .060
cci military primers
same paper, much smaller pieces were left and none of the scorched appearance from before.
Bullet seated as shown in picture, I tried loading them out but they just don't seem to shoot as well. I went all the way to 113 grains of powder, and everything opened up. I will probably stand pat with this one after I try it at 300. It's a pretty easy shooting load as well!

i think the other thing that helped is the fact that I changed to a white 12" square target, it is exatcly as wide as the font blade on c sharps at 200 yards.

Thanks again for the critique and advice.

[Don McDowell]

Looking good.

[country gent]

Looking good there. shoot a few more days / times and see that it does repeat this performance