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View Full Version : first time casting using real equipment.



Greg_R
06-16-2015, 06:15 AM
As I noted in another thread, I have been casting using a camp stove and a frying pan.

Fired up my new equipment, I used the Lee 10 pound bottom pour. I followed some advice I learned from the stickys plus some that was given to me directly in response to my questions. Thanks for the help! I'm sure I will need a lot more! Here is what I did/learned.

I used a baking sheet under the melter to catch the melt should I experience a "lead waterfall". The pot really did not leak, just a drop or two, but it's doubtful I will ever plug in the meter again without one in place. Kind of like my car insurance, I hope to never use it, but it's there if I need it!

I bought some Ester to use as mould lube. Been using permatex. Ester seems too thin compared to what I'm used too but it seemed to do a good job. I probably used too much of it to copensate. I will say that it did not take but a few casts and the sprue plate became very easy to move, almost like the screw became loose, but it was tight??? This was the second time I had used this particular mold.

I made a mess with the bottom pour! Had to learn to use a very light touch. Once I did, it became apparent that the bottom pour is way faster than a ladle!

I fluxed using a small piece of wax. I was prepared for smoke and flame. Got very little smoke, but a lot of flame that lasted for several minutes. Is this normal? Did I use too much wax? I used a piece about 1/4 inch square. It was colored red and, although I didn't realize it at the time, it was scented. It smelled good though, apple and cinnamon! Was this the reason for all the flame?

I will admit, I have never fluxed before. I once read that it was not necessary. Just skimmed off the wheel weight clips and started using it. Man, was my lead dirty, crud kept coming to the top of the melt. Had a hard time getting it out too because of the rod down through the pot. In retrospect, I should have just poured the pot out. There is a small amount of lead/crud in the bottom of my melter. Hope I have not hurt anything. I never noticed this when using a frying pan, I guess because I kept the melt stirred. ???

I cast probably 150 - 200 boolits. Lee 356-95-RF. I only melted about 1/2 the pot capacity or a little less. I had a very high rejection rate, probably close to 40%??? The first few casts to get the mold up to temperature are a given, then a lot of wrinkled boolits, Ester oil in the mold is my guess? The last 100 or so for the most part looked pretty good. I would say the bottom pour is close to twice as fast as the ladle, but my first thoughts are faster, but not as efficient, my reject rate was never that high with the ladle.

mongoose33
06-16-2015, 08:25 AM
Your reject rate will come down. There are some tweaks to improve the yield of good boolits.

You can vary the distance from spout to mold; I like about 1/2".

If your pouring stream is too thin, it'll begin to cool as it exits the spout, and if your mold isn't up to temp, that thin stream will cool faster as it hits the mold.

Wrinkled boolits suggest a contaminated mold, sounds like toward the end it burned off.

I was having trouble w/ a 6-cavity Lee mold in that boolits from cavities toward the handle end would not fill out properly. Someone (wish I could remember who, I'd credit them) suggested the order I filled the cavities was responsible. I started at the end and filled them coming toward the handle; the problem is the handles draw off heat from the mold, making the handle end of the mold cool more than the other end.

Solution was to start filling the mold at the handle end so the mold, on that end, had less time to cool without lead in the cavities.

Finally, as seems to be common, make sure the mold is up to temp. I've read of people who won't even look at the first 10 casts, just fill and dump, all to bring the mold up to temp. Alternatively you can use a mold oven, preheating the mold on a hotplate w/ a cover, similar to this:

142240

rancher1913
06-16-2015, 08:35 AM
I was in your boat two weeks ago, first time casting and did about 300 for a 38 cal. using a six cavity mold, the first 50 went back in the pot because of imperfections, then the mold finally got to temp and the boolits started looking real good until the mold got to hot and started leaving a small tail on the spru end, cooled mold and it went back to making perfect boolits again. just have to learn the temps that your mold likes.

Wayne Smith
06-16-2015, 08:54 AM
Dump your pot, clean it down to metal, and never put dirty alloy in it again. It is that crud that migrates to the spout and causes it to stick open, dumping the contents.

twc1964
06-16-2015, 10:37 AM
+1 on never melting dirty lead in a bottom pour pot. I did it a time or two when i started and had to drain it and scrub the heck out of it. I had all kinds of trash in my boolits before the cleaning.

runfiverun
06-16-2015, 11:36 AM
the 10 LB pot can be picky about the angle the rod is at too, a little off to the side and it just runs.
get it right and it works pretty good.
I drilled a hole through a 435gr 45-70 boolit and slid it in front of the knob on the handle to help pull and keep the rod down.

your learning a new skill set here, and it will take a try or two to get the basic pattern down of what and how much works and what don't.
after that you'll actually start to refine your technique and develop a pattern of success.