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philthephlier
06-07-2015, 11:46 AM
The bottom forward corner of the SA sear of the trigger is riding on the hammer causing a knuckling just before the sear snaps over the hammer and engages the full cock notch. Is the sear too long or is the hammer too long?

leftiye
06-08-2015, 06:24 AM
Prolly doesn't matter. (I don't think I could guess from your info either.) What does matter is that the part you stone to get less interference doesn't ruin the engagement surface. The top edge of the trigger would be my guess as to where to stone.

rmcc
06-08-2015, 07:01 AM
I have a 1933 Official Police and an Officer's Match Target (1927), the only reason I included years is I don't know if there was any significant parts change. That being said, if you MUST file anything, do as LEFTIYE said and do the engagement plane on the trigger (always work on cheapest part first). To save yourself a lot of grief, remove mainspring and strut first. You can "fit and feel" a lot better without the resistance. Good luck

leftiye
06-09-2015, 07:33 AM
You just about should have to disassemble the action, though not all the way to remove the trigger to work on it. If one isn't confident about reassembling the gun, either learn (if you feel good about that) or send the gun out. They can be disassembled in a very short time (starting with the V mainspring). I'd study the trigger, remove a few thousandths, reassemble including everything and give it a try. While there - obviously - see if its ever been cleaned. If it doesn't need cleaning, leave the cylinder stop bolt (not a "bolt" but a lever under the trigger) in the gun, they're a pita to replace.

lightload
06-09-2015, 09:47 PM
This revolver and the Python have the same action.


Jerry Kuhnhausen published two shop manuals on Colt d.a. revolver. You want vol. 1. They are available on line.